Mr Smith

Bought the gf one for Christmas with the aspire battery tube that takes 18650 batteries. She loves it. She was also shocked at how light it was compared to her nautilus and vamo. Now she's hooked on sub ohm and mech mods lol.

i just saw that kanger came out with a sub ohm tank now that is a hybrid... it comes with both a replaceable coil, and a rebuildable coil deck with a pre-made pair of coils on the deck and rebuild materials... thing is rather large though...not sure I would want a tank that large...

there may be only 4 ingredients in juice, but when burnt it can still release carcinogens depending on brand of juice, and device/power level/how well the device wicks. many variables...needless to say: if you are getting a burnt taste, you care getting carcinogens...

you chooch up all that vapor in a couple hours? dayum! lol I will chill on the couch watching some netflix and chooch on mine for a few hours and not burn up that much juice, but I hve had leaks in the past, and you will leak out that much juice without realizing it...when these things leak, they go big and leak 1/2 the tank out!

Many reasons: 1. higher cost to replace coil(s)/wick(s) 2. lacks flavor/vapor output a rebuildable is capable of (with the exception of the new aspire atlantis tank) 3. should the manufacturer ever go out of business or discontinue support for a tank I would be SOL on replacement coils of a replaceable coil tank where there will always be cotton available and kanthal/nichrome wire available to rebuild mine with. 4. no control over quality of a replacement coil vs building my own I have 100% control over the build quality. as for ego: yes it is a thread standard. 510 is another thread standard. I use 510 thread tanks.

So you better understand this I will need to first explain ohms law. ohm is the measure of resistance from a material to electrical conductivity. The higher the ohms = higher the resistance. more resistance = less flow of electrons. the ohms law equation can be done 3 ways: V= IR, I = V/R, R = V/I. Most commonly we will use I = V/R for vaping because we usually already know the values of V and R. (V= voltage or pressure, R = ohms or resistance, and I = amperage or current.) So for your average replaceable tank we will say it has a 1.8ohm coil in it. Now we will assume you decide to use it on a mech mod which has zero regulations on it. whatever the battery is charged at is what is going to that coil when you fire it, so assuming we have a fully charged battery (4.1-4.2v) this is the amperage we would be pulling from the battery: 4.2V / 1.8R = 2.33I which also translates to 9.8watts of power. now lets look at my current sub ohm build: 4.2V / 0.5R = 8.4I (35.28watts) notice the amperage and wattage difference just by changing the coil? This becomes very important because batteries have an amperage rating that should not be exceeded, and it is important to know what that rating is, and what you will be demanding from it. In my case for example I know that my batteries are rated for 10Ampers (10I) of continuous use, or 15Ampers (15I) of short pulsed useage. If I were to draw more than 10A continuously I can risk the battery exploding because it would become hot very quickly and drain faster than it was made to drain... think of a wrench falling between the posts of the battery in your car...very bad...sparks and rapid heat and explosions may occour... so if I were to run anything lower than 0.42ohms from my batteries, I could risk my battery overheating and exploding in my mech mod when my battery is fully charged... more realistically 0.41R would be the limit for my batteries as my chargers both stop at 4.1V. Now the fancier and safer VTC5 batteries from sony can handle 30A continuous load (30I) so that means they can handle firing a coil with 0.14Ohm resistance max. beyond that gets dangerous for them and probably ridiculously hot for the user... if/when you decide to use a sub ohm setup, download the ohms law calculator on your smart phone and be sure the coil you use will stay within your batteries limits. As for the reason people like to use sub-ohm setups: more flavor and more vapor as the wire is generally thicker which has less resistance so we can make a coil with more surface area on the wick and with that less resistance it gets more power to get hot faster thus vaporizing more juice in less time which gives us the bennefits of the flavor and vapor. the higher the number of ohms, the slower it fires, and generally produces less vapor and less flavor.

ditch the silica and put in japanese cotton. wicks faster than anything else I have tried, yet doesn't flood or have leak issues. If you have a leak, then you didn't wick it right. should be able to lay it on its side, verticle, upside down, etc without any leaks. again: if you have a leak - you didn't wick it right. if you wick it correctly: no leaks if you wick it correctly and get dry/burnt hits: your wicking material sucks at wicking and should probably switch to japanese cotton, or rayon, or go through the process of "boiling" your cotton and drying it and then making wicks from it (too much work for me..japanese cotton doesn't need to be boiled to perform fantasticly, and it's easier to make wicks from as you don't need to unroll it first.) downside to japanese cotton is you will need to rewick it every couple tank fills because it will gum up the coil and start getting discolored from the juice... re-wicking is a sinch and the more you do it, the faster and better you will be at doing it.

