jasonculp

They have so much neat stuff now! I was watching a project at one of the plants I take care of last week and they had both a conveyor for one part and a pump truck for another part. It was a mess though, as everyone who enters the plant has to have safety training, safety clothes (FR), and H2S monitors. They only had 4 drivers that were certified, with the PPE to get in. The contractor thought they would just waive the rules, but they didn't. Those 4 guys stayed really busy trying to bring trucks in and out.

IMO, the best out there right now has to be the 30Q or the HG2. Both serve me well. I have bought a few of the others that are rated higher, but don't seem to be any better.

Great job!

$43.95 for 120ml

@FXRich has it correct. You can only check the voltage with the meter. To see how good a battery is, it takes some pretty sophisticated equipment. There are some chargers on the market that will do a charge/discharge cycle to show it's capacity.

I went through a Ti phase. I did like it, but quickly moved to SS. I have now moved back to Kanthal, because the NEBOX sucks at TC. I may check out some of the newer SS Clapton coils. I have been enjoying some of the best flavor I have had with my NEBOX using NiChrome/Kanthal Clapton coils.

I like it! I am definitely in the "Crank it up" camp

I do like the Crown. It really is my go to tank. I use the NEBOX as my daily driver. It is much closer to a SubTank Mini. The Crown is a much more open tank. I use the RBA most of the time, but the coils are really good. I normally run it with the airflow on about half. I hope you are as pleased with it as I am.

I am with y'all. I was talking to him 3 - 4 times a week up until early july, but have not heard a peep since then. @cany did get a hold of him a month or so back and said he was in good health, just busy. I hope all is well and he is back around soon!

Cool! I am glad to know that. I will be mixing up a 120ml tonight. I really hate to say, that you are only seeing a small part of it. I have all of my Vapocolypse stash (mods, tanks etc) in a locked gun cabinet, and keep my nicotine in the freezer. I redid my office a few weeks ago (at my wife's urging) and put all of my vape related stuff in these 2 built in desks (to the right of my desk). It makes it nice so I can close them off so nobody sees them, and I can also lock the side my mixing stuff is on. It keeps the cat and grandkids out of it. I glad she made me do it, as I am really enjoying it.

17 flavors and a Gallon of VG. I not really sure about the VG, but it was pretty cheap, and it tastes good.

I agree the data needs to be updated. One thing to think of with the configuration of the batteries is that with a regulated mod it really doesn't matter. As you know, on a series mod your amp value is the that of the single battery (2-20A batteries in a series has approximately 20A capacity @ 7.4V) with a parallel mod you spread the load between the batteries (2-20A batteries have a 40A capacity at 3.7V) The funny thing is the math works out the same for both - 75W/7V*1.1=11.79A pulled from the batteries in a series mod & 75W/3.5V*1.1=23.57/2 cells = 11.79A in a parallel mod. Now something I really need to figure out is how a triple 18650 mod works. Are these regulated only? I checked the RX200 the other day and they are wired in a series, so you have 11.1V available. The DNA 200 is the same way with a lipo pack or. How would one correctly calculate the battery draw on it. I have always calculated it like the normal Variable Wattage mods, but am not 100% sure this is correct. It does have a 2 completely different circuits, but, I don't know... TC does add a layer of safty and complexity to a mod. In preheat you might exceed you max amperage draw for a split second, but with all of mine it quickly regulates the power (watts) quickly down to maintain temp. So your amp draw should be much less, but this has never resulted in a longer lasting battery, for me anyway. Sorry, I go all nerdy at the drop of a hat! I really can't explain why your batteries would degrade that fast. I have not had many batteries that have "gone bad" on me. In fact most of the time, they just die. I feel like you will like the HG2s much better than what you have. The 30Q is exactly the same as the HG2 in my opinion. (there are differences, but I have found that due to the popularity of the HG2, I could pick up the 30Qs cheaper

I struggled with with this quite a while. I was originally taught to calculate everything like a mechanical mod, but it didn't make sense. How could a battery at 4.2 - 3.5 Volts supply 6+ Volts to the coil. It took an "old timer", from another board, quite a few posts to get it beat into my thick skull...lol The battery can't supply a constant voltage, but it will supply a constant power (watts). You are exactly correct, as voltage drops, your Amps go up. The difference at 75 watts goes from 19.84A with a fully charged battery (4.2V) to 23.81A with a battery at 3.5V. I am like you, I really enjoy the nerd discussions. Poor @Edna gets caught up in my OCD, Nerd Rant when she is just asking about how to extend battery life...lol Bottom line for you @Edna is that if you are using a regulated mod and running 25 - 30 watts, a HG2 or Samsung 30Q batteries would be a great investment for you. You will notice a difference. I run a NEBOX at 25 watts. With the HE2/HE4 batteries, I change them before I leave work (5:00) but with the HG2 or 30Q, I normally change them late in the evening around 9:00 - 10:00. I personally keep 6 (or more) charged at one time, but I never know when I am going to have to jump and run out of town for work.

