Earthling789

I've had an iStick since before Christmas, and it's worked beautifully with every tank or RTA I've put on it... with the exception of over-tightening a KPT3-mini on the adapter, causing a short (my fault, I know). Now, my newest iStick is starting to do weird things, in that I can attach any tank, and it will show the resistance (usually very accurately), and after I take a hit or two, I get a burnt taste... look down at the read-out, and suddenly the resistance is reading some rediculious Ohm reading... like 4.9 or 3.5. Once it reads the resistance incorrectly, huge voltage is applied to reach the Wattage I have set, which means I'm burning wicks (and my juice). I've had to re-wick my RTA twice in one day, and so far I've toasted a couple of Kanger and an Aspire coil... Fortunately, I've not toasted any juice (yet). If I set it down and wait a minute or two, press the button, and the resistance is correct again... WTH? I have re-seated attys, and even if they are fully seated, this occurs randomly. I've tapped the fire-button and watched the resistance change in the window (wild fluctuations).... wait a moment, tap again, and it will read correctly... I have tweaked/lifted the center pin, and it still occurs randomly, even right after adjusting the pin, installing a tank, and not touching anything.... a couple dozen hits are fine, then boom... excessive Voltage applied because it reads the resistance incorrectly (always too high)... I've tried using VV mode, and that has stopped the over-voltage issue, but it still reads the attty incorrectly at random times... and if it reads the atty at max Ohms, the Wattage will be below the threshold, causing it to not fire at all... so that's not helping much either... although it has stopped the burning of wicks Do I have a defective iStick, or what? Does anyone else notice this issue?

^^ This ^^ I'm assuming many of them treat a space on the forum as "billboard advertising space" rental. I would suggest for faster responses (or any response) to use the "contact us" links on their main web-site.

I've bought from alibaba... ONCE... It took 3-weeks for the order to even ship, and another 6-7 weeks in transit. Dhgate is a bit better about getting the package out of the warehouse, but you still have the usual 21-45-day delivery time from Hong Kong, via China Post or China Air. I've purchased several things from them over the years... but my last order was more than a year ago? Maybe they've gotten better?

I don't know of any plug-and-play recessed switches compatible with the Nemesis (although there might be in some dark corner of the world). To add to the list Joe gave, I love my Copper Penny mod from HCigar... and it is a recessed spring button (but will accept magnets), and is also lockable (but I rarely lock mine unless I'm traveling) For those mods that don't have recessed buttons... laying them on their side is normally not an issue with any RTA or tank. The only RDA I have that may leak if left on it's side is my Magma, because of the HUGE juice-well. Also, have you considered a regulated device? I still use my mechs, but in all honesty, I find a good, regulated APV to be superior in the fact that every hit is the same... because the battery is not constantly discharging and getting weaker with every hit.

USPS has the worst tracking. A recent order from CA showed the package as "received by carrier" in CA for a week. Once it was in my hands, a few hours later, all the tracking points were updated on the USPS website, including "delivered".

The V4 is too wide for the side-mount of the VTR, so you'll be forced to use the extension tube and mount it on top. Honestly, for the price (and weight of the VTR), I would suggest an iStick 30W, IPV-mini 30W, or something similar for a V4 (or any RTA), if you want a regulated box-style device. The VTR is limited to 15W, and is a GOOD device, but it is, IMO, an outdated device that serves it's purpose best as a bullet-proof work-horse for standard tank sizes from Innokin/Kanger. And, as Tam always says... it makes a great personal-defense object if thrown at an attacker

Hmmm... looking at it, and reading the description... "The Airflow Controller serves to cover the airflow notches increasing the resistance felt when taking a draw", it would suggest that it cannot increase airflow more than the tank's own default max. So, if the OP wanted more airflow, this won't fix the issue; however, if less is desired (tighter draw), then this may do the trick? Still, I agree, this would be a handy way of protecting 510 threads (like the weak threads on an iStick 20W, VTR, or clones that use lesser quality metals)

Welcome to VT, Lil... Bebop gives good insight, but I'll also add that your combo of Nautilus/juice may need to be used at a slightly lower or slightly higher Voltage setting. I know my Nautilus will gurgle/flood a bit (too much juice) if the Voltage/Wattage is too low. Also, if the Voltage/Wattage is too high, it will over-heat and spit/sputter juice up the tube (and into my mouth).

