jasonculp

That is a slick looking little mod. I can't wait for a full review!

I have only lost 1 25R completely, but I can tell that some are not lasting as long as they were. I normally put in a fresh one before I leave to work, then replace that evening (8 - 10 PM). With the HG2, I don't have to replace. I realize that is totally unscientific, but it seems to be consistent. On a side note, I have been leaving batteries in my ipvD2 overnight, and it seems to be slowly draining them. I think I need to start taking them out at night.

I have really loved my 25R's. My first 2 batches that I bought are starting to get a little weak. I have PIF a few, but I don't feel like it is best thing to do, so as I replace them, I will recycle them. I recycled my last set of VTC3's, but all of my VTC4's are still running good (they are all married). I think I am going to start replacing my 25R's, HE2's, and HE4's with HG2's and possibly 30Q's. I can tell a noticeable difference in how long they last. The HG2 preforms nearly as good (Total Amperage) as the 25R but lasts longer. I am also going to try out the 30Q's. They are only rated at 15A, but tests about like a 20A battery. Since I only vape at 40 watts I should be ok because that is only 14 A. ((40/3.2)*1.1) I have a pair on order, I will post my very unscientific findings as soon as I try them out.

I really like it. I bought it to go in the SauceCode. It is super easy to build on and the airflow is good. I would not recommend it for Ni200 builds though. The design causes the leg going up to be short while the leg going down is very long. This causes the long leg to glow red, when vaping, and I am not comfortable with. It works great with Kanthal though.

I went ahead and reordered. I am not sure if it was a good idea, but I did it. I am still chasing the "perfect" tank. From early reviews, I doubt this is it, but it might be a small step up from what I am using. I am also seeing the TFV4 Mini is fixing to hit the market....It could be interesting. I sure like the 22mm better than the 25mm.

There seems to be a pretty good availability of VTC4 and VTC5 cells on the market again. I try to only buy them from battery specific dealers. The VTC4 seems to hold a $2 premium over the 25R without a whole lot of benefits, except continuous discharge amp ratings. If you are keeping it in the 20A range the 25R is great, but the LG HG2 and the Samsung 30Q are edging it out with an extra 500mah, but they are usually $2.00 higher each. In the 25A to 30A range the VTC4 is king. It is a couple bucks higher than the other batteries out there, but it is probably the best in that range. Over 30A the LG HB6 seems to be the only one that is passing all of the tests. It only has 1500 mah though. I guess one good thing is they are cheap (around $5) My favorite battery shops lately are: Liion Wholesale (I have 4 on order here) illumn (I have ordered 12 since July) RTD Vapors (I have ordered 2 from them)

Jon at Liion Wholesale did this test at the request of a user on another forum, and it shows yet another factor we need to look at when comparing batteries. We normally look at Amps and mAh to know which cells to choose, but battery sag makes a difference too. This test is right in the range of a .2 ohm mechanical build or what a single 18650 variable wattage mod would do at 70 watts or so (regardless of ohms) Best 18650 battery at 0.2 ohm or 16-21A pulsed loads

Ok, I have been vaping the original SubTank Mini with a stock Ni200 coil. The tank will handle 40 watts and will hit about 400F with my Snow Wolf 50 watt. The problem is the coil will not. It seemed to vape fine, but I held it up in front of my face (so I could see the screen) and I could see the glow from the long coil legs. I don't like this. I personally am not comfortable letting them glow. The RTA won't have this problem, because the legs are so short. I also tried it on the ipvD2 and it does the same thing at the 40J setting. Just to let you know how accurate these things are, 400F on the Snow Wolf is about the same as 475F on the ipv2. I have no idea what is the closest to realistic.

Give me a bit. I need to clean one out and use it...it's been a while!

I have 4 different TC mods and none of them are set the same, even with the same tank/juice. My ipv D2 running a Project SubOhm SauceCode with a Herkales Ni200 coil, is running at 475F and 40 Joules. It really works great with my juice. Depending on what setup you are running, I would start in the 400/40 range and keep raising the temp until it gets to something you like. You may have to bump the joules too as you go. 475 and 40 works great for me, as I very seldom feel it limit, unless I am chain vaping with long drags.

Very high temps can be achieved when "dry burning" or setting and adjusting the coil, much more than while you are vaping. I have totally quit doing it, even with kanthal, but I have not built a kanthal coil in months. I have been using spaced coils with Titanium and Ni200 every since I got a TC mod. Here is a link to Brandon, from Evolv's explanation of the possible harms in using nickel as heating wire: http://www.tasteyourjuice.....-dna-40/ For the original poster, if you don't feel safe doing it, don't do it. None of this stuff has been tested for long term vaping use, but I personally feel that my chances of dying an early death was much greater when I was smoking, than it is now. My latest check ups, and blood tests seem to back this up. We just had our yearly checks at work for heavy metals, and a few other substances, and I was perfectly clean. I really don't know if nickel would show up in it anyway.

You will enjoy building on it. At least I did. I made my coil the same size as the wicking holes (2.5mm?), wicked it tight, and it worked super. The only problem was how much longer one leg was than the other, so it made the longer leg glow red with the Ni200 and from what I hear, that isn't good. I quit using it. If I still built with Kanthal, it would be my goto build deck. It worked super in my SauceCode.

Great analogy comparing a coil to a light bulb! I may steal that one.

