Adversarious1

I've been following this thread with interest, just to kind of get an idea of what people suggested. Vaping, while originally started to get me off the analogs, has become yet another hobby for me. I already had plenty of hobbies, though. From guns to scale model building to running a website for a model club I belong to to guitars. The only difference between the things I do now and the things I did when I smoked is the fact that instead of having an ashtray sitting next to me on my main workbench or my mobile workbench, I have a mod (or 2...or 3) sitting next to me. The hardest part for me when I first quit was avoiding those things I normally associated with smoking. Things like drinking, bars, friends who still smoke, etc. I really didn't find myself getting bored because I wasn't smoking anymore, I just kept living life as I already did with only those few exceptions. So you may not need a new hobby, you may only need to keep doing what you did prior to quitting with the exception of avoiding those triggers.

I vape at the same wattage on the CB and at about 75 on the BB. Go figure. Maybe something while cleaning them? Honestly, I'm at a loss as to why they would warp (absent exposure to extremely high heat from the tanks).

Sorry @smacksy, I can't help with this one. I haven't had a warping issue with any of mine. Mine are very soft and flexible. All of my tanks came with replacements and I still have all of them. Did your replacements warp also?

The ohm meter is more than likely more accurate than the mod.

Are you referring to these?

In theory, yes. The early TC mods that have basic settings for Ni, Ti, SS are essentially just changing the TCR to match those wire types. With newer TC mods that have TCR and/or TFR settings you should be able to set the dial in the TCR value to match the value of kanthal and get close results. The problem is the lower the TCR value, the less accurate the results are going to be. It just isn't something I'm willing to toy around with, though. I'm allergic to blowing myself up.

I'm loving my Hohm Slice mod since it does TC with kanthal. The majority of my drop in coils are kanthal because other coils aren't available for the tanks I prefer to use and that's definitely a nice bonus. I have switched to primarily SS for my handmade coils because they can be vaped either way. I think there is another company besides Hohm Tech that is making a TC device that fires kanthal in TC now, but it was an obscure manufacturer. I also heard a rumor (literally heard, didn't read) that Evlov is working on a DNA chip that will fire kanthal. If that happens, I'll truly be in heaven.

For what it's worth, MSRP on the TFV12 according to SMOK's website is going to be $59.99. The MSRP for the TFV8 Cloud Beast is $54.99. Considering there are plenty of places where a Cloud Beast can be had for about $30 online I expect to be able to find the TFV12 for around $35-$40 online. The price will likely be closer to $40 for a bit and will start to drop to around $35 after the initial "ooooohh" and "aaahhhh" period.

The beautiful thing about TC - hit the desired temp and the chip will adjust the wattage as necessary to maintain the temp. I could never take a 7-8 second hit in wattage mode. It will continue to get hotter. The consistent temps help with longer draws and that's just one of the reasons I love TC.

Lots of great videos on Youtube and lost of willing to help folks here when you're ready, so don't be shy. Ask any questions you have and we shall answer.

It's not my fault if you don't like it...

Okay, I can't personally confirm this as it's based on info from another forum and photos of the AIO starter kit and I don't own one, but... Check the bottom of the mod. There should be a little hole right in the center. According to a couple of threads I saw elsewhere this is not a vent hole as one might expect, but is actually the access are to conduct a hard reset on the mod. Use a pen or paperclip to gently check the inside for a tiny button (similar to the reset button on many wifi routers or other electronic devices). Press the button for a few seconds and this should perform a hard reset on the control board inside the mod. That might fix the issue you are experiencing. The area where the button should be (again, according to info from another forum) is depicted in the following pic: @Ednamay be able to confirm whether or not this is an actual reset button access location or a vent hole. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, I got my info from another forum where someone described a similar issue and this was their solution.

Which version of the AIO are you using? Is it the ego starter version (pen style) with the built in battery, the evic box style with built in battery or is it the Pro C with removable 18650 battery?

