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Everything posted by Earthling789
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Well put BCarter! No studies have been performed (or released) regarding long-term effects of vaping, but general consensus from "real" science suggests vaping is far safer than smoking! Let's look at some basic facts... PG and VG are main ingredients in the delivery system of many asthma inhalers, and Nicotine is found in every vegetable and fruit on the planet (natural insecticide). Sure, you're trading one habit for another, but would it be any different if you were chewing nicotine gum 20-hrs a day, or patches all over your arms or legs? At least vaping will give you nicotine when you want/need it, rather than a patch or gum's instant high, too much, too little, or the crash when they stop working. I can honestly tell you from experience that vaping is a far better alternative than cold-turkey withdrawals, and a million times better than the physical/emotional changes caused by anti-smoking drugs! He'll come around to accepting your vaping over smoking the moment he realizes you (and the whole house) no longer smell like smoke, and that your kisses no longer have an ashtray aftertaste
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New to vaping, would like some ideas on a vape build/set up?
Earthling789 replied to deadlocked's topic in New Vapers Forum
I have two NiteCore Intellichargers (both are i4's), and I cannot recommend them enough! As for batteries, I use and trust Sony VTC4's with my MODs... they last a full day, charge quickly, and are <$10 each. I also have 3400mAh Panasonic batteries, but they are mostly for my flashlights, although, I would not hesitate to use them with a MOD that isn't driving a sub-ohm RDA/RBA (because IIRC, their rating is only 10A). I also recommend the ELeaf meter. I recently purchased one, and so far it is working as expected, appears to be accurate, has an auto-shut-off/stand-by feature, and has the nice feature of reading voltage of eGo batteries as well as coil resistances. -
I finished my last cigar late in the day on 3/31, and picked up my vape-pen which I had just bought the day before. I had tried a few puffs on the e-cig to see how it works during the day, and on 4/1, I committed myself to ONLY vape! YES, I had cravings and thought several times about running to the tobacco shop, but I held strong and kept vaping. After a week or two, the cravings were less and less, and eventually, gone! 18mg is probably a good starting point for you. 24 may be too high, but would definitely stave-off the cravings when they get bad. I'm sure you're having more cravings when using the 6mg juice!
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Yes, dripping involves building your own coils, or at least having someone else build them for you, but you still have to install, tweak, and wick them. You'll need an Ohm-meter, coil wire, cotton or silica or rayon wick material, drill-bits to coil around, wire cutters, blah, blah, blah... Building coils is not hard, but it does takes a little time to get the hang of it, and the initial cost of materials can set you back $30-50 before you even choose an RDA! I really like my Magma, but have tried others... a Stillare is in my sights, not because I think it has better flavor or vapor than the Magma, but I just like the look of them and they have gold posts for better conductivity Another choice for testing juices would be a low-resistance atomizer? Basically, they are a tube-style cartomizer without any packing or wicking material ... just a tube with a coil in the bottom... drip a couple of drops of liquid and vape... repeat.... IIRC, the VT store had some 2.0 Ohm 5-packs for a couple bucks?
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You can always check the charge level of the battery with a multi-meter, or if you have one of the coil-meters that can check voltage (like the new ELeaf from iSmoka), it makes it easy to tell the charge level on those batteries that don't change button color as they discharge, or to just see if your charger is actually working to fully charge them. I haven't used a couple of my eGo batteries in a few weeks, maybe a month, because I've been focused on my MODs (sad, yes, I know - hangs head in shame)... checked them the other day with my ELeaf meter, and they are both holding at 3.7+ V.... gotta love Li-On batteries!
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I've read about "matching pairs", rotating, etc. as well... but for all that trouble to keep them mated, charge equally, rotate position, monitor charge/discharge rates, etc. etc.... why bother? ONE 18650 and you're all set! Charge, use, repeat!
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I smoked cigars for 30-years, and Liqua's Cuban Cigar flavor is really good... and if you like them a bit sweeter, you can always mix in a little vanilla or black-cherry or Raspberry to lighten them up a bit. A few drops of cinnamon really makes it pop nicely too.
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Glad you got a good set-up... I love my mini KPT3's... good vape, and very portable... most of all... reliable!
