jasonculp

There have been a few times I thought we were a little harsh on pushing people to buy more and more backups, but now I know everyone was right. I have had a very hard few months at work, and very little sleep. I broke 1 mod, and 2 tanks in 2 days. I was very happy that I had a couple of extra tanks and mods. Luckily I only broke the Pyrex on the tanks so later that week I fixed them. The mod needed a bit more attention with a soldering iron, but I finally got it going too, but Payed it Forward the following week.

I am finally happy with my charging situation. I picked up a new 6 bay Efest and I am really impressed. I like being able to check on the state of my batteries from my phone. I also can increase the mAh of charge from my easy chair in the den. Now to build me a better charging station/battery tester/and vape stand....

It may be my imagination, but I think I can tell a slight difference in the LG HG2 Samsung 30q and the 25R's. I really don't think the difference is worth $1 - $2 per battery. The 25R also has a bit more headroom for safety. Looking at Mooch's latest tests the 25R exceeds the VTC 5 in both total Amp Capacity, and MAH, by a healthy margin. It also beat the VTC4 in MAH and was only slightly behind it in total Amp Capacity. It is an impressive battery. I have a couple HE2's and HE4's, but I have decided not to replace them. I have been reading that they are actually ICR chemistry, but have not found what I would consider a "reliable" source of information. I am really not too worried about it since 15A is about the top of my range anymore, and that is pulsed, not continuous. Has anyone else read this?

Welcome! The mod itself is getting pretty good reviews, but I don't hear a lot good about the tank. I have never used either one. It is true, and you have seen, that bigger is not always better. If the SubVod is working good for you, I would suggest picking up a SubTank Mini or a SubTank Plus to sit on top of the Fuchai. They use the same coils as the tank on the SubVod, and will give you a bit more tank capacity. As for the settings, you just have to kind of set it a bit low and work your way up. It takes some fiddling you will find a sweet spot. The juice suggestion is correct. If you were using a Kanger Protank or somthing with lower power and airflow I would suggest 18mg nicotine, for the SubTank Nano, you are right on the mark at 9mg. The other tank 9 may be too much. As you increase the wattage, and airflow you need to decrease your nicotine level. As you are fining out, there is an overall sweet spot where you are getting good airflow, satisfying vapor, and good flavor. Normally with factory coils you as you step out of your sweet spot you start loosing things, usually flavor as you go up in power. Since you are new around here I will give you the mandatory suggestion to buy backups, and backups for backups. It will save you! Welcome to Vapor Talk and feel free to ask questions, it is the best, safest, and cheapest way to get this stuff figured out.

The 25R is probably the best battery for the money at the moment.

That is one nice setup!

Interesting videos. You can tell he did a lot of internet research a while back. Many of his concerns have been addressed, and he is misinformed about NiChrome. It is probably as widely used, as Kanthal in pre-made coils, if not more so. He also missed the reports and study by Dr Farsalinos and Pedro Carvalho that shows oxidation of dry burned Kanthal coils has possibility of many health risks. There are quite a few developers out there trying to do a Kanthal temp control, and Aspire claims to be close, but it is going to take some big changes in technology. You need a different type of connector to couple an atomizer to a device. He also left out some of the more promising forms of Stainless Steel that is looking like they will have the proper coefficient of resistance to work with proper temperature curves. Bottom line is there is much unknown about the long term effects of Vaping. There is nothing that is totally safe to put in your body. We must weigh our risks to determine what is most healthy option for us. For me, vaping has been a God send. My health has improved greatly since I have quit smoking and I have the numbers to back it up. I forgot to add, we do cook with nickel, 304 stainless is 8% nickel. He also claimed that aluminum did not leech into food, it does, try cooking tomato sauce in an aluminum pot...

I don't know if it is just me, but I have been using the "chunky wicking" technique that became popular on another site, in the sub-tank mini thread. I make a 3mm coil, and gingerly thread 6mm+ of Japanese cotton into it. It is so tight it will distorts a coil a bit, and you have to spread the coils out (non contact). I then thin the ends by about 50%. It really seems to be nearly foolproof. I have vaped 80/20 and never had trouble, in fact it seems to work better than a looser fit (through the coil), for me. Is this strange? I have seen other posts with people having more trouble with the cotton too tight, but for me it seems to work the opposite. I get nearly no popping, and no leaking.

With a Variable Wattage (Regulated) device the ohms of your atomizer makes no difference in the draw on your battery, only the watts you have the mod set to. (It is not like a mechanical mod) To calculate how many amps is being drawn from your battery you have to take the watts and divide by the lowest cutoff voltage of your mod plus add about 10% for the inefficiency of the chip itself. So, at 50 watts max divided by 3.5 volts = 14.28 amps then add 10% and you get a max of 15.7 amps. This is totally maxing out your mod, but since you normally vape at 20 watts you are only pulling at the batteries lowest 6.3 amps from your battery. With a mechanical mod, your amp draw is at it's highest when the battery is fresh, a variable wattage device is drawing the most from your battery when it is the lowest. If you are a nerd, like me, and want to know why it works this way, here is a good link to explain why this happens Steam Engine Battery Drain go to the "How it works" link at the bottom left of the page. Here is the most accurate, and up-to-date battery test grades on the web, his testing methods are the best I have found: Mooch's Battery Safety Grades.pdf

You can only increase your volts past 4.2 in a mechanical mod if you use a series mechanical box. There are not many options out there. There are many advantages to a VW mod. First is most chips use a DC/DC converter and can boost the voltage to the atomizer quite a bit above battery voltage. The ipv D2 can put out 75 watts. It has a 25A and 7V limit on the chip. It will supply more Watts to the atomizer for a much longer time than a mechanical mod. It is also much more consistent. In a mechanical mod the vape starts hot and gets weaker as the battery gets lower. In a VW mod it provides the same Watts to the atomizer until the battery drops below it's cut off limit, usually 3.5V. Variable Wattage mods are also (normally) safer. They will not fire if they are shorted, they will not fire if they get too hot, they will not let you ruin an 18650 by running it too low. I love the simplicity of the mechanical mod, and will always keep a few around, but day in day out a variable wattage mod is just hard to beat.

