Earthling789

Wow, makes me kinda glad I PIF'd mine... I sent a text this morning to make the new owner aware of the possible issue, but they said it is working fine thus-far, but appreciated the heads-up.

Glad you weren't hurt, or any damage to the house/possessions! I've not heard of anyone I've know to have a problem with the iStick 50's... 20's, yes (mostly jumping power, overpower)... but not the 50W.

Hey, if I'm not being difficult, I'm not being me Yeah, I realized today I just need to CTRL-C my post before hitting submit

Yep, I agree... people expect Porsche/Ferrari performance on a bicycle budget I read some of the reviews too... and a little rattle is not a bad thing on a $35 device, as long as it works, and doesn't fall apart, I'd be fine with it. I think I read the same review on the D2... I mean, really? Trashing it because it didn't have micro-USB charging port? Seriously, buy a charger and swap batteries!! I'm still leaning towards buying one, but your review of the iStick40TC has me thinking I should buy one of those first as I test the waters of TC... although I probably shouldn't bother... I'm quite happy with my Russians, subtanks, and Aerotanks on my Cloupor-minis and IPV-minis...

I just saw VapeNW.com has them for pre-order @ $35

Yeah, I don't knock the Nautilus too much, because some people love them... but I do like to point out they are twice the price as a KPT2 I didn't check VapeNW... oops... their price is much better than MyVaporStore, and the blue ones are really a great color! I was skimming MVS a few minutes ago, and also remembered another good recommendation... the Innokin MVP 2.0, 20W, or 3.0. They "do" come with a tank, although it is not the greatest tank... it's the battery that is awesome! But, for the better bang for your buck... the iStick 50W is hard to beat...

First time... meh, it might have been a glitch, but it just happened again... 4th or 5th time this week. When I compose my post, and hit submit, it seems to be doing what it always does... saving... posting... but the post never makes it to the board? It saves to "the void"? It wouldn't be a big deal if I were posting something 10-words-or-less... but a couple of the ones that disappeared were quite lengthy, but size has nothing to do with it, as one of the "vanishing posts" was only a short sentence... Posting from latest version of FF, using PC (not mobile).

Buying locally from a B&M (brick and mortar shop), and you'll pay more... I've seen the iStick 50 in my local shops for as high as $75! My Vapor store has them for $35, and they have quite a large selection of batteries, tanks, coils, etc. Check them out before you buy locally. http://www.myvaporstore.com/Eleaf-iSmoka-iStick-50W-4400mAh-Simple-Pack-p/elis-is50wbk.htm You won't need to mess with cotton or coils if you go the route of iStick and Kanger tank. The Nautilus is a decent tank, but coils and the tanks themselves are twice the price of a Kanger ProTank2! So, you can buy more (and have dependable equipment) if you go the ProTank2 or Aerotank route.

Nothing wrong with the subbox mini kit... but for the same money, you could pick up an iStick 50W and a couple of quality tanks like the Kanger ProTank2, Kanger AeroTank V2, or Aspire Davide tanks. The subtank will work with "normal" Ohm cols... 1.5 Ohm, and will allow you to build your own on the RBA deck, but these are for more advanced users, not really the best option, IMO, for someone starting out. An iStick 50W will give you HUGE battery life, and allow you to grow into higher Wattage tanks and sub-ohming (which is NOT for everyone, nor is it an expected progression for vapers). The Kanger and Davide tanks will allow you to use factory coils from 0.8-2.5 Ohm (wide range), and they produce great flavor (my preference is the Aerotanks using 1.5 or 1.8 Ohm coils). The goal is to stay away from smoking, and an iStick paired with a good, rugged tank will keep you going for years. No need to jump into sub-ohming, rechargeable batteries, rebuildables, etc. just because the kit is "affordable", and a "kit" If purchased online, $75 will get you an iStick, two tanks, and a box of coils... and probably a few bucks left over for the important part... JUICE!

Welcome to VT Josh! What device (tank/battery) were you using before? This is an odd issue, but I think it may be due to the fact you're using a sub-ohm tank, possibly at high Watts, and the higher PG ratio isn't helping either. Try dialing your Wattage down, using a bit less airflow, and possibly moving from a sub-ohm coil to a 1.2 Ohm or similar? Changing brands of juice, flavors, and/or nicotine levels to 3mg or less may also help if you are going to use the sub-ohm coil. 6mg at sub-ohm levels is equivalent to 18mg (or more) at "normal" coil resistances ... 1.8 -2.2 Ohm because the body absorbs the Nicotine MUCH faster and at a higher-rate when it is as heat increases... and sub-ohming really heats the juice!

It means your camera works ?

