jasonculp

Edna, That is a handy calculator, but it doesn't use the correct calculations for a Variable Wattage or Temp Control mod. Ohm's law must be calculated for both sides of the chip inside your mod. (The calculator works fine for a mechanical mod) The simplest way to figure it is: Wattage / Low battery cut off voltage * 1.1 (add 10% for the inefficiency of the board) = Total Amp Draw So if you have a mod (with any ohm coil that it will fire with) and it is set to 60 watts and has a single battery it will pull 18.86 amps because: 60/3.5*1.1=18.87 Most mods cut off around 3.5 Volts. With a board inside them amplifying the voltage to you atomizer the lower your batteries voltage, the more demand it is asking from the battery. On the example above, the board it having to amplify the batteries 4.2 Volts (at full charge) to 5.4 Volts at the atomizer to deliver 60 watts. This requires 15.71 Amps to boost the voltage when the battery is fully charged. When your battery is low (3.5 V) it requires 18.86 Amps. Here is a link to the handiest calculator on the web, but it can be a bit complicated: Steam Engine - Coil Wrapping Steam Engine - Battery Draw - to use this make sure to check the "regulated" check box and "power regulation" check box. I always recommend for beginners to use a pretty good Variable Wattage mod for building. It is just another level of safety. If the mod senses it is shorted, it won't fire, and if the battery gets too low it won't fire. You can still over tax the battery inside it, but it is much harder to do. Have fun with it, building your own coils can be very satisfying. It not only lets you tailor the coil to your vape, but it is also much less expensive once you have your tools/supplies. I rewick my coils every 3 days or so. This gives me a "new coil" vape for pennies.

I agree with @Earthling789 . The RX200 is a great mod, the RX200S looks even better. I have not used the TFV8, but if you like it, get another. I have the TFV4, but it isn't one of my goto tanks. It is good, but I like the flavor much better from my RBAs. The TFV tanks for me are more of a cloud chasing tank, than a flavor tank. The large RBA allows you to make some massive coils on the TFVs, but it is a cost of flavor.

Frutti-Tutti from Fadora Vapor....the only juice I use!

You are absolutely on the right path! I am not sure exactly how the dripbox functions. It seems to be a set 60 watt output. This means it varies the voltage to the coil based on the resistance. So even though it is not variable wattage, it is controlled by the chipset to keep you safe. The Pico and 40TC are regulated and very safe mods. The batteries are good. They are not the longest lasting batteries, but very good batteries just the same. They will handle safely everything your mods can throw at them. I personally have quit buying batteries from amazon. I have had good luck with them, but prefer going to a source that I can go back to if I have a problem, and also verify authenticity. My current favorite batteries/vendors are: Samsung 30Q: Samsung INR18650-30Q Battery 15A 3000mAh (Liion Wholesale) 18650 Samsung 3000mAh INR18650-30Q (Illum) LG HG2: LG HG2 18650 Battery Genuine & Tested - 20A 3000mAh (Liion Wholesale) 18650 LG 18650HG2 3000mAh (Illum) You can also can catch them on sale at 101 vape and a few others for a great price. There are other batteries that are coming out that look pretty good, such as the new Sony VTC 5A.

I still have quite a few mechanical mods. I really like the simplicity, and the dependability of them. You are correct though, they are essintially a pipe bomb in the wrong hands. I don't use them any more. I like the consistent vape of a variable wattage mod so much better.

I personally agree with you. Today's modern temp control mod is extremely accurate. Most Digital Ohm meters were never designed to have the resolution required to measure less than one ohm with great accuracy. The less expensive vaping ohm meters will keep you from having a dead short, but you can't rely on it too much for accuracy. The Flukes we use at work are great, but just the amount of resistance in the leads and the connections from the probes to the 510 base can skew the ohms by .01 - .1 ohm. Honestly it doesn't matter what the meter says, it matters what the mod says. If the mod thinks it has a .5 ohm coil and you have it set to 50 watts it is going to supply 5 volts. If the mod reads it as 1 ohm it will apply 7+ volts. (This is greatly oversimplified) If it thinks it is shorted it will not apply voltage (hopefully). This is why I never recommend any mechanical mods, or even variable voltage mods any more. If it can't adjust in watts, or TC it just isn't as safe. All this being said, I do still recommend all beginners to get one, and use it. It will provide a fairly stable work stand for your atomizer base and will make sure it isn't shorted before you stick it on a mod. I have a bad habit of building on a mod and I have accidentally hit the button while installing the coil....lol I feel like the most important safety purchase is good batteries. Mods, while much safer, and smarter than just a few years ago, are still dumb. They will still ask more from a battery than some batteries can supply. This is when mods become unsafe. Luckily most Lithium Ion batteries' voltage will collapse quickly on a variable wattage mod and go below the mods low voltage cut off if they are asking for more than the battery will supply.

