Earthling789

Feel free to jump on that soapbox often, lol... Passion breeds activists, and we need all the help we can get to fight for our freedoms! I posted a link (loosely referencing this MA proposal a while back), but my focus was on the fact that one of the documents they overlooked (the politicians) was that Nicotine was NOT the addictive substance they constantly (push) think it is... I'm of the mind that becoming a politician instantly makes you an expert on everything (NOT), but it DOES make you believe that it is your responsibility to protect John Q Public from himself... next step... corks on forks, because you might poke your eye out if you miss your mouth!

You'll want at least two batteries, and a couple of tanks... the initial expense is about the cost of a carton or smokes, so you'll not really feel the hit too hard Two batteries, two tanks, and a 5-pack of coils will keep you vaping for a month or two (not counting juice)... and you'll find within the first month of vaping, suddenly there is extra cash in your pocket

You'll get a lot of info and advice on here That's the greatest part about this forum!

Welcome to VT! You're already on your way, and I'd recommend buying what is considered as "upgraded" equipment... it will cost a few bucks more, but you'll get much longer and much more satisfying use out of it... Buy a couple of Spinners or Twists... 1300mAh at the minimum... they'll last all day that way. At the very least, buy a couple of eGo-T 1100mAh or 1300mAh batteries. Buy at least two (to start with) clearomizers of your choice... EVOD, EVOD2, Kanger ProTank 2 or 3, or the mini versions... Aspire Nautilus (or mini), Kanger AeroTank (or mini)... You'll be much happier with a better tank, and Pyrex rules over plastic if you vape anything with cinnamon, mint, citrus, or menthol (tank crackers). As for the taste of Camel lights... there are several of the Turkish blends out there, and IIRC, Seattle Vapor has a good one... and the Exotic Tobacco flavor from the Vapor Talk Store is quite good, too... If you're a half-pack a day smoker, I'd recommend 18mg Nicotine levels for starters... you may find 12mg does the trick, but most people find higher is a good place to start for really quitting analogs.

Well said... My kids grew up around power tools, farm implements, machinery, and firearms... they knew what to touch, and how to handle them when necessary. To this day, I can leave a loaded shotgun (not that I would) on the kitchen table, and not even my 4-yr-old would be curious as to what it was or try to play with it... They know what it is, and that it is potentially dangerous! It annoys me to no end how some people insight curiosity by trying to HIDE things from their children. Kids are smarter than many give them credit for... and simply telling them "no, you shouldn't touch that, it's bad for you" will be enough to make kids no longer curious... and they'll go back to playing with their cars or barbies....

Copper is correct... the original two batteries were/are at the end of their life-cycle. Most of the batteries we use (rechargeable) are good for 300-500 charging cycles, which will maintain 90% of their expected performance. Beyond those initial 300-500 charges, their performance, capacity, and life will diminish exponentially. Newer battery technology has gotten better, and in another year or two, we should see batteries holding 90% performance well into 1000 charging cycles.... But, where is the incentive for a battery manufacturer to make a battery that lasts 2000 or 4000 cycles before your replace it? If a battery lasted forever, you couldn't afford to buy it, and the manufacturer would be out of business.... Think of headlights on your car... after a year or two, they are dimmer than they were new... if one is slightly brighter, and you ONLY replace the dimmer one with a new one, you'd see immediately the difference between the new one and the "better-of-the-two-originals". Sure it was brighter, but still not as bright as a new one Personally, I'd rather pay $10 for a new battery every year, than pay $25 for one that supposedly will last 2+ years. Just like my motorcycle tires... everyone who rides, wants a tire that lasts forever, and they pay premiums for ones that last 15-18K. Myself, I'd rather pay 1/3 the price for tires that last 12-15K, and replace them more often... over the life of my bikes, I will put more miles with "good tread", than those that pay premium prices for tires, and pay less in the long-run (* and yes, there is a difference between "cheap" and "inexpensive").

