Earthling789

I forgot about the Goblin... I pre-ordered one from GearBest... maybe it will arrive before 4th of July

EhPro makes a good clone, that's for sure! I hope that info above will highlight the differences for you and help your decision process. I would avoid the 3.1 Version, as they are a pain to fill, and the spring-loaded ball-bearing that seals the fill-port is prone to failure/leakage.

Here's some info I put together when I was deciding which one to buy: Russian 91% - Bottom fill through recessed port, with o-ring for better seal. Air-flow adjustment is on the side of the base (no need to remove from MOD to adjust. (V2 has adjustable 510 pin). KayFun Light Plus V1 - Bottom fill through slightly recessed port, with o-ring for better seal. Air-flow adjustment is on the bottom of the base. KayFun Light Plus V2 - Bottom fill through deeper recessed port (deeper than V1), with o-ring for better seal. Air-flow adjustment is on the bottom of the base. Also to note top-cap has bevel for drip-tip and different drip-tip style (not smooth tube like V1 or Russian). KayFun 3.1 - Side fill through recessed port, with o-ring seal. Air-flow adjustment also on the side (similar to the Russian). The change in the base makes the 3.1 taller than the Russian, but more Russian-like at least with air-flow adjustment location. The 3.1 also retains the Russian/KFL+V1 top-cap and drip-tip style. The center-pin of the 3.1 is also adjustable like the Russian.

Between the V1 and V2 of the KFL+, I prefer the V1... but that's just me

Yes, they do... but are they accurate? I can check my atty on both my dedicated meters and my Fluke DMM, and they will be the same, or within 0.02 Ohms. Putting that same atty on my different box-mods... and they will read +/- 0.2 Ohms from the dedicated meters. Some devices may read even farther away from the real resistance. I will say that my IPV-minis read the closest of all my box-mods, but even that doesn't guarantee all of the IPV's are accurate.

Awesome! Glad you got it running right! I'm slightly jealous now

Congrats on a major milestone Fish!

Might have been bad before... or, most likely the other guy drained them too far down, thus damaging them.

Wow, there are LOTS of them out there... I love my Russian 91% RTA's, but also regularly use my Kayfun V4 and Orchid V4. To me, the flavor and ease of build can't be beat with a Russian or Kayfun. The Orchid is a bit tricky to build on, but not bad, and you run dual coils on it. The Squape Reloaded (which I'm waiting for delivery ) is really easy to build on, but a pain to fill without a long-nose or needle-tip, because of the way you fill around the chimney. Also, for ease of filling, the Russian, Orchid, and Kayfun Lite Plus are probably the easiest to fill (bottom port), with the Kayfun V4 being the winner of "easy" with their top-fill design and juice-flow cut-off.... their down-fall is the spring connector that plays havoc with your resistance readings...

Well, that means it's not spring-loaded, but that's not a bad thing... very few of mine are spring-loaded, and they don't give me any grief... although I have had to "nudge" my MVP's center pin once or twice before to raise it up after a tank had pushed it too low... not a bad thing....

I think you're right... the "starter-kit" is already evolving... My local shop still has the basic EVOD/EVOD2 starter kits, but they also put together (and suggest) people start out with slightly higher-end gear... like 30W box-mods combo'd with ProTanks, Nautilus, Subtank-mini, etc. etc. Some companies (like eLeaf, Kanger, and Aspire) are getting the hint too... and marketing (and even packaging) things together... like the Kanger K-box paired with a Subtank-mini or pair of Aerotanks for ~ $60... If I were a Noob, I'd be all over that kind of deal as a starter kit Most people starting out, though, can't take the hit of $50 box-mods and a pair of $20-40 tanks... and then get hit with the cost of coils and still haven't even bought their first bottle of juice! I know my first expense of $70 to get started was a huge pocket-hit (two eGo's, two tanks, charger, case, and juice), but then again, it gave me incentive to NOT buy another carton of smokes since I just invested all that money

That's awesome to help out your sister by paying forward your gear! I'm sure the MVP and Nautilus will help her greatly... I know my MVP was the game-changer for me when I started vaping Flavors are subjective, but I think all smokers looking to quit have the mental need for a tobacco flavor, but she'll soon realize other flavors exist The i23 appears to be a custom-build/logo version of the iStick @23W? It has the same size and look (even colors) of the iStick 20W, but seems to have a different programming on the chipset and hopefully the 510 connection has been upgraded to spring-loaded like the iStick 30W.... and hopefully the programming has been changed to RMS, which will make these superior in performance to the iStick 20W!

