Earthling789

Anything packed in vinegar has a shelf-life of the end of time

Exactly, Tam... if I had any real $$ invested in it, I would have reason to be upset I think I've done everything within my power to make this work, but it is just too far gone... the build quality of the deck (at least) is probably the worst I've seen in ANY clone over the past year... and I have clones from good and bad cloning companies... I just hope my review will save anyone else from wasting their money on this particular clone, and maybe my comments will find their way back to the factory, so they can address the build-quality? If all of them are this poorly made, Gear Best will be receiving a lot of returns/complaints!

Okay... I'll probably never know how this vapes I got back home today, and things were dry, so I attempted to build the deck... Well, major fail! The non-conductive decks are too short, or the screw posts are too tall, because the screw heads do not contact the deck as they should, and cannot capture the wire. The screw posts stick above the top of the deck by just over 1/4mm, and the screws contact the posts, not the deck. I attempted to "raise" the deck slightly by putting the o-ring from a KPT2 coil-head under the deck, to keep it from bottoming-out (no the deck's outer-edge o-ring does not hold it that firmly in place), and that was not enough to keep it held firm above the screw-posts. At this time, it is not possible to attach a coil wire (smaller than 20ga?) securely. Now for the BAD news The non-conductive decks are apparently conductive!! As you can see from the image below, with the deck-base seated properly, and without a coil or screw attached, the entire base is reading a 3.31 Ohm resistance! Also, you can see (slightly) how the screw posts rise above the deck, where they should be BELOW the deck, so the screw heads can capture the wire against the deck. I'm going to continue playing with this, just to see if I can ever get it to work, but I must give this a HUGE Thumbs Down! Gear Best will be notified of my findings, as well, and let's hope this particular RTA is that one in 10,000 that is crap, but something tells me that it's not....

^^ This ^^ I saw his first or second video last year. I thought it was an ingenious design, but not exactly mass-produced

B, I agree it would be a huge $$ maker for someone, but my limited engineering experience sees several hurdles to overcome... the main one being the fact that it would be hard to seal the 510 connection and still allow for air-flow to the tank... the problem goes up exponentially for eGo connections. You can seal the battery and electronics for waterproofing, but your #1 failure point is the contact for the 510... just think how many of us have had a juice leak that follows the center pin and contaminates the internal circuitry? I, too will keep my eye open for something that is at least water resistant, but I think true IP67 waterproofing is going to be a vaping unicorn

Yeah, I think failure to provide the proper size Allen wrench is a huge FAIL on the part of this clone kit. I can deal with the plastic tank section, as I have glass tanks available for tank-cracking juices, but there are soooo many people out there (even veteran vapers) that continue to use tank-cracking juices in plastic tanks, and then complain about failure... The screws are Philips-head, size #1 heads, and the screwdriver provided is the standard #00 "blue" screwdriver, so it is basically useless. I would have rather had the Allen wrench provided, and lost the screwdriver! Everything else is fine, and workable. I can't wait to build it and give it a good vape!

I have used 80% VG in my KPT2 @ 1.5 Ohm and 1.8 Ohm without issue. YES, you will need to heed Tam's warning about slower wicking, due to thicker juice! Once you fill the tank, allow it to soak the juice for a good 5 minutes (or longer), and chain vaping thick juice will increase the chance of a dry hit or burnt hit... not that it will be a guarantee, but you should be aware it is more possible to happen with higher VG juices.

First off, I want to thank the folks at Gear Best for providing this RTA for my review! It arrived this morning, and immediately on unpacking, I noticed how beautiful the device is. The kit includes drip-tip and all three build-deck platforms (Compact, Standard, and Wide). Also included is spare o-rings, silica wick, three 26ga coils (@ 0.70 - 1.0 Ohm), and a tiny "blue" screwdriver (which is too small for the heads of the deck screws ). What is MISSING from the kit is the all-important ALLEN WRENCH!!! I have SAE and Metric Allen wrenches, and NONE of them properly fit the chimney section, so I am unable to remove it for proper cleaning (yet)!! Fast-forward... pre-assembly and testing build quality... Air-flow control valve is crisp and all holes line-up correctly Base threading is smooth and o-ring seals tight Drip-tip has double o-ring and fits perfectly, no wobble, not too tight All 3 build-decks fit snug and correctly Coil mounting screws have nice, wide heads, but one of them has/had a bur in the post, which preventing tightening on a coil leg until I cleaned the bur/threading... now it works as it should Adjustable 510 pin is nice, smooth, and does not bottom-out too high (actually can be set flush with 510 threads) Critical Failures with this clone.... RTA uses plastic for the viewing window, not Boro-silicate glass like the authentic (so, no using tank-cracking juices) Failure to provide an Allen wrench to allow consumer to remove the chimney section for cleaning or changing upper o-ring Screwdriver provided is WAY too small to effectively torque deck screws One machining bur found on the deck post, which the average consumer would not be able to remove because not everyone owns a tap/die set! I have it soaking in hot soapy water right now, and then it will undergo sonic-cleaning (since I can't remove the chimney). After a hot-water rinse/soak, Vodka soak, and air-dry, I'll do a build on it late tonight or tomorrow and report back on how it vapes!

