Squid

I've got 4 or 5 subtank minis and a plus, if you're looking for something with more airflow than the nautilus that has coils available around 1.2ohms then it's not a bad idea. Another plus is that 3 of the minis came with the new version of the RTA deck, have yet to try it, but several members here have reported they are good.

Chris, I don't know a whole lot about the coding, but I admin (basically a glorified Mod I don't do site changes with out consulting the site owner.) a R/C truck forum that uses PHP software, basically a dinosaur in the terms of site software from what I understand, and the splitting works just like you described. I can't tell you the number of times that function has come in handy.

Kanger subtank?

The test post is not showing either....

The Vape lounge is currently showing an unread topic from Adversarious1 titled "Marines". When I open the Lounge, no topic tilted Marines there. I tried to post screen shots, but got a posting error.

Most USB ports built into cars are only .5 amp in my experience. When I was a traveling service tech my work truck only had 1 USB port and 1 12v socket. I got a 12V spliter that ft in the cup holder, and a Stallion 4 port USB adapter. The USB adapter puts out 2.1 amps per port, unlike most multiple port adapters that will pout out 2 amps total. I still use the USB adapter in my personal truck. Charges 3 phones and leaves a port open to charge the Wife's iStick or run my nitecore UM-20 for my 18650s.

I have tried Ni200 coils, and Ti coils in tanks on my IPV4s. Using the start low and work up method, I did have some success with each. That is until I changed coils. No 2 coils of the same material acted any where near the same from coil to coil. Kanthal coils are slightly different coil to coil, but in a range of a watt or 2. With the Ni200 and Ti it was plus or minus 200 degrees from coil to coil. And yes I did lock in each new coil at room temp before firing. I have 2 boxes of Ni200 coils for subtanks in my drawer that I will probably never use. I do have a roll of SS 316L, build decks for the subtank and a new mod that does TC with SS, I might try it, but the SS is supposed to work great in Watt mode so I may just stick with that. I don't have any drippers, and really have no interest, but I see your point about TC being helpful with them.

Unless there has been an update on the IPV4S since I bought mine, it only supports Ni coils for TC.

I tried TC, but really didn't notice a difference from VV/VW once they are set right for the tank/coil/juice combo. IMHO TC is ok, but not needed if you understand how to set your mod. We all have been there, bump up from low until a slight burnt taste then back off a bit. One thing I did like about TC was when chain vaping you don't get the occasional dry hit. Only time I get those any more is using 70VG or higher juices in the subtanks, as the thicker juices don't wick as well as a 50/50 juice. I am a working stiff relegated by works rules to only vape on breaks. And yes if you up the watts, and have a TC mod you can see the display on while vaping, you will see the watts drop when you hit the temp limit. Basically depending on the TC mod you are using setting the watts will only change the ramp up time. Your Istick 40 can only set the temp in TC mode, I have one, I also have an IPV4s. The 4s is way better in TC than the Istick 40 IMO. That being said, when at work I use a Nautilus mini tank on a VV/VW mod with 50/50 juice, just so I don't produce a ton of vapor, because I break the rules a bit. I find a nice quiet corner and vape indoors away from the smokers area where I am supposed to vape (Never realized how much cigs stink until I started vaping). I currently have a Smoant Knight, a Kangside luxury box and an Athena envy Plus for work. I also have a VTR, but it's on the fritz and haven't had time to T/S the prob. They are compact and easy to slide in my pocket. I recently started using a subtank mini in the Envy with a 1.2 ohm coil and the 50/50 juice, and it is working well. I also have a Tesla Stealth, that is basically an old e-go batt in another form factor. I only got it because of the submerged tank design and the description said "100 watts". It's limited to 100 watts and not adjustable at all. When I don't have to worry about some clouds I like the subtank with a .5 ohm coil (I have 5 minis and a Plus) and 60vg/40vg to 70/30 juice, good balance of flavor and clouds. Or my favorite, except for the fact it's a juice hog, my Freemax Starre with a .25 ohm coil and the thicker juices, awesome flavor and good clouds for the visual "need" I seem to have left over from smoking. I would try one of the "Beasts", but burning through the juice like has been reported, I would go broke. As it has been said many times by many members here, "What works for one person may not work for you." I say if the Nautilus is keeping you off cigs and happy stick with it. If you want some bigger clouds, time to look for another tank, the nautilus is a great tank for flavor, but lacks in cloud production. I am sure there will be others with tank recommendations.

You have a few options for settings. The ss coil can be run in wattage or TC mode. The Ni200 coil can only be run in TC mode on the Ni setting. As far as wattage/ temp settings, your best bet is to start low and slowly increase either the wattage or the temp (if in TC mode) until you get the vape you want. The settings can also depend on the juice you are using. High PG or nic will usually have you at a lower wattage setting that a higher VG juice, or one with less nic. For the ss coil, maybe start around 10 watts in wattage mode, and slowly work your way up. if you get a harsh/burnt taste back off .5 watts or so and you have found the "magic spot" for that coil/juice combo.

Chris, Maybe a sample pack of the 6 VT flavors, 5-10ml bottles? $30ish at 5ml bottles, maybe $50ish for 10ml? (kind of guessing on the pricing) I have ordered juices based on recommendations that turned out not so great and some that I instantly loved, but the ones that I really didn't like seemed like a waste. There were more dislikes than likes. I don't mind paying a bit of a premium for good juice if I know I like it. I would rather spend $5 on a 5ml sample bottle and find out I don't like it than $15 on 30ml and not like it. Not sure how the deeming Regs affect the bottle sizes. And yes bigger bottles, 120 or 250ml would be great for sales IMO especially since the TFV8 seems to be a big hit, and it's a juice hog from what I have read. More product with less packaging should allow for some volume discount in price too. And IMHO, ditch the dropper bottles for the VT brand, or at least offer a choice. I am sure the droppers are great for those that drip, but filling a tank like the Starre (not easy to fill with the dropper due to design), or a subtank plus (huge volume taking many "dip into bottle, squeeze, release, pull out of bottle, squeeze into tank) cycles is, for a lack of better wording, time consuming and can be messy. I would much rather the standard plastic bottles with the little pressed in tips. Or the york caps on the bigger bottles.

