FXRich

There is a problem living here that involves vaping, when I go someplace it's not uncommon to change altitude a lot, when you change altitude it causes tanks to leak, so when I go to town I have to vape a lot or my tank will leak. Not a problem in the car, but when I ride my bike I have leaky tanks.

I have tried many different tips, for awhile I was using a protank 2 drip tip on my Subtank minis, and they work just as well as the tip that came with the tank. I have a CNC lathe, and have made what I prefer to use for myself, a Delrin tip with a little larger hole through the base, and a diameter that's a little larger than a protank tip. It works for me. The only problem is I walked away from the machine with a full bar of Delrin in it, now I have several hundred that I can't find the right O-rings for.

I run my Kanger 75w TC mods between 360f, and 380f depending on the juice. I can't get any vape at 200f using a .5 SS coil when using the SS TC mode. I have noticed something about the Kanger TC mods, sometimes they won't ask if you are using a new coil, and use the resistance from the previous coil. The easy fix is before you put the tank on with the new coil, hold the fire button until the display flashes 9.99 ohms, put the tank on and it should ask if its a new coil.

Could do that, but I think I'll stick to what I'm doing now. I use 4 wraps of 28g kanthal on a 3mm pin, and it comes out to 1.1 - 1.2 ohms. In watt mode it seems to work a little better than factory Nichrome coils, but that's just my opinion. One of the reasons I prefer to use TC is no dry hits, even when I chain vape, and coils last longer usually. Seems to me some juices vape better in TC, and others do better in watts. I currently use in rotation 6 minis, and 4 nanos, I could dedicate 1 of the minis to using watts instead of TC, (something I have thought about) Each of the minis have different color O-rings, so it wouldn't be hard to do.

That would depend on what you want, try this place, and you should be able to figure it out. http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

The main reason I use the RBA in the mini is for TC, a .5 SS coil works for me the best in TC. I suppose I could use the NiCr TC mode for the factory Nichrome coils, but I use Kanthal to rebuild the 1.2 horizontal coils, and I might get them mixed up.

Hearing about how the nanny state is getting out of control makes me glad I live where I do. A place down the road from me gets mistaken for a junkyard sometimes, the guy across the road flies a confederate flag below the American flag. Gunshots can be heard daily, and nobody pays any attention to it, I built a 100 yard shooting range in the back of my property, and some of my neighbors use it regularly. Yes I may be old fashioned, but I like it that way, and I don't care if I offend somebody, and sometimes do it on purpose. Rant over for now, have a nice day.

I'm not a cloud chaser, but the subtank mini can block my view of the TV, or the monitor. I use a RBA in my subtank minis, but in the Nanos that I use, I use a 1.2 horizontal coil, not quite the clouds as I get from the minis, but lots of flavor. One of these days I will have to try the 1.2 coil in a subtank mini. The nanos I use on a Subvod battery, or a 50w Kbox, I use the minis on Kanger TC mods with SS .5 coils. I have not tried Ni coils, but have tried Ti, the SS seems to give better flavor. I have never had a leaking problem with either the Subtank mini, or the Nano, except for user error, or leaving it in a hot car. I have not tried any subohm tanks besides the Kanger subtanks, I guess I'm satisfied with what I have and don't need to change. Just my 2 cents worth.

A lot of people in this country are tired of politicians, and everything they represent.

Those codes only apply to Kanger coils, I have no knowledge of crown tanks, or the coils they use, but generally the higher the resistance the less watts you need.

I have 2 Subvods, and haven't had a leaking problem with either one, even after sitting for a couple of days full of juice. Chis is probably right about the o-rings being missing. sometimes a extra o-ring gets stuck on the coil, and causes leaking.

I use 3 Top tank minis, and 3 Subtank minis in rotation, each has a different flavor. I only use the RBA with a .5 SS coil, and even when chain vaping they get warm, but not hot. Depending on the juice I run 360F - 380F, Earthling could be on to something with what he said about the batteries, I only use the LG HG2 batteries in my mods, and don't have a problem with the mod getting hot or even warm. Using a Subvod, they get a little warm when chain vaping with a 1.2 coil, I have rebuilt the OCC horizontal coils with a .8 coil, and they did get hot so now I only rebuild them using a 1.2 kanthal coil. It could be the low ohm coil might cause the Top tank to heat up.

I will try to explain how temperature control works, The metal your coil is made from has a TCR (temperature coefficient of resistance) as the coil gets hotter the resistance increases, the mod measures the resistance change, when it gets to the proper resistance it pulses the wattage to keep the coil at the resistance, it should be to stay at a certain temp. All metals have a different TCR that is why you have to match the mode setting to the type of metal your coil is made of. Most mods assume the temp is at 20C or 68F when you set the coil. If you find this confusing that's ok, I think I confused myself.

Not really a problem if that's the correct reading, it shouldn't be that far off, but with factory coils its possible. I have found very few factory coils that read exactly what's it supposed to read. try starting at 370f, and go up or down, depending on what you like. Always make sure the coil is at room temperature when setting a coil, or the reading may be off.

Black gasket is the Clapton Red/pink gasket is Nichrome/SS316L The blue gasket is Ni200 Looks like you have the Ni coil in the tank, you should be using the Ni mode in TC. TC pulses the wattage to keep the coil at a set temperature. The only coil you have that you cannot use in TC is the Clapton, it uses Kanthal wire. There is a NiCr mode with the Kanger 75w that can be used for Nichrome wire, and a SS mode for SS wire. Take your tank off, press the fire button until the ohms display flashes 9.99 then reinstall the tank and it should ask if its a new coil, press the + button for yes, and you should get a more accurate ohms reading. assuming you have it in the correct mode for the coil installed.

The temperature range depends on what you like, and the mod you use, also it depends on your juice, some juices like it hot others don't. You will find what is best for you. I could recommend you start at about 370f, and go up or down from there until you find what you like.

I don't know anyone that uses Titanium wire for vaping, in my opinion it was a here today gone tomorrow thing. I do have some 28g and 26g titanium wire, tried it, and found SS works much better. I will probably get responses from people that use titanium wire, but that's ok.

I was wrong the Uwell Crown uses SS coils, not the triton. Too many mods and tanks to keep track of. I looked it up the .3 and .4 triton coils are SS, but the 1.8 is Kanthal.

I have never used Ni coils, I'm just repeating what I heard, some people like Ni, but I have heard as much bad about Ni as I have heard good. So far I haven't heard anything bad about SS, not yet that is.

Yes they bend very easy, and from what I hear the heat can distort them too.

The trouble with SS is not many factory coils use it, but starting to become more common. I have heard that Triton coils use SS, but can't verify that. The biggest problem I see with Ni coils is they distort easy

SS is stiffer than Ni but not as springy as Kanthal. Its easier to work with in my opinion, I have been using it for a long time now, I even used it to rebuild Kanger OCC horizontal coils for my Subvods. But now I use Kanthal to rebuild Subvod coils.

The 9V setting would work fine. What tells you if a battery is no good no more is when it no longer takes a charge, or the charge doesn't last as long as it should.

I personally have a preference for SS when using TC, but that's me, and other people might prefer something else. A few of these new mods will work with any kind of wire. One advantage of SS is it can be used for TC or for power mode, something you can't do with Ti or Ni200.

Your Kbox Nano probably came with the V1 Nano tank that has only 1 air slot, the V2 Nano has 2 air slots, and the Nano top fill also has 2, it is possible you don't have the air open all the way, and that might cause leaking depending on how hard you draw on it. But like Earthling stated I also never had a problem with the Nanos leaking.