Places may stop selling the KPT minis and original KPT due to lack of sales on the basic-style stuff, but I don't think they'll stop producing the single-coil BCC heads anytime soon. There is just too big of a market out there with the EVOD/EVOD2 starter kits, and the existing KPT, KPT2, KPT2-mini, and all the other tanks that use those coils (like the Davide). I've tried to use the single coils in my KPT3-minis and Aerotanks, but I've had mixed results with leaking/flooding/gurgling, so now, I just use the BDC heads and buy them in bulk (last box was $42/50-count, which is $0.84 cents each?). When I do want a single-coil in my Aerotanks, I just rebuild a dual-head and only put a single-coil into it.. it works just fine that way. I have maybe 20 single coils left, and only two KPT2's, so I'll be good for another year... then I'll probably PIF those and buy a couple more Aerotanks for my traveling companions?

From my comparison, the KPT2 and KPT3 are identical in every way, with exception of the center-tube length to accommodate the shorter BCC coils on the KPT2, and BDC coils on the KPT3.

BCC is Bottom Coil Clearomizer (single coil)... at least that is what Kanger calls their BCC. I know the frustration with the new Davide tanks. I bought a pair of the Davide minis in gold, and ended up giving them to a co-worker that was drooling all over my desk for about a week They took the Kanger single-coils (BCC) or the Aspire Nautilus coils (if you removed the little ring). I loved those tanks, but my co-worker loved them more, hahaha. Check with Tam on the new Davide tanks. IIRC, she just bought several of them, and they weren't very expensive... maybe $12? I sent her the link to the online store that had them at that price... it's where I bought the minis, but for the life of me right now, I can't remember which vendor it was... sorry.

BDC = Bottom Dual Coil... If that helps :)

I'm with you Bebop... the wife wanted to open a coffee shop locally about 20 years ago, and I laughed at the idea! I mean, who would pay $4 for a cup of coffee they can get from the gas-station for 50-cents or the local restaurants for pennies (free if you are buying breakfast from a couple of them)?? Pay for water? Really?!? Now, I'm kicking myself in the a$$ for not jumping all over it! Coffee, wifi, comfortable tables/chairs/sofas, real-soda-fountain mixes, light sandwiches and pastries... I could have retired years ago

Watts (or Volts) you use are dependent on the device and juice, along with the resistance of the coil (and type of coil) you're using. The best way to find what works for you and your juice/device combo is to start low... say 7-8W? Vape, and determine if that is "good"... enough vapor, flavor, etc. If not, bump up the Wattage by 0.5W if the vapor/flavor is weak, or 0.1W if you can tell it is getting close... repeat as necessary until you get a slight burnt flavor (burnt can be perceived as hot/harsh flavor). Once you get that burnt flavor, back the Wattage down 0.1-0.5W, and that is the best (sweet-spot) Wattage for that device/juice combo. Each time you use a different tank, coil, or juice, you have to repeat this process, as these combos will have a different sweet-spot (higher or lower Wattages). One thing also to note... a brand new coil will require a little lower Wattage until it "breaks-in", so if you're using 10W on the current coil, and change it out for a new one of the same resistance, back the Wattage down a Watt or two for the first couple dozen hits... then you can slowly turn it back up until you reach 10W again... or you may like this coil at 10.5W?

Bebop is spot-on! Caffeine is absorbed through the stomach lining and intestines at the highest rate... 99% within 20-40-minutes. Through the mouth/lungs (caffeine gums/candy/inhalers), 40-70% (but you may feel it sooner, and it falls-off quicker), so even if it were to deliver 2mg of caffeine with every "hit" of ecig... it would take you 300 hits (or about a day's worth of vaping) to get a cup of coffee's worth of caffeine. So, therefore, it is caffeinated e-liquids are HYPE, and not worth the trouble. As Tam said.... vaporizing caffeine has not been studied at all, and at least we do have some evidence of vaporizing PG/VG/Nicotine, and it is relatively safe (but no long-term studies have obviously been done). Soooo... caffeinated e-liquids... novelty/fad... and unknown as to what it does to your body. Stick to drinking your caffeine via coffee/tea! It's the only proven delivery method

I missed the preview, but will try to catch it on youtube... I've been a Walking Dead fan since the first episode, and haven't missed one yet (even binged-watched them in order before every new season, so I don't miss anything)

