Earthling789

Tonight, I got good news, bad news... The good... VaporDNA sells authentic Russian 91% acrylic center tank sections for $5.99 each! (they also have other authentic parts) The bad... They're out of stock

Yes, Tam... I think you can

Welcome JC! You're comparison is apples-to-Buicks... but I'll try to give you some examples of why.... The prebuilt coils have been known to have "packed" cotton, which may be too tight, which slows wicking-action. Many people have said they needed to loosen the cotton a bit to improve wicking in the pre-built coils. Use a toothpick or push-pin to loosen it up a bit if that is the case. When you are building on the RBA deck, you are most likely "fanning" the cotton, which improves wicking greatly over the pre-builts. As for power, 0.5 Ohms @ 40W is 4.5V and nearly 9A of power. The 0.7 Ohm coil @ 40W is 5.3V, but only 7.6A of power! Is 40W too much for either of these coils? That depends on the juice and your preferences, but you can see the Amp-draw and Voltage differences. Personally, I have a 0.8 Ohm coil I use often, but rarely push it beyond 25W of power... then again, I don't like my vape HOT, nor does my juice

Received Tam's nemesis... the Triton.. in the mail earlier this week, but my son picked up the mail and left it in his car for a few days, lol.. Gonna go through it tomorrow and find out what makes this thing tick, and maybe get it working? Thanks Tam... and I promise, I'll not break out the hammer on it for at least a few hours

Nice Tam, I see you took my advice for having a spare in the car, office, and two in the kitchen drawer... hahahahaha

Got it The last one I bought didn't fit... I think it was for the Kayfun because it was too tall. I'm going to have to dig deeper to find the correct ones for Russians. Oh, I wish they made Pyrex replacements, but i think the threaded sections would be way too fragile? I don't mind using the steel section, but it's soooo hard to tell if you've over-filled without using a syringe and measuring, and the only way to know you're running dry is to get a dry-hit

Tonight, I learned that you shouldn't let noobs play with your authentic Russian 91%... They thought the upper metal part was loose, because it was twisting, so they tightened it up... to the point of separating the threading right off the acrylic tank section Now, I have TWO Russians that need clear center sections...

Last time I used the foam on my VG covered windshield, it looked great for about an hour, then that thin, foggy sheen was right back (in spots)... it was like I got most of it, but it was still streaked and nasty... I hope you had better luck!

I'd also include the VTC5 in the list of Sony batteries... they were never sold to the general public, only to industry, so they are horribly cloned, re-wrapped, and mis-labeled batteries. You "might" get a real Sony VTC5, but the chances are very slim, so avoid them.

Well said Jason! I agree with everything 100%

I noticed this with my Nano more than the Mini... but yes, some 510's just won't fit either.

Yep, the foamy stuff don't really work that well on VG... it just smears it. Plain old Windex (or the generic blue stuff) works just fine. If you have tinted windows, you have to use the non-ammonia cleaner, and lots of it. Plain paper-towels or news-paper works better than a micro-fiber towel... Micro-fiber is great for putting on the final polishing, though.

I had to clean the interior windows of my car the other night, and it took several tries to get all the VG residue off! I guess we need to wash windows a little more often? LOL

Amen, Tam! Backup, backups, and more backups! You'll be glad you have them one day... Extra tanks, spare coils, backup batteries... extra juice... extra everything!

The simple answer, yes, you can... But... if the flavors are similar or complimentary, you can just dump the tank and refill... vape... and you'll get a mix of the flavors for the first few hits before the new flavor takes over. If they are drastically different, you can rinse the coil (and must clean the tank too), or soak the coil overnight in Vodka, then air-dry it for a few hours. It will remove the old flavor and freshen the coil.

+1 on the DIY! Big name brands are probably more consistent and use better quality ingredients, but without any accuracy on the label, who can tell? Then again, just because your bag of chips or bottle of cola lists ingredients, does that mean it's accurate?? Nobody tests these things for accuracy on every batch, so we only have to trust the manufacturer, right?

