Earthling789

The logo on the box is Innokin... the iTaste MVP, but I can't tell which version... although if that is Titanium Blue (looks like it), then it is definitely a V2.0 The clearomizer is a Kanger ProTank2-mini, or could be a clone... no way to tell from the picture.

** Bows ** LOL, I've used that one more than once Just because you bought a million-dollar, nuclear-powered uber-mod that was designed by Einstein, and forged from Space-Metal that fell off Mechagodzilla's tail... doesn't mean you have to crank it to 11 and melt the base of your atomizer... or irradiate the neighbors...

If the charger that came with the Kamry is a Kamry brand, then it is likely safer than one of the no-name, accident-waiting-to-happen Chinese junk chargers It will do in a pinch until you get the Nitecore charger, but be aware that you should not leave it charging unattended!! Just to be on the safe side, in case something happens, I'd rather you be there to catch a problem before it starts a fire or shorts-out your electrical system. It may never happen, but I don't charge mine while I sleep or am out of the room they're in... even USING a Nitecore charger... I also agree... you must get an Ohm meter if you plan to use an RDA or any rebuildable device. It will ensure you have the resistance you want, and verify you don't have any shorts before you attempt to fire it. Even a cheap $5 multi-meter is better than nothing!

First of all, Welcome to VT! I won't even begin to address the marker tube, lol You can get a new glass or stainless-steel tube for your Nautilus mini for $5-8 online... best to do that and keep using it! Also, it would be advisable to pick up another tank or two... backups and spares keep you from going back to analogs or being without your vape-rig for days at a time, until you can get to the store or your online order arrives. The IPV-mini2 is 70W, yes, but just because it GOES to 70W doesn't mean you'd use it that high. The Wattage you use is dependent on the juice and the tank (or other device) you're using. For a Nautilus mini on that box-mod... I'd suggest somewhere between 9 and 18W (again, depending on the resistance of the coil and juice you're using). Basically think of it this way... just because your car's speedo goes to 140, doesn't mean every time you tear out of the driveway you have to immediately DO 140!! Vaping is much the same way. Also, the IPV-mini2 (as do all the IPV's) takes a rechargeable 18650 battery, so you'd need to pick up 2 or more of those (Samsung 25r, Sony VTC4, or similar dependable name-brands), and a good charger. You can recharge them with the IPV, but it takes forever (or so it seems). For you, I would suggest an integrated battery box-mod, like the MVP 2.0, 3.0, 20W... or the ELeaf iStick 20W, or 30W. They basically work out of the box with nothing more to buy! Also, you can buy two MVP's or three iSticks for the price of the IPV-mini2 (not even counting the additional cost of batteries and charger!). Stick with your Nautilus or similar tanks and you'll not have to worry with building your own coils, unless you want to, later down the line. The Nautilus tanks work VERY well with the MVP, iSticks, or even the IPV (or any box-mod).

There are tons of good mechanicals out there, and some of the best clones are made from HCigar and Infinite, IMO. Several of the no-name branded Chinese clones are also top-notch, some are garbage... and price doesn't always equate to quality. Some people swear by Tobeco brand clones, but I've never had much luck with their quality. Oh, EhPro is another good cloning company, too. I love my HCigar Copper Penny and brass HCigar Windrose (each were ~ $34 when I bought them last fall). I have a couple others on order, but they are mostly for "display purposes", and they were too good of a price to pass on. So, the mods, themselves, are not that expensive... $20-40... where your expense comes in, is buying quality batteries and a good charger, but it sounds like you may already be ahead of the game in that regard.... Honestly, I've moved away from Mechs as my go-to devices... A regulated device provides the same power/wattage on every hit, and I like that for my RTAs and RDAs. A mech provides a little less with each hit, and I find myself swapping batteries and charging them more often when using a mech, but they are great for an hour or two session of dripping in the evenings, after dinner!

This is an unprotected flat-top battery (Samsung 25r 18650). A button-top battery (looks like the top of a AA or D-cell) typically has a protection circuit built-in to prevent over-charge or over-discharge in a device.

Tam is always spot-on with preaching about backups for your backups I've been in that position too, where one dies, another has no charge (when you thought it did), and a third (or fourth) finally works enough to get you home... As for tanks... I keep one flavor in one tank, or at least rotate two similar flavors in the same tank, so I'm not having to clean them as often (to remove flavors) or swap coils as often (to remove flavors). I currently vape about a dozen or so different flavors... but only have TWO favorites... the others are a few hits here and there to mix up the pallet. I have roughly 20 tanks that I use regularly. 16 of them are rotating through different flavors, and the rest hold my all-day-vapes, so I don't have to stop and fill a tank when I vape it dry. Currently on my desk are 4 box-mods (two with my two ADVs, two with other good flavors), and all the other tanks are sitting in the rack, filled, and ready to vape when I want them. Sooo, yes, as you progress into vaping, picking up a tank here, battery there... you will eventually have more than you "think" you'll need, lol, but as you start out, having a few tanks (I always like to suggest 3-4, minimum) and batteries (minimum of two) to keep you going through the day, and allows you to try new juice flavors, and still have a "current favorite" loaded and ready.