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I've never heard of it, but for a 200-mile round-trip, it had better be the best stuff on the planet!
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Sounds like the clerk was trying to unload some overstock of 18350's? Or, quite possibly just someone hired to run the cash-register and has no clue about battery safety, Ohm's Law, etc.? I think I would be tempted to offer to educate the clerk (and let the owner/manager know of the issue)... before he talks someone into stacking mis-matched batteries and hurts someone? As for stacking... I would, ONLY if the load were less than 1A (like some of my cheaper flashlights), but NEVER, NEVER would I stack for a sub-ohm build... the slightest difference in discharge rates between batteries could be catastrophic!
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Welcome to VT... Glad you're here... it will be your turn to do dishes in a couple of weeks
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New to vaping, would like some ideas on a vape build/set up?
Earthling789 replied to deadlocked's topic in New Vapers Forum
A Kayfun with a Nemesis... absolutely! A clone is just that... another company manufacturing the device, based on the specs of the original. There are some clones where the machining is not as refined, not as polished, etc, but some (like HCigar, Infinite, EhPro for example) where the clones are as good as or better than the originals. Clones are not bad in general, and I would not hesitate to buy a "quality" clone... as a matter of fact, I'm using an HCigar MOD (Brass Windrose clone) and Infinite RDA (Magma clone) right NOW! Just be aware there are some companies that aren't as concerned with the details and finish, and their lack of "brand name" or ANY markings are usually a give-away! Sweet-Vapes.com, 101vape.com, vapepg.com are just a few I have bought from recently with good experiences. IIRC, sweet-vapes has EhPro Kayfun Lite+ (version 1 - smooth drip-tip) for $25, and even offers silver, brass, or black colors too... and the Version-2 (styled drip-tip) for $29. A couple of members here have recently purchased these exact ones and are pleased with them. -
New to vaping, would like some ideas on a vape build/set up?
Earthling789 replied to deadlocked's topic in New Vapers Forum
HCigar is one of the better clone manufacturers out there... I'm currently using their WindRose (brass 18650 MOD) right now, with an Infinite (clone) Magma RDA. EhPro is another good clone manufacturer. Tobeco is hit-and-miss in my book... For someone starting out (and determined to build coils), my suggestion would be to begin with a Kayfun Lite Plus or Russian 91% (nearly identical devices). They are easy to build on, forgiving, and they are a TANK, which means you can fill them and vape, rather than carry a bottle of juice and add drops every few hits. You can also use a Kayfun/Russian easily with a regulated device like a Vamo, e-Vic, Provari, MVP, VTR, etc. because they tend to perform better with 1.2 Ohm and higher coils. Using a regulated device also will allow you to fine-tune the power/Voltage to better match your juice, tastes, and coil-builds. As for an Ohm meter... I have two... an ELeaf and a no-name brand... both are very accurate compared to my Fluke DMM. Honestly, having one that is mostly accurate is still far-and-away better than NOT having one Most regulated devices have an Ohm reader built-in, but don't trust them to be accurate like a dedicated Ohm meter... they'll work if you have nothing else, but can be off as much as 0.5 Ohms from reality... so definitely don't trust them for very low resistances (sub-ohms, if they'll even read that low). -
Atomizer is a generic term, frequently used to describe a tank/wick/coil assembly. Technically, the atomizer is the coil portion of the device, where the action of wicking and atomizing (converting to gas) of the liquid occurs. The Ce4 is a disposable tank, which can be called an atomizer because the whole assembly (tank/coil/wicks) are one unit. A replaceable bottom-coil tank like an EVOD is comprised of two distinct portions... the tank assembly (where juice is contained), and the coil-head (atomizer) assembly, which is the replaceable part. There is a "Jargon for Noobs" stickie in this section, which breaks down terminology such as this for you, but "atomizer" and "coil" are interchangeable terms, and just know that many website descriptions will use the term "atomizer" to describe the tank portion of the "kit" they are selling, especially if the tank is a Ce4 (or other one-piece, disposable tank). Hope that helps
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You've not been ripped off... you just have the most basic, disposable clearomizer. I used these myself for trying new flavors, and simple portability. There is nothing wrong with them... they are just "basic". You can clean them, but it requires rinsing, rinsing, rinsing, soaking in hot water, and my personal favorite... soak them in Vodka, then allow to air-dry. The Vodka will remove water, remove old-juice flavors, and is perfectly safe to vape if any does not fully dry-out of the tank or wicks But, with only one Ce4 tank, you can't change juices fast, unless you don't mind the first half-dozen hits to be tasting of mixed juices...
