Earthling789

I've never heard of them either, but that doesn't mean they're not legit.

I've seen the Tesla Three, but never tried one... mostly because I prefer replaceable batteries and "adjustment" on my mods. I like the fact it has a big capacity (5000mAh), and the circuitry has a 40A cut-off, but the fact it throws a constant Voltage (much like a mech-mod, but doesn't drop off after every hit) does keep me from owning one... Many of my juices like a Wattage that puts my Voltage requirements in the 4.2-5V range, which I believe is lower than the output of the Tesla Three, which would mean my juice wouldn't get enough "juice" to produce the vaping experience I prefer. I'm glad you're liking it... They're well made and from a reputable company, so don't take my desire to not own one as a negative... vaping is personal, and that mod just isn't for me

@Edna You said the batteries seem "fatter"... Are you 100% certain your Sony batteries are "authentic"? I only say that because the Sony VTC5 were probably the most counterfeited battery in the past couple of years Fatter batteries may or may not indicate a counterfeit, but to me it would be a reason to have doubt.... I have four (authentic) VTC4 left, and they are all still functioning near-new after 2.5 years (and over 300 charge cycles), which is actually better than a couple of my LG HE2's (which seem to lose charge pretty fast these days), despite them being only a year old and have gone through only 100-120 charge cycles. Even a couple of my Samsung 25R (blue) are starting to wear down in capacity, but they still hold out 3/4 to all day, and they're all 1.5-2 years old with well over 200 charge cycles each. I've heard others say their RX 200, 200s, or 2/3 behave the same way (lasting only a day or less, even with 3 batteries), and others may get a couple days, but I suspect they are using a much higher resistance coil, or aren't chain-vaping it? High battery drain and the size/weight of it... along with always having to carry 3-6 extra batteries instead of 1-2... have been the reasons I've not bought one, lol. Then again, I'm perfectly happy vaping my 1.2 Ohm coils in a 50-75W single-battery mod... TC or Wattage-mode... I'm good either way

I'm glad you're finding enjoyment in your new-found vaping experience! It will quickly turn into a full replacement for analogs, and then into a "hobby", lol... You'll find yourself looking at all the new shiny stuff and wanting more and more... we call it "a bad case of shinyitus" But, in the long run, you'll spend less and less on vaping, and begin to reap the monetary rewards of vaping, too, which is keeping up with your (diminishing) Nicotine demands for FAR LESS MONEY than you EVER spent on analogs! I have been analog-free for nearly 3 years, and my annual vaping expenditure (I don't call it a budget any more) is just a couple hundred dollars now... mostly for supplies such as coils, wire, and DIY juice materials (Nicotine, VG, PG, and flavorings). Yeah, I still splurge on a new tank or MOD from time to time, but those are just rewards for being a non-smoker, and to replace aging or dead/dying/broken equipment. Hard to believe I use to spend my annual vaping "budget" in just 5-6 week's worth of analogs!

I'm curious on the pen-style too...

Welcome to Vapor Talk! The Aspire Archon has TCR mode so you can use Kanthal and Nichrome in TC-mode, but dialing them in is kinda finicky because you have to know the Temperature Coefficient of Resistance (TCR) value of the wire you are using... Once you have that, you can put the MOD into TCR mode, key in the TCR value, and vape happy (once you dial in the temperature, that is). Length of wire, coil size, micro/macro coil, etc. will also affect the TCR value, but it should be minimal. Here are some TCR values I've used with success ... Ni200: "0600" [0.00600] (According to Steam-Engine.org) TitaniumGrade1: "0366" [0.00366] (According to Steam-Engine.org) SS316L: "0088" [0.000879] (According to Steam-Engine) SS317L: "0094" [0.00094] (According to Steam-Engine.org) Nichrome: 0.00040 (According to DJLsbVapes) Nichrome N60 (C): 0.000178 Nichrome N80 (A): 0.000112 Kanthal NiFe70: 0.0052 By no means assume these are absolute values! You'll need to play around with your MOD and the settings to fine-tune it, but these should give you a good starting point?

