Adversarious1

I know there is another fairly recent topic related to cloned items, but I had a brief conversation via Instagram with some folks about clones and I ultimately brought up what I think is a very valid point, so I wanted to have folks look at the topic of clones from a slightly different angle. First, I wholly understand why a person would choose a clone mod or atomizer over an authentic - money. I don't begrudge folks who are trying to do what they can to save money and stay within their budget. The most important thing is that the people who do buy clones are taking steps to quit smoking and in the end, that's really what matters. I do, however, have a huge problem with companies that clone items then try to pass them off as authentic. We've all seen them. Sure, there are companies that freely admit their products are clones, but how many stories have we heard of people buying what they thought was an authentic only to discover later it was a "clone". That isn't cloning, that is counterfeiting. That is theft of someone else's intellectual property. To me, a clone is something copied with the express permission of the creator. For example, my very first PC was a Computerland BC88. This was an IBM compatible "clone" PC. It wasn't the first "clone" PC, nor was it the last, but it was manufactured with permission. Most "clones" on the market are not manufactured with permission...the designs are essentially stolen and the product produced is often passed off as authentic. Personally, I stay away from clones. That is a personal choice by me. There is nothing on the market that I feel I need to have so badly that I feel I need to go out and buy a clone just so I can have one. If I see something I want, I save up for it. Having a brother who is not only a machinist and not only designs a lot of the parts his company manufactures, but he designs the parts that make those parts, I have seen firsthand the frustration companies must go through when they have their designs stolen. Designing a new product takes time, effort and frequently, a lot of trial and error. This is something I understand, which is a large part of the reason I choose to purchase authentics. The way I look at it is I'm supporting the innovators who will be able to create even more innovative products. The cloners will just wait for the innovators to innovate, then steal the designs. Again, just a personal choice, but I'm interested in other points of view.

I agree about strong perfumes and colognes. I find very few things as offensive as someone who feels they need to "bathe" in their perfume or cologne. However, perfumes and colognes don't emit large clouds of vapor and give the appearance of smoking; they only emit (sometimes) unwelcome scents. Whether second hand vape is harmless or not, I believe there is a certain degree of courtesy due to the general public, especially in light of all the bad press vaping gets. It isn't about feeling like a "nutty boy" every time you vape in public, it's about common sense. Huge clouds and a general "I don't give a darn" attitude about public perception will only serve to strengthen the anti-vaping platform.

Oh my gosh...I just had some of this (wife works for BevMo, so I get my hands on a lot of booze ). This was awesome. It tastes exactly like A&W or Dad's root beer. I wanted to go grab some vanilla ice cream and make a root beer float. If you can find it and you like root beer, I give it two thumbs up.

Would that be the model that allows for "indoor" or "outdoor" vaping (convertible), or is it the indoor only model (hardtop)?

Just what I need....another tank to add to my rapidly growing collection. I won't do it. I won't, I won't, I won't

I buy my batteries from one of my local B&M's, so I can't really help with online sources other than to tell you to stay away from eBay and Amazon. Otherwise, Samsung 25R, LG HE4, or the purple E-fest batteries are all great. I'm beginning to lean away from the Sony VTC 4's and 5's, as Sony has publicly stated they are no longer making them. I'm sure there are some authentic one's still floating around though. Buy a minimum of 4 batteries, 6 if you can swing it. You'll want backups and it's nice to be able to carry extra charged batteries with you (in a proper storage box, of course - safety first). The Nitecore i2 two bay charger is a great charger for a low price. Hope the info helps.

