Earthling789

Tank-crackers are cinnamon, mints, menthol, and heavy citrus juices. I have no idea what is in "corkscrew", so I can't answer that one... but I regularly vape raspberry/cranberry mix, and have used it in a plastic tank without issues.

Welcome... Tank-crackers are just that... they degrade the plastic of the tank, chemically. Be it polycarbonate, acrylic, or lexan, it is not a matter of IF, but a matter of WHEN. Pyrex is the only sure way to avoid tank-crackers from eating their way out of the tank, but on the Kayfun/Russian/Orchid, plastic is the norm we have to live with, unless you upgrade to after-market Pyrex in M-form-factor or Nano-form-factor... but they have their own issues with poor quality glass, inconsistent sizes, threading, etc. I don't regularly vape tank-crackers in my Russians, but I keep one dressed in all stainless (without the pretty plastic window) for just such juices. Not seeing the juice is not a huge deal, as I can tell when I'm running low by the way it vapes, and fill-ups are pretty simple, as I use a syringe (or needle-bottle with 4ml intervals marked on the side) to deposit a measured 4ml into the tank each time

I do the same thing... watching TV, I tend to chain-vape, and had issues going to sleep at night because of the 18mg nicotine stimulation. I tried a 6mg apple-cider one night before bed, went straight out, and slept like a rock (rather than a baby, waking up ever 2-hrs, lol). Now, I find citrus flavors (apple/orange/cherry/lemon) work best before bed... bakery flavors make me hungry or leave a lingering flavor in my nose all night 3mg or 6mg work very well if you switch to them an hour or two before bed-time... you allow your body to step-down from nicotine naturally, without going into a withdrawal-mode, and you're not hyped-up when your head hits the pillow....

Well, I said I wouldn't buy a Nautilus because of the price-factor, so I'd have to wait for the tank-fairy to drop one at my door... Guess what the tank-fairy dropped in my mailbox this morning I gotta thank AshGone.com for giving out freebies last month... if not for their generosity, I'd still be without a Nautilus...

Flooding of a coil usually has common factors: Thin juices Excessive air-flow (causes over-wicking) Coil not firing long enough or hot enough to vaporize juice from the wick Resistance too high for your Voltage (or voltage/wattage too low for your coil's resistance) If turning up your wattage (increasing voltage and amps) seems to fix the problem, then you should probably be using higher wattage/voltage for your juice of choice anyway... although just taking a longer hit may allow the coil to get hot enough, too. I run my Kanger tanks (1.5 Ohm coils) at 7.5-9.0 Watts. I just received my Nautilus today, and instantly noticed the 1.6 Ohm coil required higher wattage to provide the same/similar vape experience as my Kanger tanks. I'm running 10W right now, and could probably stand going a bit higher?

The trike conversions are pretty nice... a neighbor of mine has a Night Train with trike conversion that looks really good, although quite expensive I ride year-round... as long as temps are above 20 and the roads are clear of ice/snow! It's amazing how a windshield, hand-deflectors (or bat-wing), and crash-bar-chaps keep you from freezing... and a snowmobile suit (or UA Cold-gear, fleece, and leather) with FF helmet doesn't hurt either! Someday, I'll break-down and buy heated grips and heated riding gear... I'm not a teenager anymore. Two years ago, I made a run of 300+ miles to get home from the Nashville office, the week before Christmas... it was 50 when I left western TN, and 17 (and spitting snow) when I hit the driveway in eastern KY, and only my finger-tips were a bit numb. You should have seen the looks I was getting from cage-drivers on the Interstate that night (especially the ones I was passing)

Congrats on surviving the "smoker's pit", lol... Nicotine is not the enemy... don't feel bad if you stay at 18 or 24mg levels for a long long time... you're body is use to the nicotine, and that is okay. Stepping down is an ultimate goal for most everyone, but if you drop too quickly, you will have withdrawals (trust me). I started at 18, went to 24, back to 18, and now I'm at 15 for my daily vape (in tanks), BUT I keep 18 and 24mg handy for high-stress times, 6-12mg for some flavors, 3mg for my RDA, 12mg for my Russian 91%, and vape 3-6mg at night, before bed-time... I can't believe how much better I sleep now!

