Earthling789

Just to give you an idea on proper-fill-level... here is my freshly-filled Russian 91%. Notice the small bubble of air visible in the glass when laying on it's side? This was actually filled from the bottom, and I fill until the juice disappears above the "window", which leaves this small air-pocket, which is necessary to provide vacuum-pressure to prevent flooding/leaking. Please excuse the fingerprints, lol

I've tried one "pad" of the Koh Gen Do cotton, and from what I remember of it, there is little difference. The Koh Gen Do "name" is actually a Japanese Cosmetics "brand" isn't it? Like Almay, Mabelline, or Cover-Girl? As for their cotton, it's just a well-made, premium organic cotton. I have zero complaints on the Selena brand I bought from Amazon. Wicking, flavor, durability, and consistency of the cotton seems to be on-par with Koh Gen Do.... at a MUCH lower price-point! I don't have both to compare side-by-side at the moment, but I think the Selena brand might be a tiny bit thinner? But, the thickness issue may be the difference between Small/Medium/Large pad sizes, or their compression in the bag, too? In all honesty, both brands are probably made on the same assembly line, just shoved into different packaging... Just like when I was buying diapers for my kids... A family member worked for the paper company that made/packaged several different brand-names, and gave me the inside-scoop on the process. Other than the package or "print" on the waist-band, the diapers themselves were identical in every way, except price

Yet, you still had to go outside with the "smokers" to enjoy your vape.... Still, I applaud them for including electronics, with the analogs, as an option.... At least they showed some initiative

Selena - Cotton Labo Organic - Japanese Cotton from Amazon, currently $7.30 with free shipping for Prime members. It's also listed as an "add-on" item, but wasn't when I bought it....

Wow... 20 for a buck? My local B&M sells 12 Japanese Organic pads for $5, or 25 for $10! I bought a 200-count pack of medium-size (5 x 6cm) Japanese Organic cotton from Amazon for $7. So far, I've managed to use ... two-and-a-half... in two months? At this rate, I'll "burn-through" 15 a year, so somewhere around 2027 I'll need to order more?

My local shop has a waffle and maple syrup flavor that is simply delicious.... I think it is their own blend, and one of their top-sellers, too

Top-filling invites leakage... When you top-fill, you add pressure to the juice when you screw-down the top-lid of the Kayfun. This pressure will force juice to over-wick or flood into the coil-chamber, which will push juice (eventually) into the air-tube, resulting in leaks (at worst) or gurgling/flooding (at best). Also, top-filling, based on the height of the chimney of the 3.1, will not allow you to put in more than 2.5 to 3.0ml of juice (if I've read other's reviews correctly). Using the side-fill method (through the fill-port) will maintain proper pressure (vacuum) to prevent leaks, as well as allow you to reach a full 4ml (or more) fill of the chamber. When I use my Russians (similar to your Kayfun), I tend to vape a bit more juice daily, than I do with my Kanger tanks. Mostly because of the larger coil-area and better wicking of the RTA's, as compared to the smaller coils/wick surface-area of the Kanger tank's coils. So, using an RTA will "burn" more juice daily than a "tank" with factory coil.

Tam, you mean you don't just stick your finger into the juice to make it sweeter?

I bought my Panasonic batteries from Amazon for ~$9 each, in a 4-pack, with Prime shipping. My Sony VTC4's came from Compenstine's site... two for $16, so I bought 4. I also have Nitecore button-tops and a few "off-brand" 18650's which I use strictly for my flashlights... so at any given time, I have at least two batteries in a charger

The 3.1 fills from the port on the side, using a needle-bottle. Lay it on it's side, and insert the needle to push the little spring-loaded ball out of the way, then fill until it is "almost" full... You want to leave a bit of air in the tank (based on a bubble of air showing in the window), or it will flood. As you vape, once the juice goes below the window, there is still about 1ml or 1.5ml still in the tank. You can see if you lay it on it's side that a little juice will slide by the window Once you vape down to where there are only a few drops (or a sliver of juice moves past the window as you tilt it), it's time to refill.... or safe to disassemble for re-wicking.