Like Bebop, I classify "pen-style" as the standard eGo style, slim sharpie-marker-size battery. I would call the Ego-One a tub-style, like a mechanical-mod because it is nearly an inch in diameter. Variable Wattage has it's place, in that you set the Wattage you want, and regardless of coil resistance you pop onto the top of it, it will always be the same Wattage (box sets the Voltage according to resistance of the coil). If you do the same thing to Variable Voltage, the Watts are set by the device, and Wattage will change, based on the coil's resistance. I prefer VW for consistency, regardless of tank/coil... but both have their place/use.

Not enough info to go on Are you using Kanthal, Nichrome, Titanium, flat, twisted, ... what? If using Kanthal... 8 wraps (full wraps) around a 2mm mandrel will be ~1.2 Ohms (which should never be fired at 40W. Even worse would be if the coil were wrapped on a 3mm mandrel (~1.7 Ohms). Wrapped on a 1mm mandrel would be 0.7-0.8 Ohms... still nothing I'd push 40W into!! Power is not everything.... and you must learn proper coil wrapping as well as Ohm's Law if you're going to build. But before you do anything... BUY A METER!

Did someone say "help me spend money"? Seriously, for what you spend on the Vapor4Life kits... you could buy 2 or 3 Kanger EVOD kits, or make the step up to variable-voltage / variable-wattage devices like the iStick 50W, iStick 30W, Sub-box-mini (Kanger), Innokin MVP-series units, or any of the replaceable battery units from Cloupor, Pioneer4You, Sigelei, SMY, Smok, (and many more). Upgrading to a replaceable-coil-head tank like the Aspire Nautilus (and mini), Kanger ProTank2, ProTank3, AeroTank (and their minis), or a more advanced sub-ohm capable tank like the Kanger Sub-tank-mini or Aspire Atlantis... or any of a couple dozen others... will GREATLY improve your vaping experience. A simple iStick 30W and Kanger ProTank2 combo will only set you back ~ $40 (retail), which is 2/3 what you're paying for a Vape4Life single unit! And, the difference in vape is like comparing a bicycle to a motorcycle!

Just eat lots and lots of eggplant, Tam... and enjoy the fact it has Nicotine in it

Yep, with insurance companies passing along the expenses of smoking-related health issues... they now test for nicotine before you can get better rates on your insurance Smokers pay more... for everything...

Haha... okay, let me clarify... my conversion was off... and I apologize for my error. 1mg = 1,000,000ng (not 1,000) Yes, Eggplant is the highest Nicotine content of fruits/veggies... at 80-200 ng per whole plant (average of 100-200g size - about 1ng per gram), and I this would be equal to receiving "passive" or "second-hand" nicotine levels from standing next to a smoker. To get the equivalent of a half a cigarette, yes, you would need to consume at between 0.025mg and 0.05mg of Nicotine, which would be 25,000 - 50,000g of Eggplant (55 - 110-lb). [Explained further below:] But, the average PACK of cigarettes contains between 8 and 20mg of Nicotine, so that means between 400,000 and 1,000,000 ng of Nicotine per cigarette. Further reduction must be considered if the cigarette is filtered, as this can cut the Nicotine levels by half (or more), and consider some ultra-lights contain even less nicotine! Nicotine levels vary from brand to brand, flavor to flavor, and country of origin, too.... SO, it's not out of the realm of possibilities to consume enough Nicotine in fruits and veggies to bring Nicotine levels in your body to the level of a smoker... which is only 500ng (AMA, FDA, and Insurance-institute levels to classify you as a smoker), up to highs in the 5,000ng range. Yeah, okay, splitting hairs, I know... but if you follow the data below... you'll see that you actually get less Nicotine than you think (per filtered cigarette)... about 1000x less... or 0.1mg (100,000ng) of Nicotine per cigarette of the highest levels. How Many Milligrams of Nicotine in a Cigarette?It should be noted that a regular pack of cigarettes contains 8 to 20 milligrams of nicotine and from that only 1 mg is absorbed when it is smoked. Now on a smaller scale, this means from every cigarette stub containing approximately 1.2 mg of nicotine, the smoker will absorb around 0.1 mg of nicotine from it. Marlboro on the other hand, has lesser nicotine content at 0.8 mg.