Most flavorings I mix are at 10-20% total volume... I would assume your Cotton Candy flavor is 10%, but that is just a guess. Some flavorings are stronger than others, so you use less of them in a mixture, so @Tam suggestion of trial-and-error method of adding a few drops at a time to 10ml is a good way to start. Depending on the specific gravity of the flavoring... it may take more or less drops to make 1ml... but the general rule of thumb is 20 drops equals one milliliter. Another way to see what works is to almost fill your tank with your base (3ml is a good place to start), and add a drop or two of flavoring, shake well, and vape... If after 5 minutes, it is not strong enough, add a another drop... repeat... until you get what you want in flavor. After you get a flavor you like... say 4 drops in a 3ml tank... from there it's just math to mix larger batches... e.g. 40 drops of flavor per 30ml of base (roughly 32ml total)... and you may actually find 45 drops may be necessary for the larger batch? Or, the way I'd prefer to mix it would be put the 40-drops (2ml) in a 30ml bottle, and then add 28ml of base to make exactly 30ml... This is just an example/suggestion on how to fine-tune it, but you can see how the method can be applied, starting with small batch and then working it up to larger batches. But, even larger batches may need fine-tuning... of more or less flavoring... usually less for most flavors as they become stronger as they steep and mix with the base.

^^ This is what I was about to suggest ^^ Build a different coil to 1.0-1.5 Ohms and I think you'll taste your flavor a LOT more than you do now. Four wraps of 22ga is probably between 0.2 and 0.3 Ohms, and on a fully charged battery that's probably around 55W? So all you're getting with that rig is heat and vapor... and at 70% PG, you're probably only getting the heat. It's been a long time since I had cotton candy juice, but if memory serves, it tasted best (actually HAD flavor, which was more or less a sweet after-tate, not real flavor) in a Kanger ProTank 2 @ 1.8Ohms and about 10W... and flavor was less and less as I lowered resistance.

One comes pre-installed (usually the 0.5 Ohm), and the other is not wrapped in plastic or paper and just stuck in a slot in the cardboard and foam. I wish Kanger would ship their included coils in sealed blisters or wrapped in plastic. I'm still standing behind my theory that those "included" coils sit in a big bin (loose) in the factory, and absorb a lot of moisture and machine-oils while waiting to be popped into packaging or screwed into a tank... which is why they almost always taste burnt or "oily". I think they only way you get a good coil from a kit is if the coil was packaged before it has had time to absorb all those machine oils and contaminants?

@Tam is correct.... the last couple of Subtanks I bought (mini and nano) the factory coils were set aside for emergency use only. It seems the coils that come with the tanks always are contaminated with oil or something from the factory and taste burnt no matter what you do to them. I did try one of the 1.2 Ohm coils that came with one of the nano's, and it was a very tight draw and had a burnt taste from the get-go

Cutting by half is a good start when you go to sub-ohm vaping, but I've found it is more linear than that... if you want to maintain the same Nicotine "feel" as you get from the higher Ohm coil. For example... if you are using a 1.5 Ohm coil and 12mg Nicotine... and want to drop to say a 0.5 Ohm coil... you're dropping by 67% in resistance, so you should drop at least 67% in Nicotine strength too... to say 4mg (or 3mg if you are buying commercial brands that offer strengths in 3mg increments). Personally, I use 6 or 9mg at 1.2 Ohm... an when I (occasionally) use a 0.5 Ohm coil (59% reduction), I also drop my Nicotine by the same (or more) ratio... so that puts me vaping 2-4 mg strengths at 0.5 Ohms.

