Earthling789

If your flavor is PG based, then yes, adding 10% flavor to 90% VG will give you a 90/10 VG/PG mix. If you're adding any nicotine, then it is best to use a calculator like the one @Walt suggested, so you can make sure you get things exactly right. But if you're shooting for zero nicotine, you can use simple math to get what you want.

Most of the "green apple" juices I've tried are REALLY strong, and need to be mixed with something else. I use to mix mine with an equal amount of caramel or vanilla cream to soften them out. Now that I mix my own juices, when I use tart apple flavors, I use very little, compared to other flavorings, but caramel apple or apple/vanilla/custard are a couple of my favorites. Milk chocolate and apple aren't bad together, but I still prefer a little caramel to make it pop

I mix my juices in beakers or Erlenmeyer flasks... VG goes in first, then PG (if needed), and then Nicotine solution. I use a magnetic stirrer to start the mixing process for about 3-5 minutes at a very light vortex in the beaker, and then add flavorings, upping the speed to a tiny tornado-vortex. I let the whole thing mix slow for about 20-30 minutes, then fill my 30ml and 60ml amber Boston bottles I normally mix 600ml batches (in 1000ml containers), but do the same process (in smaller 500ml flasks) for 240-300ml batches... or (larger 2000ml flasks) for 900-1500ml batches I prefer mixing in flasks because the angled sides promotes better mixing, less spatters, and less Oxygenation of the Nicotine while it's mixing (juices don't go dark from over-aeration). Getting a good initial mix reduces any need for steeping, although they do taste a little better after they sit for a couple days. I don't think longer steeping helps the flavor much because juices I mixed months ago taste just as good as the ones I mixed this past week. Oh, and my mixer also has a heating-plate, but I've never used it to heat juice while mixing... although I'm sure it would really bring out flavor faster... but I mix my juices weeks before I run out of something, so it's rarely vaped the day it's made, unless I'm just testing a sample, lol

My daily drivers: Wismec Presa 75W-TC running Ni200 0.2 Ohm coil, Kangertech 50W Subbox kit running 1.2 Ohm or 0.5 Ohm horizontal coils, Kangertech 75W-TC Topbox kit running 316L SS coil at 0.5 Ohm, Vaporesso Target Pro 75W-TC running 316L SS coil at 0.5 Ohm I mostly use Subtank/Toptank minis, but also use Subtank nanos. I've got plenty of mods to rotate through, but those are just the ones on my desk at the moment :D

I don't use eGo batteries any more, so now I'm using a pair of those single, round knob "stands" as great looking pen/pencil holders on my desk

Here is one I made for storing tanks and a couple of eGo-style batteries, for a fellow member... It is made with a 4x6 piece of scrap Poplar, holes drilled, and the round eGo stands are round closet door knobs I picked up in a box-lot some years ago... everything sanded, stained, and sealed with satin polyurethane. I've made several more of different sizes... using scrap wood... This 4x4" block holds 16 tanks up to 23mm size, and still has room between them for EVOD size (16-18mm) tanks (and you can also see another re-purposed door knob glued to a small disk which was left over from cutting a hole):

I took an old cigar humidor (as I don't need it anymore) and lined it with royal blue velvet, and use it to display my mech-mods (sorry, no pics). Sadly, it just sits on the shelf and nobody really ever sees it (including me), so it was a nice project, but in reality, wasted time/money... because I could have sold the humidor to a cigar smoker and not wasted time and money converting it to a "display case" that is never seen. The rest of my stuff is sitting on a shelf in my office (five 5' adjustable, wall-mounted shelving from Lowes)... mostly just the juices I'm using daily and mods/tanks I use frequently. Everything else I have is boxed up in their original packaging and sitting on another shelf, in case I need them, or want to sell them or pay them forward to a new vaper that needs a helping hand. The shelves are so I could have a place for things like vape gear and office supplies, printer, fax, as well as my model cars and other gadgets... on the wall in my office, rather than in boxes or all over my desk. :D The 4-5 tanks I use in regular rotation are sitting on a block of wood (with 3/8" holes drilled for the 510 connection to sit into). The block is sanded, stained, routed-edge, and looks decent enough. The mods I use are just sitting next to it. Batteries are in plastic boxes so I can grab them in proper rotation. All of these things are on my desk, in front of my PC monitors for easy access. I also have a Nitecore i2 charger on my desk, and two i4 chargers on the shelf. It's not much of a "display" per-se, but it's not like I'm making a big presentation for visitors... it's just basic organization for my own needs. 2-3 three-foot shelves store a LOT of stuff... All of my juice mixing supplies are stored in the mini-fridge in my office, and glassware is on a smaller shelf above the fridge, so I can mix juices as I need

