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Everything posted by FXRich
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FDA REGULATIONS! VERY IMPORTANT!
FXRich replied to BirdDog's topic in Vaping Legislation & Regulation News
I have settled on a 30PG/70VG mix, so I could also use a PG base, not sure yet how to go, may end up ordering a 100mg 50/50 base. -
FDA REGULATIONS! VERY IMPORTANT!
FXRich replied to BirdDog's topic in Vaping Legislation & Regulation News
I don't think I'll do it, The 1 liter bottle is full, and has very little air, and the other bottle is about half full, can't see purging it every time I take some out of it. Going to order another 1 liter bottle of 100mg just to have it. Heartlandvapes has 1 liter plastic bottles for $45 all I have to do is transfer it to a glass bottle after I get it, and then put it in the freezer. Maybe instead of storing it in a 1 liter bottle I can store it in 2 500ml bottles or maybe 4 250ml bottles, might keep longer that way. -
FDA REGULATIONS! VERY IMPORTANT!
FXRich replied to BirdDog's topic in Vaping Legislation & Regulation News
I got a tank of argon, use it for welding aluminum. All I have to do now is devise a way to purge the bottles of nic base of oxygen and replace it with argon. -
FDA REGULATIONS! VERY IMPORTANT!
FXRich replied to BirdDog's topic in Vaping Legislation & Regulation News
Thanks for doing the math for me earthling, I would like to know how many people have died from vaping, probably none, but it has saved a lot of people who used to smoke. just my opinion, which the politicians don't care about, all they see is the loss of cigarette taxes. -
FDA REGULATIONS! VERY IMPORTANT!
FXRich replied to BirdDog's topic in Vaping Legislation & Regulation News
I have to figure out how long the 1 1/2 liters of 100mg nic base in the freezer will last me, I use 4mg for vaping. -
IMR wasn't the only place that sold them, I guess a lot of places sold them. And I always thought LG made them in S Korea instead of China. I emailed IMR just in case, but from the info on their website I got mine before they received the bad batch. Mine have been performing very well and holding a good charge, but I use them at low watts anyway except for TC and then I don't know what the initial watts are anyway.
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I decided to check up on the batteries I got from IMR, They shipped my batteries on February 9, and didn't receive the bad batch until march, so I guess I'm safe. Thanks for the info Jason.
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The last time I bought batteries from IMR was about 4 months ago, and all mine have the matte insulator, so they are probably genuine. Won't need any more for awhile so not going to worry very much about it.
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Using TC on my 75w mods, and the 120w mod seems to be the same, but they are both Kanger mods, I think TC probably varies between different brands because of different boards, and chips on the board. The only thing that seems to vary for me is what juice I use, all my juice is 30PG/70VG, but the temp seems to vary depending on the flavor. SS works well for me with all my mods including the Subvods, so I think I will stick with it, I better because I just ordered 2 more 50m rolls of it when I already have 2 1/2 rolls of it, didn't really need it but was ordering other stuff and decided to add it in.
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Personally I prefer the Ti wire over the Ni200, but I don't use either one for TC, I had a couple of rolls of each, but gave them away due to not liking it, and now just use SS for TC, but at least I tried it. I suppose if I would have built more than one coil with Ni200 I probably would have gotten used to it, but didn't like the nickel taste.
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What kind of battery do you have? a .3 coil at 40w will draw 11amps from your battery, if you only have a 10amp battery that may be the problem.
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The SMY60 will only fire down to .3 ohms, maybe your coil is built too low. Or maybe you are using a crappy 18650 battery.
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Ni200 is hard to build with anyway, I did it once then went back to SS. The only Eleaf istick TC that will do SS is the 100w and I know you don't like separate batteries. The only thing I really enjoy about TC is when you run out of juice you won't burn the cotton.
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The best flavor I get with all my TC mods included is with a Subvod with a 1.2 horizontal coil in it. yes it does sound strange, but I think its true.
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In order to run .4 ohms SS in Ti mode if you want run 400f you have to set the temp at 150f, Eleaf 40w TC will only go as low as 200f, got the info from Steam engine. If I remember right don't you have a RBA for that triton?
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Its possible your atomizer coil might be shorted, do you have another atomizer to try, or possibly another coil?
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I don't have any mech mods, and never did, so I can't recommend something I never had. The mod you have from what I hear is one of the best out there, in some ways it will out perform a mech mod. If you want a mod that will out perform any mech mod get a RX200. Just my opinion.
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I still use Kanthal in my KPT coils, but for everything else I use SS, the only thing about using SS in power mode is the resistance increases with heat, my .8 coils go to .9 when I'm vaping in power mode, when dry burning they can go as high as 1.2, so the only time I use them in power mode is on a Subvod, anytime else I use them in TC. IT seems like Kanthal is the most widely used wire, I even tried it a few times in Nichrome mode, and it seemed to work OK, as long as the temp was set a lot lower than what I wanted.
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I personally have a preference for SS316L, but that is my preference. Other people prefer other wire. 5 wraps of 28g on 3mm gives me .50 - .53 ohms in a Kanger Subtank Mini RBA single coil build. I don't care for Clapton coils either, they draw more power and don't give much more vapor in my opinion. Some people have a preference for flat wire, I have used it and it works well but a PITA to build. With a little higher ohm build you can get more volts out of the mod you have, I don't know what watts you run at but your mod is limited to 120w. At 120w with a .12 coil you mill run about 3.7 volts, with a .25 coil at the same watts you will get 5.7 volts. A mech mod will only supply the voltage that the battery has, a regulated mod will increase the voltage.
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More wraps = more juice contact, try 24g. Don't try to use a .12 coil on a mech mod, with a .12 coil and a fully charged battery you will draw about 35 amps from the battery, it will be a bomb waiting to go off. A regulated mod is much safer for builds below .2 ohms. Other people here will tell you not to use a mech mod with a coil below .2 ohms. A lot of cloud chasers prefer Clapton wire, you can try that too. You can also look for the thread called Share Your Coil Builds, it might give you some idea of what to do.
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I did a little research on the innokincell disruptor, and you can buy another battery for it to carry as a spare, at $16.50, a little spendy but the charging port is built into the battery so no need for a separate charger. although it is limited to 50w it should be enough for most tanks.
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Can understand the cause you can thing, done it many times myself, and sometimes I regret it, sometimes not. I'm waiting for Kanger to come out with the update for the 120w mod, it doesn't always ask if a new coil has been put on, sometimes it seems to auto sense it and locks it in.
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That depends on your preferences. All my mods are Kanger so my experience with different mods is nonexistent. I use mostly the Kanger 75w TC mod, but I also like the 120w Kanger TC mod, which lasts for days because it is dual battery, but is a little too big for me to take with me when I leave home. As far as tanks go I'm a big fan of the Kanger Subtank mini, coils are cheap or you can use the RBA that comes with it. One of the best buys in my opinion is the Kanger 75w TC topbox kit, for around $50 you get the mod, and tank, the only thing that don't come with it is the battery and juice. The innokincell disruptor has a 2000mAh battery the LG HG2 is a 3000mAh battery, which can be charged in the mod or in a separate charger, a lot of people here carry a spare 18650 battery and switch when needed.
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Once you update sometimes you can't go back. If the update only makes it capable of 250w instead of 200w why bother, I personally don't know anybody that vapes at 100w much less 250w, is the update suppose to do anything else, besides up the watts?