Info direct from www.gov.uk (as posted in the link above) CE marking applies to products, ranging from electrical equipment to toys and from civil explosives to medical devices. The full list of these product categories is below: active implantable medical devicesappliances burning gaseous fuelscableway installations designed to carry personseco-design of energy related productselectromagnetic compatibilityequipment and protective systems intended for use in potentially explosive atmospheresexplosives for civil useshot-water boilershousehold refrigerators and freezersin vitro diagnostic medical devicesliftslow voltagemachinerymeasuring instrumentsmedical devicesnoise emission in the environmentnon-automatic weighing instrumentspersonal protective equipmentpressure equipmentpyrotechnicsradio and telecommunications terminal equipmentrecreational craftsafety of toyssimple pressure vessels I can give you the info, but I can't make you understand it... E-liquid does NOT fall within any of these categories. While manufacturers may put the stamp on the bottle or package, it is NOT REQUIRED within the EU to have the CE stamp on e-liquids. There is also no regulatory authority of the CE... it is a product safety mark applied by manufacturers to show they have tested the product for consumer safety - meaning it meets the guidelines of health/safety/environment within the EU for sales of the product within the EU (which also means nothing to the rest of the world, especially the US as we typically have higher testing standards, from Underwriter's Laboratory, for products in the list above). You can put the CE mark on a bottle of water or bottle of Whiskey but it does not mean the government has approved it, regulated it, tested it, or has anything to do with it. It means nothing unless the product falls within one of the categories above. And, furthermore, just because the manufacturer places the mark on their product, it does not mean it is guaranteed "safe", only that the manufacturer implies it meets the guidelines for one of the categories. If a hot-water boiler explodes (for example), then the consumer will have a method of recourse against the manufacturer because the manufacturer certified it as "safe", by applying the CE stamp. The info I provided is not wrong, only your interpretation of it. CE stamps may exist on some e-liquids, or even a bottle of mustard, in the UK (I won't deny some manufactures may put the stamp on the bottles), but CE stamps are not required for chemicals, food-products, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics, and mean absolutely NOTHING as to their safety, purity, contents, inspection, regulation, etc. You know... perhaps the stamps on the bottle and packaging only mean the bottle/package meets the EU environmental standards for recyclable material?? Who knows? But the liquid contained inside the bottle does not require CE certification to be sold within the EU!

Yes, Cany, you can put it back on the grill or smoker to finish cooking it, but it will take a few hours to get the internal temp back up to where it was when you pulled it out last night. It may also crust up more (thicker) because the exterior will over-cook, but it will not hurt it

OMG, Cesar... you really need to read-up on European regulations for yourself, and not rely on the misinformation of others for your facts. The CE mark only means that a product meets the health/safety/environmental requirements of the EU, and allows for free-trade-movement, of products bearing the mark, within the EU. The CE marking is not required for items, for example: chemicalspharmaceuticalscosmetics and foodstuffsE-liquids in the EU (including the UK) are NOT regulated or controlled by the "CE", as "CE" is only a mark to ensure the manufacturer has checked that these products meet EU safety, health or environmental requirements. E-liquids are a "foodstuff" and/or pharmaceutical by definition... at least until Big Tobacco, public health entities, and Big Government get them classified as Tobacco Products... but that will be strictly for regulation and taxation... it will have nothing to do with "safety", and will still not require a CE stamp on the products. Last time I checked, cigarettes sold in the UK do NOT have a CE mark anywhere on the package! The CE mark in Europe is like the UL (Underwriter's Laboratory) mark in the USA. It simply means a product been tested to meet certain safety measures so you'll know it is safe to use, and is not likely to kill you, electrocute you, or burn your house down if you plug it in. They are a product testing certification mark, and have NO REGULATORY CAPACITY. I know this is the Internet, and people are free to post any opinion as fact, but at least on this forum, we try to only post FACTS that can be checked/verified when it comes to regulations regarding e-liquids and vaping hardware, because misinformation is a dangerous thing, and in my opinion, is one of the leading causes of lower IQ's across the globe. Just because you read somewhere (or someone told you) that some authority said 2 + 2 no longer equals 4, or that all airplanes flying across the Atlantic must now be painted pink for better visibility... doesn't make it TRUE. If you can't back up your statement with documentation, names, etc., perhaps you should refrain from posting? Posting your opinion regarding a product or its use is one thing, but when it comes to regulations regarding product safety/sales/manufacture, you better have something to back up your statements! We will call you out on it... haven't you already figured this out?? </rant>

It's supposed to get crispy and burnt... that's the bark

So, is dinner ready yet? I've been waiting all day to taste that

HUH?? PG is the primary component of asthma inhalers, and has been for decades. Granted, an asthma inhaler is atomizing the PG, not vaporizing it, but there is no difference in the "breathing machines" used in hospitals than your basic APV... both vaporize the PG. A lot of fear-mongering goes on about vaping PG or VG... I even read a report recently talking about the harmful effects of vaporizing the water in e-liquids... Yeah, right... it's called STEAM, and is perfectly safe... unless you inhale gallons of it and DROWN! Many companies offer 50/50 juices because that is what the customers prefer... it is the best mix of flavor, TH, and vapor... it has nothing to do with "safety"!!