jasonculp

I will jump on this band wagon! I vape 99% Frutti-Tutti, and 1% home-made. @Compenstine makes a good product, and also will help you with DIY if you are so inclined.

I like the IPV line also, but have not had as good of luck with the Sigelei since they got away from the YiHi boards. The Presa 75W is probably my favorite mod with a detachable tank at this moment. I use my NEBOX (which I don't recommend) as a daily driver, but the Presa and Crown is always nearby.

Congrats! The ASVAB was the one test in school that I aced. I had recruiters from every branch chasing me....but I had my future planned out. I was going to be a Crop Duster, just like Dad.... Wish I had listened to the recruiters....lol

Are you using a Kangar Sub Box mini? With a Samsung 25R? This is what I am gathering from your post. Short Answer, you are perfectly safe with a .5 ohm coil up to 50 watts max. Long Answer: You are only able to adjust the Wattage on this device. It has a DC/DC converter that uses Ohm's law to provide power to the coil. With the .5 ohm Clapton coil at 50 watts the device is applying 5 volts to the coil. It is only pulling 16 amps from the coil when your battery is at it's lowest. (it is only pulling 13 amps with a full charge) With a Variable Voltage mod you can't apply Ohm's law in the same way we would on a mechanical mod. The only thing that matters to your device is the amount of watts you are asking it to supply. The correct formula is: 50watts / 3.5V (low voltage cut off) * 1.1 to add 10% for the efficiency of the board.

No it was just a discussion in another tread, not a topic. I am sure you can, but I wrap my own. It is super simple, and cheap. I was just throwing it in, because I have only had about 3 coils (the ones that came with the TFV4's and have never bought any more. I just use the clapton RBA (the one with 4 screws)

We had this discussion in another thread, and yes. I can't remember who all was commenting on it, but, it seems to be pretty universal. I only use the Crown coils now, and the first 5 pack was fine, but have been told the newer ones are not as good. I am using the RBA most of the time in all of my tanks. In fact the TFV4 is great with it's RBAs. I think there are 3 availible, the Single (Clapton), Dual and Triple (Clapton). I am using mainly Titanium as of now, and want to try some SS but still haven't bought any yet.

Yes. The higher the number the longer they should last. I really don't know. I am not sure if either specification on the battery is correct. It is actually a 20A battery, it could have 3000mah, but there is no way to tell. It really depends on how they are treated. I have some that are approaching a year old that seem to be as good as the day I got them. I also have a few that were not holding charge within a few months. Here is a chart on the -25R on the cycles it will handle. Here are 2 good articles from BatteryBros (where I snagged the chart): When to recycle 18650 batteries, and how to start a collection center in your vape shop. Green Samsung 18650 25R5 vs. Blue 25R2 From this information, I gather that around 250 cycles is where they start loosing capacity. A cycle is from 4.2 (full charge) to 2.8 or 2.5. Since most electronic mods cut off at 3.5 - 3.2 a recharge is a bit less than a cycle. It also is much better not to let them get that low. Temperature is also a big factor is battery life.

I have never used Ni200 mode on my RX200. I do use a custom TCR for my SS Crown and Ti01 RBA coils though. 470-490 is right on the edge of burning the cotton. I run mine in the same range, so when it runs dry, it still trys to maintain that temp, which is hot enough to burn cotton. The 425 range is much better to prevent dry hits, but I find it a bit too cool. I have no experience with the Fuchai.

You will probably be fine. I am not a big Imren fan due to the exageration on thier wrappers here are links to the most recent tests: Imren Orange 30A 2100mAh 18650 Imren Purple 40A 2500mAh 18650 Imren Yellow 40A 2000mAh 18650 Imren Purple 40A 3000mAh 18650 Imren Green 40A 3200mAh 18650 Imren Green 30A 3500mAh 18650 As long as you are using them in the range that @Mooch lists in his tests, you will be fine. As for places to get them, these are my favorites: If you are running 60W or less per battery: 18650 Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q High Discharge Flat Top $6.00 back ordered Samsung INR18650-30Q Battery 15A 3000mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount, Genuine and Tested $6.75 LG HG2 18650 Battery Genuine & Tested - 20A 3000mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $6.95 18650 Samsung INR18650-25R R5 2500mAh (GREEN) High Discharge FLAT Top $5.00 Samsung INR18650-25R Battery Genuine & Tested - 20A 2500mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $5.15 If you are running up to 70W per battery: 18650 Sony US18650VTC4 2100mAh High Discharge Flat Top $6.00 Sony 18650 VTC4 Battery Genuine & Tested - 30A 2100mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $6.99 18650 LG 18650HD2 2000mAh High Discharge Flat Top $5.00 If you plan on running up to 100 watts: LG HB2 18650 Battery Genuine & Tested - 30A continuous 1500mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $4.59 18650 LG 18650HB2 1500mAh High Discharge Flat Top $4.99 LG HB6 18650 Battery Genuine & Tested - 30A continuous 1500mAh - Flat Top - Wholesale Discount $4.99 Please note that as you go up in Amp capacity you loose capacity. So a 20A battery will generally last longer than a 30A battery. There are other good places to buy batteries such as: RTD Vapor 101 Vape If you choose the Sony I would only buy them from the places listed above. They are highly counterfeited. Many unsuspecting Vape Shops and Online Stores sell them as genuine.