The adjustable airflow of a Nautilus (full-size or mini), or an AeroTank would allow you to customize your draw. The eLeaf iStick is a good battery (and will last far more than 4 hours, lol). I would suggest the 30W model, just because it has the floating pin and better 510 threading than the 20W model.

He has to have grub screws, because maggot screws just sound gross

Comp, I would use the ice-tray idea, but someone would just stick in my freezer

I play in a big cardboard box daily... I call it my "office'

Well, at least my package won't be lonely

Ouch... forget the transaction fee... the iSticks (20W) are US $32 each from the VaporTalk store, and many other sites, including the Chinese vendors aren't much more than that. I think the highest I've seen so far is $38 each?

So, if you order today, it should arrive just before Christmas? LOL What's killing me is the order I placed the first week of January from Fasttech FINALLY hit the mail system on 2/5. It made it's first two hops, but still hasn't even made it to Hong Kong yet If it doesn't make it out of the country before the Chinese New Year holiday, it will be mid-March before it hits the states (where I'll get to watch it rot in Customs for a week), and then on to me.

^^^^^^^ Sooooo Jealous ^^^^^^^

yes, with the added heat and vapor, nicotine will be flooded to your system. The general rule is whatever Nicotine level you vape in a tank... if using an RDA... cut it by half or 75%. I use 12-15mg in my Kanger tanks... 12mg in my RTA's, and when I drip (RDA), I drop to 3mg or 6mg (max).

^^ This ^^ Also remember, it is VV OR VW, not both at the same time. You set the Voltage, the mod reads the resistance of the coil, and provides the correct Wattage based on Ohm's Law.... OR... you set the Wattage, the mod reads resistance, and applies the correct Voltage to provide the Wattage you specified. This tends to be confusing for someone who has never used one before, but as long as you realize you can only set ONE variable, not both at the same time, you're golden Start at a low setting, either in Wattage or Voltage mode... vape, add more power/Voltage, vape, repeat... once you get a slightly burnt flavor you know the upper limit of the juice has been reached. Go through the loop on the adjustment again, to select a notch or two lower than where you tasted a little burnt flavor... that should be the sweet-spot for that juice/tank/coil combo. If you change juice, tank, or coil resistance, you may need to dial-in for a new sweet-spot.

A Fluke meter is good... the only reason I suggest a dedicated vaping Ohm meter is they make a good, stable platform to build on, and they make measuring resistance a hands-free operation I used my Fluke as well, until I tried a dedicated meter.... The purple Efest IMR 35A is a good battery (if it is a true Efest, not a re-wrapped factory second or knock-off), and will handle super sub-ohms, so yes, the shop is correct that it will handle builds down to 0.12 Ohm... should you dare to go that low... but 1.2 Ohms @ 4.1V would draw 34A and be a super-hot 140W! Just be aware of the battery getting hot if you're building sub-ohm builds... The Sony VTC4 is rated to 20A continuous, but has a high pulse rate... if memory serves, something like 60A? The VTC5 (those actually made by Sony - very few are, according to Sony) are rated the same discharge as the VTC4, but have a higher capacity (mAh).

Yes, it can be overwhelming, lol... To make it easy, just select a gauge of wire. For an RDA like the Plume, I'd go with 28ga for simplicity. It is thick enough to work with, and still thin enough to allow you to have room for error in your wraps. When you use the calculator, plugging in the known value of 28ga, and using a known size drill bit to wrap on are easy enough to plug in. Then select the desired Ohms you want to hit... which for your DNA20 must be above 1.0... so select 1.2 Ohms for a nice round number. For this coil, you would make 8 wraps around a 2mm drill bit (both legs/leads facing the same side). This will give you a 1.2 Ohm single-coil. If you wanted a dual-coil build, you would make two identical coils, 16 wraps (each) around the same 2mm drill bit. All of this came from the online calculator, and it is for reference... the only way to be sure of the coil you built is to use an Ohm meter! You still need an Ohm meter to verify you did it correctly, and that you don't have any shorts before attempting to fire it. Once you confirm it is built correctly, wick it with the wick of your choice, add juice, and vape! Again, the reason you're getting "check atomizer" is not because it is necessarily "unsafe", but because the resistance of the coil your attempting to use is below the capability of the device. The DNA20 will not fire any coil below 1.0 Ohms, and may even be picky about those in the 1.1 Ohm range... which is why I suggested a 1.2 Ohm build... and you can go higher, if you add wraps to the coil. A thicker gauge wire will take more wraps to make the same resistance. A thinner gauge wire (like 32ga) will take less wraps to make the same 1.2 Ohms.

