Mr Smith

I have two of them now Definitely go with the stainless steel model if you are looking to buy one. as for batteries I run two different configs and 3 different batteries. I have a pair of ICR 18350 900 mAh batteries I run stacked in it (one of them came with them) I also run a IMR 18650 from AW @ 2000mAh, and my most recent battery purchase was a IMR 18650 orbtronic 2900mAh battery. all of the batteries work great. the stacked pair fires the coil the absolute fastest, but the 2900mAh battery lasts the longest. my newest vamo still accepts flat top 18650's but that will change after a while... I highly recommend getting button top batteries for them for the 18650's because the pin in the top will eventuall move upwards just enough that a flat top 18650 will no longer work. button top 18650's will always work though.

I'm collecting Vamo's lol. got two of them now and bought one for the GF. Kayfun's are amazing absolutely loving my most recent build on it. 32g kanthal with 7.5 wraps @ 2mm size for a 1.6ohm coil. fires instantly Running some "miss white" by alpha vape in there right now and it is delicious! I could barely taste miss white from aspire BDC tanks but could barely taste a hint of it from them...So I decided to give it a go with the KFL+ and see if it would bring out the taste and it definitely did!

My pair of stainless steel Vamo v5s I ordered about a month ago finally came in! Got them on a group buy from focalecig for $19.90/ea Shipped pretty quick coming from China, but there was lead time due to having to wait for the group buy to end, and then for the vendor to receive their shipment from the manufacturer before they could then ship it out to the end users. Right about 6 business days to make it through customs twice and cross the pacific. not bad!

My most recent build is my personal best yet I run 32g 7.5 wraps 2mm size. comes out to 1.6ohm. (I wrap around a 5/64" drill bit. you can pick one up for $3 at the hardware store) and what I have learned with cotton...less is more... don't try and stuff a bunch of cotton in there. wicks slower. make it a very loose fit and fluff out the ends by the juice ramps. also try to keep your coil as close and as centered as possible over the air intake hole for best vapor results. I get more than enough vapor production off of my 32g wire. and it has the added bennefit of instant vapor production the moment you push the button. no waiting for it to heat up... the thinner the wire the faster it gets hot as it is less material to heat. heating larger diameter objects takes longer than heating smaller diameter objects. Just a little food for thought. my 1.6ohm coil fires 3x faster than my buddies 28g .8ohm coil...

my latest coil... just a simple one, but all I was going for was instant vapor production. not cloud chacing. just didn't like having to wait for my vapor to be produced lol.. Guy at the vape shop couldn't wrap his head around the concept I had and kept trying to talk me out of buying 32g wire saying oh 28g is the best blah blah blah 32g sucks blah blah lol... latest build is 7.5 wraps of 32g @ 2mm size, 1.6ohm. that wick wasn't the final wick... I was taste testing about 5 different juices and using my kayfun like a dripper to figure out which juice I wanted to comit the freshly cleaned tank to... so I went through 5 scrap pieces of cottom as wicks figuring out which flavor was going in the tank, then made my final slightly longer wick. Thing works exactly like I thought it would. instant vapor production the moment I push the button. absolutely no delay love it Dude kept saying oh you should sub ohm and use mechanical....pssssh My buddy has the same kayfun, built a subohmed 28g coil and mine fired over 3x as fast every time lol. smaller wire may be more resistance, but smaller wire also heats quicker than larger wire. also cools quicker so it doesn't make the whole tank hot after taking a few vapes in a row vs the larger wire... I've ran both 26g and 28g in this tank and by far like my 32g build the best.

my KFL+ clone has an adjustable philips screw as the center pin.

sure, you can always media blast it and paint it, but I would be careful media blasting around the buttons and screen... I know my blaster would eat that screen away in a second and get glass bead all over inside the unit around the button holes. I got the stainless one. Stainless is going to last longer anyway.

Primary setup: KFL+ clone with taifun drip tip and Vamo V5 coil/wick: 28g kanthal 9.5 wraps x 2mm size (1.2ohm) cotton wick

vision chargers wont help. it's not a charger issue. it's a vision spinner II issue. Mine does the same thing and it's not a clone or a knockoff. it's the real deal. just need to unhook and rehook the charger to keep it charging all the way. Annoying quirk for such a great device.

So far this has to be the best juice I have tasted! Can't get enough of it and have my KayFun Lite Plus constantly loaded with it. It is a honeydew, canteloupe, and slight hint of menthol flavor mix. very tasty! This is actually the one flavor of juice that is ALWAYS sold out at my local vape shop. the guys in there love it and get tons of customers to try it and the customers then love it and buy it all... seriously every nicotine level other than 0 is constantly sold out. The stuff is that good

