jasonculp

Welcome to Vapor Talk!

I have a VV that is a few months old. The only problem I have had with it is the center post not making good contact with the center post on the atomizer. This only happened to me with plastic tanks, like the iClear and with Kanger tanks. What it turned out to be is the center post on the VV needed to be pulled up slightly. I turned it off, took a small pick and gently pulled the center post up, it only took a fraction. Sometimes I would have to use needle nose pliers or a small pick and gently pull the center pin in the atomizer down. I am not sure if this is the problem that you are having, or if it is an internal issue with the VV. Welcome to Vapor Talk!

I have tried a few, unsuccessfully. I am really spoiled using a coil building jig that I can't build them that close to the atty. I have had a lot of trouble with sleepers and dual parallel coils. I can't even imagine some of the more advanced coils such as the triple parallel, quad and multi-twisted parallel. I have seen pictures of all of them, but every time I try a parallel coil...I end up with 2 separate coils. I can't keep them together.

I have the same trouble with a coffee flavor that I drip. If I am using it a lot, it gunks up very quickly. In my dripper, it takes about a minute to rewick it. I just pull them out dry burn, blow of the burnt excess rewick and go back to vaping! It is amazing how clean your coils are just from a dry burn/rewick.

I am a big fan of vertical coils. I usually build a dual 3.2mm vertical coil @ .4 ohms in my Tobh. I was running the same thing in my 454 big block, but it seems to like horizontal better. I am going to get some Tiger wire from Comp one of these days and try some verticals in it. I have been in a dripping rut the last few weeks. I have not been using the RDA's much lately.

Great!

The only way I can do it from my phone is to go to the bottom and click the full version button at the bottom of the page, then follow the previous instructions. It is kinda a pain with the small screen, but I bet it will work. To get back to the mobile version there is a link at the lower left side of the screen.

Oh sorry, that was from a computer using the 4.1 theme. I will look and see what I can figure out!

Click your username in the upper right corner. Then click My Profile. Hover your mouse over the profile picture and a button will come up that says change. Give it a go, and if you have any questions, just ask!

Welcome to Vapor Talk!

Welcome to Vapor Talk Martha!

I used organic cotton. I tried to boil mine, it was more trouble than it was worth (in my opinion). I have since switched to rayon. I have issues with burning cotton. I worked in a cotton gin for quite a few years, and burning cotton is a smell/taste that I can not stand. I am sure that there is probably residue on the cotton of some type. If it is safe is a question for someone smarter than myself. I tend to be the guy like aufin. Running with scissors has been a painful past time of mine.

I am with fishguy1123 on this. I think staying close to the 1 ohm (2 x 2ohm) range is a good place to start. What size Kanthal do you have? Don't forget to check the ohms before you put the atomizer on the mod to check for shorts. Jump on the the YouTube and watch a few videos. It can be very frustrating at first, but it gets easier. Try a few out then jump back on and ask questions. I am not the most experienced, but will be glad to help. What said fishguy1123 about the juice is true, 3-6 on the Nicotine, and I prefer as close to 100 percent VG as I can get. My current dripping liquid is 20PG/80VG.

Here is some old bookmarks I had set aside for later! http://www.scribd.com/doc/209902492/How-to-build-a-DNA20-DNA30-Mod Well... 1 bookmark. All of the rest were dead...lol

Here are the 2 most popular on the market: http://www.yihiecigar.com/products.html http://www.evolvapor.com/shop.php I have never built one. I really don't know where to buy them. I have found these 510 connectors I was thinking about using in another project: http://www.varitube.com/510-Connector--Self-adjusting-Center-Pin--14mm-22mm-285mm_p_141.html They also show other mod building supplies. I have never bought from them, so I don't know anything about their service. Garrett1234567 has been building some non-regulated MOSFET boxes, and Proetus has a good thread to follow here: The threads at the top of this page contain a lot of good info too! Hope this helps!

Welcome to Vapor Talk!

Welcome to Vapor Talk!

Welcome to Vapor Talk!

So far I am too. I plug in every night, it lasts all day. When I forget, it seems to last the next, most of the time. I am noticing a few quirks. It seems that every once in a while it does not fire when I push the button the first time. I have not head any of the problems others have had with the 510 connection. I only use the Nautilus Mini and the full size. I think this has helped the 510 problems with it's good threads and spring loaded positive pin. I just ordered my second one in Blue.

Welcome to Vapor Talk!

I love it! It is so simple. The only moving part is the button. That being said, the hybrid connection and the fact it has no adjustments makes it prone to auto-fire. It also has no locks. I would definitely call it an advanced mod...

Mine was actually a brass button with threads. It has a brass nut on top (to make contact with the battery) that allows for adjustment. It is a poor design. I had to use a file and small brass washers to make it work. I spent hours getting it all to fit correctly. I then purchased the 4nine clone (with a magnetic button), and it worked right out of the box. So I put the GP Paps (cheap clone) to the side. Now all I have to adjust is the bottom pin of my 454 Big Block clone to shorten the throw, and it makes good contact. If i get any heat, it is from chain vaping, when this occurs, my head is spinning and I have to put it down.

Yes! I had this with my GP Paps clone. It took a lot of filing and sanding to get the button to contact the base of the mod and the battery at the same time. If they didn't the spring would carry the current and it was tiny. It would heat up really fast. Mine also have that ring. I am not sure what causes it.

In a perfect world, the brass would have much less resistance than the kanthal. If you have contact problems with the brass, I guess the kanthal would be a easier path for the electricity, but it would be less than ideal. If I understand it correctly, kanthal's resistance is what causes it to heat up and produce the vapor....I think...

I wish I could help more, but you have been doing exactly as long as I have, and you probably have more experience! Hot button means resistance, so something isn't making great contact. I am sure you know that. I did have one that the surface of the brass contact pin was not flat, so it was only contacting in a very small spot. It caused quite a bit of heat. I also read this. I am not sure about it, but it seems like "resistance wire" would not be the best thing to eliminate resistance. It seems like something would work better than kanthal. Someone might have a little better insight than I do.