If you don't mind a tube: vamo v5's are great vv/vw mods. Had my vamo quite a while now and it has been very reliable and durable. great for firing 1.2ohm + tanks. puts out up to 15w and will run off a single 18650, dual 18350's or a single 18350. I have two vamo's, and a vision spinner II that are all but retired now as I primarily vape from a kayfun lite plus running a single 26g 0.5ohm coil. So I bought a new variable mod the e-holly 35w. (under $50 shipped) that can fire down to 0.5ohm and push out 35w of power. Finally, my goto setup is my smok magneto mech mod with the KFL+ I find the mech mod to be more pocket friendly, looks like it was made for the tank with how well it fits together with the KFL+ and how well it matches it. No accidental firing with the lock ring down. great mod that takes both button top and flat top batteries, and both 18650 and 18350 as it telecsopes. Only downside is it does not have ego threads, but I would never put an ego tank on there anyways. nor do I have any desire to use an ego tank or any other replaceable coil tank for that matter... actually gave my GF the nautilus I had. she loves it, but I found myself no longer using it after I got the kayfun.

I go for flavor more than clouds. clouds just tend to accompany the flavor. which is why I run a kayfun Lite + with 26g @ 0.5ohms and japanese cotton on either my mech mod or eholly 35w variable.

yessss. freshly charged battery in the mech mod, nice japanese cotton in the kayfun, 0.5ohm 26g single coil build with a mix of 90% miss white (aplha) and 5% strawberry 5% kiwi mix and now I need to go have a vape!

got some japanese cotton for my kayfun lite + works much better at wicking than organic cotton did.

update: I got KGD cotton yesterday because I wanted to try it and see what the fuss is about... it wicks WAAAAAY better than organic cotton from walgreens. could tell right away. I always put my wick through the coil and then pre-soak it... pre-soaking organic cotton it likes to bead up the juice over the cotton and takes it a while to really soak in... putting more than a little bit will cause wicking problems and it will run dry and burn on ya (from a RTA standpoint...i'm sure it won't make much difference for a dripper user) however with the japanese cotton, I peeled off the thicker outter layers and used the inner stuff to make my wick... the very instant that juice touched that stuff it soaked in and absorbed it all immediately. no beading of the juice what so ever! with my first build with it I intentionally put what would normally be too much wick and it just keeps soaking up juice like a sponge and staying completely saturated flavor is much stronger and stays stronger because of how saturated that wick stays. but it doesn't flood. it just stays saturated. So that said: from a dripper standpoint probably not worth it as you can manually force the wick to saturate and stay that way... from a rebuildable tank standpoint: definitely worth it! the faster it can wick up juice: the better. pbusardo did a test comparing organic cotton, japanese cotton, rayon, and hemp. Japanese cotton wicked the fastest every test, organic cotton took more than a day to wick up juice, rayon was second fastest, and hemp was 3rd... rayon was not too far behind japanese cotton, but japanese cotton always had a significant lead over the rest for how fast and easily it wicks up 100% VG.

great tank. not hard at all to build coils... plenty of youtube videos on how to do it. we are always more than willing to help! tell you what tools you need, etc.

might want one if a ehpro knockoff of it comes out... I'm too cheap to spend over $100 on a tank...$65 on a ehpro is already pushing it.