You can find some good sales from time to time, but going with a quality clone (Infinite, HCigar, EhPro) are the most economical way to go, even if not on sale. I spent ~$34 each for my three MODS (including shipping), and my Copper Penny from HCigar is so close to an authentic, it's scary! I've compared it side by side, even interchanged the parts... zero differences! Personally, I'd probably not buy an authentic unless the price was insanely low. I'll keep buying quality clones, and looking for good sales on those when I can find them

You perfectly described a similar conversation my brother once had with his doctor... although he was confused how he was supposed to take his meds... the doctor told him he was not to take them at the same time (meaning both every 4-hours or both every 6 hours)... one pill every 6 hours, and another pill every 4 hours. But, since both would be taken at the same time every 12th hour, if he started at 6am (thinking they COULD NOT EVER be taken together), he spent 30-min arguing with the doctor... The doctor finally gave up and told him to take the 6-hour pill at 0600, noon, 1800, and midnight... and the 4-hr pill at 0630, 1030, 1430, 1830, 2230, and skip the 0230 dose! AND, after he finally grasped that concept, he then over-stressed about how he was going to take them if he's sleeping (Worst part... he was 38-yrs old at the time!) Growing up, I honestly hoped one of us was adopted (I still tell everyone he was)

Typically, the coils that come with it are garbage. I'd suggest getting a fresh 5-pack of 1.5 Ohm dual-coils for it, and much of your issue will disappear Dual-coils typically will pop a little, especially 1.5 Ohm, compared to 2.0 Ohm, so be aware of that. I run my 1.5 Ohm coils at 3.5-3.7V on a VV or 8.0-9.0W on VW devices... less popping and gurgling at those settings, and you still get good vapor

Ahh... I see Jonnoh has met my brother....

Thanks VapeMama! After posting this last night, I tied a couple more in different colors for a couple of KPT2's... at least now I'm less worried about cracking a tank by accidentally knocking them over on my desk. I doubt they'll give much protection if I drop them 3-feet onto concrete, but who knows? I like the look of it so well, that I may do a similar wrap along the length of my eGo batteries, using a thinner cord, and possibly wrap my MVP the same way so they won't be so cold in my hand (when outside) this winter, lol.

I really like the look of Cobalt Blue glass jars, too. They look nice and "clean" on the shelf with bright-white labels! I bought a dozen of the 30ml dropper bottles and a dozen of the 60ml dropper bottles from Amazon for ~$20 a while back, and use them for my blending and mixing. Comp is right about blocking light... Amber and Cobalt Blue bottles have been used for centuries by pharmacists, apothecaries, and scientists in-general to prevent light from causing unwanted Oxygen-reactions to stored chemicals (just like Hydrogen Peroxide will only be found in brown bottles... blocks the light to prevent Oxygen from reacting out of the mixture - leaving only water in the bottle).

Okay, I've been clumsy lately, and banged my MVP and tanks around a bit more than usual... especially knocking the rig over on my desk! So, I considered one of those "rubber-band" thingies to help pad the Pyrex on my tanks.... That is, I considered them until I saw the prices for a strip of silicone! So, being the ingenious person I am, lol... I remembered that I had hundreds of feet of 550 paracord lying around (which I make key-chains, survival bracelets, lanyards, dog-collars, etc. from when I'm really, really bored). Five minutes later, I have a Four-Bight-Turk's-Head tied around one of my AeroTanks, and not only is it decorative, but it should provide a small amount of protection from drops and knocks? It also slides up or down (with a little force, because I tightened it up quite a bit) so I can still see how much juice is left in the tank What do you think?

I would recommend myself to buy at least two or three, basic eGo-T (1100mAh) and at least three Pyrex tanks (KPT2 or KPT3 minis) to start with on day-one. I wish I'd never wasted the money on small mAh batteries and plastic Ce4 tanks! The eGo's and minis are my traveling and back-up rigs now... so they still see plenty of love... I've tried VV batteries, but find my sweet-spot to be in the 3.7-3.8V range anyway, so the standard eGo-T serves me just fine I also would have told myself to buy the MVP and AeroTanks (or KPT2 with air-flow-control bases) MUCH sooner than I did.... Actually, I would have liked to have invested money in those a month sooner than I did! That combo has served me very well these past 6+ months

Haha, Tam is very good at helping people spend their money Hope you heal quickly, broken bones suck, especially over 40! I've been down in my youth. A few stitches and months of mom yelling... then 20 yrs without a bike... now I have three, and ride them as much as possible. You only live once, right? As for switching to a trike... you may get along just fine with a heel-toe shifter? A co-worker of mine trashed her's in a ditch (after being pressed off the road by a road-rage driver) and shattered her right ankle. It took her 6-months to get back to walking, but a couple of months later she was riding again with a modified brake-pedal and stabilizing-brace for her ankle so she could us her heel, rather than toe. If you're having issues holding the weight of the bike, there's always lighter-weight models... just saying My NightHawk is only 400-lb (with tour-packs), which is less than half the weight of my full-dressed Sabre!

