FXRich

You don't have to be good at math to mix juice, a good juice calculator will do it for you. Assuming you put the right info into your juice calculator. The site I linked you to also has some good recipes too.

If you want 6mg juice you will need to put 1.8ml of 100mg base in a 30ml bottle of juice. A 1 liter bottle of 100mg base should make about 16 liters of juice or about 16,666 ml of 6mg juice, that's a lot of juice.

I use 100mg base its cheaper in the long run, VG is cheap but base is not. For a calculator I use ejuicemeup it can be found here. http://www.kritikalmass.net/calculators.asp

Welcome to VT Don't know about having more experience, because I'm not familiar with your hardware either. I started vaping after having a couple of stent implants in February of 09 (can't believe its been that long). I started with a Volt setup, and quickly moved on to a better setup when they became available, now I use mostly subtanks, and turned my habit into a hobby, I traded smoking for shinyitus, better for my health, but not for the wallet. In my opinion the hand to mouth habit is just as hard to kick as the nicotine habit. Some vaping hardware is better quality than others, you may have to get better hardware before you can completely kick the ciggy habit. I'm not going to suggest what you should buy, because only you know what you need and want. There are plenty of other people here that will help you spend your life savings on quality vape gear.

I think what you may be looking for is tobacco absolute, which a few places carry, but it is very spendy $160.00 for a 4 oz. bottle at Flavor West, other places probably sell it and the price may vary. Commonly only about 1 drop of Tobacco Absolute per 10 ml of juice is used.

I have to admit its a good MTL tank, but I'm into rebuilding coils instead of buying new ones, and it looks like it would be hard to rebuild the Nautilus X coil. And I'm not thrilled about the 2ml tank, its a good tank to make the 2 mile trip to the mailbox, and back. I run about 12 - 13 watts, and it seems to do very well.

The pin comes with the 24mm, but has to be ordered separately for the 22mm, at least that's the way I see it on various sites. I guess the 22mm plus comes with a squonk pin, but its almost as much as the Aspire kit.

Actually I wanted the smaller kit that just included the RDA, but didn't want to wait for Chris to get them in stock. The smaller kit with just the RDA parts is about half the price. With the survival kit you get enough parts to build 2 tanks, I don't know yet what I'm going to do with the Nautilus X yet I may use it or PIF it.

I have looked at them, but only the 24mm comes with a squonk pin, and I wanted a 22mm. I ended up with a Aspire RDA, and that seems to work great for me. At least the aspire has a well to hold juice, which the Kanger RDA doesn't have a well. And the 60w coil decks will interchange with the 160w, its the same RDA.

Today I got a Aspire Quad Flex survival kit from the VT store, been using it on my 160w dripbox it seems to work better than the RDA that came with the mod. The RDA that came with the mod didn't have a well, The Aspire RDA has a well which helps a lot. I went through the 7 ml squonk bottle in a couple of hours, its a juice hog, but that's ok because I DIY my juice.

I use 6 Kanger Subtank minis in rotation, and use the RBA exclusively in all of them. Never had one leak that was not user error, or when I left it in a hot car. They have been a good tank for me.

I got tired of drilling them out, now I use a 3mm or maybe its a 1/8 inch jewelers file to make the holes bigger. Works for me, and I don't have to go out to the shop to do it.

I got a 50 pack of OCC coils from FT, so did a few others here. I believe they are Kanger seconds, or possibly over production. The bodies, gaskets, and pins are identical to Kanger coils, but the coil that's inside isn't the best. I even got one with no threads. But I bought them to rebuild, and they work great for that. I did find that when rebuilding OCC coils Rayon works better for me than cotton. Some people don't like the rayon, but I do, and $14 at sally's beauty supply buys a lifetime supply.

You could rebuild them with a horizontal coil, but the third hole creates a problem. Rebuilding them as a vertical coil will leave you with 1 of the legs being pretty long.

I got them at Slowtech https://www.fasttech.com/products/3007/10014665/2566300

I have looked at rebuilding the round vertical Kanger coils, but have not tried it yet, they look to be a PITA to rebuild. I like the old square horizontal coils for rebuilding, they are easy to rebuild and have good flavor. The big drawback to the square horizontal coils is Kanger quit making them. There are clones available from FT, but they are not as good as the Kanger coils, even though they are stamped Kangertech, but for rebuilding purposes the are just as good as the Kanger coils. A while back I ordered 10 Kanger RBAs from FT, 2 of them didn't work well and ended up keeping them for parts for the other RBAs I have.

The manual that came with it should tell you how to switch modes. Three fast clicks of the fire button switches the modes. I have several of the Kanger 75w TC box mods, before you put the tank with a new coil on, press the fire button until 9.99 flashes, or it may read the last coil instead of the new coil. Also sometimes you will have to push the pin in the 510 connection in the base in a little because the coils may vary slightly in length. When putting a new coil in make sure there is not a O-ring from the previous coil stuck to the base, which does happen or the new coil may have 2 O-rings instead of just 1, in either case it will leak. Personally I haven't had a coil with 2 O-rings on it, but other people have reported it. Lastly going back to the coil length you may have to pry the center pin on the mod up a little, they advertise a spring loaded pin, but the spring isn't very strong, and doesn't put much pressure on the pin. Your pic shows your mod is in NC mode which is for Nichrome, you should be using Ni mode which is for Ni 200.

Looks cool except for the plastic looking tank.

I wish I could be more help. I have seen the additive smooth, but was never interested in using it. I did notice it contains Triacetin, which I have problems with because it doesn't like to mix well with VG, my experience with it was not good, it likes to separate after it is mixed, even in the tank it separates. So personally I won't buy a flavor with Triacetin in it. Just my opinion.

It depends on your target resistance, and what kind of wire you want to use. You will probably want to use Kanthal, or Nichrome. You can find out what to use by going to this site http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp

If you add too much flavor you can get a medicine taste, too little and the flavor is muted, A happy medium is sometimes hard to get. I have tried lots of different PG/VG ratios, and have settled on 30PG/70VG, but that's me. After close to 50 years of smoking my taste buds are pretty much shot, its something I have to except, but have to add they are slowly coming back after 4 years of vaping. only time can repair the damage done to taste buds from smoking.

You are very welcome, glad to hear it worked out for you.

Don't know what you mean by flavor going backwards, but most people say the higher the PG the more flavor. The amount of flavor depends on the flavor used, in the case of coffee I only use 6%, other flavors I use as much as 25%. I try to stay about 20% flavor, but sometimes you will need a little more sometimes a little less. It all depends on what you like. I don't believe there is a set amount especially when using multiple flavors in a mix.

If all else fails, you may have to take it apart. in the battery compartment there are 2 screws, one is covered by a sticker, when the screws are removed the mod will come apart. Just be careful of the wires and spring that may go flying.

Using a needle nose pliers should work, try grabbing it and wiggling it a little. If you can't grab it, try tapping the bottom on a table top it might pop out.