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Earthling789

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Everything posted by Earthling789

  1. Tam, my "fat check" will barely cover the IPV-mini2 and the Kayfun V4, but that doesn't stop me from making my looooooooong list Now, where did I leave my scalpel and that cooler? Hmmmmm.....
  2. G.A.S. is like the Common Cold... there is no cure!
  3. I guess I classify as having "better ventilation", I just bought an authentic Russian 91%, and had to stop myself from buying two (hey, the price was just a few bucks more than a good clone) Next up on the purchasing list... a sexy, black IPV-mini2 (so I can go over 30W with my Magma)... and an Infinite Kayfun V4 in black (bonus pack with bell-tank and drip tips in black and SS).... and possibly... just possibly, I may spring for another 30W IPV-mini in silver or champagne... you know... to compliment my new Russian and V4 Then, I'll have to hide the bank statements for the next six months... either that, or sell a kidney (not necessarily one of mine, lol)...
  4. Welcome to VT! The sub-tank is a tank (using disposable coil-heads, and an RTA - rebuildable tank atomizer - deck). It is not capable of "dripping" ... for that you'd need an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer). Using the RTA deck or buying an RDA will require knowledge of Ohm's Law, building your own coils, a separate Ohm-meter, etc. etc.
  5. MVP's are definitely a work-horse... I have both, MVP and iSticks, and I can say the iSticks do "feel" cheaper, but they are pretty rugged... I've dropped and banged mine around and they have taken the abuse. The threads on the 20W versions are soft... not a good SS. If I could have gotten the MVP for the same price, I would have probably bought the MVP too Good Choice!
  6. Yeah, I know the feeling I haven't taken any of my builds above 40W (even with a mech-mod)... usually I'm in the 25-30W range with my RDAs, and my RTA's are rarely pushed over 18W (14 being the norm), but it would be nice to have the extra power if I ever wanted/needed it... The nice thing is the 70W models are the same size as the original 30W IPV-mini, so that means they will feel good in your hand, and not so bulky like the 100W + models... I'll be ordering one in the next few weeks
  7. I had a really good, but dull, greenish-brown patina on my Copper Penny, and I finally got tired of looking at it... It just looked "dirty" and grungy, and had that old penny smell (yuk). I polished it really well with Mother's Fine-metal polish, and restored it's shiny "new penny" look (and smell). Now, after sitting on the shelf for a month, it has a beautiful reddish hue to it! I've never been one to force patina on any brass, bronze, or copper... I think a natural evolution just looks more... well... "natural", lol.
  8. I'd be tempted to hold onto that Cartel, if just for the MOD... you can always use it with a Sub-tank or any of the larger tanks on the market (Kanger Mega, Turbo, Sub-tank, etc., as well as a big Kayfun or Russian 2.0). No need to toss out (er, practically give-away) a beautiful mech mod like that... and someday you may want to give RDA another try... or just display those RDAs on the shelf? The Cartel RDA is gorgeous!
  9. If you're planning to use the Kanger Sub, the limits are 30W, so if you're looking for something slimmer/smaller, and don't need 100+ Watts... Perhaps you may consider the IPV-mini (30W) or IPV-mini2 (70W). The former is $50, and the latter is the newest version, releasing tomorrow for $70, available from Vape Royalty at the best price I've seen so far.
  10. Mine left China yesterday, and the description and image doesn't say "style", so they should be the real-deal... but even if they are cloned, they hopefully will work as the original. I guess I'll find out in about 2-3 weeks. They'll spend a week getting to the states, and the last Fasttech package spent 8 days in customs in Chicago
  11. Local B&M was having a sale today (pushing close-dated juices)... picked up 60ml of Fuzion Krankberry, and 10ml of Tangerine-creme for $11. I also just ordered an authentic Russian 91% in polished SS (one of my birthday presents from myself).
  12. Crystal... first off, you should charge your batteries when/where you can keep an eye on them... it is a very low chance, but Li-ion batteries can explode or catch fire during charging cycles. They make containment-bags for charging them, which will contain/stop any sparks/flames/explosions ... don't want to panic you, but there is that 0.01% chance it can occur... Next, the flashing light when you attempt to use it is a good indicator that the circuitry has died, or the battery has. If less than 30-days old, you should be able to take it back to the place of purchase. That being said, my guess is that the battery is a knock-off or just one of those duds that we come across from time to time? The issue could also be with your charger. Have you tried another charger, or does this charger work well to charge other batteries? The VT store has all genuine products, and I would recommend purchasing from a known, reputable vendor, either online or locally. Knock-offs and clones can be just as good as the authentic product, but they also have a far greater chance of failure (or shorter life-span) than an authentic, especially true when talking about batteries and atomizer coils.
