jasonculp

Check out the other thread HERE We love spending other peoples money here at Vapor Talk!

Here is a few links: Newer kits: Kanger Topbox Mini Starter Kit Kanger Topbox Nano Starter Kit Older kits: Kanger SUBOX Mini Kit Kanger SUBOX Nano Kit Batteries (They are not included) Samsung INR 18650-25R LG HG2 18650 If you have extra money... buy an extra battery, and these: Efest Smart Single USB-AC Charger Silicone 18650 Battery Case The single bay charger is a pretty good one but most people buy 4 bay eventually so you can have many spares charged. One thing you will learn around here is having good backups is nearly as important as having you main all day vape rig. Another thing you will learn, we love spending other people's money!

VT = Vapor Talk (this board) TC = Temperature Control

Yes the forum is based in the US, as are most of the members. The Store that supports the site is also in the US. Kanger is a great brand and @Earthling789 is correct the Nano or Mini kit are great. They do have removable batteries, but you don't have to take them out. They will charge in the unit. (it is better to have a separate charger and battery so you can carry a charged spare) I really don't know what box mod to recommend with a built in battery. @Tam has had great luck with the Eleaf iStick 50 watt and the Triton 2 tank. Both are really reasonable online.

The #1 reason. But Liion is a safe place to buy them. If you have a problem they will take care of you. They are a great battery. I will probably never buy another one though. I just don't need them. I personally will buy 25R's, LG2's or 30Q's until something better comes along. I also have a set of HB6's if I need to pull more amps. (I also have a few sets of VTC4's) I have no need to pay the premium for the Sony's. There is certainly nothing wrong with them though.

LMAO that is great! I guess you are correct. @iQuit is correct. Nothing from Efest. They make some fairly decent batteries, but you have to be very careful. They released a batch of 35A 3000mah batteries that were proven to be LG MJ1s, a good battery but a 10A battery. This has been proven by 3 independent testers, on who is a reseller of Efest batteries. Efest has not only denied it but attacked 2 unpaid testers, who are only looking out for us. This has turned into a moral issue for me... I also think for the mod the 25R would be the best battery for the money. It is slightly out of the continuous discharge range, but, it has been proven to be a very stable battery even if mistreated. Sony VTC4 would probably be the best, but, unless you go to the vendors I mentioned earlier, or a very trustworthy, well known vendor, I wouldn't buy the Sony. A good $5.00 25R is much safer than a $9.00 counterfeit Sony. I also don't recommend the HE2 or HE4 if you are pushing the maximums. They are great batteries, just not, not nearly as stable when pushed like the 25R. I can't type short replies.... My recommendations seem to get lost in the stuff I feel like i need to say

Actually they all work the same in a Variable Wattage mod. In a series: 3.7V X 3 = 11.1V 200 watts / 11.1V = 18A since they are in series 3 batteries have the same continuous discharge rating. In parallel 200 Watts / 3.7 = 54 A , 54A across 3 parallel batteries = 18A Please note that I am calculating this at nominal charge. At cutoff voltage, your battery has to work much harder, so the amps drawn increases greatly. This is one reason I really like the RX200 so much. The triple battery really helps you have quite a bit of headroom, and the shape of the mod really makes it fit great in your hand. It is a bit heavy and bulky for my taste, so it stays on my table most of the time. Also I think I should note that the above calculations don't work with a mechanical mod. There are very few series mechanical mods, but there are some. In fact there is one that can use different battery contact bars so it can work either way. With a mechanical mod you must use the volts and resistance to come up with the Watts. With a Variable Wattage mod you must calculate the battery draw based on how many watts you are asking from it. (Actually the calculations work the same, but in a Variable Wattage mod you work both sides of the board separately, the common factor is the watts)

I have been running V3.0 on my Evic VTC minis, my Wismec Presa 75W (with the Evic software on it), and my RX 200, and I will say it is a great update. I have not applied the Wismec version to the other Presa yet, I will try to get it done this weekend. The ability to change the TCR has made a huge difference. I have been using the crown SS coils in SS mode and it didn't work great, but the ability to change the TCR has made them my favorite premade coil. I have still never ordered the SS wire, I need to get it done. The Titanium has been working so good for me in the NEBOX, I just haven't done it.

it is the only language I know. If I can just keep one vapor from ending up on the news with a injury, by boring them to death with geek speak...I have succeeded.

