Earthling789

I was having some issues with coil contact under the screws... Resistance was showing 1.3 until I put a load on it... then it would jump higher as the coil heated. All of this was because of the tiny screw heads not keeping a solid clamp on the 28ga coil wire. So, I tried the spare screws that came with one of my Russian's, and they are the same threading... YAY! I replaced two of the screws, and built a new coil with 28ga Kanthal. I made this one a little higher resistance (1.6 Ohms), and it is working like a champ now! These larger screws will probably allow me to use 26ga wire without issue... maybe even 24ga? (but that may be pushing it) I'd really like to find some allen-head screws for the deck.... They would allow me to use twisted coils, and I'd love to try a twisted coil on this RTA!

Hey, I still drive a 46 year-old pickup truck... I LOVE old-school

I bought my Japanese organic cotton from Amazon for $7... 200 5cm x 6cm pads, and they are quite thick. Koh Gen Do is just a brand-name like Cover-Girl... and there are plenty of good organic manufacturers out there

I love the Boge LR Atomizers. I still use their LR Atomizers to taste-test juices at the local B&M, and I use their LR Cartomizers when I'm cutting grass or doing auto repairs, so I don't drop/damage an expensive tank

The last time I ran a 0.5 Ohm build at 4.1V (33W), the taste was horrid. Once the battery was down around 3.9V (30.4W), the flavor was MUCH better. It's amazing what difference a couple of Watts of power make On my APV, I've been playing with my RDA again, and find that 22-25W seems to be the sweet-spot for my 0.58 Ohm dual-twisted-coil build. So, based on that, if I had a Sub-tank, I'd probably not run the 0.5 Ohm OCC head more than 25W to maintain the coil, as well as maximize the flavor.

Darn.... two strikes against them... 1. Sold out 2. I just placed an order Guess I'll have to wait to get one (although I need one like I need another hole in my head )

I have to admit... that is a cool piece! Where did you get it ?

The juice may be the bulk of the issue... it is possible. All juices "age", and usually get better after a few days/weeks, but not all juices are the same. Short bursts on your device means the coil is probably not reaching full power/heat. So, that is telling me, if the juice tastes better with less power, then the juice is incapable of vaping at a lower resistance and/or higher current/power. Have you tried a different juice?

With what you smoked, 18-24mg should be the range you need. That being the case, the issue could just be your juice's PG level (or even the flavorings). Every juice is a little different, so even the same flavor from another manufacturer will vape differently. VG is what produces vapor (and adds a little sweetness, because it is a natural sweetener). PG is what carries the flavor and produces throat-hit

The coils that come with tanks are notorious for being "poor". The general consensus is that the coil picks up manufacturing oils from the tank, over time. I've rarely had an "included" coil work more than a few tank-fulls, so now I don't even bother with them (initially). Anytime I buy a new tank (now), I clean the tank to remove any oils, air-dry it, and put in a FRESH coil. I take the "included coils" and soak them in vodka for a couple of days, then let them air-dry. They work better that way, but still don't last nearly as long as a sealed, factory coil from a 5-pack.

The dual-coil (and lower Ohm) will give you more vapor, and higher heat... which means you are receiving more nicotine per hit, and heat is proven to accelerate nicotine absorption by the body. So, YES, that could be partly the reason. Nicotine and PG both increase throat-hit (that harsh feeling). Higher nic levels, and high PG ratio juices (80/20, 70/30) will give more throat hit. PG is also the flavor carrier, so you get better flavor with higher PG ratios... it's a trade-off to find find what you like. How much did you smoke before? If you were a half-pack of ultra-light smoker, 24mg is probably too high for your needs

Ahh, well at least they didn't sell you something because they wanted you to have it Yes, the adjustable airflow is nice to have. You can also put an air-flow controller (for the Aerotank V1) on a KPT2 and get the advantage of adjustable air-flow, and still keep the single-coil. You can usually get the air-flow control bases for $3-4... should you want to try the KPT2 for larger capacity. Using the MVP in power-mode (Wattage mode), will auto adjust the Voltage to give you nearly the same vape experience, regardless of the resistance of the coil you're using. If you're using it in Voltage mode, step down a half-Volt or more when using the 1.8 Ohm BDC, then bump up 0.1V vape, repeat until you find the sweet-spot. Although if it were me, I'd use Wattage mode, so you don't have to keep up with what coil you're using, and as coils age, they will increase resistance, so the MVP will push Voltage higher to compensate, giving you a consistent vape!

