Earthling789

Yeah, I didn't think (with today's battery and chip-set technology) that there would be any noticeable strain put on the batteries by an APV... unless it was a really bad DNA chip clone, maybe? I don't mind using the mech-mods for my RDA. For the most part, that is only an hour or two, from the comfort of my recliner, so the battery drain is not enough to worry about... I just pop the battery back on the charger when I finish dripping. (I'm not an all-day dripper) Mostly for my Russians, that I want regulated output. I use them more and more through the day, and once the battery gets below 3.8V, I find myself swapping batteries (going through 3 batteries every 2-days... or 10-11 battery swaps per week?). I'm perfectly happy with my MVP or iStick for use with my Kanger/Aspire tanks (the Russians just look so top-heavy on the iStick, lol) I guess now comes the task of finding an APV that I like... or buy a DNA-chip and build one, lol For now, I'll just keep swapping batteries more often in my mech/RTA combo...

Welcome to V|T! I remember family members who were Fire Fighters 20-30 years ago... and they were ENCOURAGED to smoke, to condition their lungs to tolerate the environment of their jobs... oh, how times have changed Tam's info is really good... you just have to try a few juices to find what you like, and what suits you. Tobacco blends of e-liquid do not "smell" like traditional cigarettes, because the nasty smell of those is from BURNING of the plant material (and the 4000+ added chemicals). There are some juices, however, that will have a very good "taste" of tobacco... again, flavor is subjective, so one that I think is "good", you may think tastes like wet socks Another thing to consider is that as you vape, your taste and smell receptors will HEAL, which means you will begin to taste/smell things you forgot existed... and foods/drinks will all taste differently next week, the week after, and perhaps in 2-3 months, you'll regain 99% of your pre-smoking taste-buds. Equipment is subjective too, and you'll have fun trying different devices... TRUST ME! As for something pocketable and stealthy, you'll probably want to go with an iStick (the new iStick mini is due out any day, too), or an eGo-style battery (stick-battery with button near the top) in a 650mAh, 900mAh, or one of the XL's in 1300mAh (fatter, but same height as 900mAh battery). Higher mAh just means more puffs between charges... higher the better, but that also means more size Tanks, also subjective... but most will agree you can't go wrong with Kanger tanks (best prices), Aspire Nautilus-mini (or full-size), Davide tanks, and there are a few other preferred tanks, too... Kanger, Aspire, and Innokin tanks are probably the most readily available from your local shops, though... Feel free to ask more specific questions... we all have opinions, and are happy to share

How's the flavor? Compared to other tanks? Are you using it with an APV or mech-mod?

So, B, tell us how you really feel, lol Seriously, I'm with the rest of you... I would have called that guy out for his "pushing the sale", but I've also been known to be banned from a few car dealerships because I'm not going to stand there and let them over-sell a POS to someone that doesn't need it (like me or a family member). Using the customer's "simple problem" as an excuse to up-sell him on something he has no business owning, just for the sake of a sale... Nope, not a place I'd do business with, even if they were giving stuff away for free.... I meter every coil I build, before and after I wick them... and I even meter my factory coils for my Kanger and Aspire tanks to ensure they are what they say they are, and to weed out a potential disaster caused by a dead-short or horribly mis-labeled sub-ohm coil. It's just good common sense practice to KNOW what you are using!

Lately I have been seeing the draw of a good APV... just like using my MVP 2.0 with my tanks or Russians, every hit is consistent because the Wattage or Voltage is the same every time I press the button. When using my mech-mods, every hit is a little weaker than the last (technically), because the battery is providing a tiny bit less Voltage/Amps on every hit. And, since my RTA's taste best when my battery is in the 3.8-4.0V range, that means I'm charging/swapping batteries a bit more often, and the first few hits on a fully charged battery are a bit strong because I'm pushing the Wattage higher than my juice prefers.... With a good APV, I could dial-in 3.9V and enjoy a consistent vape and get more out of the battery before having to recharge/swap, which would be perfect for my RTA's! (if that is the case with an APV?) Don't get me wrong, I love the simplicity of my mech-mods (and the beauty of the styles), but I do enjoy consistency of vape, too. So, my question is this... Does the APV put more strain on the battery, causing them to be swapped out just as often as I find myself doing in my mech-mods? Does the APV shorten the life-span of a battery? Comparing apples-to-apples, I mean... say using the same RTA with 1.2 Ohm coil... NOT comparing apples-to Buicks by comparing an APV running a KPT2 @ 1.8 Ohm, to a quad-coil RDA @ 0.15 Ohms

Yeah, I agree, it looks good on paper, but I too would like to hear from someone using it in a real-world test

Well, let's do the math... The lowest factory clearo coil available from Kanger is a 0.5 Ohm coil... and a mech-mod's fully charged battery will be @ 4.1V (4.2V peak) So, that means max Amp draw would be 8.2A @ 4.1V, and power would be 33.62W Using a high-Wattage APV would allow you to exceed the capabilities of a mech-mod, and push the Wattage well beyond 34W. However, how well that coil would wick, or perform under, say 50W, would be impossible to guess... and would depend on the juice, too.

