Earthling789

50/50 juice is 50% PG and 50% VG. VG is very thick, and the higher the VG content, the slower it is to wick (think molasses). All tanks have issues with max VG (near 100%), because the wicks are geared for more thinner juices. My Kanger dual-coils and Aspire Nautilus will work with max VG, but they cannot be chain-vaped with max VG.... They prefer 50/50 juices, in all honesty. And, IMO, 50/50 juices taste better than max VG, because I don't care for the glycerine after-taste.

Many of us have tried the cig-a-like offerings, such as Blu, and I can think of no one that used them successfully for more than a a few weeks. You are spot-on with your analysis of weak vapor, poor flavor, and short-life. Our best advice to you is to move up to refillable tanks and rechargeable batteries, such as a Kanger EVOD or EMOW kit, or purchase of separates, such as a Spinner/Twist or iStick styled batteries and Kanger/Aspire/Joyetech tanks. Tam created a thread that has some wonderful suggestions for those new to vaping, but the first suggestion is to avoid cig-a-likes... the only thing they do for you is make you poor

You're welcome! Once I bought the first one, I fell in love... I knew you'd appreciate the size, capacity, and functionality advantages over your Spinner2's....

I rarely turn off any of my eGo's, MVP, iSticks, IPV, etc., unless I'm traveling with them and fear buttons may be pressed in transit (like if in my pocket).... I'm sure there is some type of minimal drain on the APVs (due to circuitry), but it is negligible in the grand scheme of things.

Yes, you can charge it with a higher mAh wall charger, but this is straight from Innokin: This product is intended for use with the charger provided with the unit. We recommend you always use a high quality 5V 500mA USB wall charger (CE/UL Certified). Use of unauthorized chargers may lead to overheating and possible burning of items in contact with the unit. Innokin Technology is not responsible for battery and charger explosions, fires or malfunctions due to the use of a low-quality charger. This product does not come included with any wall charger Using a 500 mAh charger will generally take ~ 3 hours to fully charge the MVP (from fully depleted). Using the USB port on your PC, provides a maximum 500 mAh charge rate, but typically only provides an average of 350-400 mAh (depending on load on your PC's power supply, your PC could actually DRAIN the battery during peak-load-times), thus extending the charge-time to 4 hours, or longer. A great majority of people will charge devices which come with ONLY a USB cable strictly via PC USB port, which is why I gave the 4-6 hour estimate. Using the appropriate wall-wart charger, will shorten that time to 3-hours. Charging via a higher mAh rated wall-wart will speed the process, but depending on the charging circuit of the MVP, it may not allow it to reach more than 70-80% charge (by stopping the charge-cycle after reaching Stage-1), thus reducing the run-time between charges (but this may increase the life-span of the battery). Furthermore, if the circuitry does not stop charging at Stage-1, or quell the charge-cycle properly to Stage-2 by reducing the current, the battery may overheat, become stress-damaged (shortening the life-span), or possibly experience catastrophic failure. Here's some more info on Li-ion battery charging, courtesy of Cadex: The charge rate of a typical consumer Li-ion battery is between 0.5 and 1C in Stage 1, and the charge time is about three hours. Manufacturers recommend charging the 18650 cell at 0.8C or less. Charge efficiency is 97 to 99 percent and the cell remains cool during charge. Some Li-ion packs may experience a temperature rise of about 5ºC (9ºF) when reaching full charge. This could be due to the protection circuit and/or elevated internal resistance. Full charge occurs when the battery reaches the voltage threshold and the current drops to three percent of the rated current. A battery is also considered fully charged if the current levels off and cannot go down further. Elevated self-discharge might be the cause of this condition. Increasing the charge current does not hasten the full-charge state by much. Although the battery reaches the voltage peak quicker with a fast charge, the saturation charge will take longer accordingly. The amount of charge current applied simply alters the time required for each stage; Stage 1 will be shorter but the saturation Stage 2 will take longer. A high current charge will, however, quickly fill the battery to about 70 percent. Li-ion does not need to be fully charged, as is the case with lead acid, nor is it desirable to do so. In fact, it is better not to fully charge, because high voltages stresses the battery. Choosing a lower voltage threshold, or eliminating the saturation charge altogether, prolongs battery life but this reduces the runtime. Since the consumer market promotes maximum runtime, these chargers go for maximum capacity rather than extended service life. Some lower-cost consumer chargers may use the simplified “charge-and-run” method that charges a lithium-ion battery in one hour or less without going to the Stage 2 saturation charge. “Ready” appears when the battery reaches the voltage threshold at Stage 1. Since the state-of-charge (SoC) at this point is only about 85 percent, the user may complain of short runtime, not knowing that the charger is to blame. Many warranty batteries are being replaced for this reason, and this phenomenon is especially common in the cellular industry.