Haha, yes we were all noobs at some point. What I mean by lazy is: some people I've heard from feel that sub ohming should be learned and earned so to speak.. As in you should have to go through the process of learning about different gauges of wire and how many wraps and what size etc, to make your coils sub ohmed, and learn about batteries and their limitations, etc, etc... This new product has come and basically made it so you can just buy this mod, buy a sub ohm battery, and vape away. no learning involved at all. As for noobs: nothing to be ashamed of! I always welcome questions and try to answer without sounding too judgemental. personally I think while this mod is pretty slick for advanced users that want reliable RBA performance on the go and maybe can't carry around their tools to make a coil and wick on the go for traveling or what not, however: this tank can be very dangerous to novice vapers/first time vapers... a novice might pick one of these up, and hook it to a provari or a vamo v2/v5 and wonder why the eff it doesn't work, or they might get the proper mod/battery and run 24mg juice in it and have the worst experience ever because they don't know that you want to dial the nic level waaaay down for sub ohmed devices that burn a lot of juice at once. So that is where I have mixed feelings about it. rebuildables are a different story because it is highly unlikely that a first timer will pick up a RBA or RTA, mech mod, and build a .5ohm coil and vape away...

havent used mine in a long time, but I have a spinner II used to use it with my ET-S tanks and run at about 3.8v most of the time @ 1.8ohms.

Anyone ever used one before? I just ordered one yesterday for under $50 shipped from within the USA. Just curious if anyone has any experience with these? They look and operate like a vamo, but claim to fire down to 0.5ohm coils and put out up to 35w output... If this is true and it works out, it could give the DNA30 box a run for its money...

Everybody has to have an opinion on this...So tell us if you like it, hate it, not sure/don't care, and why? Aspire has recently released its newest clearomizer tank to its line up and it is a game changer... The tank is called the Aspire Atlantis. This is the first replaceable coil tank to come SUB-OHMED! That's right a replaceable coil clearomizer tank that comes with 0.5ohm coils, and adjustable airflow that opens up quite a bit for massive airflow for big lung hits. They have also introduced a new sealed non adjustable battery for this tank that charges off a usb charger but works like a mech mod. no adjustments. IMO: not a very noob friendly tank as I didn't see any battery warnings or campatibility warnings. Also this tank gives the lazy noobs the ability to blow some huge clouds and keep up with the sub-ohmed rebuildable tanks and drippers. I'll leave it at that: what do you guys think?

ordered a e-holly 35w variable mod last night. looks and works like a vamo, but performs like a dna30. fires sub ohm down to 0.5ohm and puts out up to 35w of power. less than $50 shipped from within the USA

very broad question...best of what kind? cartomizer? clearomizer? rebuildable atomizer? rebuildable tank atomizer? mods too? (variable, box variable, mechanical, pen, pen variable) my personal favorites: RTA: Kayfun Lite+ single coil, 28g wire, 0.8ohms clearomizer: Aspire Atlantis (worlds first sub ohmed replaceable coil clearomizer @ 0.5ohms) best performing clearo EVER! variable mod: vamo v5 (works great for non sub ohm devices) variable mod I just ordered yesterday: e-holly 35w (vamo that can fire sub ohm down to 0.5ohms and put out 35w of power) one of the only 30w+ variable mods that can be had for under $50 which is a game changer and going to give the box mods a run for their money. mech mod: magneto (opposing magnets in place of a button spring, stainless, and telescopic tube for 18350 or 18650 battery)

i hear ya...I was saving money for a while...but then I bought a second kayfun..(nano this time) and yeah..there goes all that savings..

more like draw it into your mouth, stop vaping on your device and inhale it. Makes for a smoother "hit" I used to do the same with analogs so it was just a habitual method for me... My GF gets annoyed with me chilling on the couch choochin on my kayfun lol... one or two hits and there is a large lingering haze floating around the room obstructing her view of the TV. She vapes too but her juice is mostly PG I think...it really doesn't produce much visible vapor at all, but the flavor is ridiculously strong...don't even need to fire it to smell/taste that crap (she vapes menthol burst by volcano.) even out of a kayfun her juice produces very little visible vapor. my juice on the other hand makes clouds of vapor... (miss white by alpha)

battery is fine. more likely the coil burned out. (like a light bulb...gets a hot spot that eventually burns through and severs the wire connection) to verify this: try the nautilus on a different battery. if it works, then a connection issue perhaps? (sometimes the connectors on the bottom of aspire tanks need to be pulled down a bit to make good contact) if it doesn't work and you have already tried pulling the bottom connection down a bit, then probably time to change coils.

got a new kayful nano + clone and built a 1.5ohm 32g coil so it can be used on the vamo. side by side next to my kayfun lite +

that is easily fixed... take a pair of pliers and flatten one of the threads on the end of the screw. that will stiffen up the screw so it won't back itself out anymore.