I have! The Cupti looks really good and I really want to pick a few up. I just have not seen where the RBA has been made available yet. I do like the top airflow design, and the leak proof design. I really hope they have updated the electronics. I wish they had made the tank a bit bigger. I fill mine once a day now (10ml). If I am using a HG2 or 30Q I change the battery once a day. It works great! The only problem I see with the design is how am I going to dry burn/clean coils? I have a evic mini that I keep a Sub Tank Mini base on and just screw on the RBA and clean/recoil/rewick while it is mounted in the base. With this design, I don't know how I am going to do it. I may have to build something to adapt it to a 510 base

If you are looking for some one-on-one instruction @Compenstine has a pretty good setup and is a good teacher. He has helped me learn quite a bit about DIY juice making. His page can be found here: Fadora Vapor

I will pile on the SubTank Mini band wagon. I have both the Mini and the Top Tank. They are very versatile. You can use just about all levels of vaping experience. I hear really good things about the Triton 2, but have never used it. I have really quit using normal tanks since I have been using the NEBOX. I love it, but I honestly can't recommend it to others. So many have had trouble with it leaking. It also has the worst Temp Control I have ever seen. I use the RBA with Kanthal/NiChrome exclusively. I have been using Clapton wire from Vape NW, by Geek Vape. I bought quite a few different spools and can't tell much difference in them. Most of my Kanthal I bought from Temco. When I first got into building my own coils I bought 100 ft spools of everything from 22ga to 30ga. I found I used the 26&28 ga the most. I picked up quite a few random gauges of Ni and Ti around the web. I also use the UD SS316. I really recommended the Coil Master DIY Kit. It is a bit pricey, but it has everything you need, except a good pair of scissors. I have the first version and use it quite often. I personally am trying to never buy a factory made coil again. I have 6 RBA sections and I have not built a coil in months. I put about 5 wraps of the Clapton wire on the base and just clean/rewick them every few days. Please do a search on Dry Burning Kanthal. There are warnings out there not to do it, but I still do it. When I clean my coils I rinse them before I put them in my mod and also prime them so the chances of particulates are minimized. Oops, I just read you ordered a kit...lol

Congratulations! It is a weird coincidence, I smoked my last cigarette on June 18, 2014! (on my wife's birthday) I actually started vaping a while before that. Here is to many more years!

Cool! Looks like fun!

I use 10 - 12 nicotine, daily. I tried 8 for a while, and it just didn't cut it. Most of my coils are Clapton's in an RBA in the .4 - .6 ohm range I run both 50pg/50vg and 20pg/80vg. I really don't find it too harsh, but everyone is different! If it works for you, there is really no wrong way to do it!

Tam is on the money. We need quite a few more details before we can help you. Your build details are the only way to tell what is going on. What is the resistance of your build? How many coils? How many wraps? What size wraps?

Only if it is mechanical. If it is wattage or TC the math works out the same. 180 / 6.4 = 28.125 * 1.1 = 30.9 Amps Your voltage is doubled on a series mod but your amperage capacity is averaged. With a parallel mod your voltage stays the same but amperage is doubled. Either way we are only asking for Wattage out of the batteries so: 100 watts: 100 watts to atomizer with a .5 ohm coil is requiring the board to supply 7 volts Parallel batteries at 100 watts have a low cut off of around 3.2V (on most mods) in order to supply 100 watts it will take 31.25 amps to supply it. An "average" board is only about 90% efficient so we add 10% so it takes 34.375 amps total. In a parallel circuit it divided equally between the batteries or 17.1875 amps each. (100/3.2 x 1.1)/2 In a series circuit at 100 watts with a low cut off of around 6.4V (voltage doubled in a series) in order to supply 100 watts it will take 15.625 amps to supply it. An "average" board is only about 90% efficient so we add 10% so it takes 17.1875 amps (100/6.4 x 1.1) Sorry, I am sure that is clear as mud....

I think I should also add that I personally would not run any 2 cell device over 180 watts. This is 90 watts per cell. 90 / 3.2 = 28.125 * 1.1 = 30.9 Amps.

Yes! Sorry about that. My dad came over mid-post, and I got distracted. Thanks Earthling!

