-
Posts
3,403 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
191
Everything posted by Earthling789
-
I hate when doctors and dentists tell you how bad something is for you... when in truth, there have NOT been any significant studies on vaping and tooth health!! My dentist couldn't be happier that I stated vaping... In the past 18-months, I've had check-ups as good as when I was in my early teens (before I found chocolate, cola, and smoking). Tobacco stains teeth, as well as does damage to gums and tooth enamel. Vaping? Well, PG is a main component in mouthwash and toothpaste (as well as the majority of hygiene and medicinal products you use daily)... VG is a sweetener approved by the American Diabetes Association, as well as the American Dental Association because VG is less harmful to tooth enamel and gums (and does not affect blood-sugar levels in diabetics)... so... any dentist that tells you vaping is "bad on teeth" is fear-mongering at worst, or just horribly misinformed at best. An "educated professional" should never pass opinion or hear-say as fact...
-
It should, yes... but I find flavor is better with coils in the 1.0-1.8 range. Then again, I prefer the flavor over a cloud any day of the week, lol
-
Cany, I get great "cloud" running my Triton @ 1.8 Ohms or my Nautilus @ 1.6 Ohms, but I can get a room-filling fog from my Magma @ 0.8 Ohms... the difference (as Tam said) is the amount of VG. In my tanks, I run 50/50 and 40/60 juices, but in the dripper, I run max VG (~ 85%). But, the short answer to your question is "yes" you can drip on the iStick 50W...
-
Cleaning up just a few gallons of water is an inconvenience... but at least you stopped it before you had to rip out carpet, drywall, tile, etc. We had a hot water heater burst in the middle of the night, a few years ago, which dumped hundreds of gallons of water into two bedrooms, closets, laundry room, bathroom, and hallway. It was days cleaning up the initial mess, and another 2-months drying out the wood, replacing carpet, drywall, insulation, heating-ducts, etc.
-
The total volume of the V2 (two slots) is greater than the volume of the V1, so the V2 should allow for greater airflow. I only have the V2 mini, but a V1 Nano, and same coil, same juice, the V2 is like breathing... almost zero restriction, as compared to the V1 Nano, which has some restriction (and an airy-whistle)... sorry, but that's the best comparison I can make between the V1 and V2 bases
-
A lot of the vanilla flavors I've found (commercial vanilla) are combinations of the following (some or all of them): VanillaFrench VanillaBavarian CreamVanilla CustardAnd, some also include a pastry flavor like cake or doughnut Sadly, you'll have to do some trial-and-error mixing to find the ingredients and ratios, so work in small batches of 5ml until you figure out the ratios and ingredients
- 2 replies
-
- reverb
- dubtronica
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
When you go down to sub-ohm, the vape is warmer, and IMO, harsh. Nicotine is absorbed faster as it gets hotter, so you MUST lower your nicotine by 50-75% when you drop to the lower Ohm coils. For you to move from 1.5 to 0.5, that's a 67% drop, so I'd lower nicotine by at least that much, if not 75% (go to 0-Nic or cut your juice to 1.5 Nicotine)!! You'll also want to change your juice ratio to higher VG content... 50/50 mixes are a good option, and the Kanger coils can handle 30/70 PG/VG without much problems or dry hits. The only way you'll know if you like sub-ohm is to try it, but be aware of the Nicotine and VG requirements, as well as the fact that sub-ohming burn juice faster, hotter, and will deplete your battery faster, too.
-
Yes, I'm changing my tactics, lol... I got the other two from Gearbest for $27 each, but the price has gone up slightly
-
Tam, the fire button is great, and very smooth... After I got the first one from GearBest's give-away, I bought two more of the standard 40W, and we're really loving them. Jason, they also have the 40W-TC version already out, so if you don't want a 75W version (or need one), the 40W-TC may be just what you need? But, I admit, I like the look of the 75W adjustment buttons, screen, and the fact it takes an 18650 but the 2600mAh built-in battery of the 40W versions is really nice too.