Wish I'd seen this sooner. The subtank mini is an awesome tank, but the factory nickel coils leave a lot to be desired. I have repeatedly had dry hits with my first nickel OCC coil in my subtank on my IPV4. This is apparently something many people experience and it's largely due to the size of the juice flow openings on the coil housing. There is a 'fix' I saw on YouTube I'm going to try that only takes about a minute: https://youtu.be/RbXLOkklR1Q What it all comes down to, though, is that there really isn't a "best" tank for the IPV4. The "best" tank is the tank that works best for you in terms of flavor and vapor production. I currently have several tanks that I use regularly. Each one is "better" at something than others, be it better flavor with certain juices or better vapor with certain PG/VG blends. To date, the Arctic is still my favorite all-around tank out of all the tanks I own. Horizon either just released or is getting ready to release ni200 coils for the Arctic, so I'm looking forward to getting my hands on some and checking it out in TC mode. A close 2nd in terms of personal favorites is my recently acquired Silo Beast. The Atlantis coil heads are compatible with the Silo Beast and I have some of the nickel coils on order. I will be able to report back on performance on that particular tank after they arrive.

I'm not too sure about what advice to give on the first issue (not registering kanthal builds) other than gossip/rumors I heard while I was visiting one of my local B&M's the other day. I was talking to one of the guys who works there and he mentioned something similar to what you described. He hasn't heard if it is a widespread issue and he hasn't heard of a "fix" for it yet. But...he did hear speculation that the Snow Wolf is actually a Sigelei "prototype" for their entry into the TC world (essentially developed by Sigelei, then given to Asmodus for distribution as the "Snow Wolf" under Asmodus' name), so if it is indeed a known issue, it will hopefully have a fix soon. The way he explained everything overall made sense, as Asmodus is the largest distributor for Sigelei (and P4Y) in the US. With that out of the way, regarding your "medium size problem" - are you using an RDA? A tank with prebuilt coils? An RBA base for a tank? An RTA? The "symptoms" you explained have me thinking it's one of three possible things: #1 - you could simply have a mod with a defective chip. Like any other consumer product, defects happen. #2 - If you're using a rebuildable (either RDA or RTA) your coil could be just a tad loose. #3 - Also depending on if you're using a rebuildable, you could have a loose post (most likely positive post, as most negative posts are milled into the decks). I had #3 happen to me with my Lemo. Drove me up the wall for well over a week. Couldn't figure out why I could build on RDA's all day long and get consistent results with my coils every single time, but I couldn't built a simple coil for the Lemo.

Welcome to VT, 1ntimid8. You mentioned in your first post that you've tried different air configurations and different coils...were all of these different air configurations and coils also vaped at 80w? The description of your current set-up on your atty sounds like it should be a cloud making machine. Should be about 10 wraps on each coil. Macro coil or micro coil, that should be plenty of surface area. Of the things Earthling mentioned, it sounds like you have the airflow and surface areas covered. Ultimately that leads me to think it's either the wattage or the wicking. One other thing that factors into cloud production but isn't directly related to your setup would be technique: inhalation style and length. Since you're going for clouds, I'm going to assume your technique likely involves lung hits of 3 or more seconds, but I wanted to mention it just in case.

Spent some time watching coil tutorial videos. I'm holding Bushwick solely responsible for this due to his helixed wires from a couple of weeks ago ... Basic single helix coil: twisted 24g Kanthal helixed with two strands of 28g Kanthal. 5 wraps, right at 0.2 ohms, flavor for days and not a bad cloud either.

Thanks for the props guys. Fortunately, painting isn't a new area for me., although usually I'm painting model tanks. The one area I was actually concerned with was the buttons because of the amount handling they will be exposed to. I may go ahead and pull them out and paint them black though.

Welcome to VT.

I scuffed the factory finish with some 0000 steel wool to give the clear acrylic something to "bite". Two coats of the clear orange, two coats of clear acrylic, and a good buffing :)

Picked up a Silo Beast. I'm turning into a tank junkie. Also painted the iPV4. Silver was boring. Now sporting a sweet translucent orange. I also got rid of the mirrored finish, buffed it out and sprayed it the same color.

​I specifically went with the IPV4 for that reason. I wanted to try TC on both tanks and RDA's but also be able to use conventional kanthal coils if I chose to do so. I'm still not 100% sold on the prebuilt nickel coils for TC (Kanger NI200 coils in the subtank mini - but it may be the specific juice) but TC with Ti coils I have built on a couple of RDA's have produced both outstanding flavor and outstanding vapor. Personal I think TC is more than just a gimmick, but it isn't a necessity either. Just like everything else in the vaping world, each person will have their own preferences and own style. What works for me and what I like may or may not be what works for someone else.