Welcome to VT! First off... how do you know the ohms of the RDA? Did they check it at the shop, or did they just "guess"? You really should purchase a dedicated Ohm meter for your own use at home if you plan to rebuild. That Tesla Mod is a cool looking MOD... my son bought me one for Christmas (and I refuse to use it, lol). YES, it will work with your Nautilus... think of it as nothing more than a Spinner set at 3.7-3.9V... as the battery runs down, it will produce less vapor... at that time you know it's time to charge the battery. I've used my mechs with regular tanks many times. Gauge of wire is personal preference, based on the coil you are trying to build. Use an online calculator like Steam-Engine.org to find out how many wraps, what diameter mandrel, and what gauge wire combos produce what desired resistance... and then use a meter to VERIFY before you fire it!! Safety First! Yes, if you build a higher Ohm coil (.75... 1.2... etc) it will be a cooler vape, and will not produce as much vapor (because it is getting less power to the coil), but that will be better for your battery. NOW, what battery do you have? Many shops will tell you anything you want to hear, but it may not be true!

Congrats Duke! I think you'll be quite pleased with the MVP 2.0. I was never a fan of the iClear tanks, but I think you'll really like the KPT3-mini

Welcome... First of all... the reason your MOD is reading "check atomizer" is because the coil she gave you is below 1 Ohm (sub-ohm), and your DNA20 will not fire any coil below 1 Ohm. We're all for helping, and guiding you along, but first thing is first... you need to get a proper, dedicated Ohm Meter for checking your builds BEFORE you attempt to fire them with any mod... catastrophic "booms" can and will occur with improper equipment and super-low Ohm builds! Safety First! The only way to get your DNA20 to fire the Plume Veil is to build the coil above 1.0 Ohms. The type of wire and thickness is up to you... Kanthal A-1 in 30ga, 28ga, 26ga will be perfectly fine (and up to you) How many wraps? Use an online calculator like Steam-Engine.org to determine coil builds... and LEARN Ohm's Law (again, Safety!) Cotton will be your choice... Silica wick, Standard Cotton, Organic Cotton, Japanese Cotton, Rayon... all useable... Organic cotton, Rayon, and Silica are easiest to work with (don't require boiling or prep-work). Watch LOTS of youtube videos, buy an Ohm Meter, and buy a MOD (and battery) that are safe for sub-ohming . There are hundreds of threads on here with TONS of info on builds, batteries, MODs, cotton, and how-to's... you don't have to read them, but it is honestly easier to skim a few dozen posts than it is for you to wait for 50 people to comment on this post

Those "lipstick" and makeup stands work well, but so does a hunk of wood with a few 6-8mm holes drilled into it so the 510 connections will set inside the hole, and the base of the tank will rest comfortably on the wood. There are fancier things to store your tanks on while at home, but I find a few well-placed holes in a piece of scrap lumber (can fancy it up if you want with beveled edges and stain) works wonderfully Here is one I made recently while watching TV one evening... scrap wood, routed an edge on it, sanded, stained, and drilled 16, 8mm holes, 1" apart, and 1/2" from the outer edge (Wood is 5" x 5" on top - inside the bevel). Additional holes are drilled evenly between the main 16, to allow for mini tanks or oversize tanks and different configurations: It doesn't stop them from getting knocked over, but it does make them more stable and they don't fall over if someone walks heavily through the house!

Welcome to V|T! I'm not sure what your question is... When I stick a tank in my storage rack, it is usually full, and ready to vape when I want it. Sure, there are sometimes 1/2-full tanks in the rack, but that is not an issue for storage, as I'll vape it empty eventually. Now, it is not a good idea to store one that is less than 1/3 full, as it may leak over time. If you're storing a tank long-term, it is best to have it full or completely empty (clean and ready for juice). Traveling with 1/2 full bottles... never an issue... the bottle seals with the lid and is no different than a full one... it shouldn't leak or cause any problems, and it will not affect the juice in the least, other than allowing a little more Oxygen to it, which will actually (usually) make the flavor BETTER, as the juice ages and flavors are more pronounced as they Oxygenate. This is not always true, but I've yet to find a juice that didn't taste better as it aged/Oxygenated. If you're looking for a good way to travel with your devices and juice, there are hundreds of vape-cases out there in the market... some only hold one device, some hold dozens, with special pockets or straps to hold multiple bottles of juice or tanks.

My Vapor Store has them for $64 right now, and VaporDNA has them for $63 (after10% off with code DNA10) Most everyone has the black ones out of stock... and the special editions with the antelope on them are going fast. I think once the 'special-editions' are sold out, the price will drop to $59 (or even lower). The difference between the KPT2 and KPT3 minis are the coils (and drip-tip style). The KPT2-mini is a single-coil design, and the KPT3-mini is a dual-coil. Both are excellent! I personally prefer the KPT3-mini because the style is a little more "industrial" with squared shoulders and straight-pipe drip-tip, but the coils are a bit more expensive (and last roughly the same time).... but the dual coils do produce a bit more vapor and flavor from such a small tank. Some say the dual-coils are a hotter vape, but you can always move to a higher Ohm coil to make it cooler. To me, a 1.8 Ohm single OR dual coil is perfect in the minis (for most any juice I use).