Spot-on Comp... Government is in the hip-pocket of Big-Tobacco... the taxes and lobby money feed the coffers of politicians and welfare programs... why would they want to cut their own throats? My cousin worked for one of the big tobacco companies... she indicated there is $0.37 in each pack of smokes (avg), and less than 20% tobacco... the rest is trash, chemicals, and "fillers" which contain the other 4000 ingredients that keep you hooked on smoking. If Nicotine were the addictive by-product of smoking, gums and patches would WORK... but 99% of us already know they DON'T WORK. The dosages are too low, and nicotine alone is not the addictive quality... it is only ONE of the addictive components, and it is the least harmful of the lot! Nicotine is demonized because of that fact... it is NOT the problem, nor the answer. It is singled-out as the problem by government because it is the false demon that can be exploited, much like saying motor-oil causes you to drive, therefore causes car-accidents. Vaping works because it combats the psychological as well as the physiological addiction of smoking. You get Nicotine, yes, because your body does crave the stimulant (but it is not the devil), you get the mouth/lung-filling satisfaction of warm vapor (and the mental satisfaction of smoke-like-substance being expelled), and you feed the hand-to-mouth repetition by putting the vape to your mouth and holding it in your hand.... Government is peeved about vaping because it is actually reducing the number of smokers (cutting into their tax revenues), and they don't have any hands in the pockets (or regulation authority "yet") of the "Big-vape Industry" (because contrasting to big-tobacco's big-3, vaping is thousands of smaller and independent companies). as Comp said... it's ALL about the MONEY (and control of both sides of the issue)!

50/50 should give you decent vapor, even @ 3.5-3.7V... What brand and flavor is the juice? Are you positive it is 50/50? I vape anywhere from 80/20 down to 50/50 (in my tanks), and 50/50 juices will force me to crack a window in the car/truck, or make use of the ceiling fan in the house to "disperse the cloud". Most Kanger tanks don't like being pushed over 4V or 10W, even for their dual-coils. The sweet-spot is generally around 3.6 or 3.7V (7-9W) for a 1.5 or 1.8 Ohm coil-head. Again, it will depend on the juice... some like more power, some vape better with less power.... Popping of the coil is generally attributed to too much air (causing over-wicking due to vacuum pressure), or juice is too thin (90 or 100% PG), or Voltage/Wattage is way too high (think dropping water drops onto a red-hot stove burner)....

Chances are that you're using a high PG juice, and in order to get a decent vapor from it, you're going too high on the Voltage, burning the juice up. The Nautilus will allow you to run higher Voltages, but I'm willing to bet the quarter in my pocket on the fact the juice is the issue.

Glad you got them separated... that trick works (almost) every time, and when it doesn't, it's usually because you didn't get one of the parts hot enough. Basic laws of thermodynamics wins again Now, lube up those threads after you clean it... if you don't have any anti-seize compound, basic Vaseline will work... a thin layer on the male threads... screw them together, then apart... a couple times to spread the compound evenly as possible, and you'll likely not have to break out the heat and ice, ever again

Welcome to VT...

Vinegar will etch the metal (eat into it) given enough time and strength of solution. It WILL cause threads to lock-up further. Brass is high concentration of Copper mixed with Tin (and sometimes other metals), but Brass and Copper react similarly to heat... only Copper is affected more. Try taking a wet towel, place it in the microwave until it is steaming... wrap it around the tube and let it get the tube good and hot... then touch the cap to some ice-cubes for a minute or two (while the tube is still wrapped in the hot towel)... that should do the trick to allow you to unscrew them...

I gotta agree, they're stirring the pot, and using anything they can to make people think there is something "threatening the children" when it comes to vaping. Cartoonish labels have no place in the industry... they don't put puppies, clowns, or rainbows-and-unicorns on cigarette packs, right? I also agree on the stats collected, being highly subjective. If you call the poison control center and ask why you shouldn't be storing bleach next to ammonia, and admit to having children EVER in your home, the call gets logged as a "household-cleaner poisoning of children". It's disgusting how people, the media, and nearly all alphabet-agencies will twist and massage data to make it support anything they want.... How many of those nicotine-related calls were generated by people whose children popped a piece of their Nicorette? Got a Nicoderm patch stuck to their leg? Or had their dog chew on a discarded cigarette butt? [Yet, I'm sure ALL of them were blamed, by the media, on e-liquid, since that is the newest demon they are out to slay... because their handlers in government and big-tobacco tell them it is]

If it is a Copper Cartel, you'll have issues removing it... Copper on Copper will "weld" themselves together if the threads are not properly coated with anti-seize or Vaseline. Copper (above) has a good method... heat the tube (put it in your pocket for body heat, or wrap it in a hot, moist towel, fresh from the microwave), and then touch the cap (only) against a couple of ice-cubes for a few minutes... that will SOMETIMES be enough to separate them. Copper is highly conductive of heat... it will expand when hot, and contract when cool, which is what you're trying to do... contract the male threads of the cap away from the female threads of the body. Hopefully you can get them apart, and once you do, clean them thoroughly, threading included (stiff brush), and then coat the threading with anti-seize compound or at the very least Vaseline, to prevent them from melding together again.