Exactly. 1.8 ohm factory coils in a KPT2 on a regulated mod. Not an unregulated box mod or unregulated single 18650 mod with an RDA on it being used by someone who is admittedly confused by ohms, has used batteries that he doesn't know the history of and is openly asking for guidance.

@Tam at your 1.8 ohms you are fine because you aren't drawing many amps. Are you using them in regulated or unregulated mods? As @FXRich mentioned, the continuous discharge rate is very low. You can use a coil that is as low as .5 ohms, but not for very long. There will be considerable performance drop-off. Also, the OP mentioned they were given to him, so they likely weren't new and likely aren't performing at peak specs. Better safe than sorry in my opinion, especially when it comes to unregulated mech mods. I don't want to see another news story of an e-cig exploding because they are "dangerous" when it was probably user error due to a build too low for the batteries to handle safely. I don't even build lower than .5 ohms in my RDA's when I'm using them on my mechs mods with Samsung or LG batteries.

@Christopher beat me to it (almost ). Those are Panasonic NCR18650B batteries. I have three words: Get New Batteries. Even with the 3400 mah (actually tested closer to 3200 mah) they are only rated by the company at something like 6.5 amps. They were tested closer to 4.9 amps. I personally wouldn't even use those batteries in the tactical flashlight on my AR-15. I recommend any of the batteries I mentioned in my initial response. There are others as well, but those batteries are all definitely good to go. After you get new batteries, either I or another member can give a better explanation of what would be a safe build with an unregulated mod.

Specifically what batteries are you using? Brand and model (for example LG HG2, Samsung 25R, Sony VTC5)?

I use primarily Flavor West and Capella because both companies are local to me and I can get them direct. (Flavor West is more local than Capella, but Capella isn't far from where I work.) The Capella fruit flavors I have used are really good.

You almost have it. You are associating ohms with flavor and watts with vapor. It's like comparing apples with oranges. Both are fruit, but they provide different flavors and different vitamins. Higher resistance (higher ohms) + lower wattage = more flavor (in a VERY general sense. There is MUCH more to it than coil resistance and the power you are using.) Lower resistance (lower ohms) + Higher wattage = more vapor (again, in a VERY general sense. There is more to producing vapor than just plopping in a .15 coil and cranking the watts up to 125.

The Baby Beast and the Big Baby do not come with RBA decks. The Cloud Beast comes with two coils (The large version of the T8 and the large version of the Q4. The new TFV12 Cloud Beast King will be available with two options: The tank and three different factory coils OR the tank and the RBA deck, but it won't be available with both the factory coils and the RBA deck. I'm sure you'll be able to purchase the RBA deck seperately, though.

