jasonculp

I do....that the problem. I guess I am going to have to buy 2 at a time and order when one runs out!

I learned order juice well before you need it. I normally order when I get to 60 - 80 ml of my ADV. I thought I had 2 30's and about 20 left in my big bottle. I didn't. Comp has been rushing around to fix my mistake, but it isn't looking good! My juice should be here on Friday. I have drained all of my tanks (I know, not good). I have cut it with VG/PG and added a little more nic.... It looks like I have to go to the B&M tomorrow.... I would rather get a root canal....

With the iStick 40W that is how it is, but most others you set the wattage too. I think it was Rixter that likened it to a cruise control (but backwards) You set the temp to the maximum temp, this is your limit (cruise control), the watts are your accelerator pedal, how fast it gets to the limit. I hope that makes sense. Rixter did a much better job explaining it!

That is where the rub is. The mod is set at 30j. This is impossible, because it has no idea how long I am going to push the button. 30j is 30watts for 1 second or 15watts for 2 seconds or 10watts for 3 seconds. I know I am being nit-picky, and a bit nerdy...lol

Wonky a $ $ upgrade...lol For me, it is just one of the dangers of being a total nerd. I want to know how, and why everything works the way it does. When I was driving all day, I listen to books. When I get home, I read or take classes online. It is really a PITA sometimes. If I get into something new, it becomes all consuming to understand how and why it works the way it does. I think they were scared of Evolv's patent. (that is the Internet legend) I agree with your idea on the generic scale. Back when the 20W iStick came out, it was tuned to mean instead of RMS. This meant if you set it for your normal settings on another mod it was quite a bit hotter. I didn't understand all of the people griping about it. (except those who vaped lower than it would go down to) I feel like if it is too hot turn it down, not hot enough turn it up. I have 3 temp mods and I use different settings on each one. I couldn't prove to the nearest 100 degrees what the actual coil temperature is, and I don't really care. If it is setting of 500 degrees and it is too cool, I turn it up! When I read that, in my brain it was: If it's too loud you're too old!....sorry old time head banger coming out in me. Most electronic mods do this. Some will let you dial in anything you want, but only put out the maximum (or minimum) it can. Others limit it based on ohm's law (on the screen). What I am most curious about is can it tell due to the draw on the battery, and possibly the sag in voltage, when it is firing if the battery is has enough capacity to safely fire the mod. Most electronic mods have the battery sag meter when you are firing it, but can they go a step further and calculate the capacity of the battery based on this? I am just curious, as normal.

Me too lately. I don't know why, but it has happened the last 3 or 4 times I tried to do a build. It doesn't matter if it is on a dripper, or an RTA. I screw it up, get mad, and go back to a factory coil. I always keep 10 or so factory coils for any tank I have, just in case.

Cany, I am right there with you on the building. I have gone to the factory Herakles Ni200 coils in my SauceCode and the factory Ni200 coils in the SubTank Mini. I even went out and bought a new RBA for my SauceCode, and a Triton RBA for it too. I have only built 1 coil and it was a failure, so I went back to factory built ones. I think the combination of work, and stress has made what little patients that I have go away. I am promised some down time in December, but I will believe it when I see it!

I have never seen such a wonky upgrade. This thing has given a lot of trouble! I am sorry, I didn't mean to leave the impression that I didn't understand what joules are. I am such a nerd. That is my source of confusion. A joule is not an unit of power. I have read that P4Y has tried to use them interchangeably, which they are not. I agree there is probably 3 or 4 of us on the entire board that would be interested in the difference in watts and joules. You should have seen the treads discussing RMS vs Mean, or PMW and DC/DC stepdown...lol I think that is overall what worries me about the ipvD2. I think with it's limits set so low on the ohms, and high on the watts, a newish vapor will could easily put a battery in it that is underpowered unless it has other safety features built in. (which it may) If, for sake of argument, YiHi is saying that joules are the same as watts, and you use ohm's law to calculate it. .05 ohms and 50 watts would equal 31+ amps without calculating the 5-10% efficiency of the board. It does have a input limit of 30A and an output limit of 25A, but very few batteries are actually tested and rated for this. In fact most independent testing shows that nearly all 18650's that are rated at 25+ continuous are only good for about 20. The LG 18650 HB6 is rated at 30A but only 1500mAh, the Aspire ICR 40A is rated to 40 but testing shows that is is near failure at 35, The VTC3 and 4 are both good at 30 but show signs of damage (if you can find genuine ones). I am not worried for myself. I have a fairly good grasp on the limits of my batteries, and builds. I mostly run VTC4s and 25R's. I am worried about the newbie who ends up buying one of these and puts a generic 18650 in it that isn't rated high enough.

