Earthling789

One is not better than the other... it's personal preferences A top-coil produces a slightly warmer vapor because it's closer to your mouth, but as the tank gets lower, you have to tip it and roll it to keep the wicks loaded. A bottom coil does not have the wicking issues, but can sometimes flood the center tube. The vapor is normally cooler, but not always, due to your set-up (battery voltage, coil resistance, juice mixture, etc)

Heat is your major killer of juice in a tank like Protank or Nautilus... so with that much volume, I'd not worry too much about it going bad from coil-heat. Just vape it WAY down before topping it back off, so you're not mixing new with stuff that may have been there through several refills.

Vaping is in the headlines, it's Vogue, it's hip, it's rebellious... People rush to buy Converse hi-tops or Sperry's because celebrities are wearing them... The fedora is making a come-back as a fashion statement. You are 100% correct, there are (too) many people that follow the crowd (sheeple), and will try vaping because they see it in the media or one of their "cool friends" doing it. These people vape as a fashion statement, and will likely give it up as soon as the new, "hip" thing comes around. I vape to get my nicotine-fix, after 30 years of conditioning and addiction. If someone has a love for peppermint and wants to vape 0-nic peppermint, let them (as long as they are an adult, making an adult decision). Would I try it if I had never smoked? 100% chance of "NO"... I'm not a follower, and I don't care what the celebrities or sports-stars are doing! And no, I don't own any Chuck Taylor's or Sperry's, or a fedora, either

Sounds like the error message was correct. That Samsung battery has reached the end of it's life, and was not capable of storing a proper charge or delivering proper current. Showing 75% right off the charger is a good indication that it's time to toss that battery.

Exactly!

Tam, I'll assume Charles' statement was meant for sub-ohming? All the Panasonic batteries I have are rated at 10A, which (in a mechanical MOD) are perfectly safe for any coils over 1.0 Ohms. At 10A limits, the lowest coil these batteries could handle would be 0.45 Ohm, but I'd not trust them on anything lower than 0.8 Ohm (5.25A @ 4.2V), just to give a margin of safety by the "Rule of Two" - Use a battery of at least twice the load/discharge capacity of your expected average load. Now, specs on the Vamo V5 max at 6V, and is limited at 15W, The lowest coil resistance stated it can fire is 1.2 Ohms, and circuitry limits Amp output to 3.2A loads... which means Panasonic batteries are well within the operational limitations of the Vamo V5, and 3.2A should NOT heat up a 10A battery! To JSR27... More info would be handy to have... 10A Panasonic batteries should not be heating up your Vamo even if you push it to it's operational limits and chain-vape 10-second drags... What tank/RBA are you using, and what resistance is your coil? Are you chain vaping it? is it just WARM or H O T? Which "real" Panasonic batteries are you using? Model? mAh? Details are necessary!

Welcome to VT!

Nothing wrong with using a cartomizer... I regularly use BOGE XL's on an eGo battery when I'm working in the yard or cutting grass... nothing to break, no leaks, no problems!

Tam is correct... "snug" is all it takes. I've seen a 1.5 Ohm coil read 4+ because it was barely making contact... a little twist and it read correctly! When it doubt, it's always a good thing to have a standard multi-meter to double-check with.

My daily set-up, while working, is an MVP 2.0 with either a KPT2 w/air-flow-base @ 1.5 or 1.8 Ohms or an AeroTank @ 1.5 Ohms. I recently bought a Russian 91% (and have another on the way) and two Mech Mods (Copper Penny and Windrose). I'm still playing with the set-up to find my sweet-spot on the Russian But, I see them easily becoming my "work" set-ups, and the MVP/Kanger setups becoming my "traveling companions" to bump my eGo's and KPT3 minis to back-ups, or for extreme portability.

Welcome to VT!

Welcome to VT! And, congrats on moving away from smoking! I highly recommend a VV battery, like the Vision Spinner, Spinner2, EVOD Twist, etc. Get at least 1000mAh size, so they'll last all day, and always always always have a back-up handy 1300mAh Spinners are a work-horse! The EVOD2 tanks are really good, also. They are dual-coil, so the coils will cost a bit more than the single-coil ProTank coils, so I'd recommend also looking at Kanger ProTank 2's and ProTank2-mini's as well. They are single-coil tanks (Pyrex, not plastic), and work very well. Resistance of the coils will do a couple things for you... higher resistance will make your battery last a little longer between charges, and a lower-resistance coil will give you a warmer vape, with a little more vapor production (in most cases). Most people around here prefer the 1.5-1.8 Ohm Kanger coils, but if you're going to use a VV battery, using a 2.0 or higher coil will be just fine... you'll just need to use a little higher voltage, based on your juices. If you go with the dual-coil EVOD2 tanks, I will recommend 1.5 Ohm coils and dialing your VV battery somewhere between 3.3 and 3.6V for starters, based on your juices and personal tastes. There's a lot of good folks on here, and we're happy to answer any questions and help you along!