Spydre, I had a couple of loose drip-tips, and realized I had a bag full of o-rings (that came with something I bought months ago). A few minutes ago, I pulled the old o-rings from those two loose tips, and popped on a fresh one... night-and-day difference! I wish I had remembered those o-rings months ago... If you have thinner or worn drip-tip o-rings, it would be worthwhile to snag a bag of o-rings, even if from the local hardware store.

Ahh, mine is much older... been in use for ~ 9 months, but probably manufactured a year ago or more... who knows if they've updated the chip-set or charging circuit between versions/revisions?

Tea, good to hear... Fish, I just checked mine... no cycling through the lights, BUT, the power was ON when I plugged it in. I tried it again with the power OFF, and yes, the lights cycled (because it has to power on, in order to charge). When my battery is charging, I only see the green light.... have never seen red or yellow during charge, even if I've depleted the battery. Strange....

Kanger warrants their batteries for 30-days, IIRC, but you must return them to the place of purchase (with receipt). Sorry to hear she is having issues with the battery... sometimes you just get a bad one.... But, if you take it back to where you bought it, they should honor the 30-day warranty, replace it, and handle the return to Kanger on their end.

Normal charging operation is no cycling of the lights when you plug it in, and the green light stays on throughout the charging cycle. Once it is charged, the green light should go off... usually between 4 and 6 hours, depending on the charge-level and input mAh of the charger used.

Christmas in my mailbox this morning Two ELeaf iSticks (silver and blue) and a pack of Nautilus BVC. The Samsung batteries were purchased locally on sale (and I grabbed the last 5)! I already have a blue iStick, but the one that arrived today will be a birthday gift for a friend (unboxed it to inspect and charge it).

When you plug it into the charger, do you get a green or red light around the fire-button? Also, when you plug it in, does it cycle through the red/yellow/green lights? If it cycles through the lights, then remains red, that is a fault code (apparently), which means the unit is dead

"up early" infers that someone slept, lol....

Comp's suggestion to try another AC/DC adapter and cable are spot-on. I've had mine about 9-months, and it did not want to charge once... I tried another charger (from my old cell-phone) and a fresh cable... charges fine now. Turns out that the charger I was using was on it's last leg... and the "pretty" (but cheap multi-port cable supplied with the MVP) probably wasn't helping matters either.

I started last night, and just completed the 2-seasons of Dead Like Me... getting ready to watch the movie I forgot how good that show was!

Strange they mention flipping the coil and tightening it up... that was one of my thoughts on it, to clean up that first wrap

I ran across these and thought they were kinda spiffy, but hardly worth $20/each, IMO... maybe someone will clone them, or come out with a design that has multiple rods/caps in one set?

I have little need for a 50W device, but if I did, I think I'd drop $ on the Segelei 100W+, and call it done.... or I'd buy a bare chip-set and build a dual-18650 box to suit my style For now, I'll trudge along with my current set-ups And, I'll be waiting for your review on the asMODus Colossal... I see that one, or another IPV-mini in my future....

Okay, I've been looking at the 50W model, and I don't think I like the placement of the up/down buttons... If you fire with your finger, you'd have to hold it left-handed to avoid changing settings with your hand... and if you're predominantly right-handed, you'll be forced to fire it with your thumb If I were designing it, I would have left the up/down buttons at the bottom, in-line with the firing button... or at the bottom in-general.

No, Tam, my efforts will be best spent making you jealous of my V4 BTW, it should arrive mid-week at the latest... prepare to hear ALL about it, lol

Tell me about it... in the past month or so, I've purchased two iStick 20W to replace all my eGos, an IPV-mini (which I'm really loving), more Samsung 25r batteries, and a Kayfun V4. This is on top of the mechs I got for Christmas... I've also considered the asMODus Colossal, too, and will still likely pick one of those up in a couple of months (or at least another IPV?). I was getting "battery-poor" in the past couple of months, and now I have plenty again... but I know what you mean... so many shiny things, and so little spare change

Some juices taste differently in different tanks, and using a lower Ohm coil can sometimes help to bring out the flavor, so you may try the 1.8 Ohm coil in you KPT2, and try different Wattage settings... I'll venture a guess that your juice will have more flavor around 9W? The Nautilus will help the flavor (usually), but not always. I have juices that taste great in a KPT2, but taste like wet socks in my Nautilus Play with the Wattage settings on your VTR... sometimes a tiny change will make all the difference!

C R A P ! And I just bought a second iStick 20W... Now you tell me I could have held out for a bigger one, lol

I just bought a Kayfun V4 (dual-coil)... Now I want a Billow, too

The only vaping gear sold on Amazon are through their partner vendors. I have family that work for Amazon, and asked why Amazon doesn't sell vaping gear directly... the short answer... someone in corporate deemed vaping gear as "drug paraphernalia" many years ago. They've lightened-up quite a bit, and allow 3rd-party vendors to sell through Amazon. I'm hoping they'll change their overall policy soon and start stocking their own, so we can enjoy Prime shipping and better prices. They're adding more and more, and I think they do see the profit potential of warehousing their own, so we'll see what happens in the near future