Yes. It is a Tobeco clone. I use an RDA so infrequently, I didn't want to spend too much. I don't remember it cutting the wire, but it may have. I didn't do anything to the screws. It seems like most clones, and even some originals, have super sharp screws in them. I normally file them down, but I have not on this one. It is a shame it takes so long, and you have to go through that process just to get it. It will be worth the wait though. You will enjoy it!

I have a Velocity clone and I love it. I have only done 1 build on it. Here it is: The airflow is amazing, in fact a little too much for me. I took the built in drip tip off and use the adaptor, and a standard drip tip. I only open the lower holes on the airflow and it is plenty for me. I love the build deck. I think all RTAs and RDAs should be made this way.

I agree. I think that is one thing I have against the new D2. Joules. I don't have a clue how safe my mod is at 30J. Honestly I know it is fine, because my batteries never even get warm. I guess if @Squid is correct, (I have heard many other people say that too) and 1J on the readout equals 1 watt. I am way under limits. Even if 50J (max) = 50 watts, I am still well under 20A. I am like y'all on the batteries, no need to take unnecessary risks! I now only buy them from battery people, not vape places. I have been burned a few times with rewraps. I really want to try some LG 18650HG2 3000mAh. I have not seen any tests on it yet, but 20 amp continuous, and 3000 mAh sounds good!

I am assuming you are running a higher temp than I am. I am only running 475. If I push it up to 550 the resistance goes up.

It does seem like an EVOD would be a beginner device now. I went from a 1.5 ohm coil in the SubTank mini, to the .5 part time. I really think the 1.5 was better. Now that I am doing temp control everything is subohm. It is just the nature of the wire we have to use to do the temp control coils. I think one day these rigs will be the norm once they get all the kinks worked out. The iStick 40 TC is close to a perfect beginner temp control setup. No watts to adjust, just the temperature. Dial in how hot you want it and push the button. It stays at that temp until you adjust it. When you run out of juice it will not fire anymore. Coils last a long time, but they cost quite a bit more. It is pretty simple!

You are kinda correct Watts are Joules per second. That is why I don't understand why they use it for measuring power. I have 4 of them in rotation. So far they have not proven to me to be any more safe than a 25R or VTC4. So far the Efests are the only battery I have had fail on me. The first quit taking a charge, the other vented in a mech with a stuck button (totally my fault and kinda on purpose...alcohol might have been involved). I am not convinced of the advertised amp ratings, of course this is just my opinion and I have noting but anecdotal evidence to back it up. I also keep 8 25rs, the 4 (35A) Efests, and 4 vtc4s charged, so I don't have to charge except on the weekend I am sorry if i didn't word my post correctly. I was mostly curious about the mod itself. If it could somehow tell if my battery was capable of providing enough amps for the given settings. This makes sense! I was outside on the cell phone, chain vaping and it was close to 100 degrees. I am using the Herakles .2ohm nickel coils it was locked at .22 ohms. When I chain vape, there is times it hits .54 ohms and it takes a while to cool off. The .3 ohm upper limit makes it easy to blow through. Dang I hate this new update!

We were discussing new electronic mods in a thread below specifically the ipv4. I was following another conversation on another site the other day about the specific mod I am using the ipv D2. They were discussing the use of a 20 amp battery in this mod. The specifications are .2 ohms to 3 ohms in power mode, and .05 ohm to .3 ohm in temp mode. It goes from 7 - 75 watts in power mode and 10 joules to 50 joules in temp mode. I understand what the joule measurement is, but it makes very little sense to me in this application. I know watts. If I am looking at this correctly the mod can use a .05 ohm coil with a max output of 25 amps which would give you 31 watts. I have been scared that the mod might draw more from the battery than it could supply, making it dangerous. Today I swapped batteries with a fresh one. It wouldn't work. I pushed the button and either nothing would happen, or the screen would say CHECK BATTERY i just assumed my mod had fallen victim to bad QC or somthing. I was really getting discouraged. I went back to my office, pulled the battery, swapped it....same thing. I was about to give up, when it hit me....turn it down. I turned it from 30 joules to 10 and it worked. Since I don't know how to calculate joules into ohms law I just went with battery voltage. It could have been as much as 19 amps. (.22ohms and 4.2volts) I have a 20amp battery in it. I am really curious to know if this is what is happening. I do not have the tools to measure the output. Any ideas?