By far, this is the best, most powerful paragraph in the article... and what many of us (including myself) have been saying since they first began talking about "vaping regulations".... "The potential harm of misguided e-cigarette regulation is magnified by the fact that powerful special interests seek to manipulate such regulation for their benefit. As my co-authors and I discuss in this new article from the Yale Journal on Regulation, current e-cigarette regulation is a product of a “Baptist & Bootlegger” coalition of well-intentioned health activists and tobacco companies. E-cigarette policy is also shaped by pharmaceutical companies, which see vaping products as a source of competition for their (largely ineffective) tobacco cessation products. I discuss these dynamics further here. "

And the ingredient list in my DIY e-liquids: Vegetable Glycerine (USP food grade certified, 99.7% purity certified) Propylene Glycol (USP food grade certified, 99.7% purity certified) Distilled Water Natural and Artificial Flavorings (food-grade-certified, water soluble, no oils) Nicotine (lab-certified 99.9% pure, in VG base)

I still have my first eGo-T... a black 650mAh battery. I bought two of them with a 6-pack of CE4 cartomizers as my starter kit. I used those for about a month before upgrading my tank to a Kanger ProTank3-mini, and still have that one (and another 5 I purchased over the years). I still use the KPT3-mini with an eGo or small 20-30W mod, on occasion, just because it's convenient and stealthy to carry on bike-trips, or I use them when I'm working in the yard or garage... because they are durable and I won't cry if I drop one and break it

There are also some used by the dentist with a coating which creates a barrier to prevent leakage. This coating is a type of plastic, similar to the plastic on the absorbent blood-pads you find under your meat from the grocery store... if it has a coating... don't use it to wick your coils!

Well, since they are "warming" an actual tobacco leaf... I would assume it would appeal to many cigarette smokers... although I'm definitely not agreeing on their assertion of 90% less harm! I mean, you're still "smoking" actual tobacco, and only God and PM know what thousands of additives are in their "sticks"? I also raised an eyebrow with the use of the word "conversion" more-so than the percentages quoted... Converting from Bourbon to Scotch is still drinking whiskey, lol

Which full size tank did they sell you? A Protank 5? ProTank 4? Toptank mini? I agree with @Adversarious1 they should have asked which resistance coil before they assumed they knew what was best for you . Editing because I should have read your post more closely, lol Yes, 20W on a 1.5 Ohm coil is pushing the limits... while you'd get decent vapor from it if you were using a higher VG liquid (50/50 at minimum), it won't produce the vaping experience you're use to getting from the 0.5 Ohm coil. Hang onto those 1.5 SSOCC for emergency use, but you'll have to pick up some 0.5 Ohm SSOCCcoils soon... if not from the local B&M, you might try our V|T store... Christopher has those coils at really good prices, too.

I don't know what kind of study you're doing, and I'm not clicking the link to find out about a few subjective or bias questions which will likely lead to zero conclusions (other than "vaping is bad", which is the go-to for the medical/dental community). As a former researcher, I can tell you the only honest study you can do, will take at least 500 test subjects and 10-20 years to conduct properly. You'll need 100 each of non-smokers/non-vapers for control group...100 each current smokers, former smokers who don't vape or use any other nicotine diversion, former smokers who vape, and non-smokers who vape. You'll have to also eliminate/mitigate environmental factors, excessive drinkers, caffeine addicts, and those who consume sugar (drinks/candy), or any other known oral-health damage causing factors. I'd wish you luck on your endeavor, but we both know you're probably not going to be investigating this thoroughly (long-term) or seriously... because next semester you'll have a new pet-project to complete for your indoctrination officials (a.k.a professors)... rather than learning real dentistry.... Sorry for the cynicism, but I've been around long enough in the medical field to know smoke-and-mirrors faux-research attempts when I see it....

