Earthling789

That's odd... I see Tam's in the post above you, and I can see my own... Here is a sample (screenshot) of Tam's:

I'll second the backups and backups for the backups... Like Tam, I've left the house with more than I needed, only to find out that 4 batteries, a dead cell-phone, broken tank, and a bad coil later... I was coasting into the house with my last battery flashing red and a smidge of juice left in my one working tank... and I was only gone from the house for 10 hours!!

With a fully charged battery (4.2V max), you would have the following, based on the coil resistances you listed: 2.1 Ohm = 8.4W at 2.0A 2.0 Ohm = 8.8W at 2.1A 1.5 Ohm = 11.8W at 2.8A As you can see, even a "cheap" battery can handle these Amp ratings (although I'd still not recommend using a "cheap" battery, period), and your 35A Efest batteries won't break a sweat with those loads. To break 10A at 4.2V, you'd need to have a coil resistance built down to 0.4, and that would only be 10.5A and 44.1W

Today's mail brought forth bountiful gifts of coils... 1.8 Ohm Triton coils, 1.6 Ohm Nautilus BVC, and Subtank 1.2 Ohm... two boxes of each

You're welcome!

Well... you're new to vaping, but what are you trying to achieve with an RDA? Are you trying to quit smoking, or are you just joining the fad of cloud-chasing. I'm not a cloud-chaser, nor do I condone it in public places, but in the privacy of your own home... have at it For flavor, you want to go with a higher resistance... 0.8 up to 2.0 Ohms. For clouds... you an hit that easily with anything below 1.2 Ohms. Personally, I prefer 28ga wire, but for larger coils (with low resistance), you may want to move to 24ga or 26ga, which are larger wire, but lower resistance. I would suggest reading many of the threads on coil building and use a good online calculator like Steam-Engine to determine the number of wraps, based on the wire you're using and the mandrel you're using to wrap on.

Welcome to VT Do you mean a Tugboat RDA? For cotton, Japanese Organic Cotton has a very good following around here... brand/style is your preference. As for wire gauge... it depends on what resistance you're trying to achieve and the type of coil you're planning to use. I think you'll need to be more specific.

Yep, your settings are ON or OFF, lol... the only true settings are in the resistance of your coil-builds, and if you go below 1.0 Ohms, you should be using a really really good battery. Amp-ratings of your battery are very important, as well as an Ohm-meter, when working with a mechanical mod.

Those that blow themselves up are usually using inferior batteries, defective mechanicals, or running resistances (Ohms) far below the ratings of their battery. These are things the media leave out... they just play the blame-game on those evil e-cigs... [shakes head] Mechanicals are safe, as long as you know what you are doing and use good equipment, the right way... that being said, even a regulated mod can have issues... poor chipsets, batteries, or just stupidity by the operator... This is why we always preach about battery safety and knowing what your device can and will do. Don't let the media scare you... the media no longer reports the news or public-services... they are interested in ratings and awards, agenda pushing, and fear-mongering...

IMO, I like the Triton 2... with a 1.8 Ohm coil, it is very close to the function/flavor of a Nautilus, with more airflow options. With the Trition, you can sub-ohm with different coils, and the available RBA deck lets you build coils to suit your needs and style. Which clearomizer do you have, which you've not used? It's always a good idea to have a good backup, and you may find if you try it, you might like it? It might end up being a daily-driver for you? I've no opinion on the Pegasus... but maybe someone else can chime in with the pros/cons on it.

Based on what you posted, a can of snuff/dip is basically equivalent to a pack of cigarettes (full-flavor, unfiltered)... or two packs of filtered "lights". I would suggest simple to get you started... A Kanger ProTank 2, Kanger Aerotank V2, Nautilus, Nautilus Mini, or AnyVape Davide. Coils are cheap for these, and they WORK! As for a battery device... simple is best, so I would suggest an iStick 50W, not for the power, but for the longevity of the battery. The Wismec Presa 40W (not the TC model) is also tops on my list... Next would be an MVP-series battery. As for a stick-style, you cannot beat the iTaste CLK, Vision Spinner V1, or a similar Variable-voltage device from Kanger or Smok. Based on your daily nicotine from dipping, I would suggest you start with one of the tanks above, a coil in the 1.5-1.8 Ohm resistance range, and probably an 18mg nicotine level. You can go higher or lower, based on your needs, but that will be a good starting point. Find a flavor you like, and vape as often as you feel the need

Murphy's Law at it's finest Glad you got it fixed, and the problem was just a $1 base, and not a more expensive iStick issue!

B, the iStick 50W has SS threads, so stripping them out should be dang hard to do. Sounds like you nailed the issue... it seems to be the threading on your tank is the problem. Are you using the Davide tanks with the iStick? I don't think they are solid SS... they may be plated brass? I could be wrong, but I know the few I use seem to be very soft threading, compared to the all steel Air-flow bases I use on my Kanger tanks.

Lazy is good I have two of the Nitecore i4 chargers and stack up batteries as they drain... once I have enough to fill both chargers (usually every 5-6 days), I plug them in and charge while I'm working... so I can watch them. I don't like to charge anything if I can't watch it.... Like you, I have several (20 I use for vaping, and another 8 for my flashlights), so I don't have to worry about having several spares charged and ready, at any given time... And, at least the IPV-mini and Cloupor Mini's have USB charging ports, so I can charge them in the mod if an emergency should arise My SO uses the Wismec Presa and V1 Spinners, and she always seems to have one on the charger (for me to watch, lol). Like you, Tam, she prefers those with built-in batteries so she carry two or more around with her for daily use and work. At least I have her carrying backups for her backups, lol. Funny story about backups... she called me at midnight recently, to bring her a spare battery because she had only taken one Wismec and her Nautilus. I took her another Wismec, Nautilus, spare coil, 10ml bottle of her ADV, and a Spinner topped with a KPT3-mini and fresh coil. She said around 3am, the coil died in her Nautilus, and she was sooo happy that I had made her over-prepared

Wow... that sucker is on there, lol Sounds like the Pyrex and Silicone have "bonded"... sticking it in the freezer may stiffen the silicone and help to break it loose, but heat won't do any good (actually will make it worse).