If you are talking variable wattage, your coil has absolutely no bearing on the amount of amperage pulled from your battery. At 75 watts on a single mod with any coil you put on it with a 90% efficient board will pull around 23.6A from your battery. 75 watts / 3.5V (low cut off for most mods) * 1.1 for 90% efficiency = 25.6 amps. Please feel free to check me out at Steam Engine Make sure to change the settings to Regulated Device and Power Regulation (VW). I also change the voltage to the lowest voltage most Variable Wattage mods will run (3.5 Volts) this is the most dangerous time for a battery in a Variable Wattage mod (Exactly opposite of a Mechanical). You can then run the atomizer ohms up and down as much as you want and you will notice that the battery drain does not change. The reason for this is simple. A Variable Wattage mod has a DC/DC converter, some use Pulse Width Modulation, some are just direct DC/DC (think of a 12V to 120V converter). This is why using the example above with a 1 ohm coil you can supply 8.66 Volts to the atomizer from a 3.7V battery. (Ohm's Law = 1 ohm @ 75 watts requires 8.66 volts) in order to supply 75 watts to the atomizer, you must pull 75 watts from the battery. If you use Ohm's law again, you see that it requires 21.43 amps at 3.5 volts to produce 75 watts. We then must add about 10% for losses in the DC/DC converter so you come up with 25.6 Amps drawn from the battery. I have seen people say that Ohm's law does not apply to a Variable Wattage mod, but this is untrue, Ohm's law is a law. It is just must be applied correctly, or it can be dangerous. If you try to calculate a regulated mod like a mechanical mod 3.7V with a .2 ohm coil is close to 68.5 watts and 18.5 Amps draw on the battery, but on a regulated mod it requires 21.52 Amps from the battery. One more important fact is a Mechanical Mod gets safer as the battery drains (less amps) a Variable Wattage mod gets more dangerous as the battery drains (more amps).

The Pico and 60W is safe as long as you don't run it over 60 watts....lol Ohms of your coil makes no difference in battery draw in a regulated (or temp control device) only the watts you have it set at. HG2's are a great battery, and I might suggest a Samsung 30Q which is equally as good of a battery. It is only rated at 15A but tests show it's discharge rates are equal to the HG2. I still run HE2s, and 25Rs and I can tell I get noticeably less run-time than I get from my 30Qs and HG2s. I would second what @Adversarious1 said. I would get at a minimum 2 more. This also makes them last a bit longer as you spread the charge/discharge cycles over 4 batteries. I am not organized enough to keep up with what battery goes to what mod, but I do put the date and where I bought it on each battery.

I have become pretty boring. Just one juice, just one mod at a time (most of the time) I carry a NEBOX everywhere I go. I have a small vape bag that I carry with me everywhere I go, it has a Wismec Presa 75W and Uwell Crown tank, another Nebox, 4 18650s, 30ml of juice, a small box with 2 Kangar RBAs and 2 Crown coils, in it. I also carry my i4 charger in my truck in case I need it. At home, I use the NEBOX most of the time, but I keep a VTC mini with a Velocity dripper next to my chair for a coffee hit every once in a while.

I want one of those so bad, but I have 3 NEBOXs in a cart for $20/ea and just cant pull the trigger. (We are on a new budget, and it is killing my shinyitus)

@Bebop, for the life of me I can not find the article that I read about that. It was not only talking about the heat, but the chemical reaction that takes place when charging. I doubt it makes much difference, as we use our laptops, phones, etc right after charging. My batteries to tend to get warm when charging, but I normally charge at 1A. It is a habit I have been in lately. I can charge 10 at a time, but my Nitecore only charges a .375ma with 4 batteries, and my Efest at .500ma with 6 it takes so long! I have been the Efest with 4 batteries only at 1A to save time.

I just took all of my fruit flavors, opened one, if I liked the way it smelled I put a ml in. When I finished, it needed something, so I added a little combination of cream flavors. It has been pretty good. It is the only recipe I have ever mixed that I can vape for an extended period of time. That is a good idea! I got mad the other day and dumped all of my bad batches.

I am also using my latest DIY. I really don't have a name for it. It has nearly 17 different fruits and cream flavors in it....lol

It is best to let it cool. I like mine to sit at least 30 minutes. Heat is the biggest enemy to your batteries. If I only had one mod, I would buy 3 sets of batteries. I would keep one set charging(not unattended), one ready, and one in the mod.

Welcome Back!

I have the Tobeco Velocity Clone. It is the only dripper I use, but I don't use it often. Mine is an excellent clone. Clones of RDAs usually work fine. Clones of mods are an entirely different story. Mechanical Mod clones don't usually give too much trouble, but electronic mods can be a bit dicey.

You could be 100% correct. I don't know how it is regulated. If it is a constant (regulated) Voltage, or battery Voltage, you are right. There are quite a few of these new "semi-regulated" mods (for lack of a better term) and they don't explain exactly how they work. I guess it could be am falling out of touch with the newer mods. That sounds interesting! I am really not in the market, but it looks good. I have to have Variable Wattage, at a minimum. TC is nice, I just don't use it, because my favorite mod sucks at it!

You will be fine with the HG2s. 60 watts is about the upper limit, but still within the limits. A .5 ohm coil should be a bit cooler, but with that mod you are still pumping 60 watts through it. The battery life will actually stay the same. If it is set at 60 watts, your watts is what determines how much is being pulled from your battery. When a mod uses wattage as its "regulation" the coil resistance will make no difference. Stainless should work fine, as long as your build is within the parameters of the mod. Use Steam Engine to help you figure out what the best build to hit the target you are wanting. I actually have gone from Kantal, to Ni200, to Titanium, to SS, and back to Kanthal. I am running Clapton coils made of Nichrome and Kanthal. It is hard to beat the flavor!