Good job! It really feels good to help someone who really needs and wants help! Years ago I was in Narcotics Anonymous (I know I am not being anonymous) my sponsor was a 20+ year heroin addict. He went thorugh many different rehabs, programs, etc. He said in his opinion heroin was much easier (mentally) to quit.

It is like using a dual coil sub-ohm dripper, but with a tank. The flavor, the amount of vapor, and the effects of the nicotine are magnified. I can use 24 in my subohm tanks, but it would make me nic-sick pretty quick. I was just using straight VG to cut my 24mg down, but I like the added flavor, so I just get comp to cut the amount of nicotine in my juice. I really don't understand what mechanism causes it to have so much more of an effect, but it does. More vapor possibly? I am running at .22 ohms and 40 watts or so. I have my temprature set at 425 degrees, the mod adjusts the wattage/voltage as needed so I have no idea how many watts/volts it is running at. There is also airflow. I poped a nautilus on my istick a while back and tried to vape it. The image of golf balls and garden hoses came to mind. The Nautilus (wide open) felt nearly as restriced as my current tank with the airflow nearly completely closed.

I have not been here that long, but it is definitely home. It really seems to go through swings of being busy, and dead. I am not active, but frequent a few other boards, and they have declined too. I still think the majority of people, who I see locally, vape just like you. It is concerning that B&M's and most websites promote the subohm rigs for newbies. I feel like I stepped up fairly rapidly, and I probably would not be subohming constantly if it was not for temp control. I personally feel like you have a lot of knowledge and experience to add to the board, bcarter! I had trouble with this for a while. I buy all of my juice from Comp, so that is not an issue. I would try to steer people to the VT store all I could, but it got where the equipment was not staying current, so I had to steer them to other places. It seems to be better, but not keeping up with the other online stores. I can understand, there is just so much money for inventory, and in the crazy word of vaping things change overnight. It would be easy to end up with a bunch of useless inventory.

I am kind of with Comp on this. I have gone from 24mg to 10mg, but I am using sub-ohm type equipment. I do vape a bit more than I did too, due to how much more I am enjoying it. I guess I have really cut back, because even though my nicotine level has been cut in half, I don't use twice the liquid. If that makes any sense...

If you are a sissy, so am I! I don't fire my Ni200 coils either. I still do Kanthal, but not Ni200. I think you are correct. I guess sometimes I don't think things through!

It looks good. My wife and I have been talking about it all day. She just asked me if I wanted to run get a couple and smoke them tonight (while she sleeps) It would be 10:00 before we got home tonight....lol

Thank you! Wow I really like that! The RBA looks to be close to the size of the Lemo 2. With better airflow? Top fill. Huge capacity. I think I will get one soon!

Thanks for the offer, but hang on to it. I will order some when I find them available. I was thinking of getting the TFV4 kit from SweetVapes, but I have not shopped around. Are the Triple and Quad coils temp control? I have been using the Herakles coil for over a week and it is still going strong Temp control really helps in coil life IMO. The single RBA would be great. I have not seen it apart with photos. Is the airflow good? I find my Lemo 2 and original SubTank Mini a bit too restrictive.

I have been following a thread on another board and it looks like it is about 50/50 who got the sleeves and who didn't. I do wish I had gotten one since my last P4Y mod's paint fell off quickly. I am really liking it though. I have been looking at the TFV4. It looks mean with the triple and quad coils. Are they Ti or Ni? At $24 for 5 they are a little steep. I really like the way you fill it. I am spoiled to top fill, and they took top fill to another level! Keep us posted on how you like it.

You should be fine at that setting if you are using good batteries. 5.1 volts at .2 ohms is 25.5 amps, but I doubt very seriously you are actually pulling that many amps, due to the temp control. At 50j it is limiting very quick. I am running my SauceCode with Herakles coils at 475 degrees and 30J. I don't really know how to calculate Joules/Amps/Watts. I am only using a single battery. The SX330 has a 40 amp limit, but from other reports I have read it will cut off well below that if the battery sag is too great. I have no way to test this and I don't have an ipv4. There is a lot of saftey built in to today's boards. I would check the batteries after a long vape and make sure they are not getting warm. With temp control by the time you reach 500 degrees your resistance should climb to around .6 or higher. This drops your amps to 8.5 or so. Temp control really changes the calculations. I realize that ohms law is ohms law, but, the chip is measuring things thousands of times a second (i am guessing) and making adjustments very quickly. High wattage in this type of device is much safer than a mechanical mod.