jasonculp

It is definitely on my list. I was going to pick up another D2, but I may wait on the new Cloupor Mini. I have sworn off buying new tanks until the Cthulhu RTA v2 comes out....of course that could change...lol

Well as you can tell from my post...spelling isn't my forte either...lol My poor high school English teachers had a really hard time with me!

It really baffles me why they don't hire native english speakers to translate for them. Advertizements are one thing, but the manuals are just as bad. Of course, they couldn't hire me, my native tounge is Texan... It is rooted in English....but not really.

Here you go @Earthling789....it looks pretty good! It has a lot of new cool features packed into a body about the same size and the older one. Cloupor mini Plus 50W Please go read the site! Translations are hilarious. You would think these vape companies would hire someone in advertising in the US to proofread. Cloupor Mini Specs: 1. Dimensions: 77.5mm x 37mm x 22mm 2. Floating 510 pins 3. Stain steel 510 connector 4. Takes 1x 18650 battery 5. Magnets back cover 6. Output power: 1W-50W 7. Output voltage: 0.5V—7.0V 8. Joules range:10-50J 9. Mode: VV/VW/TC 10.Standard resistance:0.1-3.5ohm(VV/VW) 11.Joules resistance:0.1-0.5ohms(Ni),0.1-0.8ohms(Titanium) 12.Temp Limit: 200-600 Fareheit & 100-300 Celsius 13.Smart-auto Temperature Control 14.Standard package comes with one silicone case 15.Can be charged through micro USB port 16.Optional Left & Right Mode 17.Reverse battery protection 18.Over-charge protection

Wow...that is a great price! I had looked at those before, but I thought they were much higher! Thanks for the link.

It is correct that mods are getting very accurate, much more accurate than some of the older ohm meters due to the fact temperature control must be accurate down to .05 or so to work well. I still use a dedicated ohm meter though. It makes me feel better. Most mods require you to hit the button, to get a reading. Even though it may or may not apply power to the coil, I still would rather fry a $20 ohm meter over a $50 mod. I know todays mods have plenty of protection, but it still makes me feel better, and is safer. I always recommend one to a person who is just learning to build. People just starting out don't always have the best equipment, and proper backups. I also still use a mechanical mod every once in a while. I just like the form factor of a mechanical mod, and the simplicity when using a dripper. I actually use the meter as a platform to build on. It is just more stable. If you are looking for a good meter, and have the money to spend, here is a good one: USA ohm meters I have not bought one from these people yet, but I really want one of the 3D printed "Fire Meters"

I agree with Tam! Keep the reviews coming.

It is funny. I went months and months using nothing by the RBA in my SubTank Mini, and my Lemo 2. I now have gone months without being able to build a decent coil without loosing my cool.... So it was a heck of an accomplishment. I wish I had taken pictures, but I didn't think I would even have the patients to get it built. Whats more is I really like the way this thing builds and wicks! Pretty easy.

I finally built a decent Ni200 coil for the Triton RBA. I elected to do a standard horizontal coil, and it worked great. It is a bit a bit odd to wick a coil before mounting it, but it works. I wrapped the coil with one leg up, and one leg down, wick it about a mm on each side wider than the rba, tucked them in, and tighten it up. After priming it, and breaking it in for a bit, it is performing great. It feels good to get a coil built without loosing my cool!

I have had a lot of trouble with this. The ipv3 would tear up the top sides of my batteries. My charger has a tendency to mess of the bottom of the wrap. I have to be really careful to keep them in good shape. Luckily the D2 does not seem to have anything to catch or scratch the wrapper.

It looks like it may have shorted from the top cap to the edge of the battery, but I have shorted these batteries and it didn't cause it to vent. I guess if there was nick in the top part of the the wrap, and it was at just the right angle it could possibly short, but it really surprises me it vented.

I am glad it didn't cause any more problems.... you can easily replace the battery, and your shorts. Was it hot? Do you think it shorted against somthing? I have had them vent due to user error, and had them just die, but never had one vent while pulling it out of the charger.