I had to use that trick to break apart the base (firing button) of my Copper Penny Are you talking about the base from the tank, or the coil from the base? For the base from the tank section, I've found those silicone grippers that you use to open stuck jars work very well to hold the glass section while you twist off the base. As for the coil from the base... I've been known to use pliers

Tam is spot-on with the freezer trick, but I'll add this... Put the whole thing in the freezer for 15 min, and put a damp towel in the microwave for about 20 sec to really heat it up (just before you take the eGo out of the freezer). Hold the cold battery in one hand, and wrap the warm towel over the tank... let it set for about 30 seconds to warm the tank portion... then TWIST... it should come right off that way.

Welcome to VT! Sounds like you're off and running! When we say backups, we typically mean backup tanks, coils, batteries, devices, etc. Nothing worse than being at work or on the road and having a battery go dead or a tank crack (from dropping it), or a coil go bad... The Subvod you have is nice... not my cup-o-tea since I vape tank-cracking juices and the Subvod has a plastic tank. If you like the Subvod, you'll really like the Subtank Nano and/or Subtank Mini kits... you'll get tank and APV (battery device) at the same time, and you'll have instant backups... like FXRich said, you'll also have multiple tanks that use the SAME coils, so that will save you $$, too. I have a ton of tanks and regularly vape only about 4 styles, and the Subtank mini is one of my go-to tanks daily.

I've been using 25R (and the new 25R5, green wrapped), as well as the LG HG2 and HE2 for the past few months, and can tell little difference in the performance... so for the price, the 25R is the best bang for the buck

First red-flag... HARVARD... Second red-flag... Acronyms associated with Big-pharma/Big-tobacco/Big-government I trust no studies that are subsidized by tax-dollars or pharma/tobacco $$, especially those performed by liberal lap-dog universities...

Hello Jessie, and welcome to VT! Popular? Why just the selection between those two? To me, neither are overly appealing, but the choice you make will be based on price, functions, size/feel, button-placement, and features (floating/adjustable pin, materials, color, etc.). You'll find that many of us here may agree that a particular device may suit the needs of the masses, but we also agree there is no "popular" or "must-have" device that everyone should own. What you should use, is based on your preferences and needs... not necessarily what is popular Also, I'll add... the battery you use in the device is very important... safety first! There are lots of recent threads with the pros and cons of different batteries and suggestions for some of the current, best-on-the-market 18650's

I see nobody has answered this for you, so I'll give it a whirl and ask you some questions... The Tugboat is an RDA, not a box-mod... a box-mod is the device that provides power to the device which holds your coil/cotton/juice (RDA/RBA/RTA/Tank/Atomizer/Cartomizer/Clearomizer) Typically, you would use Kanthal, but can use Ni200 or Titanium wire if you're using a temp-control device Number of wraps and diameter of coil (ID) will depend on the resistance you want to achieve (watch lots of youtube videos and read threads on this forum) Cotton is your personal preference... Japanese cotton is superior, but some still like silica, rayon, etc Now for the questions... WHY are you vaping? (to quit smoking, hobby, to be one of the cool-kids?) If you are vaping to quit smoking, how long were you a smoker? How many packs-per-day? You mentioned "Awesome vapor production"... are you wanting to cloud-chase? What type of device do you have to provide power? (box-mod, mechanical, self-contained or does it use 18650 batteries?) If you are using 18650 batteries, what brand/model are you using? And, the #1 question... have you ever tried vaping? There is lots of helpful people here, and we're happy to answer more specific questions, but the reason this question has sat for 3 days without an answer is because it is vague, and it appears you are just another non-smoking noob that wants to get into cloud-chasing or competitions, and that is not what we do here... we educate and inform, and our primary goal is to help you stop smoking... not help you fog up rooms and annoy others with massive clouds, which only serve to further cast dim lights on the benefits of vaping (compared to smoking) and cloud-chasing further aids the anti-vaping and regulation desiring politicians. If you want to cloud-up your own home... go for it... just please be aware of others and don't do it in public places!

I gotta chime in here... and agree with everyone else... I've said it before, and I'll say it again... just because your device will do 200W, you don't have to run it that high to get a good vape... just like you don't have to pull out of your driveway @ 120mph (foot to the floor) just because your car's speedo says you can go that fast! You can get a pleasurable drive through the countryside at 35mph, even in a Ferrari I've built coils sub 0.2 Ohms, and even those tasted burnt over 50W, and the vape AND RDA was HOT HOT HOT with just a few hits... vapor was no better than I get with a 1.2 Ohm coil-build on my Subtank Mini... and the mini is a lot more flavorful vape because it's not scorching my throat, burning my lungs, and boiling my pancreas

Versatile tanks... Kanger Subtank mini or plus... or the Aspire Triton2. The ST+ has larger capacity than the mini, and both can use RBA deck or pre-built coils which are available in Kanthal, Ni200, and Ti. The Triton is top-fill, moderate capacity and has an available RBA (sold separately). Both are excellent daily-use tanks and can handle sub-ohm vaping or 'standard' vaping resistances (over 1.2 Ohm). If you are planning to vape 0.8 Ohms or lower, I would recommend the Subtank over the Triton2...

That's a huge list, lol... and yes, the Triton/Triton2 do not use top-threads, which is why I always wondered why they were there...