If you are in stealth-mode, it will still fire and work, but the screen will be blank. If it still works, do what @FXRich said and that will take it back to "normal" mode. If it doesn't fire, then stealth-mode isn't the issue... you may just have a defective unit and it will need to be returned under warranty.

I've shopped a lot of online stores, and for a long time, VapeNW, VapeRoyalty, 101Vape, and Sweet-Vapes got most of my hardware business, but I must say... now that @Christopher has taken the reins back on the VT Store, I've not spent a dime at any of those other sites (and don't plan to unless I have to)!

In a Kanthal or NiChrome coil, I prefer 1.2 Ohm as my ADV coil, but if I'm using TC mode, I use 316L SS at 0.3 - 0.5 Ohm or Ni200 at 0.15 - 0.2 Ohm

@Tam is correct. The Kanger mini boxes have a spring-loaded pin, but it doesn't take much for them to get gummed-up from leaking juice or dirt. Once they are "sticky", they won't spring back into proper position to make contact with the tank, especially if the tank's center pin is short. Remove the battery to prevent shorts, and then lift the center pin using tweezers or gently "pry" it up using a small screwdriver wedged into it from the side. It only takes a tiny bit to make contact again, so don't try to pull it all the way out

^^This^^ With any tank, overfilling will cause spit-back, leaking, or flooding... a leaking coil (improper wicking) will cause juice to build up in the tube and/or run out the air-holes... A poorly sealing tank (chipped glass, bad o-ring) will cause the tank to lose negative pressure (vacuum seal), which will allow juice to leak into the center tube or air-holes... A coil not fully seated properly into the base or attached to the center tube will work the same to lose negative pressure, or create an all-out leak... Using too low of a Wattage/Voltage for your coil will cause juice to not fully vaporize, resulting in spit-back, popping, or liquid remaining in the tube... This last one is the usual suspect

That is exactly what @FXRich was saying... MECH MODS do NOT have safety features found in regulated mods, and if you build a bad coil or have a short, a regulated mod will shut itself down before a catastrophe happens... a mech will overheat, short, and potentially blow up (especially when using a cheap, low-Amp-load battery). This is why anyone using a mech SHOULD test their coil builds, either with a regulated mod, or with a respectable Ohm Meter before firing the coil on the mech. His answer was spot-on to the OP... testing the build on the eVic is a good idea and just as reliable as testing on the eLeaf REGULATED MOD. Seriously... no need to be so defensive over mechs... it seems most of your posts are hyper-defensive / hyper-sensitive over mechs, and while you opinion does and should matter on the subject... not everyone agrees they are the end-all-be-all of vaping. Many of us still use mechs too (although not as frequently as a couple years ago), and it is common consensus around here (VT Forum) that regulated mods are more mainstream because they are safer (primarily) as they safeguard against shorts and bad builds! My (and many other's) preference to a regulated mod is the simple fact that they deliver a consistent vape throughout the entire functional life of the battery's charge, rather than a constantly declining voltage application to the coil, like a mech mod does.... Regulated mods have come a long way in a short time, and even major cloud-chasers use them... because today's regulated mods can handle (safely) builds down in to the 0.1 Ohm (and even lower) range. Regulated mods of a couple years ago could barely handle builds down around the 1.0 Ohm range, which is why mechs were the preference of cloud-chasers, drippers, and those who built sub-ohm coils.... mechs were the only way to fire those coils back then! Today, there are much better, safer, and plenty of design options in regulated mods....

Have you considered the Kanger Subtank Mini? They're great tanks, good flavor, plenty of pre-made coil choices available, and they come with an RBA deck so you can build your own coils to suit your needs/preferences.

