jasonculp

I personally can't verify it, but the Herakles coils fit my SauceCode, and so do the Triton Coils. Here is the list I have found (please don't hold me personally responsible if they don't work, it isn't my list) Aspire Atlantis Aspire Atlantis V2 Aspire Atlantis Mega Aspire Triton Aspire Triton V2 Smokme Subverter Mini Tobeco Super Tank Tobeco Super Tank Mini Vapeston Maganus. Freemax Starre Freemax Starre Pro. Anyvape SegaTank Anyvape Fury Tank Eleaf Melo Eleaf iJust2 Project Sub Ohm Saucecode Science of Vaping Eclipse Sense Tech Herakles. Beyond Vape Silo Beast EHPRO & Eciggity Morph Tank Amigo Donner 22 Vapor-Tek Morpheus Vapor-Tek Morpheus V2 Sunone Sking Square Thunderhead Creations-Thunderstorm Tank Ovancl Espole Playboy Vixen Gigue Aeolus Tank Gigue Aeolus Mini Some of these tanks use top treads on the coils so they are not truly compatible both ways. If I understand it correctly the Triton/Triton2 does not use the top threads (I don't have one, only the RBA)

Hi Jack, Welcome to Vapor Talk. Joules is an incorrect term use by the chip manufacturer to represent power. Just think of Joules as Watts for now. With the coils you have you should be running the D2 in power mode (Watts). You need to buy Ni200 coils to run in Joules (Temperature) mode. I would prime my coils, and let the mod sit with juice in it for a while, and start the mod in watts mode around 15 watts. Slowly work your way up, or down until you enjoy it. If you decide to use the Temprature Control you will need to get a Triton Ni200 coil, or a Herakles Ni200 coil (this is what I use in my SauceCode) There may be others that will work, but I know those 2 will work. The coils you have now are either Kantal or Nichrome, which will not work with Temp Control.

Welcome to Vapor Talk!

We finished up the cooking Tuesday night, thankfully I was only in charge of broccoli casserole, and green bean casserole. My wife was on pecan and pumpkin pie duty. We had a great meal with one set of kids last night, and my parents today, so we are basically finished for this year. It was a good Thanksgiving. Now like Dees...back to work. I have a few hours worth of stuff that has to be done today, and plenty to do through the long weekend. My wife has to work Friday - Sunday, so I might as well work. I hope every one has a great Thanksgiving! PS- In the spirit of Thanksgiving, I will be PIF 2 SubTank Mini's a 2 mods.... I hate to see a Vapor in need...

I am running 40 watts on my NEBOX, but, I only have it set to 380F. It hits 40 watts then quickly (nearly instantly) backs off to 12 - 15 watts. I am using a .58 ohm Ti coil. My current juice is 50/50 with 8mg/ml nicotine. I don't know if that helps

I have a pretty bad case of shiny-itus, but I still feel like I have saved quite a lot of money. Not to mention all of the other benefits!

I really feel like that is correct. The Ni200 coils don't taste as good when you first install them. I wait so long to change coils/rebuild, anything works better I have been wanting to get an ultrasonic cleaner. I had one years ago, we used it to clean fuel nozzles on PT6 turbine engines...probably wouldn't be any good for my vape gear, if I could find it. I think the next time I start buying stuff, it will be a cleaner, and a few more bases...and a backup NEBOX, and some DIY stuff...never mind....

That is what I have heard too. I quit dry burning (even Kanthal) a while back. I really don't miss it.

I really don't have a clue. I have been reading some posts that say Ti is more safe than Ni and others that say Ni is more safe than Ti. I personally am really liking the flavor I get from the Ti a bit better. I hope they get some grades of SS with the proper curves to work. (I think you can with a DNA200 and their software) I mainly went to Ti thinking I might be able to rewick without rebuilding, but it is really just as easy to rebuild. I need to buy a couple more RBAs.

There are way too many variables to determine the actual wattage it will take. The first limiting factor will be your juice. Some juices can handle higher wattages than others. Next is the ratio of your juice. If you juice is too thick, it will not wick well and therefore your coil will either burn your cotton, or melt itself. Airflow is also a factor. High airflow with plenty of wicking will all.ow the wattage to be higher. I guess the non nerdy short answer is, "It is just a suggested wattage range"

Remember the watts, amps, and volts you are calculating are at the atomizer. The drain on you battery is only based on watts. The higher the watts the more draw on your battery. It does not matter how many ohms you are running on the atomizer. For a good explanation check out Steam Engine Battery Drain and go down to the How it Works link and read a better explanation than I can come up with. I also tried to explain it in this post: http://www.vaportalk.com/forum/topic/27525-battery-draw-on-a-variable-wattage-mod/ I am using 26ga and I don't count my wraps any more 5 or 6 I am guessing. It is reading .56ohms on my NEBOX. I didn't try it on a meter, due to the fact the RBA will not screw on to a meter. I could have used the SubTank Mini's but I am lazy. (bad practice)

I am running Ti, but on a Ti setting. I ran it on my D2, but it required me to max it out on the Temp (in Ti mode). I also ran it on my VTC mini in Ti mode, and it would not get hot enough to supply a good vape. I switched back to Ni200. Then I got the NEBOX, and it was a bear to get setup correctly, but I am running it in Ti mode 375F and 40 watts. It is a great vape. It does tend to run a bit hot, but great for me so far. I have read a lot of people are having a lot of trouble with the NEBOX, but I am thinking about buying a few more...lol

Just got this: I am really enjoying it so far, of course I have only had it for a couple hours.