Tam is correct... coil resistance has nothing (really) directly related to vapor production. Resistance (lower) allows for higher Amps, and thus higher Wattage when using a mechanical device. Since you're using a VV/VW device, resistance is not relevant because YOU can set the Wattage or Voltage to provide the power you desire. Using a 1.8 Ohm coil, high VG juice, and setting the Wattage to the sweet-spot of the juice (which may be 7W, may be 15W, who knows... ) will provide you the max in flavor and vapor of the juice. Sure, you can go lower Ohms, even sub-ohms, but VG content is the key to vapor...

I thought the newest version of the E-LVT was waterproof (submersible)? Well, nope, it's not... it's rated at IPX-1, which translates to "can survive splashes", to be fully submersible, it would need to be rated at IPX-7 or IP-67.

I agree! I get very nice "clouds" out of the Aerotank V2's I've been using in the car and at work (thanks again, Tam). With a stock 1.8 Ohm coil @ 10.5W (Cloupor Mini), running 50/50 juice... I have to keep the window cracked so i can see to drive That same juice in my Russian, 1.4 Ohm @ 12.5W, and the cloud is even more dense (and quite creamy and satisfying)! I mixed a batch of the same flavor at 30/70, and I'm almost afraid to try it anywhere but at home... I think the cloud rolling out of my car window would be reminiscent of "Cheech and Chong" movies

Hey, I've only spent $100 of other people's money this week... (although the week isn't over yet )

Well, break out your wallet Seriously, bigger clouds are going to come from VG content, more-so than the tank. Yes, sub-ohming will allow you to push more power (Wattage), generate more heat, etc., but you don't have to sub-ohm to get a good, satisfying cloud. For plug-and-play sub-ohm, I can recommend the Kanger Sub-tank (full-size or mini, and you also get the RBA deck to customize/build yourself). The Delta II is getting good reviews as well (but I've not tried one). I've tried the Atlantis, and wasn't sold on it... not to mention if you want any "real" capacity, you have to spend even more to upgrade the tank size. Personally, I get fantastic clouds from my RTA's (Russian 91%, Orchid, Kayfun V4, etc., all built ABOVE 1.3 Ohm) and amazingly enough, even my Aerotanks @ 1.5 Ohm and 50/50 to 30/70 juice ratio are enough to force me to crack the window in my car or turn on a fan in the room. If you're going to sub-ohm, stick with a battery system that can handle it! Safety First!! Your i23 can go to 0.3 Ohms, which means you can run a Sub-tank or similar 0.5 Ohm rig safely with it. Moving up to an iStick 50W will give you more power (capacity) as well as more Wattage for juices / tanks that can be pushed above 20W, AND a sealed battery like the iStick means you don't have to worry about knock-off/fake batteries, additional chargers, or the additional stress of knowing more about battery technology than the manufacturer's engineering team

I've bought batteries from Amazon vendors, but I will read their vendor rating and avoid "new" vendors or the ones in China. There are several electronics vendors that sell through Amazon, and if they've been around more than a year, they're probably a reputable source of authentic products. Amazon isn't like eBay, where they let ANY shady vendor exist to rip people off for years. Amazon doesn't put up with bad vendors, and Prime customers are covered with returns and guarantees!

Not sure what you pay online, but my local B&M sells 30ml Fuzion juices at $14.15 (plus tax), but oddly enough, they don't seem to carry your favorite, Endless Summer

I've got a variable-speed stir-plate that I used 30-year ago in the chemistry lab (at my old job)... I wonder if it still works? Hmmmm.... I have been known to use the nylon paint-stirrers that you put into a drill to mix batters for cooking... I bet a small one of those (all nylon) on a small cordless drill or cordless screwdriver would work wonders for e-juice mixing!