Price? I'm wondering how the price-point will stack up against the MVP 3.0 or iStick 30W?

Welcome to VT! I never cared much for the iClear tanks... some people love them, but the flavor (for me) was just not there. I would suggest a different tank, perhaps a bottom-coil design with a Pyrex tank, such as an Aspire Nautilus, Nautilus-mini, or one of the Kanger tanks such as a ProTank2, ProTank3, AeroTank, or one of the mini versions of these (if you prefer a smaller form-factor tank). Another issue with flavor may be your juice... not all juices are created equal, and different manufacturers will all have a different tasting/strength of blueberry (for example)... so you really have to try a lot of different juices. The PG/VG ratio of the juice will affect flavor as well... PG is the flavor carrier, so higher PG will usually have more flavor (but less vapor, because VG produces vapor), and more throat-hit. 50/50 ratio juices are the median compromise between flavor and vapor, but you may find you prefer 70/30 or 60/40... or something completely different.

An APV is electronic (circuit-boards, wiring, relays, resistors, etc, etc, etc.), which by their very nature are prone to failure (eventually). A mechanical MOD has no electronics... they operate by pressing a button which makes mechanical contact with the battery to fire the atty. Thus, the statement of "APV's are less durable". Sure, some APV's are waterproof, shockproof, bullet-proof, have pretty lights, and will even answer your emails for you... but they will fail (electronically) eventually

My mail-lady knows when I'm expecting vape-mail... I usually am going down the driveway before she can open the mailbox I'm still expecting a package from Fasttech, but I have serious doubts it will arrive before the weather starts to get warmer, lol... But, hey, I spent $15 and bought what would have cost me $90 from a US vendor, so I guess that's the price of saving a few big bucks...

Aaaaaannnnddddd... the move towards RTA for Tam has begun

I only trust food-grade or surgical-grade Stainless Steel to touch my juices. I have a Brass RDA and it makes the flavor taste like a bunch of coins in your mouth... Aluminum drip-tips give my juices a harsh metallic taste... For this reason, I won't buy a Kanger Genitank, because they are Chrome over Copper. Chrome naturally Oxidizes over time, which creates a barrier of "Oxidation" (read: clear rust), and I don't trust how that will contaminate my juice or introduce unknown toxins into my system! At least Aspire has came clean on their issue, but they get a huge thumbs-down from me because they marketed them as ALL Stainless Steel....

Oh, if you buy one, you'll like it... Trust Me! Seriously, since you drip more for flavor (and still use KPT2 and Davide tanks), an RTA is a simple, logical bridge between convenience of a tank, and flavor/customization of an RDA! I actually believe the flavor is comparable between RTA and RDA (unless I go below 0.8 Ohms on the RDA)....

Now, if I can get you to buy an RTA, my work here will be done

Welcome to Vapor Talk! Sounds like you've got a good set-up there, and are well on your way to staying analog-free!

Glad that cleared some things up for you The 9W target is seen on a lot of charts, and yes, it is kind of a sweet-spot for flavor on most juices. I know my all-day-vape tastes best (depending on tank and coil) between 7.5W and 10W, and my MVP is currently running 9W with a Kanger KPT2 and 1.8 Ohm coil. Every juice will have a sweet-spot for Wattage or Voltage, depending on the resistance of the coil, and to some degree, the type of tank. You really have to play with the settings and coil resistances for each juice to find the combo that you like best. When you're unsure of what works best, start your settings low, vape a little, try a higher setting, vape a little, repeat.... once a setting makes the juice taste burnt or "bad", back the settings a notch or two and you've found the sweet-spot for that juice/tank/coil combo.