Yeah, the Russian is designed as a MTL or sssllloooowwww direct-lung hit RTA... but the flavor is still amazing from it

I decided to take a break from my ADV and Subtank Mini this morning... and broke out my Russian 91% (authentic), wicked up a fresh 1.1 Ohm coil and filled her with a 6mg Caramel Apple I mixed last week... and I'm powering it from my well-used, black IPV Mini Man, I forgot how good the flavor is from this little RTA, and how good the IPV mini feels in my hand

It all depends on the deck you're using... many RDA's have ample space for 4mm ID and 20ga wire... but on (say) a Subtank Mini RBA deck... 26ga wire and 3mm ID is about as large as you can go without contacting the deck or sides, thus shorting it out, or not having enough room for Cotton without restricting airflow across the deck. I've played around building some crazy coils as well... but for most of us, there are limitations on the decks we're building on... and as you said... huge ID coils require lots space, lots of cotton, and lots of juice just to keep them loaded-up (not to mention airflow like a 4-ton HVAC unit, lol)... and unless you have massive surface area and power going to those large coils... the vape will be very weak... even then, the juice in the middle of the wick never gets vaped as it only holds "space/volume" to keep juice moving along the outer edge, which is all that really gets vaporized. You have to maintain a balance of coil size compared to the juice you're using, deck you're building on, and the Wattage needed to get a good vape For me, building a 0.8-1.4 Ohm coil with a 3mm ID gives me a very satisfying vape (flavor AND cloud) on nearly any deck I build on... and I can keep the Wattage in a very safe range for a single 18650 regulated MOD... under 40W... I do build dual and triple coils in the 0.5-0.8 Ohm range on my RDA's... when I use them, which is rare these days... but for me, I've found 1.0-1.4 Ohm coils built on a 3mm ID mandrel seem to work best for my RBA/RTA decks (subtank mini, Russian 91%, etc.)

I bought my first "real" vape also on 3/31/14... I bought an eGo-T 650mAh / CE4 starter-pack at the local vape shop (carry-case, two batteries, charger-kit, six clearomizers, and two 30ml bottles of juice)... a week later I had two more 1100mAh eGo-T's and upgraded to EVOD tanks... another week later I was rocking my first Pyrex tank... Kanger ProTank3-mini... and on my 4th week, I upgraded to an Innokin MVP 2.0, two KPT2, and two Aerotanks I tried cold-turkey, gum, patches, Chantix, and flirted with cigalikes for a while before buying a "real" vape product... and NOTHING worked like REAL vaping does!! I started vaping on 4/1/14 and have never had another smoke since then I'm over 2.5 years smoke-free, and NEVER felt better in my life. My fiance has been smoke free for just over 1.5 years.. and vaping is the ONLY thing that helped her quit!

Welcome to VT! I have several charts with resistance/wattage, and there are hundreds on the Internet... What exactly are you looking for? I mean, are you looking for sweet-spots or are you looking for specific coil's range of Wattage? If the latter, you'll not find anything for that because the juice you use (PG/VG ratios and flavors) will affect how the coil performs, as well as the tank style... what tastes great in one tank/coil configuration may taste like wet socks in another tank/coil combo at the same Wattage setting... Every tank/coil/mod/juice combo has their sweet-spot, but they differ from person to person, even then, because all tastes are subjective

Yes, it has merit, lol.... And I guess a couple of the Subtank Mini's and Nano's that were bought for her, ended up in my rotation But, she does use them... occasionally... This morning she was using a Nano to vape her Caramel Apple juice... because she said "it tastes better in that tank", lol Which brings us back around to the fact that some juices DO taste better in certain tank/coil configurations?

I'm with @Adversarious1... My first box-mod was the MPV, and after about 18 months it just wouldn't hold a charge more than a few hours I was kinda upset about that, since it still looks like new, and is not much more than a paperweight at the moment... After that disappointment, I decided it is more economical and efficient to buy mods that use 18650 or 26650 batteries, and replace batteries, rather than buy a whole mod just because the battery went bad... kinda like having to buy a new car just because the battery needs replacing.... My go-to brands are Samsung and LG... and my #1 preference is the Samsung 25R-5 (green) and 25R-2 (blue) because they just last and last and last! LG HE2 (red) have served me well, but they seem to diminish their charge capacity after about 200 charges, whereas the Samsung I've been running for nearly 2 years are still working like new ones. I've also bought some Samsung 30Q (pink) and LG HG2 (brown)... So far they are working well and holding their charge like new... but none of those 3000mAh batteries have passed 100 recharges yet