Yep, something isn't right... fully charged, those batteries should push 4.1V minimum (closer to 4.2V) and @ 0.6 Ohms, that's 28-29W! I'm leaning towards bad batteries... but you'll only know that if you can get a meter on them. Cleaning your MOD should have minimized Voltage drop issues, and an all Copper Cartel should have negligible Voltage drop! Copper is an EXCELLENT conductor of electricity Thinking back... 5.5 hours on the charger to reach full on the i2 power meter seems high too... even when I've drained mine to minimum levels, they charge fully within 3 hours on my i4 charger. That may be a good indication those batteries were drained too low (before you got them) and are now damaged, or the were a bad batch to begin with?

I'm curious on the 150W+ box mods too... Even with my RDA's built to 0.2 Ohm or lower, I've never reached the 70W limit of my IPV-mini2 before reaching a burnt/hot/harsh vape. I understand some of the cloud chasers running 100%VG @ sub 0.1 Ohm that NEED 150W+, but for the remaining 99.5% of us, under 100W will be ample power Then again, there are a lot of people out there that think they NEED high power (thanks to mis-information from B&M employees looking to make sales)... like the co-worker that was complaining that her juice didn't taste that good since switching to an iStick 30W... she was using an MT3 @ 2+ Ohms... high PG juice (80/20) and was using the full 30W!! Duh, I think I see your issue, there, lol.... I explained that her coil and juice cannot handle that much power, but she said "the guy at the shop told me I'd get more flavor and vapor if I used higher Watts..."

NP... let us know how it works tomorrow!

I've cleaned heavily oiled ones with a little dish-soap and warm water... just make sure to let all the parts dry WELL before you re-assemble it. If it is just a little oily/dirty, a good metal polish and soft cloth will do just as well. Use a nail-brush or old toothbrush for the threaded areas and be sure to polish it to a high-shine. I also put a tiny bit of Vaseline on the threaded areas, especially on Copper mods, to prevent the parts from locking together. Copper is really bad for that!

Did you clean it well? Sometimes the excess machining oils and packing oil can cause huge Voltage drops when you fire it. One of the Brass mods I have did exactly that until I cleaned it top to bottom, inside and out... including all the threaded areas... After it was cleaned well, it worked beautifully. If that is not the case, perhaps someone can give you an hand with adjusting it properly for optimal performance. The Cartel is a good looking mod, and should work as good as it looks

Odd... perhaps you need to adjust your top-connector screw for a better/tighter connection? Four Watts is not a lot of power, but in the scheme of overall power, 25W is 20% more power than the mech can produce, so that is a huge difference

Yep, the cartridge-sub-ohm tank is becoming the new "must-have" for vaping. I've almost pulled the trigger on a Kanger Sub-tank mini several times, but I keep remembering that I have more than a dozen RTAs, and I don't "need" another one... until I do

A mechanical mod @ 4.1V and 0.8 Ohms, is only 21W of power. I'm assuming you run your IPV-mini higher than that? If so, that would make the difference, because the mech cannot possibly produce more Wattage unless you lower the resistance of your atty.

As it charges, the lights blink, one light, then two, then three, when they're all solid, it's fully charged For the initial charge of a new battery, I like to charge them, then pull them off the charger for about 4 hours, then put them back on the charger. When you say "barely works", did you check it with a volt-meter to see if it was charged?

Trade secret.... so, Drano Crystals?

Comp, I think the warning label on their bottles of cleaning powder say it all

The batches I've bought were in plastic, so I don't see a problem with plastic or glass. As long as you keep it in a cool, dark place, it should be fine either way. Comp may weigh in on glass vs plastic since he's been doing this FAR longer than I have

36mg is a good base to start with... and relatively safer, too... if you drip a drop onto your skin, it won't be nearly as bad as 100mg 100ml of 36mg will be like getting 300ml of 12mg, so you're also saving $ in the long-run by buying a higher concentration... I still recommend getting it in pure VG solution... I've tried it in pure PG, and it added a really harsh taste to my juices.... but that is my opinion, too...