I have really enjoyed temp control. The D2 performs very well in temp control. In fact out of all of my TC mods it is the most consistent, and the most comfortable in my hand. The Evic mini is a bit neater, than the D2 with the better screen and upgradeable firmware, but in Ti mode the D2 just works better. Ni200 can be a bit of a challenge to work with but I have gotten very good results. I have never tried the Atlantis Ni200 coils, but the Herakles Ni200 work pretty good. I am currently in the market for a Crown, and RBA section for it. I am also thinking about getting the new Melo 2 RBA to use in my SauceCode, after I replace the glass. I broke 2 tanks in 2 days last week. Luckily I haven't broken anything this week!

I will have to agree that this is a great mod. I ran mine from the first of August to the end of September, when I got the Evic VCT mini (a good mod too). I switched back to D2 last week because it seems to handle titanium coils better than the Evic. I will probably be buying a few more of these for backups.

This thing is looking better and better to me. I wish I knew if the airflow was close to my Cthulhu. The last 2 weeks have been a killer. 6AM to 10PM 6 Days a week, at work, and many more hours at home. This week I broke 2 tanks, and one bent up my VTC mini. Thank goodness for backups. This thing would be great, even with a plastic tank, for me. I don't use any tank cracking juice.

Sweet setup!

Actually I think that is a step backwards. Mine (V1) just has the one big slot. The V2 has 2 smaller slots. From what I hear the V2 has better airflow. (If you are into that) I have been toying with the idea of getting the V2 base for mine, but I don't use my mini's anymore, except for backup.

You will get it! Feel free to come back and ask all of the questions you want. That is why we are here. We want everyone to stay off the stinkies, and to vape safely!

I am actually avoiding all of the work I need to get done before tomorrow. It is much more fun helping people on the web than it is to edit spreadsheets, and fix item numbers. This stupid computer system has taken over my entire life for nearly 6 months, it will be live 1 week from tomorrow, with or without all the problems...

The V1 tank and the V2 tank are nearly identical. The main difference is the RBA section and the airflow section. The one on the left is a V1. It has 1 large airflow hole. The one on the right has 2 smaller holes, one on each side. The one on the left is the RBA section from the V2. It has large holes on the sides to allow for juice flow. The V1 on the right only has the 2 small holes in the base to allow for juice flow. The 2 coils on the left are factory replacement coils, the right is the RBA.

RBA = ReBuildable Atomizer. - This is any type of atomizer that is designed to be rebuilt with a new coil or wick. It is also used to describe the the removable section that is exchanged with a pre-made coil. RTA = Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - This is a complete atomizer that coil section is designed to be rebuilt. RDA = Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - This is a complete atomizer that has no tank and requires you to drip e-liquid on the coil and wick to vape it. The part that provides the power to run it can be called many things: APV = Advanced Personal Vaporizer, mod, battery, device, and many other things. On the SubTank Mini. All version 1 were stainless steel only and had only 1 large Airflow slot, and the RBA section had no holes in it. Version 2 were stainless, black, white, and possibly other colors. The tank was the only real difference. The tank was the SubTank mini V2 and the Mod (the part that supplies the power) was a SubBox Mini.

Cool! Good Luck. If you have any more trouble ask away. I don't have that one myself, but I have quite a few RTA's, I will help all I can.

I had an RBA that used both the holes in the sides, and holes in the bottom (Project SubOhm SauceCode) it was very picky about having the cotton just right. If you didn't have the holes blocked (with the cotton) in the sides, and cotton touching the deck, it would leak. What is happening is the tank looses vacuum right after you fill it, or when you vape it down to less than a 1/3 of a tank or so. The holes are a path to the airhole under the coil and right out the airflow controller on the bottom of the tank. Laying it on it's side when under wicked can cause them to leak.

Normally leaking from the vents on a SubTank Mini with the RBA section is caused by improper wicking, not the seals. Popping is usually caused by the wick being too loose in the coil. I don't have the newer one with the holes in the sides, so I really don't know how to wick it. You might hit up YouTube for a Subtank Mini V2 RBA tutorial. It is a pretty easy RBA, but wicking it so that it wicks properly, and does not leak can be a bit tricky, even an art. There are quite a few guys/gals on here that use them, hopefully someone will be along shortly with some useful advice, sorry mine wasn't too useful