FXRich

Now I see, I have .4 X 1 and .5 X 1 kanthal flat wire I used to use in KPT coils. Maybe I'll try 30r .5f I do have those wires.

Is your tiger wire similar to this stuff https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10026312/5925701-316l-stainless-steel-juggernaut-heating-wire-for

Most people like the 60w, I prefer the versatility of the 160w. you never know someone else might want one too. I think I'll go for the silver.

I have thought about tiger wire a few times. I do have lots of wire round and flat. What do you twist together to get your tiger wire, I might get bored and try it.

You already have the coils I want but not the 160w Dripbox to put them in. Correction, you don't have the coils, just the 60w dripbox, but I want the 160 Dripbox.

We all entitled to our opinions, Some like TC others don't, I like TC and use it about 75% of the time, I have 3 mods that don't have TC, can't use what you don't have. I have noticed some juices taste better with TC, others taste better using watts. But that's just my opinion, what tastes better to me might taste nasty to someone else.

For someone using a mech mod, a dedicated ohmmeter is a necessity, or they could blow themselves up. Newer box mods will not fire or shut down when the resistance is too low. When people first started building their own coils, mech mods were used a lot, so a dedicated ohmmeter was needed. I figure if a TC mod can detect a very small change in resistance, .0001 in some cases, they have to be pretty accurate even when used in watt mode.

I think I paid about $400.00 for my Fluke 87 multimeter, I bought it to work on CNC controllers. Not exactly cheap, but it wasn't designed for checking vape coils. Most of my coils I use in TC mode, and a lot depends on what the mod reads not what another device reads. I can adjust the multimeter to adjust itself to compensate for the lead resistance, but not going to do that. because I use different leads for different applications. The TC mods available now are far superior to the VV/VW mods of the past, when it comes to accurate ohm measurement. They may be more accurate than my multimeter.

Biggest deck I have to build on is a Subtank mini RBA, tried building a dual coil, but not enough room. Been thinking about a 160w dripbox, but haven't got there yet. (waiting to see if Chris is going to get any) I have 2 of those dedicated ohmmeters, one don't work and the other one is very inaccurate. I also have a Fluke multimeter, which is very accurate but only reads down to 1/10 of a ohm, but it does read the same as my mods if I deduct the .3 ohm lead resistance.

Sometimes you just have to experiment, last night I twisted 4 strands of 30g Kanthal tightly together, did a 5 wrap coil around 3mm, didn't have any idea what the resistance would be but ended up with a .5 build (according to my 50w mod). Normally I run my SS .5 builds about 15w, I had to run this coil at 25w, I did notice more vapor, but taste was about the same. I know twisted wire is not the same as a Clapton coil, but it did seem to vape better than a single wire build, but more watts were needed.

When I said spitback I was referring to the hot droplets of juice that get into your mouth when the juice doesn't vaporize completely, for me they seem to hit the tip of my tounge mostly.

Right now I'm working on a coil that I made using 4 strands of 30g kanthal twisted together, kind of looks like a Clapton coil. Don't know what the resistance will be but I guess I'll find out when I put it in a RBA.

I always use spaced coils, usually in my kanger RBAs I use 5 wraps around 3mm with 28g 316, and get .49 - .52 ohms. One of my builds I'm using 2 strands of twisted 30g 316, and getting .46 ohms. I don't notice much difference if any. I might end up ordering some SS Clapton wire, but not committed yet.

To keep bugs out of the juice. Actually it eliminates spitback, I sometimes cut a small piece of SS mesh to put under the drip tip, but having it built into the drip tip is easier.

Its all your fault Cany, now I'm thinking about ordering some Clapton wire. So far the only Clapton coil I tried was the factory Kanger .5 Clapton coil, and was not impressed with it.

I sometimes use twisted wire coils, but that's as far as I go. I tried flat wire coils too, but seem to revert back to the simple 1 wire coil. If I was into cloud chasing I would spend more time figuring out Clapton coils.

There are a lot of variables involved in Clapton coils, core wire dia. wrap wire dia. sometimes you have to deal with more than 1 core wire, or multiple wrap wires, I gave up before I even started.

When I do get stuff from China it takes 2 - 3 weeks, I don't order anything from China that I need right now, but something that I already have that I want to stock up on, like coils or wire, something that I won't need for a few weeks.

What are the Chinese using to verify age, probably nothing but the normal are you over 18 thing that you have to say yes to.

Central Oregon has taken in a lot of Cal. refuges, I call them refuges because they are fleeing oppression. Some are good people, some aren't. When one of them tell me "that's the way we do it in Cal." I tell them to go back because we do it differently here. I know it might sound harsh, but we enjoy our way of life and don't want to change it. Have a nice day.

His friend can still get him stuff, just not at the store. Personally I don't like the idea of minors vaping, but I would rather see them vape than smoke. Just my 2 cents.

For $17.00 it would make a good PIF item, if it didn't work out. I'm going to quit buying for awhile I think, I have 4 mods, and 6 tanks that are still in the box unopened. Bring on the Vapocalypse, I'm ready for it.

If it starts to hurt too badly, a half a bottle of JD will help.

If I made as much money as they do I wouldn't be complaining about anything.

Sometimes colored glass is just coated, usually its in the glass though. Next time you take it apart try using a little steel wool to remove the coating, maybe you can maybe you can't, but it might be worth a try. Did it come with a spare glass?