You're obviously not a heavy-vaper, lol... Even with moderate use, my MVP never lasted more than 3 days, and using it as a primary battery for my 1.5 Ohm coils, I was lucky to get 2 whole days on it, even when it was new. If you like the MVP, Innokin has a 20W version available now, and will soon come out with the MVP 3.0, which is expected to spec-out at 30W and a much higher mAh, high-Amp battery. Eleaf has a very nice (and compact) 20W battery, the iStick, and is soon to release a 30W and 50W version. All of these will be capable of your Nautilus needs. For the Atlantis, you must have a battery capable of firing down to 0.5 Ohms, which rules out the 20W MVP or iStick, because they will not fire coils that low. Aspire markets a battery for the Atlantis, which is sub-ohm rated (and has a nice-looking carbon-fiber design), and looks like a larger version of the Vision Spinner-style of batteries. The next step-up would be to look at replaceable-battery APV's (advanced personal vaporizers). I am using an IPV-mini right now, which is capable of 30W and will fire down to 0.5 Ohms, but requires purchase of separate 18650 battery (which must be capable of high-drain and at least 10A [20A preferred] to constantly fire 0.5 Ohm coils at 30W). There are dozens and dozens of this type of digital mod available, but be prepared to pay a minimum of $50 for the mod... with the majority of them running MUCH higher... and an additional $40 for a pair of batteries and reputable charger... and that is just to get you started! Oh, and don't rule out a mechanical MOD for your Atlantis, but expect to spend the same $40 minimum for a pair of batteries and charger, and then the cost of the MOD, which will start at $30 for a decent clone, and move up from there to better clones, low-end authentic, and on up to hundreds of dollars for high-end authentic MODs.

When thinking of Wattage, think light-bulbs... a 100W bulb is more powerful (brighter, hotter) than a 40W bulb... The same thing stands for vaping. More Wattage = more power, and subsequently more Amps are required of the battery to reach higher power. More Watts does not necessarily mean more vapor. Sure, if the Wattage or Voltage is too low, vapor is diminished, but too much Wattage/Voltage will just cook the juice, giving you a horrible taste. Some juices will handle more power than others. More vapor is produced with higher VG content of the juice. 100% VG will give you the maximum potential for maximum vapor, and the hotter you can get it and the faster you can get it to the coil, the more vapor you get. This is why cloud-chasers are looking for maximum efficiency in their wicks, maximum air-flow, and the lowest Ohm coils possible, so they can produce extremely high temps via high Watts (which also means high Amps). Voltage and Wattage are functions of Ohm's Law, and are two of the variables. Given that your coil's resistance is a set variable, you "set" either Voltage or Wattage to allow the device to determine the third. It is really a choice of the person to determine which method they prefer... Personally, I use slightly different Ohm coils across dozens of tanks, so I leave the Wattage setting as my "set variable" and let the device select the proper Voltage. This way I can maintain relatively the same flavor level across all my tanks. If you use the same resistance coils, you can use the Voltage setting, and the device will set the Wattage. Basically they both are the same side of the coin... more Voltage/Wattage = higher Amps, which results in more power/current.

It's the first steps of a conspiracy... we'll all have RTA's and you won't , then you'll feel enough peer-pressure

So, Tam... Are you jealous yet?

The glass section of mine is picture-perfect... smooth edges (fired/polished), perfectly square, and zero blemishes. Switching to the glass over the steel only loses about 0.1ml too The M-tank (polycarbonate) looks a little thin, and is shorter, so you loose capacity when using it. IIRC, capacity on the M-tank is only ~ 3ml?

I'm currently using it with my IPV-mini. I've ran it at 12-14W, which seems to be a sweet-spot for my juice, but it's a little cool. 18W is a better vape (heat/cloud), but decreases the flavor. I tried it on my iStick, but it just looks/feels awkward on such a tiny APV I'm sure it would fire and look great on my Copper Penny, but I've not taken the time to adjust the contacts/pins to have it seat properly on it, plus, I've really grown accustomed to the VW APV's for consistent Wattage, rather than constantly decreasing Voltage on the mechanical...