"High-End" is kinda hard to define... as most people will define it as "high-price" or "high performance"... but when it comes to batteries, at least to me, high-end is defined by capacity as well as being able to vary voltage and/or wattage to suit my tastes. The DNA-chip mods fit the high-end of voltage/wattage variable, and the batteries are user-replaceable (use 18650 batteries). Also on those lines (but limited on their power output) are the Vamo-series and Innokin VTR. The iStick you're using is a similar device to the MVP 20W, whereas both are VV/VW devices, and both have sealed batteries (yet still good capacity). There are pros and cons to all of them, so it ultimately boils down to what YOU prefer I use my MVP 2.0 just as much as my mech-mods, and I have an iStick on order, and will likely buy a VTR within the next 30-days.... and I still use my basic 1100mAh eGo-T batteries as backups or for cruising on my bike (because they take up so little space). Tanks are also so subjective, you really have to find what you like. But, for me, the "step-up" was moving from (or adding to) my BCC/BDC/BVC coil tanks into RTA's (rebuildable tank atomizers) such as the Russian 91% or Kayfun. The flavor is superior to any "commercial" tank I've tried, but they are rebuildable, so there is the learning curve (and safety factor) for building your own coils. However, IMO, the RTA's work VERY well in the 1.2 to 1.8 Ohm range, which means they will work just fine with your iStick, MVP, Vamo, or even an eGo-style battery (like the Spinner or Twist).... no need to mech-mod unless you so desire. Price rarely defines high-end... many people say the Nautilus is the pinnacle of tanks... some say the Joyetech Delta... some will take a Kanger Protank 2 over any tank you suggest... Personally, I use my Russian 91% daily, but I also regularly rotate through my KPT2's, Kanger AeroTanks, KPT3-minis, and my Nautilus... Each has their benefits, each has their draw-backs, and some juices just taste BETTER in a specific tank BTW, that is a cool looking battery, and you'll love the extra capacity of the Nautilus over the mini... and they'll both use the BVC coils! Just be cautious of the larger glass-area of the full-size Nautilus... everyone's #1 complaint is that they are so easy to break, but you can get replacement Pyrex, OR you can get full-stainless tanks for them as well

In essence, YES, it is water vapor. The PG and Nicotine are rapidly absorbed by the body, and on the exhale, trace (but measurable) amounts of Glycerine are found, but mostly it is water. There is an older study (which was quite conclusive on these findings), which found the exhale to be mostly water, with trace amounts of Glycerine, extremely low traces of nicotine (1/35th the level of passive second-hand smoke of a traditional cigarette), and zero findings of toxic or carcinogenic substances. Also notable in the study: No glycerine was detected in air during cigarette smoking. On the other hand,72μg/m3 were detected during e-smoking. This amount is much lower than the threshold safety imit (TWA-TLV10mg/m3)and much lower than the threshold for moderate risk. However, it’s important to note that acrolein, a molecule formed by dehydration of glycerine due to high temperatures, was present in the air of the room during cigarette smoking test (20μg/m3). In fact, it is well known that glycerine is often added to moisten tobacco. During combustion glycerine is transformed into acrolein. The fact that no combustion is involved when using e-cigarettes probably plays a fundamental role in the absence of acrolein from indoor air during their use. As everyone knows, acrolein is a very toxic and irritating substance. Moreover it is currently suspected of having a fundamental role in the carcinogenic process.

D (diameter) = 0.32mm is the same as AWG 28ga, and that is roughly 5.3 Ohm/foot... or nearly 18 Ohm/m So, you have 28ga wire, not 32ga wire, which is why you're coming in so low. You need more wraps to increase the length of wire, and thus increase the resistance. At 5.3 Ohms/ft, you need to have 7.27" of straight wire to equal 3.2 Ohms of resistance. To hit 1.6 ohm (dual coil), you need to have each coil @ 3.2 Ohms... and with 5/64 drill bit, using 28ga wire... you need 21 wraps (and at least 5mm leg length). 11 wraps on the same drill bit will have you at 1.6 Ohms (single coil), and putting two of those in parallel on your atty, and you halve the resistance (0.8 Ohms).

Welcome to V|T! Are you vaping to get away from smoking, or just vaping to cloud-chase? The Manhattan is a tube which holds the battery (essentially), with a mechanism to "fire" the atomizer. There's nothing wrong with a Manhattan, but it's not the end-all-be-all of MOD tubes There is still the matter of which RDA (atomizer head) you wish to use... and there are hundreds to chose from, each similar in function, but with vastly different designs and purpose. Before you venture into "modding" and "cloud-chasing", I would suggest you do a LOT of research into the hardware and builds on YouTube... and there are many many threads on here regarding "builds" for vapor production. One thing we stress here is SAFETY-FIRST... knowing your equipment, using batteries that can handle the loads of low-resistance coils, having all the proper equipment to TEST your builds before you fire them off and experience catastrophic failures, understanding of electronics and Ohm's Law, etc. etc. etc. I don't want to sound like a prude, but we want you to be safe and responsible (and welcome your specific questions)... but be aware that the vast majority of the "true" vaping community have little tolerance for noobs that want to go from "starting-line" to $1000 cloud-chasing rigs on day-one, without taking the time to LEARN, be courteous, and be responsible.