It is a design flaw. If you build the RBA correctly it will not leak, but with the factory coil, if the vacuum gets too low in the tank, by getting too low, It will dump the juice through the coil. I love mine. I hope they come down in price so I can buy a few more. I really hope they come up with a new model that fixes the problems. I will not recommend this mod to people though. It just has too many issues.

I say that. I just use it as a rule of thumb. The major manufacturers of batteries that work well in vaping are Samsung, LG, and Sony. They do not put ratings on their cells, but have done exhaustive research on how they preform. In most cases, the batteries from these 3 manufactures are not only better than the re wrapped batteries, they are cheaper. If you want to know how a battery really performs, here is a good list that is done by an independent electrical engineer: Mooch's Blog I am not saying that Imren, MXJO, or Efest batteries are bad. I just feel it is much safer to go with a known commodity. A recent case in December Efest released the Purple 35A 3000 mAh which turned out to be a LG MH1, which is a good battery, but it is only 10A, then denied it and went after the testers that proved it. Imren's 30A 3500mah Green battery were actually LG MJ1 and Panasonic NCR18650GA1, both 10A batteries. When you buy a good Samsung 30Q or LG HG2, you know what you are getting, a good 20A battery. In fact Samsung only rates the 30Q at 15A but tests have shown it is actually a 20A battery. The tried and true Samsung 25R's have been proven to be one of the most versatile batteries on the market, not to mention cheapest. Don't worry about the Ohms of your atomizer, as it has no effect on the battery draw of a variable wattage mod. What you need to be concerned about is the wattage you have the mod set at. My rule of thumb is with a good 20A battery keep it under 60 watts per battery. So your Fuchai should stay at 120 watts or less, and the RX200 under 180 watts. In the wattage range you are running (55-75watts) you are only pulling a maximum of 12A or so assuming a 90% efficient board. You are probably only pulling less than 8A in the RX200, so you are pretty safe with just about any good 15 - 20 amp INR/IMR battery. Where most of the problem comes in is when your batteries get low and the mod is trying to boost the voltage is causes it to work really hard. This is more of a problem with the 1 and 2 cell mods as they are trying to take 3.7 or 7.4 volts and boost it to make the wattage required at the atomizer. With the RX200 you have 10.5 volts available when it is nearly dead, so it doesn't have to work as hard to supply the requested Wattage. Another thing we overlook too often is that we sometimes stick the mod in our pocket and the buttons get pushed, or they might malfunction so I like to have plenty of head room with my batteries.

I need to weigh it. It is one of those with wheels and a handle. I am supposed to be a salesman on the road, so I carry everything with me. It has a divider in the middle so I keep a 3 ring binder and about 20 files in it. I also keep cables for hotels, phone chargers, cards, emergency meds, pens, measuring equipment....and on and on. My boss tells me I make the Boy Scouts look unprepared. I am only on the road 2 days a week now, and I have not been able to break the habit.

I never really thought about it, but I carry 20 18650s with me at all times. 4 in the mods, 4 backups, and 12 in my laptop batteries (2 batteries with 6 18650 cells in each one)

So true. I am currently in 4 mod/tank backup mode. I have gotten so absent minded lately, some days it takes all 4 to keep me going. I left one on my desk, one back at the waterjet computer, and one in our delivery truck. That left the 4th backup to get home on... I am currently carrying 2-Nebox, 1-wismec presa TC with a crown, and an EVIC VTC mini with a TFV4 mini. 60 ml of juice, 2 coils for each mod, and 4 18650's. It is no wonder my laptop bag weighs so much.

LOL! It was back when I first started using dual coil RBA's with a lot of airflow. My 24mg 50/50 juice was just too much. I still have it somewhere. I am currently using the Wizard Labs stuff right now when I make juice, and it is pretty good. My work has kept me from making juice or any "hobby" stuff for a while....my life has gone from busy, to OMG.

I like the coils in my TFV4 mini, but probably will not buy any more due to how expensive they are. They do have good flavor though.

I will have to second what @Tam says. I have found very few juices that other people rave about, and I like too. I given away so much e-liquid that I bought on someone's suggestion and didn't like it. Try to find places that have samples. I usually start with the smallest bottle they have and test it. Just another suggestion. It seemed like when I switched from tobacco flavors to a totally different profile such as fruity flavors is when I really turned the corner with cravings. I know many people use tobacco flavors for years, and enjoy it, but for me it made a huge difference. I loved smoking, I still love the smell of second hand smoke, but I can tell you that the taste is now terrible to me! When I quit I was between 2-1/2 and 3 packs a day.

I have done this too. I wanted to cut some juice a while back and bought some drugstore VG, and PG. It was terrible...

