jasonculp

It was a big Vape Mail day for me. I got a 30 feet of Ti 01 in 28 ga, and 30 feet in 26 ga. I also got another 5 Ni200 Herakles Coils. Then I got the BEAST! I have never seen anything like it. The TFV4 tank from Smoktec. I couldn't wait so I didn't take pictures, I wanted to try a Ti coil and the RBA. I did take some pictures of the coils though. Left to right: TFV4 Triple Coil, TFV4 Quad coil, Herakles (same size as Atlantis), and SubTank. This thing is HUGE. I am actually a little scared of this tank!

I didn't think about this in my post to the other thread. .7 ohm would be cooler possibly? YES!

This is just my assumption, but, the RBA does not have as good of airflow as the premade coil, and this forms more vacuum in the tank, which is promoting wicking. It could be a bad premade coil or you just nailed the wicking perfectly in the RBA. It all comes down to wicking, in my opinion.

I personally vote for the ipv d2. I really like mine. It is nearly as small as an iStick, but has a removable 18650 and 75 watts. (in power mode). That being said here is my next big expense (if I will quit spending) I think I will get a Cloudmaker I like the fact you can use 2 18650's or the Lipo, and DNA 200 or YiHi sx350J. It is a sweet rig! Truth be told...$200 vs $50 for another D2....I will probably get another D2. One thing I have learned about the DNA200 is the use of the new 900mah lipo's. They are 11.1V 3C cells. If I read everything correctly (I have not looked too deep myself), the cell is good for 23 amps, and using it on the DNA200 (at much lower voltages) it is supposed to have the equivalent of nearly 2700mah if you directly compared it to 18650's. I have not looked up the conversions myself. Ok, couldn't stand it: Wh = mAh × V / 1000 so, 900mah @ 11.1v = 9.99Wh 9.99Wh @ 3.7v = 2700mah

Cool! Let us know how you like it! I should have the TFV4 in here tomorrow, but I am also interested in the iStick. I have an original ipv3, but I don't like carrying it. I am thinking I may need something pretty powerful to run this tank.

I totally agree with you. I do the same. I really don't need over a 20 watt battery anymore. I still have some VTC3 which are the only true 30A that I own. I tend to err on the side of being overcautious. Good batteries are cheap and readily available. VTC4's are going for $6.00 each, HE2/HE4's are going for $5.00, 25R's are also $5.00. If you need more power, you can get a true 25A battery in a LG ICR18650HD2 for $5.00 or a 30A 18650 LGDAHB6 for $4.50. There are some less than honest people out there. If you look around you will see that there has been cells rated at less than 5 amps with wraps on them that said 20 watts. There have also been a few reported unprotected ICR cells (unsafe chemistry) sold as vaping batteries.

I have not seen any independent tests on this one. The 40A 2600 mah (purple) was tested to be only good for about 20A. The 3000 mah is rated for 35A. I personally feel that this is very optimistic. I don't know the battery, so I don't know which number is closer to correct. If it is actually 3000 mah then the Amp rating would actually be from 15A to 20A max. I have not seen any safe chemistry 18650 cell that was tested by multiple independent testers that exceeded 35 watts without damage. (if you find such tests please let me know!) The highest Continuous Discharge Rate numbers are around 30A and they have a mah rating of 1500 or so. Please be careful with this battery. There are just too many unknowns. If it feels like it is getting hot, or the life starts getting short, get rid of it.

I am going to have to try that. I have heard of it before, but was scared it would stink up my car. I am not secret about my love for the dollar store....it is a great place!

Let us know how it does! I am still chasing the elusive TC RTA (for me). I have a Chutlu V2 on preorder, a Smok TFV4 (for the single coil deck) that should be here next week, and some Ti A1. I am going to get this thing figured out!

Agreed! I really love the Sony batteries, and still have a set of VTC3's that are nearly a year old and run great. My VTC4's are holding up good too. This has to be one of the most misrepresented batteries out there! I have heard it said the VTC3 was good, the VTC4 is just a bit better, and the VTC5 is the best. This is not true! They are all different batteries with different specifications. VTC3 has a CDR of 30A and 1500 mAh VTC4 has a CDR of 20A and 2100 mAh VTC5 has a CDR of 20A and 2600 mAh This is why I recommend the 25R and HE2&4 they are rated as good, cheaper (usually), and counterfeited less. If you need more amperage the VTC3, LG HB2, and LG HB6 are all rated (and tested) at 30A CDR but only 1500 mAh. Here is a couple of good VTC5 articles: Warning: Sony VTC5s sold today are all fake. What is the best alternative to the VTC5? Sorry for the rambling posts.... I have really been obsessing over the 18650 battery and the battery ratings. There is so much "bro science" out there in the vape world. I really want to build a test setup to test todays batteries to failure, but I don't really have the time (or money). In my opinion the 3 biggest things that will get our smoking secession products banned or highly regulated is: 1. discourteous cloud chasers 2. careless juice storage 3. injuries/fires caused by improper battery knowledge/usage

I bought some VapeLyfe knock offs from Fast Tech that worked on my SubTank mini (original). They were not much narrower, but they were taller.