I am with you on this! I do like mine, and will get another. The form factor is just too nice and works super for me. The bad thing is Kangar has not perfected the TC on this chip. It also has pretty muted flavor with the old style coils. I have only used one of the new style coils for a few days when it cooked itself. (Like I said the TC sucks on this mod) It is also prone to leak if you don't wick the RBA just right, and 10ml of juice is a lot to leak, or ruin if something goes wrong. I guess if you rebuild, and don't mind spending hours tweaking it to fit your build and juice, it is a good mod. If you want a grab and go, set and forget, skip this one. Hopefully if they come up with a V2 it will be better.

I totally agree with you. I have ordered another RBA, it just has not arrived. I rebuilt mine last night with Ti and it amazes me I waited this long. I normally go a week, and I have gone 2. I think I should be rebuilding a bit more frequently, the difference in flavor is amazing. I guess it decreases slowly so you don't notice how much it has gone down, until you change it.

Even though the NEBOX is my daily driver right now, I am not sure it is a good box for everyone. I normally run the RBA and have had pretty good luck with it despite it not being very good at temp control. I got lazy and dropped a factory Ni200 (Square horizontal) coil in it and I will say it tastes muted, and is not anywhere close to what I remember the SubTank Mini being. I am with @FXRich I would at the very least pick up a pack of the new SSOCC .5 vertical nichrome coils or Kanthal Clapton coils and run it in power mode. I would not blame all of this on user error, @GRLSNGR, this NEBOX, while handy, is not turning out to be one of my best investments.

Just run it all the way down until it stops, then click it again and it will switch to C

I am with @FXRich I think bump your temp up a bit and see if it tastes better. My juice from @Compenstine (Fadora Vapor's Frutti-Tutti) 50vg/50pg-8mg, and 60vg/40pg-8mg, seems to work best at 400F on the NEBOX. I am using a Titanium coil on the RBA at .55 ohms. Hope that helps a bit!

I am not sure why it would taste like metal. Changing the temp does bring out different flavors in the juice, but metal?

It was a good Vape Mail haul this week. Yesterday, I got a Liter of 100mg/ml Nicotine from Heartland Vapes. Today, this arrived: I hope to soon to get the other Liter of 100 ml/mg Nicotine from MFV and 15 Ni200 coils from SweetVapes. I didn't have near enough impulse control when it comes to Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales.

I hate to ask this, but have you locked in your base resistance? My mini did great with Ni200 but really sucked at Ti. I would have to max out the Temp to get it warm enough to vape (with Ti). I personally want to think it is a board issue. I have read about some people having some issues with consistency. I never had one with mine, but some people have. Also have you done the firmware updates for it? It seemed to help some issues. I hope they made some improvements over the NEBOX. I am not convinced this thing is limiting like it should be.

RTA? I really don't know of one with the airflow for 100. I have heard of people using TVF4 with the factory coils. The dual coil RBA might get you close, but I have never tried it. I have used the Triple coil at 75 and the single coil RBA to 50-60, but it is too much for me. You might look into an RDTA (Rebuildable Dripping Tank Atomizer) I don't know much about them. The only RDA that I have that will get that high is my Velocity. I made a dual coil Tiger Wire coil a while back that worked pretty good in the 100 watt range, but it is just something that really isn't enjoyable to me. With the proper build you can get excellent flavor, and enough cloud to fill a room at 50 watts or less.

Done here too!

I guess it is a side effect of being a nerd. To me is very simple, but the guy I gave my rig, a highly intelligent, very mechanical guy, went totally blank when i tried to explain why you can't use a Kantal coil in Temp Control. Honestly I will probably never go back to Kantal or Power Mode Vaping. I love the control I get from being able to set both the Temp and the Power. I can't believe I have not bought a DNA200 mod where I can even control it even more using their software. All that being said, most people just want something that provides a satisfying vape at the push of a button.

Turn it all the way down. It will stop then press and hold down again. This should start showing F and going down.

I would have argued with you on this point less than a week ago, but now I whole-heartedly agree. I PIF my Evic VTC Mini and a SubTank Mini with a 5 pack of Ni200 coils. I gave a really good lesson in TC. He finally had to go buy a pack of Kanthal coils and run it in power mode, there was just too many settings for him.

They will be fine. It is better to keep them married, or at least in a steady relationship. It is best to run batteries that are the same age, with the same number of cycles, and the same ratings together.

Any good 20 Amp battery will work fine up to 150 Watts. In a Variable Wattage (TC) mod battery draw is calculated based on amount of Watts you are asking from it (Not on the ohms of your atomizer, like in a mechanical mod). Most people don't spend much time in the 150 Watt range so a TRUE 20 amp continuous should work. 150watts / 7 Volts (lowest voltage before cut off with 2 batteries) * 1.1 for loss in the chip = 23.57 Amps I personally would run a LG HG2 or a Samsung 25R, or possibly a Sony VTC4 or VTC5.