Mplough

I feel your pain on the eGo, the Delta2 would benefit from temp control, the window is almost nonexistent. I had luck on the Sub RBA but the airflow was so tight I found myself building chimney coils to open it up. Again, my Aqua V2 is such a good tank I'm very reluctant to try anything else (as far as tanks go). Great cloud and flavor. Since learning how to properly wick it I have yet to dry hit for the exception of accidentally jacking the wattage way up

Picked up an authentic Hana and a Lotus LE80 (my now 'favorite' Mod.....this month)

Yep and I ran my Hana with Nickel set at 450 degrees, display goes berserk when the button is fired changing the voltage and wattage. Changed back to kanthal and a constant setting and I see no difference. I'm not saying you're wrong or anyone else for that matter, I just don't see what the big deal is, at least since I learned that all my dry hit problems were from poor wicking, another reason why I dumped my Subtanks. I don't know if Kanger had a bad batch of 0.5 heads that they had in circulation for over a freakin month or what but there were a lot a pissed off people because of it. If you enjoy it that's all that matters. Everyone used to crap on Windows Millennium but I never had a problem with it

All I can say is I've had SEVERAL tell me the same thing. Different shops, different areas between 3 states.

​I never said it didn't work as advertised otherwise I would have named the thread "Temp control, necessity or lie". A gimmick isn't a lie it's something stated to separate your product regardless of its real world usefulness. Back in the 70's you used to see advertisements for "made with space age polymers", were they? Yes, was it relevant? Usually not, did it make people by it, absolutely. I have a Hana DNA40 with temp control. The owner at my favorite vape shop told me not to buy it for the temp control and I didn't. I have always wanted an authentic Hana and he had them on sale. I tried it with Nickel wire, wasn't a game changer for me, back to Kanthal and Nichrome. Right now I'm hard pressed to find a better experience (flavor wise) no matter what Mod I'm using other than my modded Aqua V2, running Kanthal. I have even changed a few minds when people try it using the exact same eliquid.

​Well That's what I thought however, I have had several well versed vendors tell me that's not really what it does. So needless to say I'm miffed by the hype, the reality, the perception and the gray area that is 'temperature control'. At this point I think it might just be a passing thing we'll all be talking about in a year, "Hey remember when all the rage was temperature control". I tried it, I don't see the big deal, moving on

I live in Georgia, so far the only law is over 18. I am so sick of politicians and big tobacco. If big tobacco had a brain they would embrace vaping and start to assist in responsible eliquid manufacturing. There does need to be some sort of regulation for safety but the Fed's answer to everything is tax, tax, tax. ​

Somehow I missed this thread. Here is what I posted on a new thread: "So everyone manufacturer seems to be pushing temp control. The term is a little misleading. As I understand it you have to use Nickle wire and cotton. The premise is that at the moment you start to dry out and the cotton exceeds the combustible limit when running it shuts off your Mod. Is this really necessary? To me it sounds like the safety on a sidearm. My finger is the safety. It's a simple concept to let go of the button when you get a dry hit. Temp control sounds cool and then there is also 'temp control' that shuts your Mod off when the Box itself exceeds a 'safe' threshold not to be confused with temperature control of the tank/RDA coil. I purchased a Hana DNA40 yesterday. It came with Nickle wire, at 16 wraps I metered out at 0.16 Ohms. That is way to freakin low for me, 2 coils would have been 0.08 and I'm not building that low. Kanger has subohm Nickle heads but personally I just don't see the point." Now, I have had 4 guys at 4 different shops tell me you can set the "temp control" at whatever you want it will ONLY work with Nickle wire.

So everyone manufacturer seems to be pushing temp control. The term is a little misleading. As I understand it you have to use Nickle wire and cotton. The premise is that at the moment you start to dry out and the cotton exceeds the combustible limit when running it shuts off your Mod. Is this really necessary? To me it sounds like the safety on a sidearm. My finger is the safety. It's a simple concept to let go of the button when you get a dry hit. Temp control sounds cool and then there is also 'temp control' that shuts your Mod off when the Box itself exceeds a 'safe' threshold not to be confused with temperature control of the tank/RDA coil. I purchased a Hana DNA40 yesterday. It came with Nickle wire, at 16 wraps I metered out at 0.16 Ohms. That is way to freakin low for me, 2 coils would have been 0.08 and I'm not building that low. Kanger has subohm Nickle heads but personally I just don't see the point.

Well I started building, it was inevitable I guess . When I'm doing the cloud thing I'm dripping straight VG. For everything else it's 3mg, 2 or 0.

​Have you seen some of the State sponsored legislation regarding vaping? OMG! I think it's Washington or Utah that is proposing a 65% tax on all vape related items....WHAT! I guess the message is, "Keep smoking, our budget depends on it".

​Second the Arctic. It's a total juice hog but worth it IMO. I have now ditched all my Kanger Sub's and mini's. Solid performance and the coils ( 0.2 ) are lasting me 3 weeks or longer. The last few boxes of Subtank coils were burning out after 3-4 days running the 0.5's at 25ish watts.

My complaint is the threading on the battery cover. I know others with the same Mod and they all complain that they cross thread easily.

​Gracias!

Picked up a troll RDA for $29 and my Simple Mod clone ($16 eBay) came in. Did a patina, striped the bottom and 4 coats a matte clear.

Wow that is a politically incorrect and sexist mod you have....I dig it

Marriage is great, you can sex whenever you SHE wants to lol

She's already hip to the Rufi trick

Are you recoiling them or just rewicking

Hey Comp, how about some juice with Spanish Fly in it so I can slip it to my wife in her vape

You got it I have about 10 or so.

Yeah be prepared to start buying more juice with that Arctic tank, it's a juice hog; especially with that 0.2 coil. I love mine.

Thanks buddy. I may go dumpster diving tomorrow. I just threw out a bunch of Sub Tank OCC heads, I wonder if the O-ring from those will work. I figured I'd drop them an email. Considering how much they charge for their drip tips I thought they should know that the O-ring's suck. I'm using various juices and it has done them on all of them, boooo!

yeah....tried that. These things are barely larger than dental floss.

So I have 4 Science of Vaping drip tips and EVERY FREAKIN ONE OF THEM have bloated O-rings. I'm talking after removing the drip tip the first time they are swollen and the tips won't back in. These have got to have the smallest rings of any drip tip because no vape shop in 3 cities of me have any that size. SoV's website doesn't have them so I sent them an email, we'll see what happens. Anyone have suggestions?