jasonculp

How long have you been at it? The Subtank Mini in my opinion is a better starter tank than an Atlantis, just because you have the choice of a 1.2/1.5 ohm coil, a .5 ohm coil, and a rebuildable section should you want to go into that.

Here is my first attempt at a RDA in Temp mode. I really like how you build on this mod. The juice well looks like it will hold a bottle of juice. I am not sold on the airiness, or the huge drip tip. I think it is hurting the flavor.

I hate when that happens. That's why I have a new iStick 40 TC...

I do not own either so it is hard for me to say. I have used Atlanis coils in another tank, and have vaped an Atlantis, so I can't really comment on the whether it is a good tank or not. I would recommend a good variable voltage/variable wattage mod though. It just gives you so much more control. You can go above battery voltage on the high side, and below on the low and as long as your battery is not dead it will provide a much more steady power to your atomizer. I don't really know which one I would recomend though. My favorite VV/VW is the ipv mini 2. I also use a Sigelei mini but it is only 30 watts and wouldn't provide a full range of power for your tank. There are a lot of other ones out there that I have no experience with such as the iStick 50, the SubBox Mini Kit, and many others.

It would be nice. But due to the nature of Kanthal, without a separate sensor, it is going to be nearly impossible. The Nickel is not too hard to work with, but you have to build massive coils just to stay in the .1 ohm range. I have dropped to 30 gauge just so I can fit it into the tiny atomizer. I am trying to use twisted kanthal and nickel and it is working pretty good. I really recommend it to anyone who doesn't mind making their own coils, or paying a bit more for nickel coils. Once you get the hang of it is great.

Normally when a battery goes bad, it will drop extremely fast. I had one just the other day (my first to go bad) that was fully charged and it only lasted 5 to 6 vapes until my mod flashed low battery!

I like the subtank in that 1.2 to 1.7 range. It works good with my juice. This is all changed with temp control. I am running a .16 ohm nickel coil now, but the temp is only around 400 - 420 degrees.

I do wish you had something else to try it on. A variable voltage or something to see if lower wattage would make a difference. If the mod truly acts as a "protected" mechanical mod, and had no boost circuitry, I do not see how that could be your problem. Remember energy is drawn from your battery, not pushed from your battery. The only variable you have to change your watts on a mechanical mod is to change the ohms of the coil. The higher the ohms the lower the wattage (at the same voltage). This is why a lower ohm coil generally puts out more heat/vapor on a mechanical. The most your battery can put out is 4.2 volts for a very short while it will soon drop with use. If it worked fine before I can not imagine what has changed. I have looked into the CF and can't find any information on it having any voltage/wattage control, except to limit for protection, which with your combination (battery/coil) you should not be close to. Do you have a backup, or a buddy who would let you test your tank on his/her mod? Another possible way to test is to take one of your ruined coils and burn it for a bit in steps to try to run your battery down a bit and see if you are overpowering it. The nominal voltage for an 18650 is 3.7 volts which gets you down to 27 watts. The initial 35 watts when the battery is fresh could be enough to burn a fresh coil. I'm sorry I am not more help, just grasping at straws here!

Just a thought. Have you dumped your tank, and cleaned it? I would also look at the connections from the atomizer to the pin and make sure they are clean, and have no burned spots on the pin and the insulator in the bottom. With a .5 ohm coil on a freshly charged 4.2 v battery assuming it has no sag and no major resistance problems you should be only drawing a hair over 35 watts. The Atlantis coils should handle that fine if the juice can handle it. You might try dumping, cleaning, then priming a new coil with a few drops into the cotton of the coil, fill the tank, let it sit for a few minutes, pull a few draws without hitting the button. You should feel a bit of moisture from the unburned juice (without firing it) or possibly hear a bit of gurgling. Now fire it while drawing through it. Firing it while not drawing can cause you to burn a cotton as the air helps to cool it. This is about all I can think of, unless you got a new batch of juice, and it is possibly mixed wrong...

+1000 on the Samsungs. The best battery you can buy for a little over $5.00! The newer Efests, I am not having great luck with. (2800 mah) I bought 2 one died after very little use in a box mod, not a mechanical. The other is preforming about like one of my Samsung 25R's.

Welcome to Vapor Talk! We are great at this! I think that is one reason I enjoy it here so much!

Here is somthing new! It uses 2 removable 18650's Pasted from Here. 100W Eleaf iStick VV/VW MOD W/O Battery, it comes without battery, supports 5 - 100W, with ventilation holes especially designed for better heat dissipation. 100W Eleaf iStick VV/VW MOD W/O Battery, it comes without battery, supports 5 - 100W, with ventilation holes especially designed for better heat dissipation. Parameters Size: 100 x 54 x 26mm Variable wattage: 5W - 100W Variable voltage: 2V - 10V Colors: black, silver

Well it isn't for me. I am also tired and my work is a bit sloppy tonight. I took a 12" peice of 28 gauge Kanthal and a 12" peice of 28ga Ni200. The Kanthal was 5.37 ohms and the Ni200 was .33 ohms I tested by making one loop (not touching) in one set of holes in an RDA and then the other. I then put them both in together (not touching) and the ohms were .33. I then twisted them together and it stayed at .33. This can't be correct, because I can build much smaller coils from the twisted. The only thing I can think of is the kanthal is making better contact with one of my screws causing the resistance to rise. I guess I should have done it with smaller pieces. Never mind. I can't say if it takes less coils or not, because I used 30 ga Ni200 in my twisted wire. All of my other coils were made from 28 ga. So the comparison is invalid.

