FXRich

The Innokin Itaste vv 3.0. is a 800mAh battery, probably won't last long, between charging, not a good choice if you don't have backups. Have some patience and people here will help you pick a better device, that would better suit your needs. Nothing worse than wanting to vape and find out you have a dead battery, its similar to wanting a ciggy and having no way to light it.

Too bad the innokincell disruptor isn't a TC mod.

Normally a coil will get hot fast, and cool off fairly fast too, what you have is a coil that takes longer to heat up, and also cool down slower, probably good for a couple of good hits then needs a cool down period. What you have might work better with a TC setting that would limit how hot it got, but what is the coil made of, and do you have a TC mode for that type of wire, I don't think that tank was designed for TC though. I just checked, it has a Tungsten coil, not TC compatible. I guess you can use it in TC mode, in the Ni setting and about 40 degrees less than your desired temp, this info I got from steam engine.

The Krixus has a ceramic core that takes awhile to heat up, because the core has to heat up not just the coil. The minimum wattage recommended is 60w, going by what the manufacturer says.

There's lots of videos online that show how to do it, I don't bother taking the top off, just stick a pin through the holes to hold the coil in place while attaching the coil leads, and then wick it. That's another reason I drilled the holes out, I use a 3mm id coil and the holes are only 2.9mm if that. Now I can use a 3mm pin to hold the coil in place when attaching the leads.

They are as easy to rebuild as the KPT single coils, maybe easier because they are bigger. The verticals are a PITA to rebuild though. I did drill one out this morning, built it and no dry hits, even when chain vaping.

I use 28g 316L in the RBAs for my Subtank minis, 5 wraps around 3mm gives me .50 - .53 ohms. I only use the other coils in Subvod tanks and Nano tanks.

I have been rebuilding the horizontal occ coils, for some time now. Does anyone else here do that also? At first I was using coils with a 2.5mm id but was getting a lot of dry hits because of poor wicking, I changed to a 3mm id coil, and it helped a lot, but still a few dry hits. The holes in the side of the coil are 2.9mm, I was considering drilling them out to 1/8 inch which is 3.18mm to help juice flow. Not sure if that would help. The SS316L coils I use come out between .9 and 1 ohm. Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated.

I have several Kanger 75w TC mods, and one 120w Kanger TC mod, I don't need anywhere near 120w but with 2 18650 batteries in it the battery life is very long, I don't use it constantly so sometimes the batteries go 5 days. Its good that you have someplace to take your tank so it can be reassembled, without costing you anything. What I like about the Kanger TC mods is you can use pretty much any coil in TC mode, I even used a Kanthal coil in TC mode once and it worked pretty good.

I use SS in TC mode and watt mode, I guess I use SS for everything. Your TC will vary from mod to mod. Not all mods will vape the same when set at a certain temp. Probably a difference in boards. I use Kanger TC mods, and the settings are pretty consistent. Depending on the juice I stay from 350f to 380f, different juices need different temp settings, and higher VG juices need a higher temp. What's nice about TC is you won't burn the cotton if you run out of juice, you just won't get any vapor, or very little vapor as long as your temp is set below the point where cotton will burn, which I think is about 420f. I very rarely use factory coils, I even rebuild the coils I use in my Subvods replacing the Nichrome coils with SS coils. With my Subtank Minis I use the RBAs exclusively, so I very rarely have to buy coils.

I use a 30PG/70VG mix, I find with a 20PG/80VG mix I tend to get dry hits if I chain vape. Not all the coils with red insulators use SS, some use a Nichrome coil, the coil should have either SS, or NC printed on the coil, I believe Kanger is starting to switch to SS for most of their coils but not sure. The coils with a black insulator use a Clapton coil which are Kanthal wire, I'm not impressed with the Kanger Clapton coil, they require more power and don't deliver any more flavor or vapor in my opinion.

You might try putting a short piece of Kanthal, or other wire under the Ni200 if you have room, the harder wire might be enough so the Ni200 will not shear, in short the harder wire will be support for the Ni200.

What kind of coil are you using in the NEBox? Once you get a dry hit, it usually means the cotton is gone, and you will continue to get dry hits until you change the coil. The rubber band thingy is probably a o-ring.

I have a preference for VapeNW, or Sweetvapes. Sweetvapes is in Wisconsin and takes 4-5 days to get my order, and VapeNW is in Washington, less than 300 miles from me, so I usually get my order in 2 days. I'm going to be in Washington next month, not far from VapeNW, and plan to see if their store price is the same as their web price. VapeNW has the istick 60w TC for 28.99 Sweetvapes has them for 28.95, not a big difference.

I have a preference for VapeNW, or Sweetvapes. Sweetvapes is in Wisconsin and takes 4-5 days to get my order, and VapeNW is in Washington, less than 300 miles from me, so I usually get my order in 2 days. I'm going to be in Washington next month, not far from VapeNW, and plan to see if their store price is the same as their web price. VapeNW has the istick 60w TC for 28.99 I answered the wrong post didn't I

It also takes longer in my opinion for a coil to crud up when using TC. Maybe its because the juice doesn't get as hot.

Any salesperson with half a brain would have sold you a bottle with 6mg nic and a bottle with 0 nic and told you to mix it yourself. I'm sure glad I mix my own juice.

If she added 3 drops of 100% nic yes you would get 3mg per ml, I am very sure she didn't use 100% nic as it is hard to come by and dangerous to handle.

Southern Comfort is basically a flavored bourbon, I don't know of any ejuice makers that make it. There are websites that have ejuice recipes, where you could find a DIY recipe to make it yourself.

The Cuboid 75w has a 510 connection so any 510 threaded tank will fit on it, all the Subtanks I have seen have a 510 connection.

You could do like some people on here do, Mix your own juice its easy to do and you save a lot of money, Also you will probably end up with better juice. Besides then you will know what's in it.

If you like the Nano get another Nano or a Subtank Mini, Currently I use 6 Subtank minis, and 4 Nanos. There is nothing wrong with the other tanks, they are very good tanks, but from what I have read on here they require high wattage unless you use the 1.8ohm coil, or another high resistance coil. Also the Subtank mini and the Nano use the same coil. Just my opinion.

Agree with you on the pulse rating, should label them with continuous discharge. I don't think they are worth the extra $ so I'll stick with the HG2

By the way welcome to Vapor/Talk. Kanger is my brand of choice, but not everybody here likes Kanger. Like every thing else different people have different preferences.

The NEBox was kind of a Kanger flop, some people like them, but most people do not. The Subvod is a good setup, but battery life isn't long enough for most people. I don't know much about the istick 40w so won't comment on that one. I use Kanger products almost exclusively. Have enough subtank minis and nanos that I use daily. I have 2 Subvods that I use a lot, but don't use the .5 coils I have a preference for the horizontal 1.2ohm coils instead, but they are getting hard to come by lately.