Earthling789

Welcome! Glad you're here, and good to see you making the change from analogs to vaping!

Comp, I've noticed a lot of my packages from China have been moving across Europe before making it to the states. I think, depending on the size, it is cheaper to follow the mail across EU than to pay for space (and deal with bulk-customs) when shipping by cargo container? I don't have the tracking any more, but I ordered something from Amazon two years ago, and it shipped from Memphis TN (I live in Eastern KY)... went from there to Raleigh NC, then to Richmond VA, central PA, then to Chicago, IL... then back to southern IN, Louisville, Lexington, then to my house (65 miles from Lex)... The package took 4 days (and yes, it was PRIME shipping, lol), and I only live about 6 hours from Memphis ... the carrier was FedEx, too, so I'm sure Wilson was involved

WELCOME! Yes, I love my Cloupor minis, Tam They're small, replaceable battery, and work like a charm. I also recommend the IPV mini (V1 or V2) as well as the Wismec Presa 40W... they have a built-in battery pack, small, and are just as reliable and rugged as some of the much higher priced devices! Your EVOD's are 3.7V only, so your next step (logically, as everyone has stated above) is to move to variable wattage / variable voltage devices to power your tanks. The next step is to try different tanks and coil resistance / coil configurations to find what is best for YOU! Enjoy those EVODs... I still have my original EVOD, bought about 18 months ago, and still use it some today! Mechanical Mods are fun, but limited to the power supplied by the battery, which gets lower and lower with each firing... which is why we recommend VV/VW mods for more control and consistency with every vape!

Ever look at the warning label on a hair-dryer? "Do not use while sleeping"... Seriously, it's on there.... I agree on child-proof caps, warning notice to "keep away from children or pets"... "contains nicotine"... but some of the things the FDA are phishing for is insanity, and obviously a ploy to garner support for them to become the "label police" they want to be. Personally, the industry should self-govern, and the government should NOT have a hand in the packaging or label specifications... it only gives them a foot in the door to be able to eventual control of the industry!

I've flown several times with my gear, and only once was I given any crap about it... in Lexington KY... the absolute worst TSA checkpoint I've ever been through... Now, I just have my batteries in plastic boxes in my carry-on, and my eGo-styles in my pen-holders of my backpack The reason they don't want them in checked luggage is because the luggage compartment is NOT pressurized... Yet, I have checked luggage with laptops, tablets, and cell-phones before, without any issue... go figure...

Nicotine is absorbed faster as heat increases. This has been proven by researchers many years ago when testing the patch... Yes, this has been discussed in several threads, but always warrants re-stating You are not technically increasing your intake by sub-ohming, but your body processes the Nicotine faster when sub-ohming, which is why you should reduce the Nicotine levels in your juice. You get more volume and it is absorbed faster (hotter), so it takes less to do the same job, so to speak... Think of it like shot-gunning a beer, or taking shots of Bourbon, rather than sipping...

If you're use to 6mg at 1.5 Ohms, you may want to dial on down to 1.5 or 2mg You'd be amazed how much a difference it will make to drop your nicotine levels by 50-90% when you sub-ohm (depending on how low you go). Since your dropping your Ohms by 66%, and increasing your heat (dramatically), you'll probably find that 3mg is still too much, since it is only half what you were using at 1.5 Ohms?

I'd say the 70% PG, and the Nicotine level is what did you in... When you go below 1.0 Ohms, you have to really dial back your Nicotine, and up your VG content to 50% or higher. I regularly use 12mg in my 1.5 Ohm tanks, but when I sub-ohm, even to 0.5, I drop my Nicotine to 3mg to cut back on the burn and the buzz... Nicotine is absorbed faster as heat increases Also, you're not getting any "real" cloud because of the PG content. VG is the cloud producer, and sub-ohm coils really prefer 50/50 to 30/70 mixes so you don't fry your throat...

250ml of 10% Nicotine, a few flavorings, and a couple of beakers from Wizard Labs A liter each of food-grade PG and VG (Amazon) (still waiting on my Presa APV's from Gear Best)

Today I learned that we're all prone to "rookie mistakes"... I rebuilt my Russian 91% in the wee hours this morning, but I built the coil to 1.8 Ohms instead of the 1.2 Ohms I had been using, to give me a cooler vape... but I didn't lower the Wattage on my IPV-mini to account for the higher resistance... instantly fried my organic cotton (with a full tank of juice).... not once, but TWICE! Yes, I drained and re-wicked it, refilled, and toasted it a second time! Eventually, I realized that higher Wattage was the cause of the problem, not just poor wicking technique at 2am, lol

Welcome to VT... Please post a picture of the message displayed in the window... it sounds like dropping it may have kicked a wire off the internal circuit board. Generally when they rotate between the colors, pause, and repeat the sequence, that means the board is not grounded (shorting out) or is damaged.

The mechanicals have their place, and I still use mine from time to time... as for hard-hitting, that is more the atomizer (RDA) than the mod, honestly. The mod can only push the Voltage that the battery can provide, which is a maximum of 4.2V (usually 3.8-4.1V). If you want a mod that can reach higher Voltages (higher wattages), a good, regulated box-mod is the way to go. The limitations on box mods is the low-end cut-off restriction for resistance. Most regulated mods won't fire below 0.1 ohms, so if you want to fire a coil lower than that, you have to buy a really good regulated mod, or stick with a mechanical. As for the choices you've listed, both are good, but I lean more towards the Vanilla

Isn't that the way it always is? I just hope they reached their viewing numbers to have it fill the gap this spring after The Walking Dead season finale! I think it's been a great show (so far), and love to see it fill the seasonal gap to keep the "Dead" running year-round!