Pricey stuff... but diluted down to 100mg/ml ($23/L of 100mg/ml) that is still about $10 less than I've been paying per liter. I just wouldn't want to be the one to cut it down from 1000mg to 100mg/ml without a clean-room and haz-mat suit with respirator. I'm shocked they are selling to the general public at that strength!

Where on earth did you get 100%??? You have to have a manufacturing license or hazardous materials permit/license to buy/possess 100%, pure Nicotine. I would personally not get anywhere near any concentration over 50% because it would be more dangerous than handling TNT or Sulfuric Acid, lol I think the highest strength anyone can buy without a license/permit is 100mg/ml, which is 10% solution. I may be wrong, but it's the highest strength I've been able to find, and I've looked for 20-25%!

100mg/ml is 10% strength Nicotine and it won't kill you unless you are bathing in it or drinking it... but momentary contact to your skin can give you an increased heart-rate, heart palpitations, sweating, and/or nausea.... and if you have sensitivity/mild-allergy, it could put you in the hospital. All Nicotine should be kept FAR away from children and pets! All that being said, yes, dealing with any concentration beyond 3% Nicotine strength should be done carefully and with surgical gloves, sleeves, eye, and face protection... no matter how careful you are, you WILL get some on you at some point in time! I've been a chemist for 35 years, and have had some pretty nasty stuff spilled/splattered on me in my days... and I still gear-up when handling my Nicotine

Agree 1000%

Personally, I'd never pick it up if you never smoked. It is a great way (probably the best method) to quit smoking, but in all honesty, long-term effects are not known. Seriously, I'd find something else to invest hundreds of dollars into that may be more beneficial to your lifestyle. If you must, you must... but please take @Foofightervapegirl's advice and DO NOT GET ANY ELIQUIDS WITH NICOTINE IN THEM, if you do pick up vaping.

I've had mixed results from VapeNW on their pre-orders... sometimes you have to wait longer than if you just order one when it comes out. If memory serves, @jasonculp pre-ordered a really pretty mod from a different site (not VapeNW) a couple years ago, and they never delivered it because they never actually received them to sell. Unless it is a special edition or limited release, I'd just wait until they are actually released for sale and buy it then.

I love dobermans... I use to breed them back in the stone-age, lol... I've not had one in about a decade (actually my daughter's dog), and I really miss the cuddly land-sharks Your girl is adorable, and I hope you get the boy so they can have a friend to play with... I have Great Dane's now... and my female is pregnant... so I'll have a house full of them around the first of April. I'm not sure if I'm excited or terrified, lol

@FXRich is right on mixing your own... you spend a few bucks getting started, but you save in the long run! Just tonight, I mixed 600ml of juices for me, and another 300ml of juice for my fiance'... and I doubt I have $10-11 in the entire 900ml? Nicotine is your real expense, and if you are vaping low levels, a 250-500ml bottle of 10% strength will mix gallons of e-liquid. As for hobbies to do cheap... the sky is the limit... what are some things YOU like to do, or ever thought of doing? Painting, photography, jogging, small-engine-repair, flower arranging, building computers....

In a nutshell, you're probably using a lower Nicotine level, your juice isn't giving a lot of throat hit, or you're just use to the throat hit/heat? The higher VG content will lower the effect of Throat Hit for most people. I'm like you... I often use 50/50 or 40/60 (PG/VG) juices with my 0.5 and 0.3 Ohm coils, but I do use lower Nicotine levels (about half) than I would use with my 1.2 Ohm coils, due to the increased absorption of Nicotine at higher heat, and the bigger clouds mean more volume being brought into my system on every hit.

Yes, there are other resistance options, but I'm not sure what are available for that tank. What was the resistance of the Kanger coil you were using? I'd say there is a huge difference in resistance and you'll need to drop your Nicotine to 2 or 3mg... and when you go below 0.5 Ohms on a coil, you really should use juices with higher VG content... 50% minimum, 70% as an average, and preferably 80% if the coil will wick it.

What is the resistance of your current coil? What was the resistance of the Kanger coil you were using? Chances are that your coil resistance has dropped significantly and you are getting over-absorption of your Nicotine. As you lower the resistance of your coil, you MUST also lower the Nicotine level by the same %... Example, if you drop from 1.5 Ohm coil to a 0.5 Ohm coil, and you were using 18mg juice, you must drop to 6mg juice to get the same effect.