That is the cool thing about Variable Voltage mods, they don't care what ohm's you are running, only the watts. I don't personally recommend any 2 18650 mods for 200 watts. If you do the math 200 watts (max wattage) ÷ 6.4 volts (2 x 3.2V batteries at low cut out voltage) = 31.25 amps. This is assuming that the board is 100% efficient, but it isn't so we should add 5% - 10% to it so 31.8A to 34.4A. There are no independently proven batteries that will have a continuous discharge of over 30A. Personally the Wisemec DNA200 mods and the RX200 use 3 18650s and that gives you a bit of overhead. 200 watts (max wattage) ÷ 9.6 volts (3 x 3.2V batteries at low cut out voltage) = 20.8 amps As for batteries. If you are pushing it very hard the LG HB6/HB2 are great batteries, but they are only 1500 mah so they don't last long. If you are in the middle the Sony VTC4 is a great option. It will last longer at 2100 mah. If you are staying below 150 watts in a triple battery mod I recommend the LG HG2 or Samsung 30Q they are 3000 mah. I am not too different than @Earthling789 my all day vape is 40 watts. At home in the evening I use a few different mod/tanks in the 60 - 80 watt range, but not on a normal basis.

You got pretty good information from someone. VTC5 is a 20A battery. You would be much better off buying VTC4's if you really plan on using 200 watts. I don't know what your experience level is, or what other equipment you have, but 200 watts, day in and day out, if you can find an atomizer that can handle it, you should probably get 9 to 12 batteries if you plan on doing it all day. You will also need to keep a charger handy as they will not have time to charge before you drain another set. The on board charger will be no help at 200 watts either because it is can't charge them as fast as you will be draining them. The reality of the situation is most people never get over 125 - 150 watts using a good build on a dripper. You will possibly be using in temperature control so it may never hit 200 watts in the first place and if it does it will back off very quickly. If you plan on playing in the 200 watt range I would definitely recommend the Sony VTC4 or the LG HB2 or HB6. The LG's will handle much more load, but do not have the capacity of the VTC4. At high wattages I also recommend keeping your batteries married, so you will need at least 3 and 6 is better. I also never recommend charging in the mod, only external chargers. With 6 batteries you can be charging 3 while using 3. I run LG HG2's in mine most of the time, but it will probably never see over 100 watts. My TFV4 and my juice seems to like the 80 watt range and no higher. The Crown likes around 60. The most important thing is to buy your batteries from a reputable place. Vape shops and Ebay are one of the largest suppliers of counterfeit batteries. (Most of the time the sellers don't even realize it) Here are some of the better places to buy them. I have used all 3 and gotten great service and good prices: Liion Wholesale ILLUMN RTD Vapor

I missed the sale. I bought 2 from China. The first I put the Evic VTC software on and it works very slick. The second one wouldn't take the software. V3 for the Presa is supposed to give it all of the same features as the Evic software so I will upgrade the second one sometime this week. I really would have never paid attention to them, until I read your glowing reviews of the 40 watt. I am really glad I bought them, and plan on buying more. They are just as good as the Evic VTC mini (which I feel is one of the best single 18650 on the market) but with much better ergonomics.

Welcome to Vapor Talk! You have a good setup there. The only think I might ask is what type of battery are you running in it? The VTC mini is a very safe setup and as long as your battery is not very low just about any 20 amp battery will be good in it. Your resistance with a Nickle coil, and the Ti coil will jump around a bit due to temperature (that is how the Temp Control works) when you lock your resistance make sure your atomizer is at room temperature. This will make it more accurate. Don't worry with the charts, settings, or any "expert" advice on where you should be vaping. Just put it in the correct mode (Power, Ni200, Ti, or SS mode) and lock your atomizer. Start at something reasonable such as 25 watts and 375F. If this is too hot turn it down a bit. If it is too cool turn it up a bit. As you go up or down in temp raise or lower your watts a bit accordingly. If it starts to taste burnt, you are as high as your juice, or coils can handle. Just adjust it until you find what you like. I am currently using a very similar setup at home. I use the Wismec Presa 75W TC. It is the exact same chip as the VTC mini, in fact, I am running the VTC mini software on it. I have a Crown (tank) on top of it using the SS .25 coil and 30PG/70VG 6ml/mg Juice. I am running it in SS mode at 500F and 40.5 watts. I am using a Samsung 18650 25R battery in it (Blue Smurf battery) This isn't a recommendation for these settings, but just to give you an idea of what someone else is running. Good luck with your journey and like @FXRich said, come back and ask questions, and someone here will be glad to help in anyway possible.

