vaping_jake

so the 100 is upgradeable? I was never clear on what the plus meant. Nice buy there..

100% agree with Compenstine....... cheap "power sources" and explosion should be in the same sentence.

Rixter thanks for the video. I wish i could hear what he says, he sounds informative. Maybe my next purchase should not be vaping gear but a hearing aid as my wife keeps yelling at me and my responce to her is what did you say? ;-)

i am not an expert in temperature control but my basic understanding so far is that nickel wire has properties that its resistance changes with heat. The chip continuously monitors the resistance of the coil and determines the temperature based on on that. If you use Kanthal, wire temperature control wont work since the resistance is constant. So since the unit wont let the coil ever get hot enough, in theory you should never burn your cotton. As your wic holds less juic, the heat rises quicker and thus the unit stops current flow. Formaldehyde and acetaldehyde are believed to be by products when PG|VG break down from high temperatures, again in theory temperature control should eliminate this. As your wic dries up the pg/vg left over/residue will burn at higher temperatures if the temperatures are high enough you get the unwanted byproducts. My question is what is the magic temperature you should avoid. I cant seem to find any research paper done with a qualified testing procedure. Sorry if i went off track, perhaps i should have answered this prior to my scotch.

lol use the springs for coils and gt some good old r38 insulation for wicing. probably still much healthier than analogs

when i started utilizing my mech mods at 25w or more i had ot drop my nic level. It'e not the tanks but the power your using on them. i quickly went from 18 mg to below 10mg. You could still do 50/50 unless your seeking more vape then up your vg.

definitely interesting, i wasnt crazy about the blue but the grey and black arent so bad

i like kanger quality, but i have to say that for me the kbox just falls short ( i have seen its on sale at under 25 bucks) I personally went with and am happy with the IPV mini 30w. I am debating on an all black ipv mini 2 70w unit.

Welcome FXRich, experimentation is only a sign of evolution

good choice, now you have to choose what color bands you want...jk

In the past I started with and always recommended the Kanger EVOD2. Present day, I am not sure if i totally agree with the pen style start up kit anymore. Way to many products out now such as istick 30w etc etc. I do agree with going to a B&M, touching and feeling units till u get one that one that feels comfortable. Also he said he didn't want to upgrade anytime soon; i am the same way i like t o grow into something versus out growing something quickly. Regulated units have some safety built in. A subtank mininano or a similar product allows one different coil setup options. Also i have noticed that B&Ms are carrying more "premium" juices that are higher VG ie 60/40 70/30 juices, its getting harder to find 50/50 unless you get their shop brews. IMHO those require a bit more power to enjoy ie >15w. here is a setup i would consider extremely safe and one can get for 80-90 bucks(probable cheaper now), then add another 30 for a few bottles of juice

ya i agree NICE!!!!

or used it to fend off an attacker.....

i have both the subtank mini and the artic tank. I love them both. The artic does have a a 0.2 coil and is stated to go up to 80 watts. The subtank claims 30w max. The arctic is a bit of a pita to fill if you have a eye dropper and you really cant pour your liquid in the tank. I use unicorn bottles and they seem to work perfect. So i give easy fill to the subtank. In terms of airflow, the arctic has a lot more air flow. The arctic doesn't have the bands the sub uses. Sometimes the bands are a nuisance however i like the look they give the subtank. I believe the arctic is cheaper; its around 35, i am not sure what the subtank mini is going for at the moment. The subtank does come with an rta and the artic does not. If you like to build your own coil that might something you would enjoy. The subtank just released different color bands, i like that you can change up the look for about 3 bucks. Now on rare occasion the subtank might leak a small amount, to this date the arctic has not leaked at all.

Welcome aboard. Feel free to ask, you will have mature knowledgeable folks answering your questions.

NO no not that those kennedys, the Kennedy RDA on top of a Sigelie 150w that is wrapped in the Miss America wrap by Jwraps

The freak show, kennedy and other rda with bottom air chambers will leak if you drip over the coil that sits right over the air chamber. The end of the wiq that is closest to the air chamber should be routed between the ground post and positive post to the opposite juice well. You should then drip your juice at the bottom of the coil or the end that is farthest from the air chamber.

I am extremely enjoying the KENNEDY RDA in 22mm and in 25 mm i like the brass monkee RDA. I am looking forward to seeing the Twisted messes rda in action, its up for pre-order now. An rda designed by a innovator in the coil world. TWISTED MESSES RDA

ya Mplough that is where the flavor is truly developed, and also that special character one cant reproduce in a lab. lol

Actually with other options perhaps the authentic mech mods will be priced more reasonably and more people will purchase them.

i would pass on it

Totally agree with Earthling!!! Another thing to watch out for on RDAs with double center or block posts, the lead of one coil can short out the coil on the opposite side.

I just sample the honeydoo from KILO an its absolutely amazing. I think its called honeydew, i dont have the bottles i filled up my unicorn tube.

Nice job, love the penny inserts. Here is my opinion on it. Maybe use older penny with copper in it. I bet even a silver dollar mod would look awesome. I agree with Tam, a bit smoother looking would be nice. Is the center pin spring loaded?

very clean, like it