Earthling789

Your mod is a high Wattage device, circuitry controlled to boost Voltage/Amps/Wattage. Yes, as you increase Wattage (but coil resistance remains static), more Amps are required, thus more Voltage.

Welcome... The Sony VTC4 is a "3.7V" battery, but at full-charge, they will normally be reading between 4.1 and 4.2V... this is normal! I'll use mine until they reach 3.5-3.6V and then re-charge them... they'll actually last longer if you charge them more often (top them off), and don't drain them to "nothing" each time you use them.

EVOD2 and EVOD Glass are both dual-coil, whereas the regular EVOD is a single-coil tank. I have always noticed slightly more gurgling from my dual-coil tanks (KPT3-mini - basically the same) that have tight air-flow. It's less of an issue with my AeroTanks. I tried drilling ONE hole in one of the bases, and it helped quite a bit... just making it a tiny, tiny bit larger. Another thing I noticed is 1.5 Ohm dual-coils gurgle far less often than 2.0. EDIT: Oh, another thing to consider is that the factory-installed coils are usually crap... my theory is that they are contaminated with manufacturing/machining oils, or possibly rejects/seconds from the coil-assembly-line? Try a fresh coil, and you'll likely see an obvious improvement

If you put the replacement coil into the same juice that you had with the burnt coil, it is very possible the burnt taste transferred to the juice. Dump the old juice, clean the tank with a vodka soaked q-tip and let dry... then try again. A little burnt taste will be there at first because the old juice is still in the new coil wicks, but it will vape out after a few hits (or you can vodka soak the coil too, but it will take a few hours to soak, and a day for it to dry). Leaking is typical after dis-assembly if you don't ensure the o-rings are straight and in good shape. One at the top and bottom of the tank section, one at the base, and one at the coil. When you put them together, you just want to go to "very snug", not "jelly-jar tight" or you can damage the o-rings or deform them, causing a leak . One thing I've done with great success is to "lube" the top and bottom of the glass tank with a q-tip with a drop of juice (or even water). It will keep the dry glass from grabbing the dry o-ring and ripping it or twisting it out of the pocket. Been there, done that, and the t-shirts aren't that nice

A higher resistance coil heats slower, but also cools down slower, so if you're chain-vaping it hard... it will become very warm. I noticed that when I was chain-vaping a higher Ohm coil than my usual 1.5 or 1.8. Most of my juices are best tasting around 7.5 - 9.0 Watts... Using Ohm's Law, 1.5 Ohm coils @ 3.7V produce 9.0W, and 1.8 Ohm coils @3.7V produce 7.5W... which is why I do not use a Spinner or Twist (VV battery) any longer. Static-voltage suites me just fine On my MVP, I use the "power" setting to set my Wattage at 8.5W, and I don't worry if the coil is 1.5, 1.8, or even above 2.0... because the MVP auto-adjusts the Voltage/Amps to produce the proper Wattage output

I use to carry tons of back-ups (tanks, batteries, chargers, cables, coils, tools, kitchen-sink...), but now I have a small-ish camera case with mesh internal pockets (and belt-clip). Two eGos and two KPT3-minis on one side and the other side easily holds two coils, two bottles of juice (or a bottle and a larger tank). Of course, each vehicle also has an eGo charger in the glove-box, too. I carry my MVP a lot more lately, when I'm taking a car. If I'm riding my motorcycle, the eGos and spare tanks are usually all I carry (in the camera case), but I've been known to toss my MVP into my tank-bag if I'm taking a longer ride or going overnight camping. When my MVP bites the dust, I'll be replacing it with a VTR. Spare batteries are easy to carry (take up less length-space than eGos, and are 2-3x the mAh), and I really like the side-mounting of the tank, which keeps them better protected than sticking out like an antenna! Spare batteries, maybe a MOD tube, a couple of coils, spare tank, and extra juice will fit nicely in that small case!

If they already taste bad, you're well on your way to completely kicking the analogs! Don't feel bad though if you have cravings and sneak a drag from time to time... your body is still undergoing detox (and will for a while), so cravings ARE going to occur.

Jason, yes, I probably need to do the same thing with a Nautilus And as it just so happens, I have one on the way, and a 5-pack of BVC coils already on my shelf, waiting for it's arrival. Perhaps someday soon I'll repeat the process on the Nautilus, that is, as soon as I've had time to play with it, hahaha

I've used the Spinners, but don't own one. I had no complaints from it, and I know several people that swear by them (mostly V1 Spinners). I have owned a Kanger Twist (older version of EMOW), and loved it, but soon realized my sweet-spot was 3.6V, which means sticking with 3.7V 1100mAh eGo-T's @ $8-$10 each was a FAR cheaper option for me Having the additional Voltage selections was nice, but it's kinda like buying a house with 5 bedrooms and two kitchens (for just you)... why pay for the extra rooms that you'll never use?