My thoughts too, after re-reading, Tam... Either way, with a few eGo-style now or later, I would suggest having a couple of those first, or at least having those before moving to a VTR... so they can become back-ups It's all about the back-ups Just this weekend (while 3 hours from home), my MOD had "issues" with consistent firing, my MVP was drained to charge my cell-phone, and without a couple of eGo-T's in my pack... I would have been stuck! Thankfully, I had 2 back-ups for my back-up!!

I didn't catch the part about this being your first rig... so I will have to agree with Tam on her statement... If you're just starting out, a minimum of two batteries, two tanks, and spare coils is the BEST starter-kit. For what you'd spend on the VTR (alone), you could buy two MVP's or 3-4 variable-voltage eGo-style batteries (Spinners or Twists)! I would not suggest anyone starting out to drop $75-100 on a VTR, and then add in $40 in batteries, and a $15-40 charger Vision Spinners (V1 or V2), Kanger EVOD (or EVOD Twist), or just a simple eGo-T (which are my backups to my backups) are all great batteries. Save some bucks to help you dial in on your tank of preference, juice(s) of preference, and find your "happy place" BEFORE dropping big bucks towards an APV. I'm not trying to discourage you from the VTR, at is a great device... I'm just trying to save you some $ so you'll be able to explore more juices and tanks, to find what you like best, first!

The VTR will be my next regulated APV purchase (when my MVP dies). My favorite feature is the side-mount of the tank, which makes it more compact, overall, and the tank is more protected. It is also nice that the Nautilus and ProTank/AeroTanks fit the ring! I've read where people use button-top (mostly Panasonic) batteries just fine with it, and several people have indicated using Sony VTC4 or 5's with it (flat-top) just fine, too. Either is fine with me, as I have both 3400mAh Panasonic and 2100mAh Sony VTC4's

Wait? You're supposed to CLEAN these things?? Seriously... I clean mine whenever they get gunked-up or I notice a film beginning to form on the interior of the glass, which indicates contaminants have made it into the juices. "Thorough cleaning" involves a little dish-soap, but a quick rinse with hot water does wonders! I always let them dry overnight, OR use an alcohol rinse with cheap Vodka (safe to vape if a drop gets left behind) to aid in dispersing water from the crevices, to speed up drying time

YES... and Kudos for your quick (and well said) answers... see, you're learning faster than you thought I'll add to the OP to also look at our preferred vendors section on the home-page of the forum. These vendors are allowed to be "preferred" for a reason There are plenty of great online shops (as well as local Brick-and-Mortar sites), but be wary of any deal that seems too good to be true (i.e. eBay, Craigs List, etc.), as they usually are selling knock-offs, seconds, cheap-clones, etc. That being said, there are some really good clones, and some really good knock-offs/re-brands that can be had for big $ savings... but they are hit-and-miss

Some tanks have long contact-pins and if over-tightened onto the MVP, will press down the contact-pin on the MVP. Even a 10th of a millimeter will be low enough to keep from making contact with some of your other tanks. The pin can be lifted by prying with a tiny flat-head screwdriver or hemostats, to lift it a tiny, tiny bit. When you screw a tank back onto the MVP, remember to snug them until they make contact, and use the vanity ring to cover the gap (and stabilize the tank).

Are you referring to the gasket between the base and the body of the tank, or the gasket on the coil itself where it mates to the base? Either way, you likely have a damaged o-ring. Simple fix to replace them. Kanger offers tank-o-ring kits for a couple bucks, or you can usually pick them up at big-box hardware stores. Just remember to get Silicone, and take the old ones with you to match them up correctly. If it is the one at the coil... just pull one from an old coil (or a new one) and you're golden. OH, another thing... when you disassemble the tanks for cleaning, o-rings become dry and will twist/pull/deform as you tighten things down. One way to stop this is to lubricate the edges of the glass (where it contacts the o-rings) with a drop of water or drop of juice. This will help them to "compress", rather than "drag". Tighten "snug", but not "gorilla-tight".

Didn't think that at all, Jason... I just wanted to further clarify your statement to point out the fact that it does remember your last settings, regardless of which mode you're on It drives me nuts when people (especially those in the vape-shops) think it is possible to set BOTH Wattage and Voltage (at the same time) on a VV/VW device... it's one OR the other... It's a lot like people thinking you can use a dimmer-switch on a light-bulb to use less Voltage, but still maintain 60W output at the bulb (yes, I know a dimmer switch does not alter the Voltage... it increases the resistance, lol, but this is how far too many people perceive how they work)

Correct, you can use either/or, not both at the same time... BUT, yes, you CAN set both to where you want them and it will remember the setting, so you can switch back and forth between the modes. I leave my Power setting at 8.0 or 8.5W and my Voltage setting at 3.9 or 4.0V. When I want to switch (based on the tank/RTA I'm using), I just hit the appropriate button (P or U) and switch modes.