Jump to content

Earthling789

Forum Moderator
  • Posts

    3,403
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    191

Everything posted by Earthling789

  1. Prognosis? I actually like it! It is good for mouth-to-lung, as well as full-lung hits, nice full vapor (even with 1.8 Ohm coils @ 12W), and the flavor is respectable. I think the flavor of the Sub-Tank and the Russian's are better, but still the Triton has better flavor than the Nautilus or AeroTank (vapor production is far superior to all but the Sub-Tank; that is about a tie?). My only complaint is that it really eats through the juice, lol... I've not experienced any horrible popping or "grilling" of the juice that many have complained about, but I'm running a 30/70 PG/VG juice in it, and it's wicking and vaping like a champ! (so far)
  2. Okay, I thought I'd update everyone on Tam's Triton (which is now dead and buried, lol)... Tam sent me her Triton, along with several 1.8 ohm coils and the RBA deck, and I cleaned it and even soaked it in a liquid Nitrogen bath to see if that would kick something loose, and it did work for a couple of fill-ups, then it did the same thing it was doing to Tam... locked-up tight. I've tried every way I can think of to break this thing apart, but only ended up breaking it into pieces... and it wasn't pretty So, I bought a replacement tank-section from the local B&M (yeah, mark-up!), and so far, I've ran over 30ml of juice through it and it is still running strong (on the same coil)! I'm hoping the V2's will have this problem fixed, because if their tanks are hit-and-miss like this for finding a functional one... I can see why people are running in droves to the Sub-tank! Oh, and Sorry, Tam... I've yet to even build the RBA deck for this thing... let alone try it, but I will as soon as this coil dies (maybe)
  3. The Genitanks are chromed over a Copper base. Can you paint over Chrome? Sure... but it will not stay for long, and if you remove the Chrome, you're left with Copper, which will not hold any paint or coating any better. So, yes, you can... but the chances of success and satisfaction are slim-to-none
  4. Wow, I didn't realize you were sold a mechanical mod and dripper! B&M's really chap my behind when they sell an advanced set-up to a beginner! Comp is right, what you need to be successful is a simple, variable-voltage/variable-wattage battery like the iStick 30W or 50W, or an MVP 2.0, 20W, or 3.0.... something with a self-contained battery. For tanks, the Nautilus mini or a Kanger ProTank2 or Kanger AeroTank V2 would server you far better, IMO. I know many that use the Aspire K1 tanks, and love them for their simplicity and price (~ $10 retail). Tanks are a matter of personal preference, so you will probably have to try a couple, but ANY tank is better (for a beginner) than the dripper you're using right now 8mg level of nicotine on a dripper (depending on how low they built your coil's resistance) would be equivalent to 18-24mg of Nicotine in a standard tank/clearomizer/glassomizer. So, when you decide to move to a tank set-up, keep that in mind. A typical 2-pack-a-day smoker will need a minimum of 18mg of Nicotine to be successful at quitting. Go even higher if you need to... it will cut the urges to smoke. You can always taper off in time. Nicotine is not the enemy.... it's the 4000+ chemicals and carcinogens in cigarettes that are the problem! We've got a great support group here, and feel free to ask lots of questions... a fantastic group of people here, and we're willing to help out and offer opinions
  5. Rich is correct... MAX-VG means the only PG used is in the flavoring, but there is no way to know the % of flavoring. Generally, flavorings constitute between 15% and 30%, so the VG content could be 70% or as high as 85%... or even higher (as mentioned above) if the flavorings are VG-based (not very common though).
  6. The Nano is smaller than the mini, only 2.5ml capacity, and does not have the RBA deck included (only OCC coils). I have one, and think it works very well for a smaller tank, but I do like the mini a tiny bit better for the size, and the fact it also works with the standard Kanger BDC coils in a pinch.
  7. Been there, done that! And still had to buy the t-shirt, lol
  8. The D4 and i4 are the same, as far as their charging capability. The D4 has a pretty LCD readout that shows the status of the battery charging, Voltage, etc., but either does the job nicely. I have two of the i4's, and they just work... and for ~ $15/each, you can't beat the price
  9. You're welcome! No, you can charge in all 4 slots at the same time, but you cannot charge ONE 1.5V battery at a time, as it will damage the battery. You must do them in pairs (2 or 4) at a time when charging 1.5V batteries (AAA, AA, C, D).
  10. Yes... it will, but 1.5V batteries must be charged in pairs to prevent damage. Paired slots are 1&3, 2&4
  11. Another thing to think about is this... once you burn a coil, the burnt taste will be passed along to the remaining juice in the tank. Simply replacing the coil will just continue to wick burnt-flavored juice into the new coil. When you get a burnt taste, sometimes it is best to dump the tank, clean it, and start fresh with clean tank, fresh juice, and new coil.
  12. The "needs" have been easy lately... I've got plenty of juice (from DIY), coils, batteries, tanks, wire, cotton, etc. I've put myself under a strict budget for a few months, until I get my son a car, things done around the house, and pre-pay my vacation!!! Until then, unless I'm completely out of something, I'm not buying it... I promise