My local B&M averages $10-12 per 30ml on basic juices... single-flavors... mass-produced stuff... etc. Premium lines are on par with everyone else's prices, and they sell at roughly the same price as online for for Five-Pawns, Suicide Bunny, Fuzion, Mad Alchemist, etc.etc. (and sometimes they're beating online prices, even without factoring shipping).

The burnt taste you're getting from the Nautilus is because the coils are not really designed to handle "massive Wattage", and your juice also has limits on how far it can be pushed. Some juices just taste best at 8-10W, regardless of tank or coil resistance, and some juices taste like wet socks if you sub-ohm (below 1-Ohm resistance), regardless of the Wattage. The suggestions above are good suggestions... I will say that the iStick 20W should be avoided, and go with the 30W or 50W version for better vaping experience. The KBox you have is perfectly suited for the Kanger Sub-tank or Sub-tank mini! Tanks are subjective... Everyone has their favorite or preference, and you'll get dozens of opinions, but at the end of the day, what works best for you is what you should be using And, what works for you today may not be your preferred set-up six months from now... that's the fun of the "hobby" side of vaping... all those shiny new toys! Enjoy the pursuit!

I have two Nitecore i4 chargers (not digital), and they are work-horses... I've not used the digital versions from Nitecore or Efest, but many of the members here have them and say they are reliable. I'm of the mindset that the more bells and whistles there are, the more that can go wrong, so I tend to gravitate to "simpler is better" (and cheaper, lol). Amazon is my source for best price on the two Nitecore I have purchased... both were purchased for < $15 each. You should check there to compare prices with other online retailers. Avoid eBay!

I noticed this a few months ago... I was vaping 18mg right up to bed-time and had restless sleep and woke up with headaches (Nicotine withdrawal). So, I started vaping 12mg in the evenings, and switched to 3mg or 6mg about an hour or so before bed. I slept MUCH better through the night, which also meant that I was able to achieve the same "rest" in fewer hours. Now, 5 or 6 hours of sleep feels better than what I was getting in 8! Also, your hydration level is paramount to a good sleep, too... be sure you are drinking enough water, especially before going to bed!

I thought I should chime in and clear this up... Amps are DRAWN, not pushed. If your device (PV) is rated @ 1A, then your charger must be rated at 1A MINIMUM, because that is what the receiving device will attempt to draw from the charger. If you hook it to a charger that is rated at 500mA (0.5A), it will charge, allbeit slower, but the stress (load) on the charger will cause it to heat up, possibly over-heat, and if it is a "cheap charger" (AKA Chinese junk), there is the possibility of fire (at the worst), or the charger's lifespan will be diminished (at best). Consequently, if you hook it to a charger capable of providing 2A, then your charger will be working at a maximum of half-load, and will be less likely to heat-up, over-heat, or cause any safety issues... of course, barring any electrical-circuit issues with the device being charged (such as dead-shorts, damaged circuits, damaged wires, damaged battery, etc.), which could cause the device to draw more Amps than it should. Bottom line, use a charger with an output rating of at LEAST the input rating of the device. Preferably, the charger's Amp-rating should be higher than the device it is charging. There is zero issue with using a wall-wart charger rated higher Amps than the device being charged, again, providing the device and charger are in good working order.

A major milestone in your new-found life! May you have many, many more!

Received another Cloupor mini (in silver) and three of the Efest zipper pouches (designed to carry 3 18650 batteries) from VapeNW.com. My plan is to use the pouches to carry one Cloupor min and full-size Kanger tank (or spare battery), or a pair of 30ml bottles in each pouch. These will be perfect for keeping my gear safe when traveling, or for keeping backups in one place!

Hmmm... I don't remember dangling any guitars in front of you

Don't' hang your head in shame over the trigger of driving and smoking... we've ALL been there! Especially, if you have more than 30-minutes of commute or if you drive for a living! I had to make the conscious effort to ride my motorcycle more often so I would not have the urge to light up every time my butt hit the seat of the car or truck I agree with Tam on the Anyvape Davide mini or Kanger ProTank2 Mini (or protank3 mini)... they're small, easily portable, and function very well. I recently bought two of the Davide minis (because they were dirt-cheap), and am VERY impressed. They have much better flavor than I remember my KPT2minis to have. I still like my KPT3minis, but they use dual-coil... and I like the look of them