^^ This ^^ I have several of the Cloupor Minis, and they are designed to be used with Kanthal-wire coils, and can only run down to 0.45 Ohm. They are not TC (temp control) However, the Cloupor mini-plus (50W) and Clourpor Mini GT (80W) ARE Temp-control mods, and can fire coils down to 0.1 Ohms (for both), so neither of these will fire a 0.03 Ohm Ni or Ti coil

It would bug the crap out of me too, Tug! I had this same thing on my iStick 50W... it's like the threading did not go deep enough into the box to allow some tanks to thread all the way down? Just another half-turn would have been enough...

Pending patents are not searchable by the public... for this, you need a patent clerk or patent lawyer to search those records. No, they don't make it easy, but we are talking about protected intellectual property

OMFG! Actual pay-out was under $2M, and I'm sure her lawyer will get half or more... but still... (shakes head at our liberal court and sue-happy America) The saddest part about this whole article is that the Chinese manufacturer is completely insulated from this lawsuit and will continue their daily routine of making inferior products; meanwhile the wholesaler, and retailer are punished for selling a product... not making it... which IMO is insanity! Yes, I agree "some" product regulation/testing/inspection/certification should occur, but I'm pretty sure the vast majority of people on this planet will agree (and have full knowledge) that Chinese made products are highly suspect on quality, reliability, and longevity!! When a toaster sets fire to a kitchen, it's probably one made in China and NOT UL-certified!! Furthermore, it's the battery that popped... from a faulty charger or inferior battery-cell... DUH, you're dealing with batteries, and "we" all know battery safety and using high-end, quality batteries is paramount to success and safety! Let me also guess... this lady had no idea the coffee she just bought was HOT, too??

This is why Patent Lawyers exist... to perform these searches... Or, you can do it yourself... patents are public domain info, and free to search, but even if you don't find an existing one which covers your idea, a Patent Lawyer would be necessary when you file for a patent, so they can verify your idea does not infringe on an existing or pending patent. I have two patents (in my name, but corporate property), and both required years to file, thousands and thousands of dollars, and a team of corporate lawyers to solidify!

For the price, I'd recommend the Sub-box Mini kit from Kanger, and using Samsung 25R batteries (get at least two, and a good charger from Nitecore), and don't forget to buy extra coils when you buy the kit.... Flavor, vapor, and durability are all subjective, and will depend on the juice you use, PG/VG ratio, and how well you take care of your equipment. But I think you'd be very happy with the Sub-tank mini and Sub-box mini combo kit... they run ~ $60 US (not sure about EU pricing).

Still hazy here, but enough to gather the family to watch the eclipse begin and peak. It should be beginning to open back up in the next half hour? I took some pictures of the reddish-gold corona through the telescope, but dang haze/clouds aren't allowing me to get good ones

Good info to marry the batteries, Jason... I, too, label my rechargeable batteries with the date of purchase and a "pair" identifier... even my AA and AAA rechargeables It makes the much easier to keep together, and when one goes bad, I divorce them and use the singles (18650's) in a IPV mini, mech-mod, flashlight, or other single battery device. For AA/AAA, I divorce them and recycle both if they are over a year old... otherwise, I'll re-marry them with another divorced battery and try again.

I'm really enjoying the story, and the evolution of the "virus"... from localized to global, and how people are dealing with it.

When I buy a mod, they are usually black or silver... whichever is cheaper... or if they are the same price, I'll get the one I'm in the mood for. They are investments, but they cost the same to make, so they should never be different prices just because of the color (unless one is cheaper or on-sale due to overstock)! I bought one of my older mods in blue, only because it was $3 cheaper than the other colors, and one of my IPV's is gold... because it was $10 cheaper than black/silver (I guess nobody liked the gold ones?). You can always wrap them or buy a silicone skin (for many of them)... If color is that important, shop around for the best price, but remember that most all of these mods will fade, chip, or scratch the finish/paint... eventually, so what is pretty today, will begin to look "used" tomorrow. One of my black IPV's looks grey instead of black, and with all the scratches and fading, it looks like it has been laying in a ditch for a few months, lol... but it still works like new, and that is all that matters to me!

I recommend the Spinner, or any stick-style (eGo) battery over 1000mAh capacity, rather than the smaller BeKuali kit's batteries. Yes, they work well, and are from a reputable company, but they are short capacity, so they'll only last half-a-day to a day at most before needing to be charged. Another couple of good suggestions for batteries are the iStick 30W, Wismec Presa 40W, and the MVP-series batteries from Innokin... I cannot recommend the MVP high enough, and I recently received a Presa as a prize, and liked it so much that I bought two more! All of these will work with 510 connection tanks, and have adapters to allow you to use the eGo threaded tanks such as the KPT3-minis (which I also highly recommend).

Welcome! Your info is pretty vague as to your set-up and equipment, so if you want specifics, you'll need to tell us the type of battery, tank, and resistance of your coil. As for Nicotine... if you want to "casually" vape, you'll want to go with a VERY high Nicotine level... I would suggest 24-36mg if you only intend to vape it 5-7 min every hour... and honestly that will NOT work for cessation, IMO. Your best chance of success will be to use a Nicotine level from 18-36mg, flavor you like, and vape on it whenever you feel the urge to smoke. 36mg levels of Nicotine should not affect your heart-rate, especially if you're on a Beta-blocker like Coreg. Several members here regularly vape 24mg all day long (and have for years), and have no ill effects. It's roughly the equivalent Nicotine from a pack-a-day of full-flavor, unfiltered analogs. Give us some more info, and we'll be able to give more answers