I have to agree with non-white backgrounds... I've built plenty of sites, and one thing I (almost) refuse to do is "pure white", as it creates eye-strain, especially on high-def monitors. Even a 5% Grey has great impact on eye-strain reduction Side-bar navigation... I can take it or leave it, but one thing I would like to see is a "quick-jump" drop-down at the bottom of the page, so I can change sub-forums or refresh back to the "new content" page without scrolling back up a mile of photo-heavy posts to click navigation...

Tam gave some great links and info there... but I'll add to that... First, there is no "need" to upgrade... if you're happy with what you have, you're happy. Many people vape years using only starter-style equipment, but upgrading to higher mAh batteries (and more versatile batteries) and "better" tanks is a natural evolution once you decide vaping is for you! Spinners and Twists (variable voltage devices) were never my cup-o-tea, as I found my sweet-spot to be in the median 3.7V range anyway (standard voltage for eGo-T and EVOD batteries). A lot of people jump from juice to juice, and that is where a Spinner shines, so you can dial in the voltage to meet your juice's needs. A VV device also is handy to have if you are using coils with higher resistance, or have several tanks with different resistance coils. I do love my KPT3 minis... they are my go-to tank for sporting events, riding my bike, or any time I want something very portable. They hold a half-day's worth of juice, very rugged/durable, and are same diameter as my eGo-T batteries I can't recommend the KPT2's enough. Adding in the Aerobase to allow for adjustable air-flow makes them a perfect tank, IMO. They're not too top-heavy on an eGo battery, work perfectly with a more advanced battery like MVP, VTR, ProVari, etc., and even work well on a mechanical MOD. Upgrading your tanks from starter-tanks is always a good thing (Pyrex rules over plastic, IMO), and I recommend picking up a tank or two whenever you get the chance... everyone should have at least six (again, my opinion, lol) - 2 or 3 smaller tanks and 3 or 4 larger ones. Batteries... two are bare minimum... three to five are average must-haves. Just like juices, everyone's tastes are different, so tank and battery choices for you will be different than most everyone else... but you can't go wrong with battery choices of 1100mAh or larger (higher mAh = longer life between charges). Having all this "extra" equipment is what we consider "backups for your backups"... and you'll one day be thankful to have that extra tank or battery that you thought you didn't really need Welcome to VT, BTW!

Welcome to the forum... I've not seen the eGrip, so I have no opinion on it, specifically... But, don't be discouraged about USB charging... My MVP charges via USB, and I vape on it for a couple days, then charge it overnight. It also has the benefit of being able to charge while in use (next to my PC) during the day, but I've only had that problem once If the battery pack inside is at least 2000mAh, you should get a full day of chain-vaping, or two days of regular use before needing a charge... and charging overnight (or while using another device) is always an option! EDIT: I just looked it up, and the battery pack is only 1500mAh (less than a Spinner2) The unit is an all-in-one, which makes me a little worried about it... it's like a VTR (tank on the side), but the tank is BUILT-INTO the unit. If you crack the tank, or generate a leak, the whole thing is useless, and $70 wasted? It seems like it may be a popular seller for Joyetech, but not my cup-o-tea For $70, you could get a Spinner2 and three good tanks... or an MVP 2.0 and two good tanks (besides the one(s) that come with it)... or just about anything else for that matter?

My thoughts too... if he's not having cravings or struggling, I see no "need" for him to start vaping, but if he's having trouble staying "quit", then vaping would definitely be a good choice for him... I would recommend lower nicotine levels though... probably in the 6-12mg levels, but nicotine may not be what he's craving... sometimes it's just the need for visible-vapor or the need for hand-to-mouth repetition (or a combo of the three)?