Sounds normal... that's the sound of juice being vaporized... you can hear it more as the air-hole sizes increase, and sometimes the sound can really get loud because the air-hole is the perfect resonator (amplifies the sound's resonance frequency).

If you're really worried about it, Wal-mart, Target, Walgreens, Rite-Aid, and other pharmacies in your local area sell test-kits, much like pregnancy tests (which you pee on, or dip a test stick into a cup of pee), which will test the levels of Nicotine/Cotinine found in your urine. Some simple kits only show "positive" if you are above a specific level, usually 200 ng, but test kits vary on level they test for, and their accuracy. The TobacAlert kit tests by "range", from 0 ng up to 1000+ ng of Nicotine. Considering a whole tomato can have 50-100 ng of Nicotine and a whole eggplant can have between 80-200 ng of Nicotine, the level pre-employment tests or school tests will look for are generally 200 ng or lower in your system to determine you as a non-user or non-exposure, but again, that will depend on the business/school requirements and testing facility. Someone exposed to second-hand smokers all day long can have levels as high as 500 ng or higher in their system (and never actually smoked a day in their lives). Generally, to be considered a "user" of Nicotine (cigarettes, dip, chew, snuff, cigars, pipe), levels in your test would be 500+ ng-ml. Pee tests are generally accurate to determine if you regularly use or are exposed to Nicotine. Blood tests and hair tests are considered more accurate, but are also much more expensive. Nicotine is also fully removed from your system in 3-5 days if you are a "user" of Nicotine, but those exposed to passive Nicotine can sometimes take 15 days to fully eradicate Nicotine from their systems (seems odd, I know, but the data doesn't lie). Nicotine also has a half-life of 2-hours in the body, so a peak of 1000 ng right now, would show 500 ng in two hours, 250 ng in 4-hours, etc.. Cotinine has a half-life in the body of 15 hours, so if the test is looking for Cotinine, it will take 3-5 days for your levels to reach non-smoker ranges after your last analog or passive exposure. As you have been told above, 0% Nicotine e-liquids will not show up on any tests, but eating any fruit/vegetable or being around a smoker WILL show SOME Nicotine in your system... and this NORMAL! I regularly vape 6mg/ml juices, and I have taken a Nicotine pee-test... and the levels in my system were between 200-300 ng-ml, which could also be achieved by a non-vaper by eating a tomato and cucumber sandwich, baked-potato, and a big salad containing fresh spinach, romaine, broccoli, eggplant, and tomato! For reference, to be considered a non-smoker/user by my insurance company, levels of Nicotine and Cotinine must be below 500 ng-ml. My son's high school tests athletes for levels below 200 ng, but makes allowances to 500 ng if you have a smoker in the household.

There is not a product on the market, especially those made in China that doesn't have a fault, bad batch, or Quality-control issue... In the past 18 months, I've been through more than 3-dozen Kanger products, and dozens and dozens of their coils... only had two bad coils in the entire batch, and none were missing cotton or wicks. I agree with Comp, if you didn't prime it well, or pre-wet (as Cany suggested), it is possible that you toasted/burned-up the wick. Sounds like you had major issues inserting the coil properly anyway, which may have prevented it from wicking at all, thus evaporating the dry cotton when you fired it? You can hate Kanger all you want... you won't be the first, nor will you be the last, but I'd chalk-it-up as a learning experience and try to figure out why you had issue with coil fitment in the first place?