Ugg, I can't stand when a clerk does that... if I want polka-dot widgets, don't try to sell me striped ones... (usually because they have overstock of striped ones, or they want to sell you what THEY think is better). Another issue is now you have to buy different coils for your new tank (where-as the KPT2 and KPT2-mini use the SAME coil) Now, I'm off my soap-box Yes, the dual-coils are different. They are not hotter, per-se, but they are DUAL, so you get twice the heating area, and twice the wick. They produce a bit more flavor and vapor, and also vaporize more juice per hit... so you will have to refill a bit more often. Personally, I like both the Kanger BCC and BDC tanks, and each has a juice that tastes best in them... I use both regularly. I'm also guessing the real difference is the resistance of the coils. I'm not sure what you were using in the KPT2-mini, but I would guess 1.8 or higher? The EMOW are typically sold with 1.5 Ohm coils, so that will make them "hotter". If you have a VV battery, turn down the voltage about 0.5V (or more), and try again. Lower Ohm coils don't require as much Voltage to reach the same Wattage as higher Ohm coils. If your battery is not variable voltage or variable wattage, you may want to invest in 1.8 or 2.0 Ohm coils for your EMOW.

YES, it is...

I had a Kanger tank with cinnamon fireball in it for months... I washed it first with regular dish soap, rinsed, rinsed, rinsed, then let it soak in freshly boiled water until the water was cool... then put it in Vodka to soak overnight... dumped the (slightly pink) Vodka for fresh, and let that soak until the next morning (vodka was clear). After it dried, it was like a brand-new tank. On a side-note... that coil should probably be tossed... I've soaked several coils to try to prolong their life, or to remove an old flavor... it's never 100% removal unless you can change out the wick (and dry-burn the coil while the wick is absent)... and I would not suggest that on the BVC's... it's more trouble than it's worth... Just use a fresh coil

I started watching 24 from Season One last weekend... It plays in the background while I'm working, and I just finished Season 5 I think I'll hold off on starting Season 6 until I've caught up on my regular shows... Going to watch the first two episodes of Banshee season 3 and the latest two episodes of Lost Girl after dinner tonight! For right now, it's such a beautiful day out, I think I'll go roll some miles on two-wheels... it's either that or clean the living room and do laundry... tough choice, I know

Excellent point, Tam... there are a lot of folks who think you set both (or have been told to set both by idiots at the shops). My suggestion to anyone using a VV/VW device is to learn how to set the Wattage to what your juice prefers (usually between 6.5W and 10W for commercial juices in a Nautilus), and then the electronics of the MVP will auto-select the appropriate Voltage, based upon the resistance of the coil. For the OP, what you're experiencing is typical of a Nautilus (from my experience)... the base will become polluted with juice, or the center pin will become stuck, which will cause all kinds of erroneous resistance readings by your MVP (or any VV/VW device).

The Kanger single-coil BCC are probably the easiest to rebuild Compenstine even sells the rebuilt BCC heads with Tiger-coils and organic cotton... they last forever as long as you re-wick them every now and then. Everyone says his Tiger-coil rebuilds are top-shelf, and fantastic performers for flavor AND vapor... although I've yet to try one, I'll parrot their reviews. I've rebuilt a couple of them already, using 30ga Kanthal, and used organic Japanese cotton... so far, they perform BETTER than factory coils, and you can set the resistance level you want, rather than what the factory says they want you to have

^^ One of the better pictures of my brother ^^

You're welcome

Wow, I've heard some strange things in my time on this planet... but that one is pretty far out there. Propylene Glycol is in toothpaste, mouthwash, soap, shampoo, deodorant, etc. etc. etc.... Vegetable Glycerine is a natural sweetener, found in thousands of foods we eat every day.... But just remember... water is the leading cause of drowning... and 100% of all deaths occur right here on Earth, because living is the #1 cause of death

Welcome Peg! With the top-coil design of the iClear tanks, you have to lay them on their side occasionally, otherwise the wicks can't pick up juice from the bottom 10% of the tank Personally, I was never a fan of the iClear tanks, but everyone has their favorite... one of my co-workers swears by them...

My favorite B&M just moved to a larger building... opened a lounge/vape-bar (which also serves non-alcohol drinks)... doubled the size of their hardware display (and offerings), and I think the owner really cracked-down on the staff. Those that were ill-informed are long gone, and those that were "you don't vape if you don't fog a room and peeve your neighbors" are also long gone! The new staff are well-mannered, well-informed (or aren't afraid to ask), and the place looks awesome! Their prices are not too bad either... yeah, they have overhead to cover, but paying an extra buck or two is worth having it TODAY, sometimes. Still, though, I do order 95% of my gear and supplies from online sources... but I still give the B&M a look to see if they can get close to the online price, which they usually do for brand-name-commercial juices and some hardware. They sold me my MVP for $40 out the door, and two of my KPT2's for $7.50 each (because the boxes had dings)... They also had Samsung batteries on sale after Christmas, which matched the price on Amazon, so when they have a deal, I give them my business

Kuro Koiler is a cool manual winding tool... but they are pricey if you buy them in the US... $20 each, and there's a set of 3. Fasttech has the full set for < $7 I have one of those electronics wire tools somewhere in storage, but for $7, I just bought the spiffy ones from Fasttech

The air channel is much larger than the Russian or you KFL+, so it can open WAY up. I like a slightly restricted flow, so in that regard, they are on par with each other. But, wide-open, it's too much air-flow for me You could easily take full lung hits with this thing if you open it all the way.... If you had to put a value on the flow... I'd say my Russians are at 75-80% open, and the V4 is just a little over half-way?