FXRich

I tried Clapton coils too, but like you I found them to be lacking in flavor. Lots of vapor not much flavor, and they shorten the battery life. To me a good alternative is twisted wire, not as much surface, but more flavor than Clapton.

That's the trouble with SS 316 its a low resistance wire, In my Dripbox I use a dual coil SS setup, but I use a 3mm id 8 wrap single strand 28g wire, and get a .39 reading. I never have been a fan of Clapton coils, I don't feel a need to fog the house up.

We don't want to hear on the news about somebody in Mi. named Walt blowing himself up. I would say the mod is giving you a more accurate reading, I have 2 of those so called meters 1 don't work anymore, and the other is very inaccurate, maybe its because they were on clearance when I bought them. a .07 coil at 150w uses 3.2V and 38 Amps, a 1.02 coil at 150w uses 12.4V and 12 Amps, I don't know if your mod will put out 12.4V. Either way don't blow yourself up.

The RX200 does have a stealth mode, to take it out of stealth mode press the fire button, then the up and down buttons at the same time.

Going by the watts you want to run, you want a subtank of some kind. There are many to chose from that give good flavor. I personally prefer the Kanger Subtank Mini, it gives good flavor, and a decent cloud. But running a .6 coil I don't normally get over 25 watts. I don't have a Baby beast, but a lot of people here swear by them, from what I hear they don't start working good until you get up to about 80 watts. depending on the coil you may need to use over 100 watts. The tank choice depends on your vaping style and what your mod is capable of.

Its very possible too much cotton may impede airflow around the coil, some RDAs have airflow that comes from under the coil, and so it would make sense to not put cotton under the coil. Just my 2 cents on the subject.

For wattage mode I use 26g Kanthal, .8 - .9 ohm range. For TC I use 28g 316L .7 - .8 ohm range. For dripping I use a 28g SS dual coil setup, around .4 ohms. Whether I use TC or watts my coils run about .8 ohms, which is what I prefer, but others may prefer a higher, or lower resistance depending on how they vape.

I found the flavor using the Kanger vertical factory coils to be lacking in flavor, not so with the Kanger horizontal coils, which Kanger discontinued some time ago. Now I use The RBA in all my Subtank/toptank minis, I can build the RBA to give great flavor, and cloud, and a added bonus is I haven't bought any coils in at least 6 months. I still use the factory horizontal coils in the Subvods I have, and use sometimes, but I rebuild them.

That's a baby beast, there should not be any plastic in that tank with the exception of the drip tip. The burning plastic smell may be coming from a overheated battery, The baby beast uses a lot more power than the Artic tank, and your battery might not be up to it.

There are some tanks that use high watts, (the baby beast comes to mind), that use over 100w Like you I very rarely get over 25w, but I do have 3 dual battery mods that will do over 100w, at the watts I run the dual batteries last a long time. If you have a car that is capable of 150, doesn't mean you have to drive it that fast. 2 of the mods I use daily are Kanger 75w TC mods with a Subtank mini on top, a very good setup in my opinion.

I may be part German, but I like my dark beer, and my Jagermeister both cold.

In Germany do they serve Jagermeister at room temperature like they do beer? I always drink Jagermeister ice cold.

I try to keep a bottle or 2 on hand myself, I guess its an acquired taste.

Does that mean you are not going to try my recipe? What tastes good to me don't taste to you. That's OK if you come up with a spinach flavored juice I sure won't be trying that.

Was messing around the other day trying to come up with a good flavor, thought I would try to make up some Absinthe, so I mixed up a 10ml batch of 15% Root Beer FW 5% Anise FW Didn't taste much like Absinthe, but it did taste like Jagermeister, at least it did to me. That happens a lot to me try to mix one thing and get something else.

From the research I have done Melt by SQN is a white chocolate, and strawberry mix, don't know the exact mix but you could try this recipe I found. http://www.kritikalmass.net/proddetail.asp?prod=Love-Juice Other people may have other recipes that may be closer to what you want.

Mech mods do have their place in the vape world, and a lot of experienced vapors like them, but they have their limitations, one of the most popular tanks is the Baby beast, with coils down to .2 and .15 most people would consider them unsafe to use on a mech mod. I have 3 mods that will fire down to .05 ohms, (in theory a dead short), but I personally don't build coils below .5 I remember awhile back we had a poster (can't remember her name) that went into a vape shop, and wanted a setup to start vaping, she was sold a mech mod, and a dripper. Not a good setup for a beginner wanting to try vaping in my opinion. That is one of the reasons mech mods got a bad rep, people not knowing what they are doing. I like using temperature control, it is not available with a mech mod. Besides I have never heard of a regulated mod blowing up in a pocket or a purse.

I agree with Earthling about the Subtank mini, but if you mostly drip you may be interested in a Pico squeeze, or a Kanger Dripbox, or some other squonk box. I have a 160w Kanger Dripbox, it gives good flavor, and with a 7ml squonk bottle it goes a long time on a fill. I don't know much about the Pico squeeze, but the Kanger Dripbox RDA isn't very good, I ended up replacing it with a better RDA that has a squonk pin. The size is the only downside to the 160w Dripbox, its the same size and shape as the RX200, which in my opinion isn't a plus when traveling, most of the other squonk boxes I have seen use a single 18650 battery, but the Kanger 160w is a dual battery mod.

Personally I took the .6 ohm with a grain of salt, he might have used a multimeter, and not deducted the resistance of the leads. From what I read I assumed he built the mod himself, which would explain how he could get a wet coil red hot. Using 20g wire it would take more time to get a wet coil that hot, and a regulated mod would time out before that happened, or at least they are suppose to.

The Kanger BDC coils will work in the Subtank mini, but the airflow will be restricted, Like everyone else I don't know of another brand that will work.

Velocity style decks usually work pretty good, The positive leg is probably held with a screw from the bottom, Once in a while the screw on the bottom loosens a little, every time I rebuild my subtank mini RBA I check the peek insulator and make sure the screw is tight. You may also have a bad insulator, they can go bad.

You may have gotten a bad batch of coils, it does happen. Being you are a gadget junkie you may check into the RBA that is available for the Cupti, you will have to rebuild it yourself, but it may not leak.

If your tank looses vacuum it will leak, even a slight air leak at the top of the tank will cause it keep supplying juice to a already soaked wick. It is possible the Cupti was poorly designed to start with. The Cupti uses the same CLOCC coil that other Kanger tanks use, and the other tanks don't leak. (to the best of my knowledge) I don't have any tanks that use CLOCC coils so I can't really say much about the coils.

Sometimes if you tighten the tank too much it will show a short, don't have any beast tanks, so can't say much about the leaking problem.

You are welcome, I'm glad I could help.