Box mods come in two styles... 1. Sealed battery, like the MVP 2.0 or Eleaf's iStick... they charge like a cell-phone, using the same micro-USB cable as non-Apple phones. 2. Replaceable, rechargeable batteries (18650, 26650, 18500, or 18350). Some use one battery, like the VTR, some use multiple batteries in parallel (some of the DNA-MODs for example) So, yes, they all use a battery of some sort or style, the question is whether they are user-replaceable (18650, etc.) or sealed, requiring plug-in charging.

The only "solution" to less-frequent charging is to use a higher mAh battery. My Sony's are 2100mAh, and last all day easily. My Panasonic batteries are 3400mAh and can stretch 2-days, but again, it will depend on the resistance of the coils you're using. Sub-ohming drains the battery much faster than using them with a tank, at say, 1.8 Ohm. Also, as batteries get older, they do have reduced capacity. After as few as 100 charges (for cheaper batteries), you'll only have 80% capacity. Even a quality battery will diminish in capacity after 300 - 500 recharge cycles. Letting a battery constantly discharge below 40% also shortens it's life-span/capacity. My MVP lasts 2-days between charges, and that's using it with tanks or RTA's only, and the lowest coil I'll use is 1.4 Ohm. Using only 1.8 Ohm coils at ~ 8.5W easily gets me 2-days on it... and it's only a 2200mAh battery, but it is a regulated device, like your Vamo. I think if you bump up to a larger capacity battery (like the Panasonic 3400mAh) in your Vamo, you could easily get 2-days between battery swaps

Well, the nicotine does add to throat-hit, but the combination of vapor (volume) and heat intensifying nicotine absorption rates, really are the reason for suggesting lower nic levels... from a chemical/physics/biology stand-point, anyway. A study performed by the University of Kentucky on Nicotine absorption rates looked at heat and proved that heat increases the absorption rate in the body, exponentially, whether it is a warmed patch or vaporized... the hotter it is, the more pronounced the effect. So, yes, a sub-ohm RDA will be MUCH hotter than your 1.6 Ohm Nautilus, and will have more surface-area (coil/wick) to work with My daily intake via tank is 2.5ml, maybe 3ml per day... but if I'm dripping, I may go though 2-3x that in a day... so if I'm using 18mg in a tank, I'd need 1/2-1/3 the level of nicotine (to maintain same daily intake level), so I'll use 6mg max... and since I'll absorb it faster, 3mg works even better

Pass-through batteries are just that... they charge WHILE allowing you to use them. If you don't mind being tethered to the cord, they're great to have. I've used my MVP while it was attached to the USB cord before, but you'll eventually forget it's plugged-in and try to take it with you when you get up from the desk/chair/couch Innokin (I think) makes a true-corded vape for use in the car... you plug it into the power-port/lighter of your vehicle, and attach your tank to the end. It's pricey for a long cord with VV adjustment and circuitry limiters, but you'd be guaranteed to have a functional vape in the vehicle.... I'm not aware of anyone making an "only when plugged-in" power-supply, but I could be wrong... and then there's still the darn leash to contend with On my 18650 MODs, I always try to keep at least 2 fully-charged batteries handy, and those that need topping-off are on the charger (I don't drain them completely, and top-off when I can). As for my built-in battery packs, like the eGo-Ts or MVP, I'll use one or the other while one is charging... or use a MOD. Charging batteries may seem like a pain, but that is why I have 8 18650's in rotation, and try to keep at least 2-3 eGo's along with my MVP... so I'll always have something ready to use, even if I'm charging multiples.... and when in doubt regarding the charge-level... charge them anyway... it never hurts to top-off these batteries... it actually will make them last longer....

Glad to see you picked up some good equipment, and reliable batteries for sub-ohming... One thing I don't think anybody has mentioned, but I'll re-iterate if they have... When direct-dripping, you should use a lower Nicotine level. If you use 18mg in your Nautilus, you may consider 6mg or even 3mg in your TOBH. RDA's produce loads more vapor, and hotter vapor. The increase in vapor production means more nicotine delivered, and it is proven that heat increases absorption of Nicotine by the body, so not only do you get more Nicotine per hit, you're also absorbing it faster My all-day-vapes are 12, 15, and 18mg Nicotine, but when I use my RDA, I use 6mg (sometimes), 3mg (normally), and 0mg (when I just want a flavor).

Welcome!