Ah, something I've actually tested... Yes, Comp is correct, a dual-coil will vaporize more liquid per "hit" than a single-coil of the same resistance. A lower resistance coil will vaporize more (because it heats faster and draws more Amps - Ohm's Law) than a higher resistance coil. There is an equilibrium point, where the same volume of (the same) juice will be vaporized, regardless of dual- or single-coil, but the dual-coil will be the higher resistance of the two. Thinner juices (80/20) will drain from your tank a tiny fraction faster than thicker ones, but not by much if you are a mouth-to-lung vaper, because your mouth-draw is consistent volume (for the most part). There are just too many factors to determine how fast a tank will drain, and all of them will rely on the one constant (you), which is a "variable" in the world of vaping, as all of us are not YOU

I do agree... all labels SHOULD list PG/VG ratios, as well as % water content and Nicotine %. My favorite B&M obviously has an outside source for their "house-label" juices, but they provide ratio info by label color. Red = 80/20, White = 70/30, Blue = 50/50, and Black/Grey = 30/70. Their juices are better than most that I've tried from online (good flavor, and consistent flavors), and they also have many of the "Big-Brand-Names" at Internet prices... so no need to pay shipping

Wow, Tam... all of them have ratios listed? I'm looking at all the juices on my shelf, and only the ones from Fadora Vapor have the ratio listed... ingredients, yes, but ratios... NOPE... Not even on the "premium" juices from Mad Alchemist or the ones I've gotten from the V|T store...

Not all bottles will have it listed on the labels, especially if it is a "house-juice", which are normally in the 80/20 or 70/30 ranges. What are the brands you have? Perhaps one of us might have the info you need...

I typed that out, and giggled... knowing you would catch that

I think you jinxed me, Tam... it just started raining You gotta love Kentucky weather Friday, it was near 90 here... Saturday we hit a high of 55 with cold 50mph winds... right now (Sunday morning)... 36 (and COLD, misty rain, almost SNOW)! We're under a frost warning until 9am... BUT, it's supposed to hit 85 again by Wednesday, through next weekend! YAY, maybe I'll get one more good weekend camping trip in before I have to break out the cold-weather gear?

I have several Panasonic button-tops (3400mAh)... I'm not sure what they're rated, but "think" I read they were 20-25A. I've pushed them up to 8.5A before (4.2V @ 0.5 Ohm), and they didn't even get warm, so I'm guessing 20A minimum rating? The nice thing about them is that they last for 2-days in my MODs... although I primarily use them in flashlights, where they really "shine" My go-to battery for my MODs, though, are Sony VTC4's...

I figured I'd play around with the dual-coils and see what I can build... not just re-wick... but try a vertical build? And yes, it is supposed to rain (and be cold) here until Tuesday night (Autumn is here!)... so I'll have plenty of time to "play"

Good info on the i16 wicks Comp... but I hoped my message was clearer... that dry burning was not necessary on a factory coil, even though it is possible, because a fresh coil is so inexpensive (and tastes so much better, lol).

That's good news! And, I've got about a dozen dual-coil heads lying about... Hmmm... something to try on a rainy-day

Comp, when you say 'leak less', do you mean leaking into the center-tube, causing those annoying gurgling sounds and drips on the battery posts? Honestly, since I've changed over to using 1.5 ohm coils (not the new style), I've not had this issue in a LONG time.... even with my 80/20 juices! To me, it seemed that the 2.0 dual-coils gurgled FAR more, and was compounded by thinner juices. I doubt I'll see any of these new coils for a long time, too... I've still got more than 50 of the old-style on the shelf I also wonder if the new configuration could more readily be adapted to a vertical micro-coil?

Cleaning is simple... disassemble as far as you can, wash in standard dish-soap (tiny bottle brush helps greatly), rinse, rinse, rinse, and rinse again. Some even take the extra steps of boiling some water and then soaking the tank (and parts) in the boiled water (no longer on heat source). A final soak in 90% (or higher) Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) or Vodka is also performed by many to remove contaminants from tap-water, and it acts as a drying-agent to remove water drops faster. Vodka is preferred because if you don't fully dry the parts well enough, vaping a little Vodka is not so bad... vaping IPA... YUK! Dry burning is used to clear the gunk off of coils on an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer), and is not something you'd need to worry about with your tanks. You CAN do it, but it is not necessary... but if you do, you should remove the wicks first, put the coil assembly on your battery and fire the button, bringing the coil to a red-hot "dry-burn" 2-3 times. Then, you must re-wick the coil. Doing it with the wick in place will burn up the wick, or at least damage it, reducing it's ability to soak-up juice at the area of the coil, which reduces performance. Replaceable coils are just too darn cheap to worry with dry-burning

Yes, Tam has helped me spend... err... save... yeah, save is what I meant to say

Kanger ProTanks (KPT), KPT2 minis, Aspire Nautilus Mini, Vivi Nova Mini (plastic tanks), and a host of other styles out there Kanger and Aspire are considered "standards", and generally are very cheap to buy and maintain. Kanger's coils are probably the cheapest, @ $1 or less each. BTW, welcome aboard!

In my EVOD tanks, I find best flavor with 80/20 or 70/30 PG/VG juices. 50/50 juices work, but will have less flavor, more vapor. Thicker VG does take a few seconds between hits to wick (not good for chain vaping), and will wear out coils faster (lasting days instead of weeks).

I primarily use bottom-coil / bottom-fill Kanger tanks with my MVP... BUT, like you, I'd rather make the refill (or swap in my case) fast when I run dry/low... SO... I have 10 tanks (6 KPT2's, and 4 AeroTanks) which I currently use in rotation... when one needs a re-fill, I simply unscrew that tank and pop on a fresh one. This serves three purposes for me... 1) no waiting for a freshly filled tank, 2) As each tanks sees use 1-2 times per week, so coils last for weeks and weeks and weeks , and 3) most importantly, I can fill the empty tanks at my leisure (in the evening while watching TV or on a long boring conference-call)... performing any maintenance, cleaning, coil-swaps, etc. at that time, while not interrupting my vaping Another good thing about extra tanks, is that you can have multiple flavors ready-to-vape without wait, as your mood or tastes change throughout the day!