There are too many variables to definitively answer that question. A lower Ohm coil draws more Amps and heats faster due to it's lower resistance, so it has potential to aerosolize more juice over time... but nothing says it will. There are still variables of device, coil size/style, wick material/size, juice contents/consistency, your habits/vaping-style, etc. The only thing I can say with any authority is this... (with all other variables being equal) A higher resistance coil will generally make your battery last a little longer, but that has no direct correlation to your juice usage A dual-coil will aerosolize more juice than a single-coil atomizer of equal resistance, to the rate of ~5% more per week, but that is comparing an AeroTank (dual-coil) to a KPT2 (single-coil).

The last box I bought was $30-32 from SmartVapes.com for 1.5 Ohm single-coils. It looks like they've gone up a bit... currently $40/brick, but that's still 80-cents each! You can catch deals from many online sites, and even though I hate eBay, you can find good deals there, just be careful that you're buying genuine coils, not knock-offs. Check vendor feedback, read descriptions WELL, and when in doubt, ask a question! I have bought smaller quantities of 20-25 from eBay and practically stole them... especially the dual-coils for under a buck each

Are you looking for a carry-case or a stand for your desk? Or something different?

There are good clones out there... from good manufacturers like Infinite, HCigar, EhPro, etc. And, they are usually between 25-50% the cost of an original. I would not hesitate to buy a KayFun clone from any of the companies listed above... I'm actually looking to buy a EhPro or HCigar version in the near future.

Welcome to VT, Joe!

Be careful of cheap knock-offs... The shop closest to me may only be a couple miles away, but they sell 99% "cheap" clones and knock-offs at "genuine" prices. Sadly, most of the people that have been shopping there are oblivious to the fact they are buying junk, and they get discouraged with vaping... ultimately giving up on it, or bad-mouthing the technology, which discourages others from trying it as an alternative to smoking. Shops like this do more harm than good! Buy from a reputable vendor, either online of B&M. Avoid eBay, unless you are VERY sure of what you are buying and trust the seller. Check the equipment for Trademarks, Logos, etc. to ensure you're buying the real thing! Some copies are really good copies, and they work exactly the same, but some are not worth your time. I also recommend the Vision Spinner, but the Kanger EVOD and EVOD Twist are also excellent. JoyeTech also makes a good VV battery, as well as excellent static-voltage batteries. My first batteries were JoyeTech knock-offs, and they worked... but after 4-months, they no longer held a charge... by comparison, my genuine batteries are still like-new after 5-months! Tanks... also a matter of choice. Most people here gravitate towards Aspire (Nautilus) or Kanger (protanks, EVOD, AeroTanks) as their go-to's. I prefer the Kanger ProTank2 with added air-flow base, as well as their AeroTank. They work well, are simple to operate, clean, and the replacement coils are <1/3 the price of Aspire's coils (even cheaper if you buy in bulk)... and last just as long. The V|T store sells only genuine products, and there is a list of "approved" vendors such as Sweet-Vapes in the vendor section of the forum. You should be safe in buying genuine articles from these vendors. Again, there is nothing wrong with "some" clones or knock-offs, but IMO, saving a few bucks isn't worth it, especially when you're just starting out!

While my son's soccer team ate dinner, after their loss on the road today, I stopped by a little vape-shop near the restaurant to kill some time... and walked out with this, for $35! They even threw in an arm's length of 28-ga Kanthal and about a foot of Silica wick. I came home, cleaned it thoroughly, and made a pretty decent (for my first try) 1.4 Ohm coil So far, this thing is working beautifully!! Now, I already ordered one of these earlier in the week, but I just couldn't pass on this one for the price... well, I could have... but really, I didn't want to I can't wait until my other one arrives!

Different vendors are just that... different. Some have weaker flavors, and some have flavors that will knock you down. Also, with weak or no vapor, since you're use to 50/50 juices... you'll find many of the 80/20 juices to be weak in vapor, but they should produce "some". VG is your vapor producer... PG is your flavor and throat-hit. 80/20 juices should have slightly more flavor and throat-hit, and less vapor than your 50/50's

I may not be able to help you build the coil, but I can say... That brass Stillare is Beautiful! Nice!

I just bought two HCigar clones... Copper Penny and Brass Windrose. I compared my Penny clone to an original... and you could not tell any differences, even the insulators and size of the copper screws for the top and bottom pins are exactly the same. I honestly think the laser engraving on the clone looks better... more depth and definition HCigar will have more of my business! I've also compared several RDAs from Infinite, to their originals... They appear to be spot-on 1:1 clone/replicas, and I'm picking up a Magma by Infinite sometime next week.... without hesitation.

+1 on the Mutant... The Hades just doesn't have any "wow" to it, IMO

Picked up some juice last night: 30ml of Snow White's Demise 30ml of Dragon's Breath 30ml of Derailed 30ml of Krankberry

^^ Excellent ^^ With a 30A battery, you'll have plenty of potential "if/when" you need it, but nothing says you have to sub-ohm and "use" that capability. To answer the second half of your question... One benefit of using a higher resistance coil is the lower Amp draw on the battery... regardless of 10A or 30A battery... means it's not working as hard, so it will last longer between recharges. Example, you have a 2.5 Ohm coil and a 1.5 Ohm coil... use them each on the same battery... say, 650mAh eGo... fire each coil the same 4-second length every 10-seconds... you'll get more "fires" with the 2.5 Ohm coil before the battery gives-out, because the Amperage demand on the battery is less with higher resistance coils.