-
Frustrated (wife even more frustrated)
Earthling789 replied to BryanB423's topic in New Vapers Forum
Whatever Nicotine level keeps you from smoking is what you should be using, lol... Nicotine is not the enemy, nor is it a bad thing... To iron out what you need, or what direction you should go... it would help to know what tank you've been using, and what coil resistance you've been using. If you're unsure, the resistance is marked on the side of the coil, usually... or you can take a few pictures and post them up... we can usually determine from that, but not always... -
Frustrated (wife even more frustrated)
Earthling789 replied to BryanB423's topic in New Vapers Forum
Jason nailed the batteries and chargers above... I can't say enough good things about the Samsung 25R and LG HE2 batteries... and the NiteCore i4 charger (simple, inexpensive, and works) As for tanks... it's going to be a matter of preference for YOU. If you want to stay in the 1.2-2.4 Ohm range of coils, the Kanger ProTank2 (KPT2) is about as bullet-proof as they come. The coils are cheap, and if you break the Pyrex tank, you can replace it for ~ $2.50. The Kanger AeroTank V2 has an updated air-flow base, and the "kit" also includes an all Stainless Steel tank section which makes the entire tank break-proof. That same tank section can also be purchased separately and will fit the KPT2, KPT3, and the AeroTanks. Another popular tank is the Nautilus and Nautilus mini... both are fragile (and expensive compared to Kanger tanks), but you can upgrade to the hollow-cage tanks, which make them more durable. If you're looking for sub-ohm tanks, you'll be stuck with all of them having some form of Pyrex or plastic tank sections, and there are dozens and dozens of options out there for those, but I will recommend the Kanger Sub-tank mini as a fantastic all-around tank... which can operate sub-ohm, plus-ohm, and rebuildable (RBA), as well as standard KPT3/Aerotank dual-coils fitting it too. Aspire Atlantis and Triton are similar, so you may want to see what you like and read the reviews on here for many of the different tanks. Oh, and don't forget the Aspire Anyvape Davide tanks... look like the KPT2 tanks, also can use the Kanger air-flow bases, and they use either the Aspire or Kanger ProTank coils which makes them very versatile as well as inexpensive options. -
Frustrated (wife even more frustrated)
Earthling789 replied to BryanB423's topic in New Vapers Forum
The Invader is great for durability... but if you'll notice they remove the tank for all the tests, as the tank would not survive (most likely), but using an all SS tank would reduce breakage and the 510 connection would be the true weak-point. I agree it would be a winner for use on the construction site -
Frustrated (wife even more frustrated)
Earthling789 replied to BryanB423's topic in New Vapers Forum
Hi, Brian... welcome to VT! I understand your frustrations... and to me, the most rugged mod (an older style, but works great) is the Innokin VTR. It uses 18650 batteries (one), and only goes to 15 Watts, but the tank is protected to the side of the mod, rather than mounted to the top. If you use a Kanger tank (with stainless steel tube/tank section, rather than the pyrex glass, like the Aerotank V2) or a Nautilus mini (with SS hollowed tube sleeve), they're pretty much bullet-proof! Some of the other good ones are the all-in-one units from Joye Tech and others (can't remember their names right off), but they have the battery and tank built into one device, which makes them more rugged unless you drop them from huge heights or run over them with a truck, lol. Keeping your tank protected is a key when you work construction, and things like an eGo (stick style) are prone to damage even if they never leave the house. Other options are simply using a rugged tank or protected tank like those mentioned above, and a GOOD battery/mod... Innokin MVP series are rugged (but mount the tank on the top). The Wismec Presa is pretty rugged too, and small-ish, but has long life and goes to 40W. Cloupor minis are small and dependable, as well as capable of taking a beating. As long as the tank threading (510 connector) is SS or quality brass, you shouldn't have to worry about breaking the connection if you drop it or have it in your pocket during work. Others will chime in shortly with their suggestions, but I have friends that are linemen and work construction, and I've recommended the VTR to them all, and they love it!! -
Are those your only 3 choices? If not, let me also suggest the Cloupor Mini (30W), mini-plus (50W TC), and GT (80W TC). The 30W mini is identical to the Sigelei in size/function and runs less than $30. The 50W right now at 101Vape.com is $29 with coupon code Vapetober! Another good built-in-battery mod is the Wismec Presa... standard 40W version and the 40W TC version run from $27-49 depending on where you buy and which version. They're as well made as an Innokin MVP, too. I've not tried the Koopor yet, but it's getting good reviews, and is also a sub-$40 mod as well... (also uses 18650's). To me, charging batteries separately and keeping them handy for switch-out is what makes ultimate convenience... you're never without power, and never have to worry about finding your cord or being tethered to the cable while it charges! Yes, there's the added expense of batteries and charger, but $25 extra will buy a pair of quality batteries (from Jason's list above) and a good NiteCore charger
-
Anyone use Roku with Sling Here?
Earthling789 replied to Compenstine's topic in The Vape Lounge - Off Topic Chat
13 months a year is simple when they pull the payment from your account every 4 weeks... 4 x 13 = 52 They claimed they were pulling it on the 18th of the month every month, but tracking the payments, they were pulling it every 4th week, not on the 18th -
Anyone use Roku with Sling Here?