I was a 2.5 - 3 pack a day Red smoker. A inexpensive eGo style spinner battery with a Kanger Pro Tank mini 2 or 3 with 36mg/ml would make me cough and the nicotine would make me dizzy. I can buy 2 complete setups and enough juice to last a week for the price of the "Mega Set" Once you buy it, you own it. You can change tanks, buy juice from any vendor, in any flavor, for a fraction of the cost. Refilling is simple, and the cost savings alone would be worth it. Most of us here have gone this route (changeable cartridges) and most failed miserably to satisfy enough to quit. After you have quit and no longer are dependent on all of the chemicals in cigarettes, and need a small stealthy portable rig, you might pick one up. It will help get you by in public, mowing the lawn, or working on the car, until you can get a real vape off of a "normal" setup. Here is an example of the cost savings: 1 - iStick 50W $29.99/ea (4400mah) battery 1 - Kanger Protank 2 9.99/ea 1 - Kanger replacement coils 5pack $4.95 You would come up with a total of $44.93 you still have $65 left over for a heck of a lot of juice or another setup for backups.... I vape quite a bit, and $65 worth of juice will last me close to a month!

LMAO.... I did warm it up. I actually prefer the oven, but it was still a burrito....out of the freezer.

Jeeze man.... I just ate a frozen burrito.... That looks so much better!

Bebop pretty much nailed it. Any of those would work great. I would like to add, be extremely careful where you buy them. There has been a rash of counterfeit batteries put on the market. The VTC4 and VTC5 are the most counterfeited but the samsung 25r's are both being faked now (25R2-blue and 25R5-green). Normally when a battery can handle high a high amp load, it suffers in capacity. High Amps = Low Mah. One of the safest batteries out there is a LG HG6 it is a true 30A continuous battery, but it will not last long because it is only 1500 mah. On the other end of the scale is the Panasonic NCR18650B. It is only a 10 amp battery that has 3800 mah. Most people find the 25r, HE2, and HG2 to be the best value. They will all handle 20A continuous and have a decent mah (2500-3000). These can be bought from $5.00 - $7.00.

I think you do a great job describing the juice and like Tam said it is so subjective. I have a hard time recommending juices too. I even have trouble recommending mods. They always work great for me and fall apart for someone else (or just the opposite) Thanks! and keep the reviews coming!

I think they are out of stock from the first order and this is a preorder for the second batch. I have been looking around...

From the pictures on Reddit it looked more like a thermistor (I really don't know if that is the correct term) It was encased in metal right below the coil. It wasn't as close as you would think probably 2-3mm or so. If you spot the D2 from a reputable vendor, that has it in stock for less than $45 let me know! I paid $45 + shipping and if I can get it cheaper I will pick up another. I am really enjoying this little thing. I have not tried it in power mode yet, just temp. I really don't need to spend the money right now.... I am in the process of putting parts together for a HTPC....

Tam, You can use a few different wires, Nickel, and Titanium are the most common, but sadly Kanthal will not work with temp control yet..... Innoken is working on a mod with a seperate temp sensor... so that it will work with any wire, but a special atty....

This really interests me too. I have been having a terrible time with the Ni200 lately or the wicking. If I build a good coil, I can't wick it...lol

Are yo looking for a tank, or a dripper? Personally if it is a tank, I think the SubTank mini is a great place to start. If you don't like rebuilding you can always buy coils. If it is a dripper, I really like th Velocity clone. Super easy to build on and massive airflow. Don't forget to pick up an ohm meter when you get your building supplies!

I had a friend over the other night, and his SubTank mini wasn't up to par. I threw a new coil in, filled the tank and fired it up at 25 watts. When the vapor hit my mouth, it all came back to me....you didn't prime the coil....dumb***. Nasty, burnt, disgusting, burnt coil flavor

I think I would be more inclined to get an RDTA. or With the new tanks like the Goblin, Goliath, Billow, etc you get the best of both worlds. Near dripper type vapor and coil setup with a tank.

I hate that you are having trouble! If you want to start a thread in Help It Broke section we can walk through some steps to get you going. The iJust uses an Atlantis style coil, and this type coil has been really good for me. Just something to try to get you going: Put in a new coilWet the coil good with juice.Add juice to the tank.Lock Resistance on the mod. This is important!Make sure everything is room temperatureMake sure it is in Ni200 modepress and hold the middle button to enter temp mode (it will show Ni and F on the screen)push the fire button and up power button at the same timethe ohm sign will turn into a lockAdjust the power to 350 or so and work your way up or down as needed. (The Herkales coil and my juice have to run at least 410 or higher)I hope this helps! The iStick is a good mod, but Temp control takes a few extra steps to get going.