Earthling789

Jason, that AsMODus still hasn't shipped? Is it being hand-forged by Dwarves from Middle-Earth?? Andy, as you can see, the choices are endless... but the key is to find what works best for you! Jason brought up an excellent tank in the Kanger SubTank Mini... very versatile for the beginner or advanced user. It has multiple coil-heads available (different Ohms), and comes with a rebuildable deck, for when you're ready to build your own coils (or you don't have to use it at all)... I do love my IPV mini V2... top-shelf function, 70W power, excellent battery-life, but I only wish their painting process was better as the finish wears off way too quickly

​ Tam makes a great point... a good, simple tank, paired-up with the right juice and a functional battery can provide all the vapor/flavor you need to satisfy. I have to crack the window on my car (like I did when I smoked) so I can see to drive... and that's using a Kanger AeroTank, 1.5 Ohm coil, 50/50 ratio 10mg juice and powering it with a Cloupor Mini @ only 11W

I do second the VV/VW box mods... the iStick 50W is great if you like self-contained batteries, and I cannot recommend the IPV-mini (V1 or V2) and the Cloupor mini strongly enough... I have more of them than I can use, and I still think I could use another As for mechs... I have four, but regularly (and I use that term loosely) use only one... my Copper Penny (HCigar clone)... recessed switch, heavy, all copper body and contacts, fully adjustable, and the voltage-drop is negligible... and for $30-35, you can't beat it. They also make magnet upgrades for it, which make it a fantastic mech for the money. My next favorite is my brass Windrose (also an HCigar clone)... smooth as silk and always fires perfectly... looks nice too My only complaint on it is the firing lock... too dang small to really get my big fingers around, or I unscrew the base as I spin it...

Congrats on kicking the analogs (or at least making the effort if you haven't completely quit yet)... Getting the proper rig, flavors, and nicotine levels are the key, and I must say (and others will agree), vaping is the most effective way I've found to quit analogs for good! Ohm's Law is fairly easy... really... lower Resistance draws more Amps, requires higher Voltages, and more Power (Wattage). Low Ohms are quick to heat, get really hot, and quick to cool... higher Oms heat slower, are cooler overall, and are slow to cool down. Here's a good website to show the ratio and relationship of Resistance (Ohms) and how they relate to Voltage and Power (Wattage). Here is a link to a well written piece by one of our members, Compenstine... to outline spotting fake Sony batteries.

Glad I could help Sony is a good battery, but there are a lot of fakes and re-wraps out there... so be cautious of where you buy from (avoid eBay). There are several threads on here that will document how to spot fake Sony VTC, so you may want to look at those? As for RBA... drippers (RDA) or rebuildable tanks (RTA)... I would avoid those until you get a feel for your vaping... and a good handle on Ohm's Law. Building can be fun, but it can also be expensive (to start out) as well as dangerous for someone that has not done their research or homework. Feel free to ask questions around here... a lot of good folks on this forum that are happy to help out, give advice, encouragement, etc. Are you vaping for the hobby, or to quit smoking?

Welcome to VT, Andy! First of all... let me dispel myth... you don't need a 0.00001 Ohm coil, powered by a nuclear reactor to get a "flavorful vape"... I also seriously doubt you'd be able to push the 0.5 ohm build on that Tesla beyond 50W without beginning to cook most juices.... upwards of 120W, and you're making charcoal, IMO. Flavor is about finding the Wattage and coil resistance (Ohms) that best match the juice.... too little power (Wattage) and you get a weak, cool vape... too much, and you get a hot, burnt flavor. For my 0.5 Ohm builds, I run them at 30-45W, depending on the juice, and one of my juices tastes like burnt socks if I push it above 25W, even at 0.5 Ohms!! Bottom line, what works for me and my juices may not work for yours, so you'll have to play with it... start low (like 20W), and vape... bump up the Wattage a half Watt or whole Watt at a time, vape, repeat... once you get a SLIGHTLY burnt flavor... back off a Watt or two.. that is the sweet-spot for THAT juice and coil combo. Also... if you are going to run a box-mod of that power, and sub-ohm... and you're admittedly new to vaping... do yourself and all of us a favor... USE THE BEST BATTERY YOU CAN BUY (Purple Efest, Samsung 25r, LG HE2, or Sony VTC4), and buy yourself a coil meter (for checking the resistance of your coil builds, even if they are pre-built)! SAFETY FIRST! We want you to enjoy vaping, not be a statistic for the media to exploit when you blow something up (like yourself)...

Like Comp, I have different tanks with different builds, which are specific to a flavor and nicotine level. I mostly use VW devices like my IPV mini or cloupor mini, so adjusting Wattage to suit the tank/build/flavor is quick and easy As Bebob said, mixing the two together to hit 4.0, 4.5, or 5.0mg is easy... just adjust the ratio's... 50:50 is easy... equal parts of each gives you 4.5mg mix. Different tanks, builds, or even adding a bit of VG to the 6mg will reduce the TH. Cutting back the wattage is probably a necessity too... You just have to play with your mixtures and settings to figure out what works best for the juice you're using. Even flavor will make a difference... 6mg of Flavor-A may hit hard on TH @ 10W, but 6mg of Flavor-B (same tank/coil) may be smooth as silk @ 20W...