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Bump Everytime You Buy Something New
Earthling789 replied to blucavvy's topic in General Vaping Discussion
You'd love the Magma! I bought one as my first "real" RDA on several recommendations here... easy to build on, holds a ton of juice without leaking everywhere, and the flavor/vapor is simply wonderful, thanks to the adjustable airflow ring, which accommodates single or dual-coil setups... -
Welcome to VT! What you have is a basic, 650mAh battery with Ce4 Cleromizer (disposable). You cannot really clean them out easily... you dump the juice, and can boil or rinse them to remove as much juice as possible, but then you have to let them dry for days (in some cases). I would guess the juice is just not that good... I'm not familiar with that brand, and would suggest you visit a vape-shop nearby and sample some better juices so you can make a better choice/purchase (without wasting $). The battery you have is probably fine, but likely won't last all day... I suggest at the least to buy a better (brand-name) battery from Kanger, Vision, JoyeTech, etc. and pick up TWO of them, so you'll have the current battery as a back-up to the two you'll rotate out daily. Stick with batteries at least 900Mah for all-day performance, and >1100mAh if you chain-vape. Variable Voltage batteries are a good choice, too, but slightly more expensive, although you get the ability to fine-tune to your tank/juice. As for tanks/clearomizers... Ce4's are the most basic, and work okay, but I would recommend a good bottom-coil tank such as an EVOD, EVOD2-glass, Kanger ProTank 2 (or 3 or Aerotank) mini, Vivi Nova mini, Aspire nautilus mini (Aspire has other good ones,too, but can't recall their models). Basically, any of the brand-name bottom-coil tanks are better than the Ce4's Good luck, and keep the questions coming... we'll be glad to offer help and opinions
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I have a shop within a couple miles of my house, but I don't shop there for anything... they have genuine articles in the case (demos), but what is in the box they sell you are knock-offs, and cheap ones at that! I think their customers are starting to go elsewhere too, because I noticed the other day a huge sign in the window "50% off everything in stock" I'm with Tam... I'll buy online from a reputable seller (enforce REPUTABLE) because I know I'm getting the best prices and genuine products. Now, that being said, the shop 20 miles from me has all genuine gear, and great prices, which rival online + shipping (for most, basic items, anyway). I try to check their prices for anything new I'm planning to buy, before I buy online. If they're within a couple bucks, they get my business... for me, it's worth the little extra to keep them in business, and so I can get instant-gratification on my purchase!
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Well said, VapeHappy... an FDA stamp of approval only means that an FDA inspector was paid (or paid-off) to provide a stamp of approval! Just like the jeans I bought a few months ago... Inspector #5 must have been blindly sticking those slips of paper into the pocket because my jeans are falling apart at the seams Just because something is inspected, doesn't make it better, or safer... especially if the government is involved in the inspections!
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Yes and no... lol Lower resistance coils DO heat faster, but on a regulated device like an MVP, VTR, Vamo, etc, you are limiting the Voltage applied or the Wattage (power) to a specific point. Ohm's Law still applies, but a regulated device makes one of the variables a constant (upper-limit). In the case of setting Wattage limits, the Voltage is adjusted up or down (based on the coil resistance) to provide the Wattage specified. On my MVP (set at 9W), my juice has little taste differences between a 1.5 or 2.5 Ohm coil, the difference is the Amps used from the battery and current (Voltage) applied to achieve the Wattage I've specified, and yes, a 2.5 ohm coil does take a fraction longer to reach it's max-heat, so longer draws are necessary, but on the same coin... the coil also cools slower so chain-vaping provides a smooth/steady vape, if that makes sense? On an unregulated MOD, you're applying the battery's Voltage (up to 4.2V, normally), and Ohm's Law determines the Wattage (power) based on the resistance of the coil. Amps used from the battery are subject to only the limits of Ohm's Law, and that is why you have to use a GOOD battery for sub-ohming, or risk catastrophic failure due to high Amp loads generated by low resistance (to achieve light-bulb-ish Wattages).
