FXRich

If you don't mind suggestions, you can try a Kanger subtank Nano. They are almost identical in size to the KPT 2 and 3, and hold about a ml more juice. If you get some 1.2 ohm horizontal coils for them they are very easy to rebuild to whatever resistance you want. I am currently using 2 of them and they perform much like the KPT 3, but with a better air flow adjustment.

You could try to find someone that would trade you a smaller single or dual battery mod. I don't know what your power requirements are, so I can't recommend something to fit what you need. I do use a dual battery 120w mod at home, but when I go somewhere I take a 50w - 75w single battery mod with me because they are smaller and lighter, and fit in my shirt pocket much easier.

I don't use drippers so I can't be much help to you, maybe someone here that knows a lot about drippers will help you. Personally I use 28g SS316 wire for coils, they seem to get hot faster than Kanthal, but that's just my opinion, I'm not a cloud chaser, I usually use coils between 1.0 ohm and 0.5 ohm, and can get pretty good clouds using a sub ohm tank.

As far as making clouds, it has more to do with the PG/VG ratio than what ohm coil you use. The more VG you use the more clouds you will have. I personally use a 30PG 70VG mix but some people prefer a 20PG 80VG mix for cloud making. But you also have to consider wicking, some tanks do not wick well with the higher VG juices, also if you use a dripper the wicking is not a issue.

Don't know if this will catch on, but its different. http://www.vaperoyalty.com/kanger-dripbox-mod-kit/

The ego mega one is a 25mm atomizer, a larger one would be the Kanger subtank plus which is also a 25mm tank but holds 7ml compared to the 4ml ego mega tank. I'm sure there are plenty of tanks out there that are larger, but the only one that I can think of at the moment is the Subtank plus. The subtank is very versatile and coils are very cheap compared to some other tanks. If your coils are burning you may have the temp set too high.

I have had good luck with the Kanger 75w mod, but I don't have any of the other mods you mentioned so I can't compare them. Maybe I should expand my collection with other mods besides Kanger, but I tend to stick to what works for me. The same thing with why I have ridden Harleys for almost 50 years, no desire to try something else.

I have read that dry firing titanium above 700f will cause titanium oxide to form on the coil, also read that titanium will ignite above a certain temp. Don't know if its true about igniting, but not willing to try it either. That's why I'm sticking to SS for temp control builds.

That depends on whether you want TC or not. Most online retailers have both in stock, and pretty much the same price, $50 for the Subox kit, and $60 for the Topbox kit. I have both and prefer the 75w TC mod that comes with the Topbox kit, but prefer the tank that comes with the Subox kit. The top fill tank is OK but if you fill it before you put it on the mod with a new coil, and have a problem its difficult to check the coil. (I use a syringe to get the juice out). They both use the same coils, which is nice. What I do is when I replace the coil is treat it like a bottom fill until after I know its going to work right, and then fill it from the top.

I'm not familiar with that mod, but most mods have a charging port, you can try that, but with those batteries I would not recommend it. Read some of the posts on here and get a couple of good Samsung, or LG batteries.

Sounds like you got used stuff that might have been a return from a unsatisfied customer, or someone used ebay to dump some stuff they didn't want. You can try new batteries but that might not work. All the vape gear I have received has been in sealed packages, and not wet, they might not have let them dry after cleaning them up. Batteries shouldn't take over 4 hours to charge.

That is the reason I don't buy vape gear on ebay, you don't know if it is good or bad until you get it. Sounds like you might have gotten bad batteries. Did the mod and tank come in sealed packaging or were they possibly used?

I machined a lot of parts for racers, mostly late model, and sprint, one of the few customers I have left after I semi retired is Fuel Safe, maybe you heard of them. With friends in the racing business they talked me into letting them tweak the engine in my dodge, I gained HP and MPG.

It should be 304 SS, if that's the case it shouldn't be that hard, speaking as a machinist the 400 series SS can be pretty hard but 304 is fairly soft for a SS, I haven't had 304 work harden on me except when its been welded. Just to be curious what kind of racing did you do?

It is a good mod, when I got it I put 2 new LG HG2 batteries in it and haven't taken them out. I just charge the batteries in the mod, a charge lasts me 2 to 3 days. The single battery mods I have I change the batteries in them and use a separate charger to charge them. I figure the best way to keep the 2 batteries married is to just leave them in the mod. I have 3 Kanger 75w TC mods and 2 Kanger50w mods so its not a issue to wait for the 120w to charge. The NiCr mode does work for Kanthal too, after I used a Kanger Clapton coil in power mode I tried it in NiCr mode, set it at 350f when I finally ran out of juice the cotton didn't burn.

It does take a special setting to run SS in temp mode, but you don't have to run SS in TC it works pretty good in power mode too. The same for NiCr it works in power mode but you can use it in TC too if your mod has a TC NiCr mode. The new Kanger TC mods have modes for Ti, Ni, SS, and NiCr. Technology is moving pretty fast in vaping hardware. Rumor has it that with the new Kanger mods you can run Kanthal in the NiCr mode and get temp control, but you have to use a lower setting. I have tried it and it does work.

I finally got around to trying one of the Clapton coils that come with the Top fill Subtank mini. Below 20w there is very little vapor production, at 30w there is more but not quite enough for me, at 35w its about right for me. Trouble is at 35w the tank gets really hot. I filled another tank with the same juice, but I used a RBA with a 28g .5 SS316L coil, at 12w I got the same vapor production and the tank didn't get hot, warm maybe but not hot. The vapor with the Clapton coil is warmer, but not hot. In the end I would have to say I'm not impressed with the Kanger Clapton coil, and will stick to using the RBA with SS coils.

That's what is nice about using SS coils, they can be used in TC or power mode.

I totally agree with earthling on about everything, the buttons on the Kanger 75w TC can be locked. But pressing all 3 buttons at once is a little difficult. Since most of my stuff is Kanger I can't say much about the other mods he mentioned.

A .5 coil at 4.2v is only 35w, and about 8.5A, you should be fine with a 20A battery. I vape a .5 coil at 10-12 watts but that's me everybody has different taste, and your juice can make a difference too.

My at home mod is a Kanger 120w TC, with the dual LG HG2 batteries it lasts a couple of days, but I don't use very high wattage.

The best root beer float I have had is not your fathers root beer and vanilla ice cream, and no you don't vape it.

I'm with Bebop on horizontal coils, got a pile of verticals that came with tanks that I don't intend to use.

I do a root beer and vanilla custard all the time. Its pretty good. 15% root beer and 5% vanilla custard

My guess it could be your juice is different than your friend's juice. PG/VG ratios can drastically make a difference.