Never fear, the apparent resident expert is here. (Those are other people's assertions, not mine. I just happen to love the TFV8 line of tanks and have done a lot of research on them). Before I go into detail with an answer to your questions, I'll start by saying that @DWrainbowvaper36basically hit the nail on the head that the biggest differences in coils are airflow. Honestly, the airflow differences between the coils are the biggest differences. Now, the more subtle differences in the coils have to do mostly with the actual number of coils in the assemblies. I'll break it down by the name of each coil for you: T8 coil: This is an octocoil (this means there are 8 distinct coils in the assembly). The T8 is rated at .15 ohms and can handle anywhere from 50W - 110W, depending on how warm or cool you prefer your vapor to be. With the octocoil you are going to get most likely get the most vapor. There is more surface are contacting the cotton and the higher wattage capability of this coil will vaporize more liquid as a result. However, due to the higher wattages necessary to run this coil in an effective range you are going to experience a faster drain on your batteries. T6 coil: This is a sextuple coil (6 distinct coils in the assembly). It is rated at .2 ohms and can handle anywhere from 40W - 130W, depending on how warm or cool you prefer your vapor to be. Contrary to what physics would tell us about the resistance and how many watts should be able to run through it, this coil can actually be run slightly higher than the T8 coils, thus producing a warmer vape. With the sextuple coil you are going to get vapor that is almost but not quite as prevalent as the octocoil. The flavor will be slightly better. The assembly is identical to that of the T8, so airflow is the same. X4 coil: This is a quadruple coil (4 distinct coils in the assembly). It is rated at .15 ohms and can handle anywhere from 30W - 70W, depending on how warm or cool you prefer your vapor. The housing is different than that of the T8/T6 housing and has less restrictive (more) airflow. If you like higher airflow then this particular housing is the way to go. With this coil you will get a nice balance between vapor and flavor, but if you are a mouth to lung vaper then it definitely isn't for you. (In fact, if you are MTL then the baby beast probably isn't for you anyway, although it is possible.) Q2 coil (both options): The Q2 coil is both unique and confusing. It comes is two different resistance variations, a .4 ohm dual coil and a .6 phm dual coil. The .4 ohm version is rated from 40W - 80W while the .6 ohm is rated from 30W - 50W. Both coils use the same housing as the X4 and have a lot of airflow. Flavor is, in my opinion, superior with these coils but vapor production tapers off considerably compared to the T8, T6 and X4. These will also produce a much cooler vape than the others mentioned so far. There are two new drop in coils coming out that will also be confusing, the M8 coils. This is another dual coil that is available in resistances .15 and .25 ohms. I would imagine these are probably going to be rated in the same range as the X4, but I cannot confirm that at this point. From pictures I have seen they also seem to use the same housing as the X4 and Q2 coils, so airflow will be high. RBA deck: The RBA deck for the Baby Beast comes with dual claptons pre-installed. The dual claptons are rated at .35 ohm resistance and can handle anywhere from 30-60 watts. The claptons will help with both vapor and flavor production because of the way they are constructed (more surface area and the "why" a clapton works better than a standard coil is an entirely different topic). After the claptons have run their course you can pretty much build whatever you want on it, which is nice because it means you can use nickel, titanium or stainless steel and use the Baby Beast on a TC mod (unless you have one of the very few mods on the market that will run kanthal in TC mode). To sum all of that information up, higher resistance will mean less vapor, but better flavor. Lower resistance will mean more vapor, but flavor will be sacrificed. However, as someone who has used the Baby Beast extensively, you really can't go wrong as far as flavor is concerned. If you have seen my video review of the tank, they should have called it the "Flavor Beast", because it really packs a punch where flavor is concerned no matter which coil you are using. You will have to make sure the mod you are using will fire down to .15 ohms, but most mods that have been introduced in the last couple of years will fire down that far. With the lower resistance/higher wattage combination you are going to be drawing more amps and the length of time your batteries last before needing to be charged will be less than with the higher resistance/lower wattage. You will also notice much more liquid being consumed with the lower resistance/higher wattage coils than with the higher resistance/lower wattage coils. Add in the fact the Baby Beast is only a 3ml tank and you will be refilling it often, even if you choose to go with the .6 ohm Q2 coil. Hope I cleared things up a little bit and didn't make anything any muddier than it was. Really the choice is going to be based on how much airflow you like, how warm or cool you prefer your vapor and the amount of vapor you want to produce.

@Edna if you're disappointed with it then I'll take it off your hands. But if you're disappointed with it then you're doing something wrong.

I might have The black was already out of stock, so I bought a stainless steel. Didn't check to see if there were more. I promise I only bought one, though.

I have several RDA's in my arsenal and the ones I keep going back to are my Mutation X v3 and v4. They are relatively easy to build on, the airflow options are out of this world for both and either can do single or dual coil setups. The Mutation X v5 looks even easier to build on. The VT store has the v4 and the v5 available right now. $19 for the v4 and only $5 for the v5. Oh @Christopher...methinks the VT store is about to receive an order for a Mutation X v5 from me.

If you're using a PC (vs one of those overpriced Mac's) download a application called 'e-juice me up'. I can find a link and post it if you can't find it, but it isn't hard. It's a great app and comes with a lot of recipes that you can use to "get your feet wet".