Almost ditto on what Bushwick said. I've used the MXv3 and recently bought a MXv4. I tried it first with a standard dual coil build that came in at about .2 ohms on one of my mech mods, but I've primarily been using it with the iPV4 with dual Ti coils and temp control. Absolutely phenomenal vapor production from both builds and the flavor certainly didn't lack either. The juice well is huge on the MXv4 as well. In power mode with my .2 - .25 ohm builds, I typically run my RDA's at about 65 watts. I do the same thing with my Arctic tank. 65 watts just seems to be my sweet spot. In temp control on the iPV4 I have been running between 480 and 510 degrees F. Like Bushwick, I don't know anything about the maze, but I would also recommend the MXv4. In fact, I'm probably going to buy a second in a different color just so I can have one with the Ti coils and one with kanthal coils ready to go.

I only own two mech mods but I have used what seems like a ton of them. I own an aluminum body Limitless and a Hyon, and I use both regularly. I've also used Mutation X, Tugboat, Dotmod, SMPL, Metal Moose and Manhattan mods to name a few. The Limitless and the Hyon are two very different mods with two very different price points and I use them in slightly different manners. I use the limitless exclusively with RDAs as it has a hybrid topcap and I simply don't want to take any chances with my tanks even though I know perfectly well some of my tanks will work just fine with it. Better safe than sorry, in my opinion. When I use the Limitless, I also tend to keep my builds around .5 ohm, no matter what RDA I'm using. .5 ohm just seems to be the sweet spot for me with that particular mod. It also tends to be my "kick back in the mancave and vape while I enjoy a beer" mod of choice. The Hyon I use primarily with RDAs, but I will also occasionally use tanks with it. I carry it and use tanks when I need something a little easier to stick in a pocket than one of my regulated box mods. With RDAs, I build down to around .2 ohms and use high VG juices with it. Basically, when I'm dripping, my Hyon is my "cloud chasing" mod of choice. In a nutshell, I would recommend any of the mech mods I have used or own. I haven't been disappointed in any of them. The Limitless cost me around $90 (for the aluminum one; they also make a brass and a copper version, each priced a little higher; around $120 for the brass and around $150 for the copper) and it has interchangeable sleeves so you can customize it. I have 2 sleeves with several more being machined specifically for me. The Hyon cost quite a bit more; about $250 out the door after taxes. They have models priced anywhere from $200 up to $280. The prices are all based on the finish, but they are also worth every penny in my opinion. Basically, I guess it would come down to your personal preferences as far as look, style, quality and what you're willing to spend. For the money, the Mutation X mods and the SMPL mods are decent little mods at around $40-$50, the Tugboats are great at around $100, the Metal Moose mods are around $150-$175 and the Dotmods and the Hyons are a bit higher at around $200-$300, depending on finish.

Welcome to VT

Welcome to VT

Looks pretty sweet, but I think I'll wait until some more info about them is released. I was severely disappointed in the quality of the KBOX. Love the subtanks though. I certainly wouldn't mind another subtank in my arsenal.

Getting ready for a business trip to Chicago next week, so I wanted to make extra sure I'm prepared... ipv4 Mutation X v4 2 LG HE4 18650's Battery case Rugged Vape Cloud Case .5 mm Ti wire 30ml bottle of Lemon Law by Vape Aura (my ADV) and a boatload of Japanese cotton. Okay, maybe not a boatload of Japanese cotton, but enough that I'm good on cotton for a while.

Welcome to VT.

Welcome to VT.

As Rixter already mentioned, Kanger makes nickel coils for the sub tank "family", plus I think I read (or saw a video) that mentioned Aspire is making or will be making nickel coils for the Atlantis tanks. I'm sure we are about to see the market flooded with more nickel coil tanks in the near future and I will likely end up being the proud owner of several more tanks...lol.