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Mcquinn is SPOT ON TARGET! I started with eGo-style and cheap clearomizers... moved up to better Kanger tanks (lots of them), better eGo batteries, then added an MVP 2.0 to gain VV/VW and longer battery life between charges. From there... I forced myself to stop buying new things and really explore juice and work on saving all that money I wasn't spending on smokes or new toys! After 4 months of enjoying vaping (and pocketing savings), I decided to try RBA and bought two Mech MODs and two Russians... the next step was an RDA (and $30 for Kanthal and Japanese cotton), and I'm really happy with my Magma's flavor. Sure, I'd love to have a dozen more MODs and even more (and more) RBA/RDAs, but I don't "need" them... I just "want" them... and knowing the difference is why I've not spent thousands of dollars yet If you're vaping to get away from smoking, a simple set-up is all you "need". I have one friend who's been vaping for 2 yrs and she has probably spent (not counting juices) <$200 on hardware... 3-4 Spinners and maybe half a dozen Vivi Nova tanks. Another person I gave my original starter kit to is still using it months later, and only added a Spinner-II, two Aerotanks, and a Nautilus to his arsenal of gear. If you're chasing clouds, you can still do it on a budget set-up. A good quality Mech MOD, couple of quality batteries, charger, coil-building materials, and a quality RDA (or two) and you're all set ... just add juice If you're really into the hobby aspect, you can easily drop thousands of dollars buying every shiny bit of hardware out there, but in the end, you wind up with a lot of toys on the shelf, as you'll find that you still gravitate towards one or two device combinations (and the rest will collect dust). I know about the "dust collection"... I just cleaned up several Kanger tanks, and plan to pay them forward to friends! So, in a nut-shell... you can vape happily for <$100 in hardware... for a VERY long time! There is no rush to find your Unicorn, and honestly, everyone else's preferred equipment set-up is usually not yours (or mine), which is why there are more than one brand/style/color of everything available on the market!
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I've tested like Tam... and get different readings between different devices, however the APV readings are always the worst (inaccurate). My new ELeaf Ohm meter and my Fluke DMM match, and my no-name Ohm meter is usually within 0.02 (give or take), which is close enough even for sub-ohming readings. I don't trust my MPV's readings for anything but telling me the coil is not shorting out and that the device knows there is a coil there. When you say "safe", what do you mean? On most APV devices, they will fire coils down to 1.2, and some will go down to 0.8 before the safety features prevent them from firing. So, yes... in that regard, coils higher than 1.2 Ohms are "safe" for most every APV or eGo-style battery sold (crappy clones may be an exception?) You are correct in adjusting the Voltage or Wattage to find your sweet spot is the key, but if your juice tastes best at 8.5W, setting your APV to that will maintain the same taste (or really close) regardless of the coil's resistance. That is how I use my MVP today... I can use a 1.5-2.5 coil @ 9W and the juice tastes the same... but the battery drains a tad faster with lower resistance coils, and higher resistance coils take an extra second to heat up enough to really produce flavor/vapor.
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Just don't forget about the back-ups... or should I say don't let them sit on the shelf collecting dust! Use them in rotation so they get some love, use, and recharged from time to time... that way they'll be usable when you NEED one!
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Nothing wrong with buying clones, as long as they are reputable clones (EhPro, HCigar, Infinite, etc.). Some of the no-name clones are surprisingly well built too, but they are hit-and-miss, especially if ordering online, where you can't play with it before buying it. All of my MODs and RDA/RBAs are clones... if I bought genuine, I'd be broke! Fish is right, the Kayfun and Russians are virtually identical. Standards are 22mm diameter, and they make larger versions too, for 26650 MODs, which are 28-30mm. In one of my recent posts, I pointed out the major differences between the Russians and the versions of Kayfuns, so you may want to check it out to see which style/version is the best fit for you. Charles is also correct... the Kayfun/Russian are forgiving in coil-builds and wicking, but are tempermental if you use too much or too little wick, get the wick down into the juice channels, or have the coil too close to the air-port. Definitely don't over-fill... they WILL leak until the pressure equalizes, and really thin juices may over-wick and leak too!
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Welcome!