I have had a couple of these tanks and still use them regularly, but I have always found the airflow to be too tight and it has often been the cause of flooding with these tanks. So I took it upon myself to improve this tank Sorry I didn't get any pictures, but the concept is simple enough. I took my 5/64" drill bit that I use for building coils for my KFL+ and drilled out one of the two air holes in the base of each tank. just by enlarging one of the airholes it has drastically improved the draw and performance of the tank! no longer feels like trying to smoke a cigarette that was packed/rolled waaaaay too tight, and it seems more resistant to flooding. I have only had them modded for a couple days now, so by about a week or so I should know for sure if it completely solves any flooding issues with the tanks since I don't use them near as often as I used to now that I have a KFL+ lol. But I do still like these tanks and in fact they were the tanks that originally got me to quit smoking! So for any of you that have one of these tanks but don't like the airflow... just drill one of the air holes out!

she asked for pros and cons... kayfun lite plus: pros: RBA! easy to put together, works great, delivers great flavor, has options of being full SS tank, or 2/3rds SS 1/3rd clear tank, or 100% clear tank, lots of clones means plenty of replacement parts around and cheaper! looks sexy My particular clone came with all tank options I listed, a screw driver keychain that has both standard and philips, and a fancy jewelry box type case with foam cutouts for the various parts, and an extra set of o-rings for the tank and an extra fill hole screw. cons: fill hole in the bottom is tiny! (seriously that thing drives me nuts and I had to get a fill bottle because the eye droppers make a mess as they don't fit in the fill hole!) have to empty the tank to replace a wick or coil. (easiest way to do this if you are having flooding or wicking problems is to take out the fill screw and position it over an empty juice bottle, then place a finger over the air hole and gently blow through your drip tip which will force juice out of the fill hole.) the drip tip it comes with kinda sucks. but it is a standard 510 so any 510 drip tip should work. I personally use a taifun drip tip in mine. taifun gt: pros: RBA! duh! lol can fix wicking or coil issues without dumping out the tank first. great flavor, awesome drip tip! (seriously it's my favorite drip tip i've come across! fits very snug in other 510 tanks like my KFL+) easy to fill with juice. cons: needs a "flavor wick" on top of your coil and main wick, or extra wicking material shoved into the ends to prevent flooding due to the large gaps on the sides. uses up more wicking material than a KFL. not as many tank options as a KFL. I have never used a taifun gt, but I have seen more than enough reviews on them and know people that have them. I do have the taifun drip tip though as I traded an ijust tank for a iclear x.i tank with the owner of vape-o-rama and the iclear x.i tank had the taifun drip tip on it. it has been my favorite drip tip so far. The tip that came on my KFL+ was sloppy fit and whistles when you draw air through it which is annoying. I could drill it out to fix that, but that doesn't cure the sloppy fit. Mine is a clone though so maybe other clones don't have that issue?

you can always get closer to 1ohm. I run 9.5 wraps around a 5/64ths drill bit with 28g kanthal wire. should come out between 1.2 and 1.3 ohms. hit that with 9.5-11.5watts and you should have decent clouds and taste with a cotton wick in the KFL

No, I soak it first and then stick it to the sides before I screw the bottom half in place... The juice helps hold it in place so the threads don't run over it.

may also help to not draw as hard on it. draw a little slower. sometimes if you draw too hard on it, you will pull juice in faster than you can burn it. another issue is you can draw hard enough to pull the wick away from the feed holes in the coil head causing it to let juice through without anything to control the flow. That is the biggest problem with replaceable bottom coil units. I clear x.i has the wicks exposed so those you can fix if they start having flooding issues. but not having wicks exposed means you just have to replace the ocil head when it starts flooding like that. One of the many reasons I switched to an RBA. now when I have wicking problems I just adjust the wick, or replace the wick only, and if the coil ever burns out, I make a new one

Give it a little time and definitely try different flavors... I too started on a tobaccoish flavor and after two weeks and a better device, I can't stand the taste of tobacco anymore because my sense of taste and smell came back. and I was still smoking between vaping and it got to the point that cigarettes tasted like *** to me and I found myself not wanting to finish or smoke another cigarette. my tastes changed after that and I went for more of a fruity/desert like flavor and love it! Right now I'm really liking "royal flush" by GQ Liquids. yum!

does it not use a screw in the center? I have a clone and it uses a screw as the center pin to allow it to be adjusted up or down in height. Never had that issue. a file to debur if there are sharp edges wont hurt anything..

Welcome and thank you for your service!