  13. Okay... this has now passed irritation, and moved to flat-out funny... My package with 5 eGo adapters was shipped over two weeks ago, and has been sitting in the International Customs "holding" facility in Chicago for the past 7 days.... well 8 days now... My remaining package was held up by one of the four items "suddenly" going from "in-stock, ready-to-ship" to "ships in 3-4 days"... then back to "in-stock"... back to "ready to ship on xx-xx-xxxx"... and NOW the entire package is being held-up yet again... estimated ship-date of 2/14/14... which will be just shy of 6-weeks from order-date! All I can say is this... It looks like my kudos were a bit premature
  14. Also the leading cause of rust and electrical shorts Just be glad you didn't add any Sodium Chloride and Selachii-Carcharodon-carcharias... or you'd need a bigger boat!
  15. ^^ this ^^ Of course, wackos on the left-coast are the origin of "This product contains ingredients known to the state of California to cause cancer, birth defects, etc." warnings on bubble-gum and tampons! To them breathing air is the cause of birth-defects... I think they all should remember that water is the leading cause of drowning, too... and I suggest a warning label be placed on all bottled water... you know... for the children...: "Warning, this product contains Dihydrogen-Monoxide, a chemical known by everyone BUT the state of CA to be the leading cause of drowning, and when combined with Sodium-Chloride and Selachii-Carcharodon-carcharias can be an extreme hazard, resulting in severed limbs, extreme loss of blood, and/or death."
  16. If the heat wasn't high enough to degrade the Nicotine, it should be fine, but will be a bit darker, lol. Hotter vapes do affect the absorption rates of nicotine... hotter = more/faster, but that has nothing to do with leaving your juice on a hot-plate, I know,
  17. Congrats B! You're a bit younger than I am by a couple of years, lol... and you beat me to the "grandpa banner"... but that's okay... my only daughter is getting married in May of this year, just before her 23rd birthday, and she has no intention of having kids right away. She doesn't want to mess with her figure (and her modeling), lol. I do agree on having them close by, though... it's hard to be the grandparent you want to be when you're so far apart... I think I'd be willing to have mine move back in with us just so I can make sure everyone is well taken care of... and there's nothing better than little-ones running around the house to keep you young!!
  18. Welcome to the forum... I agree with Tug's suggestion, up to a point... since you should start out with at least two batteries and two tanks (along with a few spare coils), going the Spinner/Nautilus route can get pricey I would also suggest you look at the Kanger starter kits (EVOD or EMOW). Either kit includes two batteries (smaller than a Spinner, so you have to charge them more often), but you also get two tanks and spare coils all in one package, for about what you'll pay for one Spinner and one Nautilus-mini. Given that you were a half-pack smoker, I would suggest you start out with 18mg juices... the higher nicotine content will help you get past the cravings while your body detoxes from the 4000+ chemicals polluting your system from smoking analogs Oh, and vaping dries you out... so drink LOTS of water... not coffee/tea/soda... plain old WATER!
  19. Nicotine is more rapidly absorbed by the body at higher temps too... So, yes, as you move to lower and lower Ohm resistances, you should (read MUST) reduce the nicotine levels of your juice or risk getting sick at worst, or a really harsh throat-hit and headache at best. When I use my RDA below 1 Ohm, I tend to drip only 3mg or 6mg juices (using 3mg if below 0.5 Ohms). In my 1.5-2.0 Ohm tanks, I use 12 or 18mg... and in my RTA with 1.2-1.6 Ohm coils (more vapor/flavor and slightly warmer than tanks), I use 12mg max.
  20. They (all three sub-tanks) take the same OCC (organic cotton coil) heads... And both the standard and mini have the RTA deck included.
  21. First # is usually PG content. Fadora's is also listed this way. If you want more flavor from Fadora juices, when you order, you can specify extra flavor, and trust me, even his 50/50 juices have great flavor because he mixes each batch to your specs. I have juices from Fadora in 70/30 and 50/50, and the flavor is excellent!
  22. I thought the BDC burned a lot more juice than the BCC, but and found that the BDC burns 0.002ml more juice per hit than the BCC, which translated from the difference of juice used in a week and the number of hits taken. Comparing a KPT2 and AeroTank (using same base, same juice, same Ohm coil), I did empty an AeroTank with fewer hits, but only about 35 fewer hits per tank on average. Your mileage may vary, but based on my "experiment", I found the BDC did vaporize only a tiny bit more juice per hit
  23. A Fluke meter will work just fine, but I found using a meter like that was cumbersome... that's why I picked up a $10 ELeaf meter (actually have two). The advantage of the dedicated meter is "hands-free" metering, and they provide a stable build-platform while you're working on your builds or tweaking coils.
  24. I agree with Fish... I'd let your daily vaping volume determine the size.... aesthetics matters little (to me), unless it is something I plan to use to make someone jealous, lol... Seriously, I get what you are saying... on my eGo batteries, I rarely used a full-size KPT2... I stuck with smaller KPT3-minis because of the top-heavy look. I wanted a more stream-lined approach. If it were me, I would get the mini. The volume is plenty, and at most, you'd be refilling once per day or three fills every 2 days? It's not a huge deal, like it would be if it only held 1.5ml, and you'd have to be refilling every few hours The mini still offers the RTA deck as well... so the only thing you're losing with the mini is a tiny bit of volume...
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