  13. I totally agree, a date code would be excellent on these things! Buying two side-by-side, and one may be a month old, one may be 2-yrs old... The LG's are only 2500mAh, which could be why they aren't lasting as long as you think they should, although I will say my LG's don't appear to last as long as my Samsung's do, from day-to-day rotations. They work very well, but if I start my day with a Samsung, I usually finish the day with it, swapping out sometime the next morning. If I start my day with an LG, I'll still get a full day out of it, but usually swap it out much earlier in the morning than I would have to do with the Samsung, and they're the same mAh rating, same continuous discharge Amp-rating. Perhaps it's because the LG's have a higher pulse-rating?? Or, perhaps we're both just imagining things? Jason, I've been looking for the green ones, but everywhere I've looked only has the blue, even if they advertise green ones. Thanks for that link! The next ones I buy will be the green R5's!!
  14. Last month, I had one of the Samsung 25R's, which I bought in December, refuse to work. It charged fine, but would not fire any of my devices. Sitting on the desk for 2-days, and the charge dropped to 2.1V. Meh, these things happen, right? So, yesterday... one of the ones I bought in July (yes, I label them when I buy them) did the exact same thing. Sitting on the desk overnight, and through the day today, and it reads 2.4V The other batteries bought at the same time (5 in December, 4 in July) are still working perfectly. Oh, and it's not a specific device killing them, as they are rotated and every battery sees time in every device through rotation. These were bought from two different vendors, both reputable, and both are authentic (verified the stamps under the wrapper). Anybody else experienced rapid failure or premature failure of their Samsung's?
  15. Hi Karen, and welcome! When you taste flavors in the shops, they are typically in a specific tank, like the Kanger ProTank3-mini or something similar. The type of tank and coil you use does affect the flavor, not to mention the longer you're away from analogs, the more your taste buds will change (for the better), so things will constantly taste different from day to day for several months. I would suggest you try using the same tank and coil resistance the shop uses as their testers. It will make replicate the flavor profile the same. Also, the iStick mini and iStick 20W are ones I would avoid, as they fire much hotter than they specify on the display. Move up to an iStick 30W or 50W for better performance, or switch to a completely different battery all-together. Read the reviews posted here, and you'll get a good idea of what works and what doesn't.
  16. Cant wait to see the review on the GT... I want one... but I have a bad case of the "wants" these days
  17. The local B&M sent me a "customer appreciation" email last night... 10% off gear, free juice... the usual stuff, but I noticed they were also hosting a cloud comp at their juice-bar this weekend... totally open, no restrictions, no rules... The evil person in me wants to go watch to see how many people damage themselves (or equipment), because you know some moron is going to show up with a car-battery and a 0.01 Ohm quad-coil ... the sane person in me says "stay away!" I usually listen to the sane one, because the fewer people that attend these things, maybe they'll stop having them?
  18. Not many of our members here are cloud competition folks... 99.9% are vaping for smoking cessation or hobby, rather than competition. If memory serves, from reading the local brochure from a recent competition (which I did NOT attend... never will actually), there were divisions, and listings of specific, allowable gear, as well as an "open-mechanical" category. If you want to compete, check with the local competition organizers for a recommendation of gear, and you can't go wrong, or you may show up with a sub-par (or disqualifying) rig. Some competitions only allow pure VG, some don't, so be aware of your juice limitations too. Pure VG gives the max vapor production, BTW. Personally, I think the cloud competitions are vaping's biggest enemy, and further damage vaping in the eyes of the pubic. Huge clouds look cool to some, but to most, they look dangerous, menacing, and disgusting... and the media and government LOVE to use photos of cloud-chasers to support their regulation crusade, so they can say "look at this horrible, death-cloud! We must regulate this and stop it... for the CHILDREN!". To each his own... but what you do in public casts light upon more than just you!
  19. You wouldn't by-chance be using an iStick 20W would you? They are notorious for bouncing resistance on their own, not the fault of the tank/coil! EDIT: Whoops, I didn't read you were running at 25W, so that rules out the iStick 20... sorry. What battery are you using??
  20. I've only been vaping 18 months, give or take... and I've noticed when I'm out-and-about, dinner, hiking, shopping, family-functions, etc, I rarely hit my devices... actually I left one in the car the other day for 8-hours and didn't even think about it until I got back to the car! Last night, we went hiking to the peak to watch the sunset, and my vape stayed in the backpack until I got back to the car and started driving home... went without a single hit for 6-7 hours? I do vape more (and heavily) when I'm working, but that was the same for my smoking... stress relief? Habit? I've cut back my Nicotine to 3-6mg for the most part, but still have plenty of 12-18mg laying around... I guess, like everyone else, when vaping becomes more of a hassle than pleasure, I'll start paying my gear forward and maybe hang onto a couple of Aerotanks and a small APV, just in case?
  21. Sorry, Tam, just like any other tank... once you break the seal, the chimney pulls from the top-cap and... mess... When I find I forgot to change the wick, I'll bump the Wattage +2 and keep going... it seems to work, at least with my juices, so you may give that a try before you have to dump the tank into a cup and make a mess.
  22. Glad to hear you're liking that Russian more and more, Tam! I knew you'd enjoy it once you tried one
  23. Like you, I have lots of vape gear, but my daily go-to favorite is my Russian 91% and IPV-mini. There are many others I use and love, but side-by-side on the desk, and the Russian finds it's way into my hand
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines