Earthling789

Yeah, heavy use, or use at high Watts will drain them faster... I run my Russians between 10.5W and 15W, so one 2500mAh battery lasts through two tank-fulls, easily. I can get through 3 or 4 Aerotank refills on a battery... so still about the same volume of juice (7.5 - 10ml)

That yellow with the black stripes reminds me of the 1970 Mustang Mach-1 I had in my youth

All day? If I pop in a fresh battery in the morning, before I leave for work, I still have power left when I go to bed (usually), or at worst-case, I have to put in another battery late in the evening. Since everyone vapes different volumes of juice daily... I'll compare to volume... One 2500mAh battery usually carries me through two Russian 91% tanks (8-9 ml of juice)... sometimes I get a good start on the third tank-full, but never get a battery go carry though that 3rd tank.

I love the Aerotanks (V1 and V2)... I've dropped them, banged them around, and they keep right on working... I use the 1.5 Ohm coils 99% of the time, and I find them to be a perfect resistance for my juices.

One thing to look out for... higher mAh also means you sacrifice Amp-ratings (discharge). 18650's with 3600mAh capacity generally have < 10A discharge ratings (not to be used with sub-ohm coils). If you want a 20A rated (discharge) battery, you're best mAh ratings will be in the 2500 range... and as Tam indicated, 2100mAh should last a day (or most of it anyway). I get a full day (sometimes longer) out of my Samsung 25r's (20A discharge / 2500mAh capacity).

I remember my grandmother's old house with window wells... I also remember my father digging new curtain drains for them one weekend. I had no idea what he was doing (at the time), but getting to "play" on the backhoe and and "help" move all that gravel was pretty cool (I was maybe 4 or 5?)

Oh, man... I did that a while back... I thought I had another bottle of my ADV, but the spare was empty... That took me back to the days when I'd think I had a pack of smokes in my backpack or truck, and then realize the one I just finished WAS the spare from my backpack

Everything I've ever read on testing of the VTC4's has said 20A continuous....

Identical parallel batteries do double your load capabilities and mAh, while Voltage remains the same. Technically, VTC4's in parallel will allow you to push to 40A discharge and 4200mAh.... in a perfect world, that is... assuming both batteries are perfect. At 100W, a 0.2 Ohm coil is pulling 22.36 Amps, and the VTC4 is rated at 20A. Yes, they will pulse higher, but I personally would not push them that hard. Just like Comp said, you never know when your battery will not tolerate being pushed above it's nominal (read: safe) limits. For your 0.15 Ohm build @ 100W, you need something that can sustain 33.5 Amps. If you're going to fire ANY coils below 0.25 Ohms, you should invest in 35A batteries such as Efest's 35A (purple). Staying above 0.25 Ohm builds, and you should be able to safely use those Sony VTC4's all day long. Better safe than sorry... if you're going to build very low Ohms, invest in the highest Amp-rating you can, and purchase quality, reputable batteries!!

Both PG and VG are "safe", as in food-safe... PG exists in thousands of products you use daily... toothpaste, mouthwash, deodorant, cough-syrup (just to name a small few). VG is also found in many foods and drinks, as it is a natural (diabetic-safe) sweetener. PG allergies are more common than VG allergies, and both are really rare. PG allergies are a lot like latex allergies... contact causes irritation, and goes away soon after you remove that contact. But, your doctor can test for a PG allergy VERY easily, or you can do it yourself, simply by grabbing pure PG at your local grocery store or pharmacy and rub a little on your skin (arm, leg, stomach, etc.) and see if you get a reaction. If you do, simply wash it off, and the irritation will go away in a short time. I'm with Bebop on this one... if you vaped for 6-months, and never had an issue before now, I'm 99.99999% sure it is NOT the e-cig that is causing the problem. My guess is that you have finally rid yourself of all the toxins smoking has polluted your body with, and couple that with the stress of losing your job recently, and you're a prime candidate for minor stomach distress, ulcers, IBS, heart-burn (and the list goes on)... Either that, or the most recent batch of juice you picked up is bad, old, or your body just doesn't like that brand/flavor?

Yes, those charts may not be 100% correct for all combos of tanks, RTAs, RDAs... and all APVs, BUT, they are far from obsolete or incorrect. They provide a good starting point, and also provide a reference-point (for safety) for a new vaper, so they don't pick-up a new Nautilus, 1.6 Ohm coil, and then try to shoot 150W through their coil, causing possible, catastrophic outcomes

Purple!!

I love my MPV 2.0, even though it only goes to 11W... I'm considering getting the 3.0 Pro model, in the limited-edition gold. To me, the MVP line from Innokin are bullet-proof devices, and I've never had any issues recommending them to anyone!