Dangit.... Adversarious1 now you have me curious. I am going to have to look into the "why". I need sleep tonight....lol

I totally agree with Earthling. The 1.2 and possibly the lowest airflow setting will be much better for MTL hits. I started that way, and now I am doing lung hits (be careful, it is addictive IMO). In fact, it will be hard for me to go back. I am cutting my nic down quite a bit, but I am going through a lot more juice (this will be good for Comp..lol)

I think you are correct. The temperature coefficient resistance of kanthal is nearly nonexistent. A 1 ohm coil at 212 degrees (F) only goes up to 1.01 at 932 degrees (F); whereas, the a .1 ohm Ni200 coil at 68 degrees would be 428 degrees at .22. I have no way to check what my kanthal coil's resistance is compared to my Ni200. But the Ni200 is the path of least resistance, unless the heat makes it higher than the resistance of the Kanthal (if it does). This has to really screw up the numbers...lol. I want to try some of the other wires out there that are available. I am a little sketchy on the Titanium. I have read a lot of bad, and a lot of people who say it is safe. 317L stainless is another option, but would require recalibrating the temp curve (way beyond my abilities) and NiFe30 as used in a Dicodes Mod (too expensive). I wish I had the money to blow on one of thesemods, the ability to customize it is amazing. Using settings you can adjust it to be accurate with any of the wires above (except Kanthal). If you have a few hours to blow, google it and find the paper they wrote on temp control, it is fascinating! It explains it so well. I just wish there was somthing that had a bit more resistance than Ni200. That is why I am adding the Kanthal. It can be frustrating to build such big coils. The one I was just messing with was going to take nearly 20 wraps each coil, to do a dual coil (.15 ohms overall resistance) I clipped the wire on the last leg...got p *** d off and came back to the den...

To be honest...I doubt it is a good home, but I can only hope. I still have one in my "fix it later" drawer that is disassembled, right next to an iStick 20, and my ipv mini V2. I need to get into gear and put some stuff back together. I also gave her one of my best 18650-25R's. I ordered 4 more today. I lost 2 18650's in the last week, one was a new Efest 2800 mah. It has been wonkey since the day I bought it. It finally gave out. The other was the PIF. I hated to do it, but between it, my VaporShark, and my Sig Mini, it gets used the least... On a side note, been running this iStick 40 watt TC mod and I am pleased so far. (3 hours isn't much of a test) I think it is going to be a great, cheap (34.99) beginner TC mod, it is working flawlessly.

Great Vape Mail day! I got some juice from Comp, an iStick 40 watt TC, and a Velocity clone. I was really needing some backups, PIF a SubTank mini, my last Nautilus, a iStick 20 and a Cloupor Mini last night.

Thanks Bebop! I have been absent all day. Yes I am running it in Temp mode. It seems to screw up your temp readings a bit (like they were actually accurate anyway) I just adjust it to taste/heat and set it there. My cheap zero mod really seems to like it.

This has been my quest. I have gone back to the Lemo 2 and Subtank mini with a twisted 32ga Kanthal and 30ga Nickel and really enjoying it. I guess I am getting to old and vision is going away. I can just barely stuff a single coil in these tiny RTA's (SubTank), much less a dual coil. I am anxiously awaiting some real reviews on the new Goliath V2 with the thing that blocks off one side so you can build it single coil.

Yes you can wash the coils, and I know a few who recoil them. I rince mine in water, then soak them in Pure Grain Alcohol or Vodka over night then let them dry over night. I have easily gotten a week out of mine using a very clean 80vg/20pg juice. I honestly have never used any Max VG juice in them. I am not sure how it will wick with it. I have read of people piercing the wick with a needle to help it wick, but, I have never had the need. The .25 coils in OBS is supposed to have the best flavor and wicking of the 2, but it will not fire on your iStick. There are not many mods that will fire a .25ohm coil.

I have both the original SubTank Mini and the OBS T-VCT. I use the SubTank much more. The OBS has top fill, great airflow, and juice control. I really like these options, but the SubTank has better flavor from the stock coils. I bought the OBS to use on Ni200 coils (The RBA section). It is a bit easier to build nickel coils on. It also has better Juice flow. I think the SubTank is much more versatile and a better value for your dollar. The mini comes with the RBA, extra glass for the tank, the ability to use standard horizontal coils in both sub ohm or 1.2 ohm coils, and the new vertical coils. This is just my opinion. I really have no complaints with the OBS. I really like the original SubTank. I have not tried the new SubTank mini plus.

I am trying one of those right now, in my SubTank mini. I took some 32ga Kanthal and some 30ga Ni200 and twisted them. I put about 5 or 6 wraps on 3mm and it ohmed out at .12. It is working pretty good.

Welcome Wong Numba You will find we are very diversified group here and everyone is welcome. I think from your description you will fit in very well! I don't know if anyone else vapes NETs on here though. I, like you, and bcartervol98 i am not into the Vape Shop scene. There was an group that gathered at one that was a bit older and I enjoyed that, but it went out of business. I do inadvertently enjoy clouds, but it is just because I like 80/20 and 70/30 juice with very high airflow tanks. I like the thick rich vapor I get from them. I am very careful of where and when I vape because of it. I don't do it to "blow clouds" or to impress anyone. I also love new equipment. If it fits into my categories that I like, I will do my best to buy it. It has turned into a hobby/obsession. I don't know what you mean by a flavor chaser, I do chase good flavor, but I only use 3 flavors. I have my all day vape, and 2 flavors I use infrequently. I don't chase "new" flavors. I really think that this place will be a good fit for you. There are so many good people here, and so many different styles of vapors, and it is such a personal habit, most people here are very accepting of everyone's different choices!

I am with you on this! I don't catch a buzz (not that there is anything wrong with it), but, I do like the escape from my reality. My job, like many jobs, is spent making other people happy all day. It is nice to get home and escape from all of that.