Done!

I really don't need another hobby either. I have about settled on just getting another 4 or possibly 6 bay charger. I will wait until next week and see how much is left over (if any) I really want to try out a few different batteries so it is making my budget a little tight...

They do make quality lipo chargers in the $50 range. I just seems when I find one I like it costs $129 and still needs a separate power supply. I am probably getting by good enough. It would be nice to get another charger, and a few more cells.

I saw the new 6 bay Efest. It does look cool. I like the Bluetooth, but I would probably only use it once. I guess it could be nice, my charger is in my office and I am usually in the den I have already charged over a dozen cells since yesterday. I have looked at a few hobby chargers, and I am seriously thinking about getting a iCharger 208b. I could charge up to 8 in a series using balance cables. It would also allow me to do some single cell logging. I just don't know if it is worth the extra $160 or so. It would come in handy if I get into something that uses lipo packs, which is very likely, I just don't know what it is yet.

Good haul at the mailbox today! It looks like LG and Juice day.

I was actually looking at getting an XTAR XP4. I may just buy 2 nitecore i4's. That will let me charge 12 at once. I normally only charge on the weekend. I charge 4 saturday, and 4 sunday, then a couple during the week (in pairs so they charge faster) I have been so busy, and I don't charge unattended, so it limits my options.

I guess I am just getting lazy. I really like the ease of pulling one coil out and popping in another. I also just like my old tank. It isn't for everyone, but it works good for me. I may give the TFV4 another shot this weekend with a normal (not twisted) Ni200 build. I do want a logging charger. I am really curious what is going on with my batteries, but the single cell thing is a deal breaker for me, unless it is just a test battery. I currently charge 10 a week just for my D2 and 2 pair for my ipv3 (I don't use it very often) I am shopping chargers because I just need more capacity, but I am stuck. I can pick up a new Xtar that charges at 1A per slot, or 2 Nitecores that charge at .375 - .5 per slot... It would cost about the same.

I did. I may regret it, but I have been chasing tanks, and none is doing better than my SauceCode with Herakles Ni200 coils. I change the coil weekly and it just works. I was enjoying the TFv4, but I think it it needs more power than my ipvD2 can provide. I am still using the triple coil on the old ipv3 and making myself dizzy (at home) I would like to do some testing. I have been following Mooch's blog over on brand X's board and really like the way he does it. It is the best independent testing I have seen to date, it is more "real world" when it comes to vaping. I have a few more ideas that I think would make it even more accurate for vaping, but would take much longer. It would probably take close to $2000 or so to build a good setup, so I will probably never do it. I am looking at 2 logging charge/discharge units but one is $139 and the other is $199, and really they would only do 1 battery each. I have been talking to a guy about building an audrino setup with 6 - 8 independent chargers (1A max) to log the long term capacity decrease. Even doing a charge/discharge cycle daily...this could take months... I have so many irons in the fire, and will be back on the road selling after the first of the year so I may just send some batteries to Mooch and have him do it (and possibly some cash) or give me 2 - 3 weeks and I will be on to something else...

I understand. As men, at least most of us, we take it out of the box and it should work. If it doesn't, we try the same thing again, at least 5 times. If it still doesn't work, we throw it across the room and cuss at it. If it is still functional after that, get mad, tell the wife about it. She then reminds us to look for the directions... This normally fixes the problem. I actually have a mod, that I chocked up to being a POS, because it didn't do what I thought it should do. Months later, I read I was doing it wrong...it works perfectly. It was in the manual...that I never looked at. I am in the same shape. I actually refunded my last preorder, and will buy later, after the reviews. I have been on a battery kick lately. I have 6 more coming in Friday, and have 3 pairs of different ones in my cart, just waiting for me to press the button.

Any time! Just keep us posted. From what I see I really like the looks of this mod, and if the mini is nearly as good, it is going to be really hard to resist buying one of each. I am trying to save money for some test equipment and a new charger...and new batteries, and on and on....But if you give this thing high marks, it may bump some of these "needs"

This stupid update... I posted another reply, and it combined them...a good idea, but can really cause confusion. I found a couple of videos and they do show the resistance lock. Try letting it get to room temp, then put it in temp mode, screw on the atty, push up and down power buttons until it says the resistance is set (just like the ipvD2). I think this will help. I know on my 3 mods that have this feature, it does some crazy things if the resistance is not locked. I have one that doesn't have the feature, but I think it sets it when it asks if it has a new atomizer. If you put a hot atomizer on and say new...temps are way off!

I have had a lot of trouble making dual coils work well in TC. It seems like if everything is not perfectly symetical you get hot spots. That being said, yours seems to be burning pretty much where it should (or shouldn't) in the middle of the coil. I know nothing about the Cloupor, but is there a way to lock the resistance? I know that is a big thing with many mods. If you don't lock it in at room temp it can cause it to run too hot or cool, not accurate at all. (some mods do not have this feature) If that isn't the problem the only other real explanation would be that it is just not very accurate. If you lower the temp to 400 or so and lower your joules does it work ok? I just went and watched pieces of 2 different videos about that mod, and I want one now! I think it would make a great home for my TFv4! Great features, the auto mode, dual 18650 and 80 watts in TC! It does have resistance lock, so let it cool to room temp, then put on the atty, push the up and down power buttons at the same time. This should fix your problem.