Welcome back! Yes, the advancement of new hardware has been amazing in just the past year, and with more and more competition on the market, prices are extremely affordable.... Time to upgrade your gear

If I'm using 50/50 juice, I'll re-wick mine after about 12-15ml of juice through my Japanese Cotton. A good indicator is that the draw will begin to tighten-up... so that tells me it is probably time to dry-burn and re-wick once the tank is empty.

Whole towns banning all vaping? Or, just local health dept's including vaping along with smoking bans in public places, such as bars, restaurants, public buildings, gov't buildings, etc.? If I recall, the first, and only, town to attempt a total ban on all tobacco and vaping was in Massachusetts... and the proposal failed last month...

I'm not familiar with the Kanger Mega, but if memory serves it is a two dual-coil set-up? I've not had a dry-hit on a Kanger coil in a very long time. One thing that will cause a dry-hit on a dual-coil is not enough air-flow. Have you tried to open the air-flow to a higher or max-setting? Another issue for dry-hits is too much Voltage/Power. If you're using a variable-voltage battery, try turning it down a little and it may be better? As Comp said, your juice should be fine for PG/VG ratios, and 18mg should be enough for your "needs", although everyone's need is different, so trying 24mg may be better for you as you get completely off analogs. Your set-up is fine, but I would recommend that you pick up another battery or two, and another tank or two such as the KPT2 (standard or mini), or an AeroTank (standard or mini) or perhaps the Aspire Nautilus (standard or mini). Any battery will do you well, as long as it is 900mAh or larger. I would suggest 1100, 1300, or 1600mAh eGo-style batteries, or a box-style like an Innokin MVP 2.0 or Eleaf iStick.... they're both 2200mAh and have variable voltage/wattage for better vaping control.

In simple terms, the easiest/best way to wick a kayfun/Russian is this (same as Pbusardo does it)... 1. Insert the cotton through the coil... should fit snug, but not "tight" 2. lift the cotton ends straight up, then feed them through the chimney base, screwing down the base, with cotton sticking up through the top 3. With sharp scissors, cut the cotton off, slightly above the top of the chimney base - I prefer about 1/16" to 1/8" above the top of the chimney base. 4. With a small screwdriver or toothpick, push the cotton down onto each side of the deck, so the cotton covers the juice-channels, and fills the area on the deck between the juice-channels and coil-deck. Don't pack it in, but push it down firm so it is spread out over the entire deck on each side, so it is not bunched up around the coil. If you pre-moisten the wick with juice before continuing the assembly, it will help the wick/coil to prime faster. When I do it this way, I don't have leaks.

If it is a Kayfun 3.1, the fill-port and air-flow screw is on the side. If it is a Russian, the air-flow screw is on the side of the base, and the fill-port is on the bottom. Kayfun V1 and V2 both have air-flow screws on the bottom, same as the fill-ports.

I have two Russian 91%, which are so similar, parts are interchangeable between the Russian and Kayfun... I lay them on their side all the time... One of them has been on it's side all night, and most of the day today (on my desk), and zero leakage. The only leakage I've had was when it was poorly wicked and the vape-chamber flooded due to lack of vacuum pressure. Silica wick was also an issue with flooding (initially) in my RTA's, which is why I switched to Japanese Cotton... better wicking, and far less flooding, gurgling, and no leaking when I lay it on it's side.

I think you'll be happier with Kanger's 1.5 or 1.8 Ohm coils, and if your Davide takes Aspire coils, the 1.6 will be your sweet-spot, I'm sure. Moving to a lower resistance coil will heat faster, and they will not retain the heat as long as the 2.4 coils you're using now, so the body of the tank will not stay hot... yes, they will get warm as you vape, but they cool down faster. As for the 1.6 ohm in the Kayfun... I run my Russian's (nearly the same thing) at 1.4 Ohm and if I chain-vape them, they get warm, but not hot... and they cool down rather quickly. I think 1.6 on your Kayfun is performing exactly as expected. I use my Kanger tanks on my MVP in Wattage-mode... and I get nearly the same vape from 1.5, 1.8, or 2.0 coils if I maintain the Wattage between 7.0 and 8.5W (using the higher Wattage for dual-coils helps with the juices I vape). If you are using Voltage mode (or a VV battery), I suggest trying a slightly lower Voltage with the lower resistance coils, slowly increasing the voltage until you find your sweet-spot.