I can see how it could be discouraging as when I went cowboy at building my first coil I made a mess and it wasn't working right and I really didn't know WTF I was doing. I also have kinda shaky hands so I feel your pain there. That said: once I figured out what I was doing, building the coil was a sinch. You first need the proper tools for the job and the proper wire and object to wrap with. I can give you a brief text tutorial of building a coil here... what you will need: 28g kanthal wire 5/64" drill bit (they cost $3 at the hardware store, go get one!) a butane or propane torch. (I use a butane pen torch) 1 pair of wire cutters 1 pair of tweezers or needle nose pliers napkins and lots of them...or paper towels.. juice is messy! Build the coil: take about a 6" lengh of wire and cut it off the spool. either hold the wire in your hand or with the needle nose if you feel safer doing that (the wire cools rapidly and doesn't transfer heat down the wire) and torch the entire length of wire. You want it to glow orange for a second or so at all points. We basically do this to make the wire easier to work with and less springy so it holds its shape better. Flip the wire and do the other end you were holding so it gets heated to glowing orange at all points. cooling should only take seconds.. now take the drill bit and hold it in one hand with the smooth end facing outwards and hold down about an inch of the wire with your thumb to the drill bit and using your other hand begin to wrap the wire around the drill bit trying to keep the wire wraps as close as possible to eachother. wrap it 9 times and then give it an extra 1/2 wrap to make each end of the wire facing opposite of each other. Now that it is wrapped, gently slide the coil off of the bit and then gently squeeze the coil together with your tweezers or pliers so all wraps are touching and even, and then torch it for about 10 seconds evenly heating the entire coil so it all glows orange. now let it cool for about 10 more seconds while still holding gentle pressure against the coil. At this point you should be able to let off pressure and the coil should hold its shape. If it does not, repeat the previous step until it does. Now that it is holding a nice clean shape you will put the drill bit back through the coil so it maintains its shape while we attach it to the deck of the kayfun and position it. place it on the deck and wrap one lead around the screw and tighten it down. now wrap the second lead around the other screw and tighten it down as well. now use the bit and position the coil where you want it which is ideally very close to the airhole on the deck and centered over the airhole on the deck without actually touching the deck.. once it is in place there, trim or break off the excess wire and you should have a nice clean coil. At this point you can remove the drill bit and test your coil by either reading resistance or seeing if your device can fire it. This coil should come out to about 1.2-1.3ohms. Now take a cotton ball and tear off a small length of it. roll it up in the shape of a joint and see if it will begin to fit through your coil. If not unroll it and tear off more cotton from the piece you are working with and recheck it. Just roll it like dough in your hand till it fits through. it should pull through with ease but still be touching the coil without feeling like it is going to tug on the coil. once you get to that point where it is a little resistance in the pull but not over snug or tight, then bend each end down to the deck for a quick rough measurement and trim the cotton so it will touch the bottom of the deck and a tiny extra... once trimmed, fluff out the ends of the cotton so they are no longer rolled up. Should look something like this: now take your juice and wet the cotton with it getting it nice and saturated with juice and put a little bit on the top of the coil as well. top and bottom of the wick... That prime of the wick is going to do two things for you: one it prevents a dry fire for the first fire of the coil, and two it acts like a paste to help stick the wick to the sides/base of the deck so you can put the base piece and stove pipe on without running over the wick. Now assemble the rest of your tank, fill it up with juice, and let her rip! I find that 3.5v on my vamo gives a nice flavorful vape with that particular coil/wick setup. I also run my airflow wide open. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

I have a pair of ICR 18350's (900mAh/ea) that came with my vamo in a kit with a charger, and a couple of button top IMR 18650's (AW 2000mAh and orbtronic 2900mAh) I run in my vamo v5. The stacked 18650s seem to get the coil rollin vapor far quicker than the single 18650's. They do however run out of juice and need a recharge quicker, but that is a given considering 1800mAh vs 2000 and 2900 mAh capacities. They definitely perform better though when they are at full charge. (8.2-8.4v) That said: Make sure your mod was designed for dual 18350s!!! you don't want to fry your board by doubling the voltage input. Definitely not a good idea in a mech mod without a kick that can handle double voltage input. Make sure your mod can handle it before you try it.

another thing to note is you want to put the vamo in RMS mode and not mean mode. They come by default in mean mode. mean mode tends to overfire coils and quickly cause a burnt taste. RMS mode tightly regulates voltage/wattage output. To switch between those modes, hold the small left button down for about 20 seconds and it should display RMS mode on the screen. I have heard that the newest vamo V5's come in RMS mode and are not capable of switching modes, but I have an older Vamo V5 and it is capable of switching from mean to RMS mode and it definitely makes a big difference and is far safer!

don't expect to sub ohm off a VV/VW mod. great for 1.2ohm + tanks or 1.2ohm+ coil builds. but other than that the smaller ones can be nice for out and about vaping without dragging a dumbell of a mech mod and RDA/RBA around lol. vision spinner and aspire BDC fit in the pocket nicely for on the go vaping. or for chillin and possibly aiding in coil builds I like my vamo V5... it will read the ohms of a tank even if sub ohmed... it just won't fire something below 1.2ohm. does both VV and VW and does 3 battery configs: single 18350, stacked dual 18350, and single 18650. Probably one of the only mods out there that can handle dual 18350s stacked as it was designed to handle double voltage input. I run two of the 3 configs... almost never run a single 18350 as it feels weird being that short.

The officials should come in a sleeve packaging with a scratcher to get the code off it to check authenticity. mine didn't even come with a line painted on the spinner part... I had to paint it on myself with my model paint I used for color filling my AR15 lower:

I didn't take new pics since, but yeah I did recenter the coil since those pics were taken Good tip though I got some slag about not trimming my wire all the way up to the screws as well LOL.

yes, clockwise reduces airflow. I have mine opened up all the way. What kinda setup are you running in it? what wire and gauge? ohms? coil style? wick material? my KFL is delivering awesome flavor and belting out a decent amount of vapor..