Earthling789 replied to Compenstine's topic in The Vape Lounge - Off Topic Chat
I had DirectTV for 10 years or more... and was paying < $90/month for everything, including all movie channels... then they started the "frog in slowly warming water"... $95, $110, $125, $135, etc. until I was paying more than double for what I was getting just a few years earlier... the big whammy was when I reviewed my bank statements and realized I was paying them for 13 months of service per year... for the past 2 years!!! That was the day I decided to cut my cable/cords and move to streaming and downloading I still have to have a high-speed Internet connection for work... The cable company is the only game in town to provide that, and I get a few hundred channels included with my Internet package, but we rarely watch live TV... Streaming and downloading are our preferences because we hate commercials, and we'll never go back to paying for Satellite or Cable programming again!! -
Anyone use Roku with Sling Here?
Earthling789 replied to Compenstine's topic in The Vape Lounge - Off Topic Chat
I have the Roku 3 and two Roku sticks... the sticks run off the MHL ports on my bedroom TVs, so you don't need USB hookups or external power... and they also are hidden completely behind the TV, so that is really nice! The Roku 3 is in the LR, and has almost completely eliminated our over-use of the Xbox to watch downloaded content from my media server... and I do appreciate the fact that the remote has a headphone hookup, so I can watch TV in the middle of the night without disturbing others... although it does eat batteries (yay for rechargeables!) I haven't use Sling, but have thought about adding it... we do use Hulu +, Netflix, Amazon Prime, and Crackle... as well as many of the free channels without issues. I've not paid for Satellite since 2007, and the only cable channels we have/use are the ones that come included with our Internet service, but I hate commercials (BIG TIME), so we watch 99.9% of things via streaming or download! -
What kind of mod? Your question is kinda like asking "where can I buy a vehicle?"... without telling us what kind of car/truck/motorcycle/boat/airplane you're looking for...
-
If you lifted the center-pin, and it still will not charge, you either have a defective charger, or your X6 is dead. Do you have another charger to try? How old is it? It may still be under warranty, or at least the 30-day exchange period from where you purchased it? These things happen, even to a newly purchased product... sometimes you just get a dud... This is why we constantly preach about back-ups and back-ups for your back-ups on this forum... I know you're just starting out, but having at least 2 batteries is a necessity, because they are not fool-proof, and will fail when you least expect it... BTW, you only have to post your question once... and I noticed you posted the same question to Vaping Underground, and received the same answer... so, that should tell you what you need, rather than what you want to hear... there is no magic to fix it... if it's dead, it's dead...
-
You can't buy 100% Nicotine without a commercial license... I think the highest concentrations you can buy for personal use is 10% (100mg/ml), which can be purchased in 100% VG base, or PG base, or a mixture of the two. Comp is giving good advice about buying your Nicotine in a 100% VG base, so it will make it much easier to mix and calculate your end result of PG/VG ratios of your juices.
-
Yes, you can tighten posts and/or screws if they are loose. Yes, it is possible to over-tighten and squeeze the wire out from under the screw-head, or even crush it to the point it snaps the wire. Recommendations? Well, that is personal preference, really... I don't like anything below 0.8 Ohms (too hot for me), but that is part of the fun of trying something new to see what you like best. Yes, there is a correlation between resistance and heat and Power (Watts). Low resistance heats faster, high resistance heats slower (and cools slower, too). Low resistance usually will be associated with higher power (fast heat, small surface area, fast cool-down), but this is not always the case. Higher resistance means more surface-area, and less power is required to provide heat over the larger area, and the larger area retains heat longer. Because of this, overpowering a high resistance coil usually means very hot vape, burnt wicks, and a hot RTA/RDA... if using an RTA, the juice in the tank will "cook" and ruin the flavor over time of repeated heating.
-
Yep, loose screw/post, broken wire, or something is shorting-out. I've done the same thing before... after wicking, I've noticed the wire wasn't secure under the screw, so wicking pulled it just enough to knock it loose
-
My son made some beef stew last weekend, and it was incredible... But I'm in the mood for chili too, and a good potato soup sounds great
-
And all the drip-tips too, Tam I've saved a ton of money, and spent a good sum on gear and DIY (and gifted several hundred dollars of gear to others), but in the grand scheme of things I've spent about 1/3-1/2 of my savings on vaping, and the rest has gone to a little better living in the form of things for the house, non-vaping hobby-gear, the occasional splurge on fine-wine or gifts for my sweetie... Today, I vape for pennies a day, since I've not bought much in the form of "new gear" for myself this year... although I've spent a few bucks to upgrade my SO's gear (moving her from spinners and eGos, and into better tanks), and DIY is saving both of us big bucks in juices! If I had all that money in one lump-sum, I'd probably use it to put a down-payment on a decent used truck/SUV, or use it to re-furnish my LR and kitchen, with a new TV as an upgrade
-
PH = Porter House I had pork tenderloin with mashed potatoes, green beans, and fresh corn on the cob... nothing special, but there's nothing left but dirty dishes