Okay, I received my Kayfun V4 (AMOD Clone) today, and here's my initial impressions, and review after the first 6-hours with it.... Unboxing - The box, paperwork, even the "100% Genuine Svoemesto" seal make the clone look authentic. The only thing missing was the authentication scratch-off... that is, if the original even has one? The Kayfun looks beautiful! It is well machined, smooth lines and looks sexy. It is also HEAVY! The kit includes spare o-rings, screws, silver-plated spring, polycarbonate M-tank, REAL glass insert, and a couple of pre-wrapped 32ga coils over silica wick. They even included a key-chain screwdriver (instead of the crappy blue ones) Inspection - Machining of all parts is superb! All threads are clean and smooth. No sharp edges or rough-spots like typically found on clones. All o-rings are snug-fit, no burs, or irregularities. Initial Build - Even though this deck has 4 posts/screws, it is DESIGNED for SINGLE-COILS. The additional screws are to aid in mounting, using diagonal posts, to accommodate both clockwise and counter-clockwise wound coils. Yes, you can build dual-coils on it, but the deck is still small, so keep that in mind. I built a 28ga, 1.4 Ohm coil for my first build. There are warnings in the manual to not go below 1.0 Ohm, I assume because you could damage/melt the insulators? So, if you plan to try dual-coil, keep that in mind. I found my first issue with the deck screws... the heads are TINY, so I had some difficulty working the 28ga wire under the heads and getting them tight. Smaller wire may work better, but if you're planning to use 26 or larger gauge wire, you may want to invest in tiny washers? There is no top-chimney to attach, so you can wick the coil with the lower chimney/shield in place (kinda nice). Stuffing the cotton down onto the deck to cover the juice ports is much easier on the V4, because the entire deck is a tiny bit wider, and the ports are taller, so there is less depth to cover. Assembly of the tank is a breeze since there is one nut at the top, and you can get a good grip on the entire tank body to tighten things together. Insert the deck on the bottom and screw it snug. Here's the tricky part... closing the juice flow required the use of a tiny screwdriver inserted into one of the holes to use as a prybar to break it loose the first time... after that, it was much easier to work with. Now that it is closed, pop the screw portion which holds the drip-tip, and fill the tank. Re-attach the drip-tip section and open the juice flow... a few dry-drags on the tank, and the cotton is properly saturated (if you didn't pre-saturate). Out of the box, the air-flow control was wide-open, and after a couple of good hits on the tank (at 12W) I ended up with a dry hit and fried my cotton... NO PROBLEM... Turn it upside down, remove the deck, re-wick, re-attach the deck and you're ready to go again in 90-seconds. Try that with a full tank on an older Kayfun/Russian To adjust the air-flow, you have to remove the 510 connection pin... don't worry, it's not attached to the deck! Pop out the 510 pin (and insulator if your screwdriver is not small enough), and insert a tiny flat-head screwdriver... you'll find the air-flow control screw up there! Take a few drags on the tank while you adjust the screw... once you have it set where you want it, re-assemble the 510 connection pin (don't forget the insulator!!!). Conclusion - Overall, I give it 4.5 stars out of 5. I would like it if the juice-flow-control section had a better grip, but it is getting easier to work with, even after a few hours. I would also like the air-flow control screw to be more accessible, but once you set it where you want it, you'll likely not be needing to adjust very often. Flavor is exactly what you'd expect from a Kayfun/Russian style tank. I find little difference between the V4 and my Russian 91% when using the same juice, same Ohm coil, and same Wattage settings. So, no, there is no "wow factor"... I do like the adjustable 510 pin I do like the fact I can fill the tank without needing a screwdriver or needle-tip bottle I do like the fact I can turn off the juice-flow to eliminate leakage when not being used or being transported I do like the fact this tank does NOT whistle I do like the additional screws/posts on the build-deck to accommodate more than your standard coil builds I do love the fact I can get to the build-deck without having to drain the tank and make a mess Bottom line is that this RTA is a winner in my book, and if you are tired of dealing with tools to fill and adjust your older Kayfun/Russian RTA's, you may want to consider stepping up to this model. If you've been thinking about getting an RTA, but were on the fence because they are "hard to learn"... this RTA will change your mind quickly!