I use a variety, but here are my limits: For 0.5 - 1.0 Ohm, I can use 50/50 juices, but stick with 6mg max... as I get closer to 0.5 Ohm, I try to move to higher VG to avoid the harsh TH, and even go to 0 or 3mg if I plan to chain vape. I don't much like lower than 0.5 Ohm, but when I do venture below that, I use minimum or 80% VG, and won't use anything but 0mg or 3mg max. Now, for flavor... I stick with my RTA's, single coil, 1.2 - 1.4 Ohm, and 50/50 or 30/70 PG/VG juices... anything up to 12mg (which is my max Nicotine levels under "normal circumstances" lately). I won't fog up a room that way, but I do get a VERY satisfying cloud of flavor

European Union directives mean nothing to the USA... BUT, our politicians worship the "wonderful governance" of the European leaders, so I'm sure they'll buy into it and try to pass that crap here. All of the regulations proposed are to limit choice and to hinder small businesses. All of this is driven by Big Tobacco to limit choices to what they want you to have, so vaping will lose it's appeal and variety. It's easy to sell Renault cars when they are the only ones available... and I chose that brand for a reason... because they are so poorly made, they don't pass US safety inspections and aren't allowed to be sold or imported in the US since the mid-80's? Yep, those wonderful French can sure make a car... just like they can make decisions on their elected officials

​ To my knowledge, it would only apply to juice, as they want to make juice listed as a "tobacco product"... but give them time and they'll "try" to tax the hardware, too.

The proposed taxes are per ML of "ready to vape" product in most instances. "Wholesale" tax are levied on the seller and/or manufacturer (for ingredients), which as we all know means those extra costs get passed onto the consumer as a "hidden tax"... or "taxation without representation". The bottom line is this... States have spent money they hadn't yet received from the Cigarette Settlements (big-tobacco pay-offs), and with declining cigarette sales, states are operating in the red. They see a win-win if they can get e-liquids classified as "tobacco products", because Big-Tobacco will be forced to pay-up even more on the settlement checks, FDA will get full regulatory control, and the states (and Fed) will get to tax the crap out them. Attempting to tax per ML is just a preemptive strike to generate revenue to cover their overspending (before it becomes apparent to the citizens). The 15% tax per ML in Kentucky was defeated several times, but Dems have attempted to ear-mark this same tax bill onto dozens of other bills, including education reform, transportation, agriculture bills, and a bill that did nothing else but re-define state-level zoning. Had it passed, it would have meant an extra 8-15 cents per ML... or $0.80 to $1.50 added to a 10ml bottle of juice... $2.40 to $4.50 added per 30ml bottle! Basic math won't lie, and an additional $2.40 to my $11 bottle of house-brand is a 25% increase, and the same 25% would apply to the 30ml bottle of a premium juice like Mad Alchemist or Suicide Bunny, pushing them upwards of $1/ML!

​Well, it is if you're a tree or blade of grass Without CO2, all plants would die, and then... who would make the Oxygen? Hmmm?

I guess it's much like I smoked, lol... In the car, it's in my hand when I'm not shifting gears or doing something that requires both hands. At home, it's always nearby, but I take a few hits and set down until I "need" another hit (or three). At work, I'll chain vape on my breaks since the building is smoke/vape-free... and someday soon, I'm sure it will be breathing-free (since every exhale might spread second-hand-germs )

Starter kits are just that... something to get you started (two batteries, two tanks/clearomizers, charger, etc.). Some people are happy using a starter-kit or some variation of a starter kit forever, but many of us evolve to better equipment and relegate the starter kits to back-ups or pay them forward to new vapers. Personally, I've only bought ONE starter kit for myself, and passed that along to a new vaper within a few months. I've also purchased components (and received several freebies from contests or friends) to make eight additional starter kits to give away to new vapers over the past year.

Welcome to VT! The error you're seeing means the device cannot detect the tank (atomizer). First thing to do is change the coil, but if that does not work, the center-pin on the MVP may have been pushed down too far to make contact with the tank. Use a tiny screwdriver and use it to gently pry the pin upwards a very tiny bit. One of these two will generally fix the issue.

​It's called "Kentucky in July and August" Humidity here is like floating rain... it never really hits the ground, but you still get soaked....

Spot thundershowers every afternoon, and rain every night for the past week. Today is supposed to be a great day (85 and sunny), so maybe I can cut the jungle called a back yard This weekend was supposed to be pleasant, but now the forecast shows more rain and t-storms for at least the next 5-6 days

I've had some coils taste and still "look" good after 2-weeks... some go south after 2-days... so, as Tam said, YMMV I know mine does from coil to coil...

Yep, upgraded my Copper Penny to magnets... easy to do... unscrew the firing button to disassemble, remove the spring, replace with magnets (same pole facing each other), and re-assemble the firing button. It's a 2-minute job

Hehe... I see what you did there

I bought my son a small one... Syma? so he could play with it... and I could too... It has a camera and about 15-min flight time with decent range. He really wants one of the bigger, pro models, but like gag8tor, I'm not ready to drop a minimum of $500 on a toy, especially when I've got other projects that require cash (like the bathroom I was supposed to start remodeling 3-months ago )

I like the IPV4... I've held one in the B&M, and it wasn't a brick, but was darn close I would love to have one, but I think I'll either wait for them to really drop in price or my preferred choice... hold out for the IPV D2 I agree the mirrored OLED screens are dim in the sunlight, but I've yet to find one that isn't difficult to read in bright light. The black ones are much easier to read, and I think that is why I like my Cloupor minis and IPV-mini V2 so well... I can read them in places other than dark room

PG gives throat hit, as well as Nicotine (to a lesser degree). VG is the "cloud maker". PG also is the flavor carrier... which is why 50/50 juices are so popular for flavor/cloud mix.

You're getting the general consensus, and everything above is good advice... "off" tastes and poor draw (tight draw) are good indicators it's time to dump a coil. I've read extensively and can't find anything more than conjecture about continued use of a gunked-up coil or one that has gone beyond it's usefulness, but as said above... why risk it? Bad is bad, right?

That's perfectly normal... Fully charged for a 3.7V battery is between 4.1V and 4.2V. It is time to replace them when they can't hold their charge while sitting on shelf for a few hours (or a day).