My first IPV mini also is suffering from "paint failure"... I've thought about wrapping it, but the wraps don't cover the strips of metal on each side of the buttons (where most of the damage is). Sanding it down to remove all the defective paint may be an excellent idea... then I can wrap it, or even apply a custom paint-job of my own (after applying a good primer). Sadlly, all of them are doing it, even the silver one has dull spots where my thumb sits and my fingers wrap around it ... Their mods are fantastic, but the powder-coat/lacquer process sucks... Before I drop any cash on the Kanger sub-box kit, I think I'll wait and see how the finish holds up on it... Even my black Russian 91% (authentic) is starting to look like crap... I'm tempted to send it back to Kebo and have them replace it or exchange it for a polished one! I've only had it for 5-6 months!

I agree... Thanks Jason! Just what I needed was another mod/tank combo The color scheme is nice, and what would be cool would be to change the button color as well as the tank's o-rings to match... then you could truly customize it. I'm thinking Black/Yellow or Black/Lime for real eye-popping appeal

Same here... started on 18 (and a few 24's)... About 8-months later, my favorite juice was only available in 12mg, so I tried it and didn't die, go into a withdrawal-coma, or even notice... After that, I decided to try things in 3mg (and even cut them lower for RDA use), and happily vape 3-6mg daily now. I can also go nearly a full day without touching a vape, but I think I crave the flavor more than the Nicotine!! However, on a stressful day at work (or home), a few hits of 18mg do take the edge off

Yep, the air-flow-control base will prevent 99% of any drips (not counting flooding) making it to the battery, and even an un-sealed adapter will prevent most from getting to the battery. The ones I bought from Fasttech are un-sealed, and even when my KPT3-minis drip a drop or two of liquid, they don't pass through the adapter onto my battery unless they sit there for days and days and days.... I tend to pull the adapter each time I fill the tank (to check for drips), and when I find them, they are just sitting on the top of the connector, and easily wipe away with a tissue or q-tip.

I've seen eGo-to-510 and 510-510 connectors... as a matter of fact, I bought a 5-pack of 510-510 connectors (which also are 510-eGo) from Fasttech a few months ago.... five for $3!

Yes, they do, but in order to fully charge a 4600mAh battery, you'd have to charge it from a 9000mAh battery (basically the size battery found in emergency lighting in your workplace's hallways and bathrooms). Using those small square or round portable batteries does not fully discharge their "charge" into the recipient battery, either... they reach a saturation point, where both batteries are near equal, but the donor battery will never fully exhaust it's charge into the dead one. So, to fully charge any dead battery, you'd need to supply it with nearly 2x what it needs. Honestly, the best thing to do is charge it the correct way via wall-charger or mobile-charger (car)... and leave the gimmicky portable charging batteries for what they do best... give you a quick boost of power to a dying cell-phone so you can make a call or two. I've had to use my MVP 2.0 as a cell-phone booster once, and the phone drained the MVP, but only provided enough charge so I could make maybe 15-min of calls and send/receive a few texts. BTW, the cell-phone battery is basically the same mAh as my MVP, which proves the point I was trying to make about portable power-packs.

Thanks Tug... I just did Along with letters to my Senators, Representative, and the White House!

Amps are drawn by the device, not pushed by the source... The iStick requires a charger that can provide at least 1A (1000mA) to properly charge. It will charge with a smaller Amp rating charger, but it will go slow, and it may cause a cheap charger to burn out (too much demand of it). Charging by your car-charger will not damage the iStick, nor will it harm your car, but if the charger cannot deliver at least 1A of power, it may become damaged.

I love my RTAs, but of I had to use a cartridge coil tank for the rest of my life... Give me an AeroTank (or KPT2 with air-flow control base), and 1.5 Ohm coils.

I've heard of a lot of people using Orbtronic batteries, but I've not personally used one or even seen one in nearly a year. I "think" the Vamo kits use to come with Orbtronic batteries, but I may be incorrect on that?

It's not uncommon for juice to leak through the coil and get into the "well" like that... it is normal (to a point). That is also the good thing about the airflow bases, they keep the juice from getting a direct-path to your battery Just swab it out with a paper towel or tissue, screw the coil back down snug and try again. If it floods or leaks constantly, the coil is bad (not likely the gasket). Sometimes if you don't snug down the coil, you get leakage like that too.

Comp brings up a good point... nothing says you have to go 50W+ on a sub-tank set-up... but even at lower Wattages, my Arctic tank (25W @ 0.2 Ohms) was too hot for my preferences. I switched to 1.2 Ohm coils (and 15-25W), and it performs like an Aerotank on steroids (airflow-wise). But for the cost of coils, I'll happily stick with my Kanger BCC and BDC tanks and coils