I agree with @FXRich I really like the HG2 or the Samsung 30Q. Before I make too many suggestions, I should let you know that it really depends on the Wattage you run it at. Your coil resistance has little/nothing to do with the draw on your battery. The Wattage/Joule setting determines how much amperage you are pulling from the battery. If you are running it at full capacity (200+ watts) I recommend you not using anything other than: LG HB2, LG HB4, LG HB6 They won't last long, but will be the safest choice. If you are running 150 watts down to 100 watts: Sony VTC5A (not the VTC5) Sony VTC4 LG HD2 Less than 100 watts: Samsung 30Q LG HG2 Samsung 20R LG HE2/4 I would buy them from one of the following: http://www.illumn.com/ http://liionwholesale.com/ http://www.rtdvapor.com/ https://101vape.com/ Here is a great chart for batteries:

She is correct. They have had trouble all of my life with it. I live in a small town, 26 miles away and it is much better here. Like the saying goes we get 20 inches a year, and you should be here the day we get it! True! My wife is definatly the type that would have waded out there... The fire department luckily had it blocked off. Those pictures were taken in Lubbock. The forecast shows it has moved out for the next 10 days. I will never gripe about rain, but I am ready for it to clear out. The bible is drying out pretty good. It is definitely damaged, but salvageable. Thanks for the thoughts everyone!

To be honest it is a very cheap bible. My wife's family was Catholic and switched to a Baptist church just a few years before they passed away. (one year to the day apart) It was her mom's first bible. It is just the sentimental value. That is the funny thing about our area, it is mostly gone. We never get this much rain in a short period and the drainage can't keep up. We are expecting more tonight, then a chance tomorrow and Friday. I think the thing that makes me the maddest is that no one told her. 7 cars in the lot got water in the interior, but my wife's was the worst. With 200+ employees, you think someone would have noticed. She is fine, a little sad, but handling it pretty good.

Here is a picture of my wife's car. The water got up to just above the console. The great thing is, she wasn't in it, and it and nearly everything inside can be replaced. The only thing she lost that is irreplaceable was a family bible that was her mom's before she passed away. It is drying, but were not sure if it will survive.

I agree with @FXRich I have quiet a few good tanks and the SubTank Mini has to be one I keep going back to. It is inexpensive and versatile.

I tend to agree with you. I don't think this is the end of vaping as we know it. I am optimistic that most of us, who have been doing it a while, will be able to continue, at least for the next 2 years. I am also optimistic because a lot can change in 2 years. I think with support of vaping organizations we could possibly see some changes. The groups I am concerned about are people who are just starting to vape, or those who are still smoking, who want to quit. The regulations could severely hamper their ability to keep/start vaping. I am also concerned for small businesses like @Compenstine 's He will virtually be put out of business overnight just because it will be cost prohibitive for him to supply us with great products. ( I do think his DIY advice and services can survive, as he would be providing no actual vape products) I personally will not be affected greatly by the regulations as I have enough supplies to keep me going for many years. I will not have my normal juice, but I can DIY something that is vapable (with Comp's help). I will also continue to purchase mods, tanks, replacement boards, 510 connectors, wire, etc. I would have probably bought most of them anyway since I am an overpreparer, with shinyitus....

like a lot of the people here, I am a stockpiler. I wouldn't go as far as prepper, but I am always "prepared". I have a little over 20 mods that I have collected over the last 2 years. I also have nearly 2 liters of 100mg/ml of nicotine. I don't have too many tanks, probably only 10 or so. All of the tanks I have are rebuildable. I am not panicking yet, but I am picking up things as I find them on sale.

Yes it has worked super! So far it has only kept dust off of my supplies, and my cat (Duct Tape) away from anything that might contain nicotine. It really isn't a problem, because he can't stand the fruity flavors I use. He dosn't mind "vapor" because he has been hanging out under a vaporizer for the last week recovering from an upper respitory infection. If I am vaping he runs from the vapor. I have to assume it is the smell of the fruit flavors...lol

Most of the time it is diluted with Propylene Glycol or Vegetable Glycerin, or a combination of both. Most people I know only use 100mg/ml Nicotine or lower. 100mg/ml is a 10% solution and while it is still dangerous, it is much safer than 999.9mg/ml which is the 99.99% pure nicotine. Nicotine solutions such as the 10% that i use are very thick and do not produce volatile fumes. This is why we must turn it into an aerosol using heat in our vape mods. When I mix, or even fill my tanks at home, I use my office. I have a cat that is super curious and likes to get into anything that he can. @Compenstine suggested that I use a tote to store my stuff with a latching lid. I also keep all bottles sealed, and everything cleaned such as beakers and graduated cylinders inside this box.