I don't own one, but the top box seems to be pretty simple, and affordable. I have been suggesting it to a friend who is looking. I also like the Wismec Presa 75W and the Evic VTC Mini. Both of these mods use the same chipset and are fairly easy to use. Getting into TC adds a bit more complexity as you need special coils, and on some mods you adjust the Temp, and the Watts independently. I really like TC, but I enjoy tweaking it to fit my juice/tanks. Nice thing about a TC mod is it can be ran in power mode, also. This is much simpler, more watts=hotter, less watts = cooler, nothing else to adjust. The TopBox has an included tank, and it is a good one. The other 2 suggestions normally come by themselves. I really like the SubTank/Top tank Mini for a good intermediate tank. It allows Mouth to Lung, and Straight Lung hits. The Triton V2, the Crown, The Herakles Plus, are all getting good reviews too. Another thing to think about is batteries and possibly a charger. All 3 of the suggested mods use 18650 batteries. I personally would get at least 2 extra batteries, and possibly a charger. You can charge the battery in the mod itself, but only one battery at a time with an external charger you can charge from 1 - 6 depending on the charger. They are safer, and are better on your batteries. This will allow you to carry 2 spares (in a case) so you can pop out the dead one and pop in a fresh one. Batteries are another important thing to buy. I do not recommend any brands other than LG, Samsung, and Sony. For the best for the money pick up some Samsung 25R batteries. You should be able to get them for around $5.00 each. If you want to spend a little more and get a little longer vape time go for the Samsung 25R or LG HG2 battery. Please note that any battery that comes with the Amperage written on it from the factory should be avoided. The big manufacturers don't put it on them and the ones that do are re-wrapping batteries made by others, normally with overstated ratings on them. (some resellers add a sticker to 25R's and LG2's that have the Amperage and Mili Amp Hours on it, this is OK) Here are some good places to buy batteries: Liion Wholesale Illumn RTD Vapor If you find something you like, pop back here and ask questions, someone on here has probably used what you are looking at and can tell you their opinion of the product.

Like X 10. That is one of the best explanations I have ever read!

Welcome to Vapor Talk, it is good to have another "Vape Geek" on board! Sorry, I can turn a short answer into an essay.

Welcome to Vapor Talk! With the VTC mini you need to click the fire button 3 times and select the proper mode. If you want to use Power Mode, use the right button to select POWER. Start quite a bit lower than you think you need and go up until you are happy with the vape, but not tasting anything burnt. If you are running it in TC mode, start with a cool atomizer, the click the fire button 3 times, use the right button until you get to SS316. While it is flashing click the left button to go to the PWR set it for something around 25watts. Click the left button one more time and then the right one to lock the resistance. Then hit the fire button. Turn the temp up to about 300F or so and try it. If it is too hot turn it down, too cold turn it up. You may have to go back and turn the PWR up if it will not reach the temp, if it is going into temp control too fast, turn the PWR down. I am sure that is clear as mud, but basically start low and work your way up, then keep asking questions and we will try to help you get it where you need it!

Sorry, you can't apply Ohm's law that way in a variable wattage mod. The only thing that changes the battery draw is the wattage you have it set on, and on the amount of voltage in the battery. You have to apply Ohm's law to both sides of the board separately. Here is some great links to explain it much better than I can: Mooch's blog - Calculating Battery Current Draw for a Regulated Mod also Steam Engine's Battery Drain Calculator Make sure to change to a Regulated APV, then power regulated: Variable Wattage mode. For a good explanation check out the "How it Works" link in the bottom right hand corner. Semi-short explanation is that in a regulated mod your boost/buck is in between the atomizer and the battery. The only thing that each side has in common is the wattage you have it set to (or it sets itself to in temp mode) In a single 18650 mod you are boosting the voltage to get to say 50 watts at the atomizer. Ohm's law works on this side, you have to take 50 watts with .5 ohms = which is 5volts and 10amps at the atomizer. Ohm's Law says if you are asking for 50 watts from the battery, which is only has 3.7 volts you have a draw of 13.5A (this is assuming 100% efficient boost converter with does not exist) The easy way to calculate it is 50watts /3.7 Volts = 13.5 Amps. The rule of thumb is to use the low cut off Voltage for your mod, because it is drawing the most trying to boost the voltage to reach the requested wattage, so we normally use 3.5 volts. We also add 10% to assume the board is only 90% efficient. The RX200 is a unique mod in that it uses 3 18650's in series. At nominal voltage you have 11.1 Volts. So to supply 50 watts it is only pulling a 4.3A load on your batteries. I have no idea how efficient or if there is much loss in a buck circuit, I have never thought about it that much Long and short of it, your atomizer resistance had zero effect on the battery life* of a variable wattage mod. Watts you have it set to makes the difference. *most people, including myself, use much more power with low ohm coils, therefore batteries don't last as long.

There is nothing wrong with a mechanical mod, and everyone's opinion is valued. The thing about mechanical mods is they are not for beginners. They take much more care to keep safe. I personally don't use any of mine any more, because I like a consistent vape. A variable wattage mod keeps the vape steady from full battery until it is drained. I also do not have to adjust my build to fit my mod, I just adjust my wattage.

Ditto... I have both of them and they are great! I think that is why I like the Wismec Presa 75. It fits my hand much like the D2. I still have not got the D3 yet, but I may if the price drops.