I personally recommend at least 2 of any of the following: LG ICR18650HE2 LG ICR18650HE4 Samsung INR18650-25R R2 (BLUE) Samsung INR18650-25R R5 (GREEN) And at least one of the following: Nitecore D2 Digicharger Nitecore D4 Digicharger Nitecore i2 Intellicharger Nitecore i4 Intellicharger I personally don't recommend any Efest batteries, especially for newbies. Efest has been inconsistent at best. They over rate the batteries that they rewrap and over charge for them. I have seen independent tests that say none of their batteries are close to the rating they claim. Is it true? I don't know. They have been the worst batteries I have ever had myself. I also don't recommend Sony VTC3, or VTC4, as there are too may knock offs out there. If you really trust the vendor, they are great batteries. They are highly counterfeited though. I think one of the more important things is choose the correct vendor. Stay away from most vape sites, and Ebay. Be very cautious on Amazon, as there are good ones and bad ones out there. The safest places to buy them is Flashlight suppliers such as illumn.com, or liionwholesale.com (IMO). Any of these batteries should be able to be bought for around $5.00 to $6.00 each. I would suggest you buy at least 2. This gives you a fresh backup at all times. This is another reason to get a separate charger. You can be vaping on one, and charging the other. I personally carry 4 everywhere I go, and keep 4+ fresh ones at home. Normally 1 will last me nearly all day. I am not a big fan of charging in the mod. I also discourage "pass through" vaping especially with a SubOhm tank.

I guess we will have to go pick up some Windex. I have not used it in years. We use Sprayway aerosol for everything glass around the house. I used to buy it by the case for cleaning the airplane's windshield on every load. It worked the best on them because of the foam. I had to clean it up to 10-12 times a day...I don't miss it! We used to bring them home from work so we always had free glass cleaner. Now that we aren't in the spraying business any more, the habit just stuck. I got the Invisible Glass hoping it worked better, but it looks like I need to go back to regular Windex. Thanks!

What do y'all use? I have been using Invisible Glass aerosol, with one of those "As Seen on TV" triangular microfiber thingies... It seems to smear instead of clean. I think the tool is working fine, just the glass cleaner sucks. (it works fine on normal stuff, just not vape residue) This is yet another downside to the larger vapor. With the Nautilus I didn't have to clean nearly as often as I have to now!

I really like the blue!

That is an interesting idea. I still have not done a complete autopsy on the coil yet. I just switched back to a Herakles Ni200 coil. I still have the new replacement Saucecode RBA. I am thinking about getting some 26ga Ti01 and see if it works better.

I have been reading that people are having a hard time, mainly with Ni200, on factory coils, and offset RDA's. The long legs seem to cause problems with temp control, and I got lucky enough to see it first hand. I think with Kanthal you will never notice it. It is a great RBA and I really like how you build it. Ok, now that I think about it, this is confusing me even more. Help me out here guys... I guess the liquid would transfer the heat from the coil much more efficiently than the air flowing across the leg. So the resistance would go up faster in the leg. Am I looking at this correctly? I think if the lower leg could be much shorter, it would work better, but it would be much more difficult to build.

I just learned first hand something I have only read about with temp control. Well it is more about Ni200 rather than temp control. I was getting ready for bed, unplugging chargers, taking medicine, etc. I reached down and took a big drag off of my mod (last one of the night) when I saw a flash or something in the mirror. I held up the mod in front of my face and fired it. Looking through the air holes in the tank I could see the air holes in the Triton RBA base I had in my tank. It was glowing! Well it wasn't the base itself, but the leg of the coil going down to the bottom connection. My coil is suffering from the dreaded "Hot Leg". The leg is so long, and it has no juice or wick cooling it. Apparently this is a pretty big problem, most evident with the RDA's with the offset posts. If you TC mod is acting wonky....you might check to see if one leg is much longer than the other, and it is getting hot.

I can provide very little help with your problem, but I can address a few things in your post. Flavors can go from tasting good, to bad overnight for no apparent reason. I have had it happen a few times. If it tastes good in other tanks that are the same, there must be something that has changed with your tank. Possibly something in the base? Changing wattage can change some flavors dramatically. Nearly all atomizers have some type of wick. It is the white stuff inside the vertical slot of the coil. Coil related bad flavors can come from something stuck in the wicking (cleaner, or oil or something similar) It can also come from a burnt insulator. If you changed the coil this should not be a problem. The length of draw is totally subjective. If you like a long draw or short draw it is the correct draw if it works for you. The iStick has a 10 second cut off, I think, so anything less than 10 seconds is fine. The charge time works pretty much the same way. The more you use it the more you have to charge it. I personally like to vape them until they are drained and plug in until fully charged. This usually requires 2 isticks though. I also don't charge unattended. I don't stare at them while they charge, but I don't leave the house, or go to bed with them charging. I do the same with my phones, and laptops. It may be overkill, but it makes me feel better. I hope you get your problem fixed!

I say that... Most TECC (The Electronic Cigarette Company) in this line seem to be Eleaf products see here: TECC I am looking around for more information. Most things I find are very positive about the tank.

It is actually a rebranded iStick and Eleaf GS Air tank.

That makes sense. I really don't like metallic tastes of any type so it really confounded me. I am not sure I would care for blood flavor, but you are not making it for me.

I don't DIY, and have no idea about flavors. I just have to ask WHY?

Yes they are trustworthy. I have bought a few things from them. Depending on what tank you have, there might be better, and less expensive options.

and so little money! This friggin' editor is driving me nuts...it is quoting...quotes.