Like Earthling, I normally start at Vape NW, next S-V, and lastly 101Vape. If I am really looking for a deal, and have plenty of time to wait I use Vape Crawler It normally will find the best deal out there, but, only from stores who submit data to it. The best price could be from a store I have never dealt with or from an overseas vendor. So far I have had very good luck with it. About half the time the best deal, with shipping has be USA, well known vendors, and the other half has been China, such as Efun.top and 3FVape. You do have to be careful with the overseas vendors, it is sometimes not real clear if it is authentic or a clone. It sometimes is not worth the savings to wait 2+ weeks, or deal with the possible problems.

My personal favorite is Fadora Vapor it is owned by our member @Compenstine and he will go above and beyond to take care of you. I see other members having great luck with: Vapor Talk Store and EC Blends There are many good places to buy quality e-liquid. If you have a site in mind, post the name of it, and I am sure at least one member has had experience with their juice/service.

Those do look great! I really like the SubTank Mini. I have PIF them all. I really regret it. I currently am totally hooked on the NEBOX. I wish they would fix the problems with it, but they will probably abandon it. I love the fact it fits in my hand and nothing sticks up but the drip tip. I am using standard mod/tanks as backups and at home. I just wish NEBOX vaped as good as a Mini +.

I do have a lot of vape gear. I am just very partial to my ADV rig. It isn't the best I have, it isn't the worst, it is just my favorite. I am so glad I bought it. I also have been getting a bit lax in keeping plenty of backups with me. I got home the other night and realized that I had no extra charged 18650s with me. I had at least 10 at home, but none with me. I do have a usb charger, but, why no batteries? I tried to explain this to a friend the other day. When we were putting in the new computer I wouldn't vape until lunch, and never thought anything about it. I sure couldn't have done that a couple years ago!

It was touch and go...but I made it Seriously though, one thing I have been so amazed by is the fact I really don't go into nic fits since I quit smoking. If I have to go a few hours without vaping, it is no big deal. After a few hours with out a analog, I would be climbing the walls!

I didn't learn this tonight, but it was really reinforced. @Tam, @Earthling789, @Jeffb, @Bebop, @Compenstine, and countless others drilled into my head about backups, and backups for backups... tonight it paid off. I had to work late and we were rushing to get out the door at the office. I jumped into the car and headed home. I reached down for my trusty NEBOX, and it wasn't there. I had a flash and saw it setting on my desk. I was 10 - 15 miles away, and I don't have a key. I thought about calling the boss and turning around, but he was rushing to an event for his daughter. It wasn't a problem. I reached in my laptop bag grabbed my backup. It was dead. No problem, popped a fresh battery in and drove home. My current backup is a Wismec Presa 75TC with a Crown on top. It doesn't vape like my NEBOX. No problem again. I get home rebuild the RBA grab the new backup off the shelf and it is just like I didn't leave one at work....all is well and I am calm.

Is this guy in the video for real? You can not test the amperage capacity of a battery with a multi-meter, unless you have a load, and possibly a shunt. I don't know who this guy is, but, he definitely does not understand electricity. First his multi-meter is set on miliamps, and his leads are not in the correct plugs. With a Fluke he must have the red lead in the far left plug to measure amprage. The latest version of the Fluke 87V has a limit of 10A continuous and 20A for 30 seconds. In order to measure amps your battery must be under a load. You have to get amps from somewhere.... Ohm's law is Ohm's law. In order to have Amps, you must have Volts and Resistance. He has Volts in the battery, but has no resistance. In order to test a battery under load you need something like this: Computerized Battery Analyzer (CBA) and CBA A2 500W Amplifier Here is a real test of the battery, and it isn't bad. It isn't better than a 25R, but it isn't worse. A battery has to be chosen based on the needs of the user, not the maximum amps. Here is a real test of the battery: Tesiyi 40A His calibrated fingertip temperature probes are not really scientific either.

Welcome, and congratulations!

I can barely handle the one we have. I was telling @Compenstine the other night, that I think the cat does crack. I have never seen one that is so spastic. He will literally run, climb, and claw everything in the house for an hour or more straight. Then he is content and will come curl up next to me in my chair, or in his bed. Then a few hours later he will do it again....

Auto sensing? That is cool! I may just have to grab a couple. I really like the Ti wire. It is a bit springy but is easier to work with than Ni200.

I have had 2 of the standard mini's and really liked them. I never had much of a problem with Ni200 coils from Kangar, but they are still factory coils and the RBA just works better. Does the Mini have Titanium or SS mode? I have not really followed them too much, I guess I will have to do some research. I have been building my NEBOX with Titanium ever since I got it an really like it. I want to try SS, but I never have ordered it. I had it in my cart and never pulled the trigger.

Awe... I want another dog. We lost both our Boxer, and our momma cat (Manx / Main coon). My wife picked up a Lowes Home Improvement stray, so we have a kitten now.