I was one of those that transitioned day-one. I smoked my last one before bed on 3/31, and on 4/1, I vaped exclusively... and never looked back. Yes, there have been cravings... YES! But, I didn't give into them and make the drive to the store for a pack of smokes I started with 18mg, and quickly bought some 24mg (based on suggestions from the gang here) for those big cravings, and it helps, it really does. I stayed at 18mg for roughly 6 months (but I vape all day at my desk - no restrictions since I work from home ), and recently started moving down to 12mg for my all-day-vape. I also use 3mg in my RDA, and I'll switch to 6mg (or lower) a couple hours before bed-time, which helps me to sleep MUCH better at night. My morning routine is several puffs of 18mg to start my day, then back to 12mg for the rest of the day... and I also still keep 24mg handy for times when I'm unable to vape "regularly"... because a few hits of 24mg stave-off the cravings for hours... at least for me! As stated above... don't fret over dropping your nicotine levels too soon... Nicotine is NOT the enemy! Nicotine exists in every fruit and vegetable on the planet, and despite the propaganda, it is not the EVIL ingredient in analogs... it's the 4000+ other "chemicals" that create the immediate dangers to your health. Nicotine is a stimulant, like caffeine... nothing more, nothing less....

I just played with the numbers... and if you're using 30ga Kanthal, wrapping each coil 7 times (on a 5/64 drill bit), a parallel-dual-coil resistance would be right at 0.8 Ohms (1.6 Ohms per coil)... so, perhaps you've been using 30ga wire instead of 32ga?

Can you post a picture of one of your coils? The 9-wrap info I posted earlier should have hit you right in the 1.6 Ohm range...

The MVP can be ran in Power mode (Wattage) OR Voltage mode, but not both at the same time. Your juice will tell you when the Power or Voltage is too high (burnt flavor), but your issue seems to be coil-wicking related... So, what is the PG/VG of your juice? It sounds like you're juice is too thick, and possibly you're chain-vaping, which is causing the coil to not be able to wick as fast as you're trying to use it? Most of my juices prefer 7.0 up to 9.0 Watts, so use that setting (Power Mode), and it will not matter what the resistance of the coil is, because the unit will "read" that resistance and adjust the Voltage to give the Power (Watts) you have selected.... It's the easiest way to use the MVP, IMO.

My oldest is 24, daughter is 22, son #2 is15, and son #3 is 5... he was the "oops" But, it's a good "oops", because he's keeping us young!

Hmmm... 9 wraps (9/8, actually) of 32ga Kanthal, over a 5/64" bit (two coils) should give ~1.6 Ohms when the coils are in parallel (each coil should be 3.15 Ohm)

^^ This ^^ Higher mAh batteries will take longer to charge. My 1100mAh batteries can take 5-6-hrs, give or take, just for reference. As for discharge rates.... the coil resistance has a lot to do with it, as well as the Voltage setting. Lower resistance coils (ex. 1.5 Ohm) will run down a battery faster than higher resistance coils (ex. 2.0 Ohm). Higher Voltage setting will discharge the battery faster than using a "nominal" rating of 3.5 or 3.7V. Running low resistance coils and higher Voltage settings are just more reasons to invest in larger mAh batteries, or at least have several back-ups on hand

What is the target resistance you are trying to hit? This online calculator will help you to get close....

Well, I'm halfway between, here in KY, and at 65, it was a beautiful day for taking the bike out and burn through a tank of gas I got home just before the thunderstorm hit! I started out just to hit the store for OJ and to fill up the tank, but then I remembered that you should never mix old gas with fresh gas, lol... Best 3-hour trip to the store... since... my last 3-hour trip to the store

Nope, sorry... only has 3 HDMI ports... better wait for the NEWER model to come out :P

Hahaha... Nice idea! I sent links to my kids, pointing them to the gear I want! Now we'll see if they come through for dear-old-dad

I have little experience with the Nautilus, since I just got my first one back in October... but I'm still on my first coil, which has maybe seen four full-tanks, and working on tank #5? Granted, it's a BVC coil, and the juice is not very dark or thick... but it seems to be holding out on par with (or slightly better than) my Kanger BDC's.

Hey, at least we weren't comparing feminine-hygiene products Yeah, I'm long past the diaper days, too (thankfully), but I do have a 5-yr old that is going to be learning to ride his new bike in a couple of days

You can always build a 1.0 Ohm coil... Less load, so therefore less stress on the battery. If it is a fake that can only handle 4A, using a 1.0 Ohm coil and a fully charged battery would let you know if the battery is being stressed without going full-throttle, so to speak