Most of the women vapers I know gravitate towards color over size... But I've seen the full gambit from standard 650mAh eGo-T's to ladies packing MVP's, VTR's, Provaris, Mechs, and DNA box-mods... and the one constant is "pretty colors" or "pretty design" For someone starting out... an EVOD kit, or assemble-your-own kit of Spinner, Twist, etc... with tanks from minis to full-size (depending on how stealthy they want it).... will fit their needs of function! "Pretty" is what she will determine, but it never hurts to get her first battery and/or tank in her favorite color, and basics in stainless or chrome (polished metals) are always a good choice too (for girly-girls or bad-*** bikers)! Speaking of bikers... I recently saw one (full leather, and full-beard) with a bright pink Spinner

Research, research, research... the only way to avoid catastrophic mistakes My best advice for new RDA/RBA/RTA users: Buy a good ohm meter... and USE it! Start slow by learning to build higher-ohm coils (1.4 - 2.5 Ohm) FIRST Use juices from 0mg to 6mg nicotine with any dripper Once you learn to build, and want to sub-ohm, learn Ohm's Law or keep a good Voltage/Wattage/Resistance chart handy USE QUALITY EQUIPMENT, regardless!

Airflow-control-valves on any tank do what they say... control the air-flow... Decrease the air (smaller hole, or slot mostly covered), and you restrict air-flow to mimic a tighter draw, like a well-packed cigarette... better for mouth-to-lung hits. Open the air-flow (larger hole, or fully uncovered slot), and you allow more air to flow past the coil... which is better for lung-hits. More air-flow also creates more vacuum pressure in a tank, which causes more wicking-action. More wicking-action can cause flooding or gurgling or popping, depending on the juice pg/vg ratio... higher pg = thinner juice.

Not having a spare handy, or my micrometer nearby... the rough size is 1.5mm ID, 4.0mm OD, and 0.5mm thickness. Finding any that size at big-box stores may be hard, but I've seen offerings for quantities of ~ a dozen fill-screw o-rings on different sites, including eBay (yeah, I know... but just tossing it out there). Rather than buying kits with tank-rings and chimney rings, too... you can get them in lots, of individual sizes. I bought a pack of 12 chimney o-rings for mine (after I dropped one somewhere in my office) from the local vape-shop for $3. Might check your local shop... if they carry Kayfun/Russians, they may also carry replacement o-rings?

Okay, I know most everyone is talking about Nautilus BDC/BVC, but I've got KPT2's and Aerotanks that have sat for weeks without use, and haven't seen that issue very often. Now, I do get that with pressure/temp changes, like when traveling with a "very" full tank, but a Kanger tank that has been sitting for weeks on the rack in my office... rarely have that issue. It does seem those that over-wick by sitting seem to be thinner juices... 80/20, usually, but then again, not always.... Size of tank seems to have little to do with it also, but those that are max-full seem to be the most affected. One thing I do when I fill a tank is to vape a few hits off of it before putting it on the rack... mostly to ensure everything functions after assembly/filling. Perhaps that action is setting the vacuum pressure in the tank (rather than leaving them at standard-pressure) preventing/limiting barometric changes from forcing liquid into the center tube?

I sat up last night, ~ 2-hr before last-light. I purposely set-up on the up-wind side of the old corn field (on private land). I was vaping fairly steady the whole time from my tree-stand. The mixture was 3:1:1 Vanilla/Sweet-Apple/Black-Cherry (60/40 mix), and my hardware was an AeroTank with 1.5 Ohm BDC on MVP 2.0 @ 9W. Within an hour, just before last shooting-light, I saw three doe (two were yearlings) enter the field, about 50-60 yds away, and all of them were sniffing/moving, up-wind, in my direction. I was holding out for something larger, hoping a buck was trailing them, so I let all three walk on by. They passed within 20-yds (bow-range) of my tree-stand So, from what I saw last night... vaping may have not have been the cause of bringing them in, but it surely didn't discourage them. Worst-case, it simply helped mask my scent... best-case, it drew them in, looking for a meal? And, no... no buck followed them

LOL, not just you... I got my Nautilus a couple weeks ago, and I had zero issues with the first BDC. I had bought a box of BVC, and the first two out of the box leaked, gurgled, flooded, did back-flips, and basically ticked me off I'm using the second BDC that came with the Nautilus right now, and there seems to be no issues (vapes great). Once this one is spent, I'll try another BVC, but my optimism is not high.... and yes, they were verified authentic...