Local B&M is $5.99 for 10ml or 3 for $15.99 of 50/50 juice that they white label. The juice they mix on site is $15.99 for 30ml or 3 for $45.00. 70vg/30pg. I use both types. My favorite juices, I can't get any more, were around $42.00 for 120ml depending on the mix. Plus around $6.00 shipping per order. I usually ordered 4 to 6 bottles at a time.

Glad to know he is OK. Would love to place a 2 liter order before he shuts down totally. My DIY can't compare to his wizardry.

I sent Comp an email as I need more juice, down to my last 2 or 3 tank fulls of Hydrabones. I was going to order, but saw the notice on the site that he was done after 08-08-16, haven't heard back....

VTR, not MVP. Don't drink and post folks.

At work I use a nautilus mini on a regulated mod with a submerged design, ala the MVP. I have a MVP that is currently down, it's in my drawer to fix, a Kangside Luxury box and a Smoant Knight. I love the submerged tank design for work because I can drop it in any pocket on me and not worry about breaking the tank. (Anyone know of other mods like this? I want a few spares in case the deeming regs stick around.) In the truck I have a Istick 50 with a subtank plus. 5 other subtanks that get used in a not so regular fashion on either my Tesla Stealth or the Istick. I also have a Freemax Starre that I love running a .25ohm coil in on my IPV4s that only gets used if I am in the garage or outdoors as it will fog the entire house up if I try to use it indoors. I carry 2 spare 18650s in the outer pocket of my lunch box to work (In a protective case), a nitecore ui20 in my truck just incase and atleast 1 30ml bottle of juice for the subtanks and a couple 10ml bottles of juice for the Naut Mini also in the lunch box. I have 2 sets of married cells for the IPV4s, 6 18650s for the others in rotation and have a LucV4 to charge at home. For backups I have 2 subboxes, a Dopovo-65 and a couple Ego batts that I use once a month or so to make sure they still work.

Local B&M has a similar sign posted on every counter and wall, minus the listing of "prohibited phrases".

In regards to the question "why get a 70 watt when 160 or 200 is available?" I have been vaping for 6 years, and don't ever need that much power. I use either subtanks or a nautilus mini. I have a Starre tank paired to my IPV4s and have rarely gone above 50watts with it. The higher powered mods do have dual batteies, and will last longer between charges. But in my preference swapping out a battery sooner is better than spending more on a high powered mod. For me a 200 watt mod would be like having a Porche to commute 5 miles on city streets to work. No offense to those that like the high powered mods, just putting in my 2 cents.

Good to know. I will pass this info on to the local B&M. If I understand this correctly they can open up and reassemble a display tank from the case to demonstrate as long as the tank does not belong to a customer. I seem to be one of the few that has access to a B&M that hires sales people and trains them in customer service. I have personally seen them (before 08-08-16) spend half an hour with someone that bought a mod and tank showing them every step of taking it apart to clean and putting it back together and filling.

Ever find a replacement? I just had the same issue with my subtank plus. Going to fill it and before I knew it the little ball tink tink tinked itself across the garage floor and into the unknown. Tried the last known area with a magnet out of a hard drive with no success.

If I read this correctly, we should be able to buy supplies until December with no issues?

Let me know what you think, I am curious. My very recent experiences are mixed. I started with a 1.5ohm coil in a subtank mini, but that didn't give me what I wanted. I put a .5ohm coil (after using for a bit) in and was really happy until I recharged the stealth. With a full charge I very soon got a slight burnt taste (5-10 hits). Pretty much the same results from every nonregulated (vv/vw) box/batt I have tried. I am thinking that a coil with .7ohm-1ohm or so may be the sweet spot, but I am not yet making my own coils. I really have to make the time to build a few in the RBA for the subtank and give it a try. My results were with a couple of Comps flavors at 40pg/60vg for comparison. I really like the form factor, and if it was adjustable (vv/vw) I would order several more, even though I prefer a replaceable battery.

Being able to put it in my pocket is the reason I am always on the lookout for box mods like the Stealth, if it was vv/vw I would end up like Tam is with the istick 50 and have 5 or 10 of them. I can drop it in my work shirt pocket and button the flap, or put it in the back pocket of my pants. I loved my VTR, but it can't be used with many tanks and they are too expensive for what they are to replace it (Plus it's a lot on the heavy side.). I have a Kangside Luxury box, that I got on sale somewhere, went to buy another and apparently they are discontinued. I have a Smoant Knight I haven't yet opened as well. I like the recessed tank, I actually think they are better that the pen types for putting in your pocket. I have pulled apart many eGo-Ts from having them in my pocket, probably from the flexing as I move, and even broke a couple CE4 tanks in my pocket.

It's not round, but I just got a Tesla Stealth. The thing is tiny, but holds a subtank mini. About the same width as a istick 50, but slightly thicker, and the only part that is taller than a 30ml plastic bottle of juice is the driptip. I didn't notice when I ordered it, that it isn't vw/vv, so that is the only thing I don't like about it. Last I saw Gearbest is selling them for $27 or so with out a tank.

Hydrabones, it's my not at work go to.